[carkivey3]

I have a 04 yzf-r1. a couple of years ago the flywheel generator flew apart as it was original. replaced it with the new style. noticed some damage to the stator but not too bad I thought. it worked fine. fast forward to now and it is not charging. without checking anything I knew the stator was the most likely culprit. I have installed a new one and still not charging. battery @12.8 volts before starting and only 11.5 running with no change with acceleration. I unplugged connection on rectifier that goes to battery. measured voltage across plug terminals and it was 12.8 same as battery so wiring is ok. started bike and measured 14.8-15.1 volts out of rectifier at idle while unplugged
why don't I have 14.8volts at battery after I start it? could it be the regulator in the rectifier is thinking the battery voltage is too high and reducing the output?

 

[andrewstclair]

well if you already replaced the stator then it probably is the reg/rec by default. it may be putting out volts but not amps to when it is connected to the battery its draining that voltage away. download the service manual from the sticky at the top of the mechanical help section and it has a charging system testing procedure in it that will get to the bottom of it.

 

[carkivey3]

found the section with service manual. I am having a problem getting it to open. will need help from someone a little more puter savvy than I. I did install a new rectifier with same results. the rectifier is putting out 14 volts unplugged and reading the rectifier terminals. took it a few steps further. I put my meters negative lead on battery neg terminal. I then put my positive lead to one of the unplugged terminals on rectifier and it read +8 volts. I then moved that positive lead to the other terminal on rectifier and it read -6 volts between it and my battery neg terminal. blew my mind. now I am thinking maybe the 2 terminal on rectifier are not actually the pos and neg terminals that go straight to battery. maybe it uses the housing for a ground and one might be output terminal and one feedback terminal. if you have any info I would like to hear it. for now I will have to admit my wife is more computer literate and see if she can open manual

 

[carkivey3]

figured out how to open service manual w/o the wife. the charging troubleshooting it gives goes as far as replace rectifier then they assume nothing else could be wrong. there is an electrical diagram. I wish I could copy n paste on here but cant figure how. it shows one red wire leaving rectifier going thru main fuse to battery. it shows another wire out the side of rectifier to ground. is this the case being grounded to the frame? is this wire the other wire on the plug and it goes to ground? I have not mentioned it yet but with a fully charged battery the bike runs fine till battery voltage drops too low. going back to ohm out the second wire to frame then neg battery terminal and see what I get

 

[tory ii]

you have to have a good battery.

 

[Sharksawyer]

Here's an old check from martinc:

1) Charge the battery overnight (7~12 hours), not to exceed 24 hours. You may exceed 24 hours if you are using a smart charger.

2) Disconnect charger and allow battery to stand for 30 minutes. Check the battery voltage with a digital voltmeter. The voltage should be around 13.3~13.5. If the voltage is less than 12.5, replace the battery.

3) Install known good battery into bike and start engine. After warm-up, bring engine speed up to 5000 rpm and measure the battery voltage at the same time. The voltage should be about 14~14.5 volts. If the voltage is greater than 15, the problem is most likely the rectifier/regulator. If the voltage is less than 13.5, then it's either the alternator (stator coil) or the rectifier/regulator, or possibly even both.

3a) SIDE NOTE: A problem that seems to occur with the R1 rather frequently is the 3-terminal stator coil connection fails and the resultant heat from the I*R drop melts the connector. In addition, the red-wire contact on the rectifier/regulator connector also has a history of oxidation/corrosion. Be sure to check these!

4) To check the stator coil (alternator), measure the coil(s) resistance at the 3-terminal connector with an ohmmeter. The resistance reading between each coil (three total), should be 0.14~0.18 ohms @ 20C (68F). If not, replace the stator coil. Be sure to negate (subtract) lead resistance from your readings. To do this, touch the meter leads together and note the value of the resistance reading; subtract this value from your stator coil readings.

NOTE: Attempting to read around 0.5 ohms on an analog meter is difficult enough on the X1 scale, much less the X10.

I would like to add that when you check your stator resistance, also check each leg to ground to make sure none of the legs is grounded. You can also check the AC Voltage coming out of your stator. Unplug your stator and measure between legs 1 and 2. Then check 1 and 3 and then 2 and 3. You should have about 20 Volts at idle and around 70 Volts at 5k rpm. Also, the black wire on your regulator goes to ground. Check the resistance from the black wire to ground to make sure it's not open. Since your bike dies when the battery goes low, I think it's safe to assume your battery is good so you can ignore the instructions about checking the battery or installing a good one.

Mark

 

[carkivey3]

since I have new stator with new plug and a new rectifier that should eliminate that connection. first I have read about the red wire corroding. I will double check that connection. I trimmed wires going to plug to test voltage. it reads 11.8 volts just behind plug and same at battery while running. remember if unplugged it reads 14 volts at rectifier. it does not take a very good connection for a meter to read voltage but when pulling amps a bad connection will definitely lower voltage. I have also started thinking I may a short causing a big draw. I do have a clamp on ampmeter and I will measure amps out of battery while running but I have no idea what it should be

 

[Sharksawyer]

I would do AC check and make sure you're getting around 70V at 5k rpm. That will tell you lots.

Mark

 

[carkivey3]

forgot to mention. after trimming rectifier plug wires, black wire was .1 ohm to frame. neg battery terminal .1 ohms to frame and black wire at plug was .1 ohm to neg battery. red wire was .1ohm to pos battery. wiring appears to be good also.

 

[Sharksawyer]

forgot to mention. after trimming rectifier plug wires, black wire was .1 ohm to frame. neg battery terminal .1 ohms to frame and black wire at plug was .1 ohm to neg battery. red wire was .1ohm to pos battery. wiring appears to be good also.

:thumbup

 

[carkivey3]

I could double check ac voltage out of stator but I have mentioned I do have correct dc voltage out of rectifier with plug disconnected and reading off the terminals on rectifier

 

[Sharksawyer]

Sounds like everything checks out except for the battery. How old is the battery and is it OEM?

Mark

 

[carkivey3]

at one point I disconnected that battery and ran jumper cables to a new battery out of lawn mower. same results voltage did not increase after starting bike and revving to around 5000 rpms

 

[carkivey3]

charged battery overnight and it reads 12.8 volts. removed charger and let it sit for an hour. still at 12.8 volts. removed plug from rectifier and used spade terminals and alligator clips to run wires straight from rectifier to battery. started bike and battery read 11.9 volts. wires from rectifier read 13.2 volts. connected alligator clips to battery and battery voltage did not increase. revved engine and still no increase. removed alligator clips and tested voltage from rectifier. up to 14 volts while revving. bike ran approx. 5 mins. when I shut it down the battery still read 12.8 volts

 

[carkivey3]

well lets start from scratch. unplugged the new stator wires from rectifier. resistance checked passed coil to coil and coil to ground. started bike and getting 10-12 volts ac at idle all 3 coils. revved engine to 6-7000 and read mid to high 30-s . never got near the 70 volts mark mentioned. new type flywheel does not appear as it can go bad. would not expect new stator bad but it could happen. have any of you actually measured your stator like this before and what were your ac voltage readings?

 

[carkivey3]

wow. I came up with another test. I had an old battery. it read 11.4 volts. I unplugged the 2 wire connector from rectifier. hooked up my 2 wires I had made with spade connectors and alligator clips to that old battery. now I have a weak battery hooked to my charging system. I am still running the bike off its own battery. this means the power from stator and rectifier now going to old battery and not connected to bike wiring at all. I start bike and I am sending 13.2 volts to the old battery. rev engine and I get over 14 volts.

 

[Sharksawyer]

What's the story on the stator? OEM or aftermarket? Do you have all your magnets on your rotor?

Mark

 

[carkivey3]

new style rotor flywheel. no exposed magnets so they have to be in place

 

[Sharksawyer]

What about the stator? OEM or aftermarket?

Mark

 

[Sharksawyer]

wow. I came up with another test. I had an old battery. it read 11.4 volts. I unplugged the 2 wire connector from rectifier. hooked up my 2 wires I had made with spade connectors and alligator clips to that old battery. now I have a weak battery hooked to my charging system. I am still running the bike off its own battery. this means the power from stator and rectifier now going to old battery and not connected to bike wiring at all. I start bike and I am sending 13.2 volts to the old battery. rev engine and I get over 14 volts.

Apples and oranges...You have no load on the external battery so it has no problem. You throw it into the bike and I bet you have the same problem. You should be getting over 70V AC from stator. If you're only getting 30V, you have a problem.

Mark