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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Is the kickstand switch jumped?

Let's see if I understand the problem correctly, when in gear with the clutch pulled and the kickstand down or up, the starter relay doesn't click, with it in neutral and the rest the same, it still doesn't click.

If yes, then does the neutral light show up on the gauges?

You may have a bad fuel cut relay. If I read the wiring diagram the fuel cut relay coil is routed through the relays and ground for the starter goes through the normally open side of the fuel cut relay. Might be hot, I'd have to look at the diagram again, it's been a minute.

There is a test procedure for the fuel cut relay outlined in the service manual available for download and review here on the forum in the mechanical help section under the 2004-2006 tab.

Download the manual and start testing the components. It may sound silly, but also check your clutch switch bud, I've seen folks bang there head against the wall searching for a no start solution only to find the clutch switch disconnect or broken.
No there is no kick stand switch…no wires at all present in that area

Also it does show up neutral and when I’m in neutral The starter relay clicks and fuel pump primes…but no attempt to turn the engine over..

I will make sure I double check that but it should still start in neutral and it’s baffling it doesn’t even attempt to.
 

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Find the missing cushion. Grease the backs so they don't fall out. Washer behind the big starter wheel drop if there is one?
Let's fire this puppy up. Put that back together. Put the large connector back together. Good thing because mag and chemRe kind of make a resistance path so you etching new metal to scratch into... get it?

1. Ehhh, I know... Charge the battery.
2. Buy a volt meter.
3. Install the battery.
4. Place meter to 20v and place the probes on appropriate battery posts with alligator clips so you can see it has a good bite on the lead posts.
5. Turn the key on, kill to on, finger on start button, look at the meter reading 12 volts whatever. Start it and watch the meter.

Not about to touch the button just yet, meter reads 12v at this point who cares.
You pushed the button and the load is going to drop to what was the lowest number that flashed before your eyes?
5v? Junk battery and you pulled the rods for what? LOL... Pulling your leg from here.

Now you're going to multi task. I want you to find a good old plug, pull a sparksitck out, connect stick in harness, put the old plug in the stick, lay the plug on the bare top cover bolt and ground the threads on the bolt so it sits there. I don't care who you video, one is the load drop if any, and the other is if it spins the engine over, you'll see spark one way or the other.
 

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No there is no kick stand switch…no wires at all present in that area

Also it does show up neutral and when I’m in neutral The starter relay clicks and fuel pump primes…but no attempt to turn the engine over..

I will make sure I double check that but it should still start in neutral and it’s baffling it doesn’t even attempt to.
Check the fuel cut relay bro, the procedure is in the manual and it pretty straightforward and simple.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Find the missing cushion. Grease the backs so they don't fall out. Washer behind the big starter wheel drop if there is one?
Let's fire this puppy up. Put that back together. Put the large connector back together. Good thing because mag and chemRe kind of make a resistance path so you etching new metal to scratch into... get it?

1. Ehhh, I know... Charge the battery.
2. Buy a volt meter.
3. Install the battery.
4. Place meter to 20v and place the probes on appropriate battery posts with alligator clips so you can see it has a good bite on the lead posts.
5. Turn the key on, kill to on, finger on start button, look at the meter reading 12 volts whatever. Start it and watch the meter.

Not about to touch the button just yet, meter reads 12v at this point who cares.
You pushed the button and the load is going to drop to what was the lowest number that flashed before your eyes?
5v? Junk battery and you pulled the rods for what? LOL... Pulling your leg from here.

Now you're going to multi task. I want you to find a good old plug, pull a sparksitck out, connect stick in harness, put the old plug in the stick, lay the plug on the bare top cover bolt and ground the threads on the bolt so it sits there. I don't care who you video, one is the load drop if any, and the other is if it spins the engine over, you'll see spark one way or the other.
I will try this first thing in the morning…i hope it’s only the battery lol 🤞
 

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Im starting to get lost with all the things your testing and checking. Stupid question, i know you changed the battery, but have you tried using a jumper box? Or jumping it from a car or something? I only ask cause that's an easy way to test if it is just a battery problem. But yeah test that fuel cut off relay, and we can go from there.
 

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CAUTION:
When using a car battery, do not start the car and let it idle. Still puts out 12v as if a small battery. Only difference you are looking at is a suitcase for a bike battery, and a cargo container is the car battery holding a lot more of the same volt value and more cranking hours to spare.

We're training Green to be an aircraft mechanic. Tower said to remove the blocks away from the front wheels, and he thought you meant, pull the crank and spin by hand on the runway. We are on the runway and not lost, just a little flight delay... I see you're in first class... more champagne?
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
CAUTION:
When using a car battery, do not start the car and let it idle. Still puts out 12v as if a small battery. Only difference you are looking at is a suitcase for a bike battery, and a cargo container is the car battery holding a lot more of the same volt value and more cranking hours to spare.

We're training Green to be an aircraft mechanic. Tower said to remove the blocks away from the front wheels, and he thought you meant, pull the crank and spin by hand on the runway. We are on the runway and not lost, just a little flight delay... I see you're in first class... more champagne?
12.86v on the battery when I try to start it I get as low as 7.21v on the battery.

12.6v to start when I hooked up my truck to jump it and while trying to start it with jumper cables I push the start button and it dropped down to 6.47v

checking the fuel cut off switch now….
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Im starting to get lost with all the things your testing and checking. Stupid question, i know you changed the battery, but have you tried using a jumper box? Or jumping it from a car or something? I only ask cause that's an easy way to test if it is just a battery problem. But yeah test that fuel cut off relay, and we can go from there.
12.86v on the battery when I try to start it I get as low as 7.21v on the battery.

12.6v to start when I hooked up my truck to jump it and while trying to start it with jumper cables I push the start button and it dropped down to 6.47v

checking the fuel cut off switch now….
 

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Say the crank is free turning. We now want to take the jumper cables and connect to the lug that the thick cable on the starter motor, the ground cable to the engine. At the car, we want the hot side to the car battery, then you are going to take the ground of the jumper cable and jam it on a bare spot of the car so it turns the motor over direct, as if a bench test.

This way you do not have to yank the starter motor out. The arc off the cable to the bare part of the car is the spark it will make so you have to be quick on the jam it to the fender, not some threaded bolt and melt the threads kind of ground as it arcs. Won't turn, then it's the starter motor.

If the engine is free, if the bench test at the motor turned the engine over... now go after the rely wiring.
 

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Here is how you read the battery.
12.8 and you hit the start button and it starts... 11.1v is the load and right back to 12 volts and change in an instant! Perfect battery after charged, etc.

12.8 and the load is 7 and below, it says no PUSH. Volts push so think push the motor over so it turns. Junk battery. We know that right now with the bike's battery and that recorded load... key-put.

Buy a BS battery and I have a how to; cook and prep a new battery for service.

Signed,
NOLTT (no one listens to turtle) - North Shore ~ cult surf movie.
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Say the crank is free turning. We now want to take the jumper cables and connect to the lug that the thick cable on the starter motor, the ground cable to the engine. At the car, we want the hot side to the car battery, then you are going to take the ground of the jumper cable and jam it on a bare spot of the car so it turns the motor over direct, as if a bench test.

This way you do not have to yank the starter motor out. The arc off the cable to the bare part of the car is the spark it will make so you have to be quick on the jam it to the fender, not some threaded bolt and melt the threads kind of ground as it arcs. Won't turn, then it's the starter motor.

If the engine is free, if the bench test at the motor turned the engine over... now go after the rely wiring.
The only part I’m confused on is how to turn the crank from the crank plug … here is what I’m staring at right now.
 

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Where is bolt 15?

Back wheel off ground, that or just walk the bike in 6th gear. Do not pull in clutch lever with a dead engine. Just hand shift it up and move the bike back and forth to move up the gears. If there is a lockout system where you only get 1st and N, then throw it in first and push back and forth. Mark that area that needs a bolt at 12 o'clock say. and when you did all that pushing, the mark is someplace else? New battery!
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·

Where is bolt 15?

Back wheel off ground, that or just walk the bike in 6th gear. Do not pull in clutch lever with a dead engine. Just hand shift it up and move the bike back and forth to move up the gears. If there is a lockout system where you only get 1st and N, then throw it in first and push back and forth. Mark that area that needs a bolt at 12 o'clock say. and when you did all that pushing, the mark is someplace else? New battery!
That bolt is inside the assembly where I was yesterday…I took a picture
 

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Again, not familiar with the models. So is that a hex in there? Let's move the engine wheel wise and see where we are. For sure you need a battery. That is a bad load number and the battery is how old and then add that up
 

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12.7v is the minimum static charge, so your battery passes mister on that.

Anything below 9v under load, the battery won't turn the starter.

That battery is dead if it is 7v under load.

If it won't jump, look for your direct short to ground.

Maybe ohm the starter leads, good chance the starter motor is open and going to ground.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
Again, not familiar with the models. So is that a hex in there? Let's move the engine wheel wise and see where we are. For sure you need a battery. That is a bad load number and the battery is how old and then add that up
Slight update…i got a new battery from Yamaha and it’s still the same issue no difference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
Again, not familiar with the models. So is that a hex in there? Let's move the engine wheel wise and see where we are. For sure you need a battery. That is a bad load number and the battery is how old and then add that up
Also I took the fuel tank off and I’m hearing what sounds like a possible starter turning but very slow. I hear a click then a light winding for like second or so…hmmm
 

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So brand new battery replaced today. Still same problem with a no start. Previously stated that you can hear the relay click when trying to start. You think you hear a slow moving starter sound now when you try to start the bike.

So now we have to figure out what other things to check. Going through the shop manual I've come up with some possible things, one could just be your starter is shot and weak, or you have a bad ground for the starter. Another possible is your starter clutch is bad, making it so your starter can't spin the engine over.

I feel your next step is, if you haven't already get the shop manual and go through the steps for testing the starter it's self, need to determine if that is good to go before making more steps.
 
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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
So brand new battery replaced today. Still same problem with a no start. Previously stated that you can hear the relay click when trying to start. You think you hear a slow moving starter sound now when you try to start the bike.

So now we have to figure out what other things to check. Going through the shop manual I've come up with some possible things, one could just be your starter is shot and weak, or you have a bad ground for the starter. Another possible is your starter clutch is bad, making it so your starter can't spin the engine over.

I feel your next step is, if you haven't already get the shop manual and go through the steps for testing the starter it's self, need to determine if that is good to go before making more steps.
10-4 …i just replaced the starter with a brand new one a few days ago..I think I need to determine if the ground is bad. I will go through the trouble shooting steps and see if that’s the issue. Makes sense..that is correct I think I hear it trying to move for a split second when I push the start button.
 
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