Yamaha R1 Forum: YZF-R1 Forums banner
61 - 80 of 83 Posts

·
Like The Rising Phoenix
Joined
·
2,681 Posts
10-4 …i just replaced the starter with a brand new one a few days ago..I think I need to determine if the ground is bad. I will go through the trouble shooting steps and see if that’s the issue. Makes sense..that is correct I think I hear it trying to move for a split second when I push the start button.
I must of missed where you replaced the starter. But yeah, lets start with the wiring then and see what's happening there. Also while your at it and checking, make sure all the contacts are clean so that they make a good connection.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1202067

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter · #62 ·
Again, not familiar with the models. So is that a hex in there? Let's move the engine wheel wise and see where we are. For sure you need a battery. That is a bad load number and the battery is how old and then add that up
Soooo i checked wiring and connections… all good.

I tried to also start the starter manually by jumping it and it made a weird noise and click. I then removed the stator cover and looked inside where I previously posted pictures of and without the stator and wheels in it spins freely but with the stator and crank wheels in it doesn’t move

this means the engine is seized up a bit??? What do I do from here? How do I get the wheel inside to move and crank the bike over? How do Un-seize it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter · #63 ·
I must of missed where you replaced the starter. But yeah, lets start with the wiring then and see what's happening there. Also while your at it and checking, make sure all the contacts are clean so that they make a good connection.
Soooo i checked wiring and connections… all good.

I tried to also start the starter manually by jumping it and it made a weird noise and click. I then removed the stator cover and looked inside where I previously posted pictures of and without the stator and wheels in it spins freely but with the stator and crank wheels in it doesn’t move

this means the engine is seized up a bit??? What do I do from here? How do I get the wheel inside to move and crank the bike over? How do Un-seize it?
 

·
Like The Rising Phoenix
Joined
·
2,681 Posts
Soooo i checked wiring and connections… all good.

I tried to also start the starter manually by jumping it and it made a weird noise and click. I then removed the stator cover and looked inside where I previously posted pictures of and without the stator and wheels in it spins freely but with the stator and crank wheels in it doesn’t move

this means the engine is seized up a bit??? What do I do from here? How do I get the wheel inside to move and crank the bike over? How do Un-seize it?
How did you try moving it? Have you attempted to spin the rear wheel while the bike is in a high gear to see if the engine is seized?
I went back and looked at your first post on here, all you said is the bike sat for 7 years before you bought it. Do you know why it just sat? Or any history on it?
If the engine truly is seized up, then we need to know why before we can really move on. So time to do some testing to make sure. Bike on rear stand and put it in 6th gear if you can, then turn that wheel and see what happens.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1202067

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter · #65 ·
How did you try moving it? Have you attempted to spin the rear wheel while the bike is in a high gear to see if the engine is seized?
I went back and looked at your first post on here, all you said is the bike sat for 7 years before you bought it. Do you know why it just sat? Or any history on it?
If the engine truly is seized up, then we need to know why before we can really move on. So time to do some testing to make sure. Bike on rear stand and put it in 6th gear if you can, then turn that wheel and see what happens.
Yes it sat for years…just needed a fuel pump. It was laid down prior and the previous owner didn’t want to ride anymore so he covered it up and let it sit..I’m in the desert it doesn’t rain much out here..but one issue it had was the tank was rusted..

i also did try to put it in gear while lifted and tried to turn the tire and nothing happened like it was locked into place.
 

·
Like The Rising Phoenix
Joined
·
2,681 Posts
Yes it sat for years…just needed a fuel pump. It was laid down prior and the previous owner didn’t want to ride anymore so he covered it up and let it sit..I’m in the desert it doesn’t rain much out here..but one issue it had was the tank was rusted..

i also did try to put it in gear while lifted and tried to turn the tire and nothing happened like it was locked into place.
Did you get it into 6th gear? Makes it a little easier to try and turn. But yeah if its locked up, then we gotta figure out why. And that could be the hard part. I'll have to look into some things and see what other options you might have.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1202067

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter · #67 ·
Did you get it into 6th gear? Makes it a little easier to try and turn. But yeah if its locked up, then we gotta figure out why. And that could be the hard part. I'll have to look into some things and see what other options you might have.
No i didnt…i will try that though first thing.
Awesome please do and let me know what you find out. Thanks!
 

·
Registered
'08 r1
Joined
·
1,790 Posts
Remove the timing cover on the right side of the engine and turn the crank with a break over bar and the correct attachment. I can never remember what size to use so I always grab 3 or 4 sockets somewhere around 17mm.

Do this with the transmission in neutral.

Pro tip, remove the spark plugs and drop some mineral spirits or marvels mystery oil in it and do it with the plugs out. Let the oil work on the rings for a couple hours. This will minimize ring and cylinder damage breaking it over.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter · #69 ·
Remove the timing cover on the right side of the engine and turn the crank with a break over bar and the correct attachment. I can never remember what size to use so I always grab 3 or 4 sockets somewhere around 17mm.

Do this with the transmission in neutral.

Pro tip, remove the spark plugs and drop some mineral spirits or marvels mystery oil in it and do it with the plugs out. Let the oil work on the rings for a couple hours. This will minimize ring and cylinder damage breaking it over.
This is the timing cover right?
 

Attachments

·
Like The Rising Phoenix
Joined
·
2,681 Posts
Remove the timing cover on the right side of the engine and turn the crank with a break over bar and the correct attachment. I can never remember what size to use so I always grab 3 or 4 sockets somewhere around 17mm.

Do this with the transmission in neutral.

Pro tip, remove the spark plugs and drop some mineral spirits or marvels mystery oil in it and do it with the plugs out. Let the oil work on the rings for a couple hours. This will minimize ring and cylinder damage breaking it over.
Yeah that's the other way to do it, which would of been step 2 if the wheel thing didn't work. But yeah follow this step now if you can and we can just jump to this and then go from there. If the engine does seem to be locked up, its going to be a bigger headache then i think you wanna get into. But we shall see once we get past this.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1202067

·
Registered
'08 r1
Joined
·
1,790 Posts
Yeah that's the other way to do it, which would of been step 2 if the wheel thing didn't work. But yeah follow this step now if you can and we can just jump to this and then go from there. If the engine does seem to be locked up, its going to be a bigger headache then i think you wanna get into. But we shall see once we get past this.
I'll bet you lunch she spins free and the starter clutch sprags or clutch pack is the issue.

OP, when you get her turning, unhook your fuel source and crank her free with no plugs for a few minutes to get a meniscus of oil back on the bearings, then button her up and give her hell.

It would be a pity to do all this and have her spin a big end or a main right off the bat.
 

·
Like The Rising Phoenix
Joined
·
2,681 Posts
I'll bet you lunch she spins free and the starter clutch sprags or clutch pack is the issue.

OP, when you get her turning, unhook your fuel source and crank her free with no plugs for a few minutes to get a meniscus of oil back on the bearings, then button her up and give her hell.

It would be a pity to do all this and have her spin a big end or a main right off the bat.
I've been thinking starter clutch. But till we know it spins free not much else can really be done.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1202067

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,052 Posts
Soooo i checked wiring and connections… all good.

I tried to also start the starter manually by jumping it and it made a weird noise and click. I then removed the stator cover and looked inside where I previously posted pictures of and without the stator and wheels in it spins freely but with the stator and crank wheels in it doesn’t move

this means the engine is seized up a bit??? What do I do from here? How do I get the wheel inside to move and crank the bike over? How do Un-seize it?
spray wd-40 into plug holes and let sit overnight. have someone push you on bike and let clutch lever go (in 1st gear)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
Green, you are going to be a pro at this pretty soon. Let's recap:
1. I think you are squared away wire wise. Everything should be there since we now know a little more history to the bike. A crash/spooked/covered/sat 7 tears ago. But we knew that is now the hindsight. It changed hands from one damp environment to a dry climate. Thus, the rusty tank, the seized [assuming] or gummy gas is why you changed it out so you know it might be a rusty whatever, it's not the fuel, not the wiring. That eliminates Fuel ~ Spark ~ WOT is left is chase your tail I told you so = Compression Very FIRST MOVE!

2. Schooled you real quick, Green. I know, I know, you can type so much info till it turns to 16 pages worth of oh, did anyone say compression first? Tom Cruise, "I'm glad we had this conversation?" And when you removed the stator cover, spun the one way starter clutch saying, 'the large wheel spins free,' ... you had me at hello, I'd like to order the gasket covers I didn't need to remove, but here is my tuition money, learning the first rule of the otto cycle.

3. I think we are up to the question, which side was the crash? Stator has two dowel pins that when crashed on the stator cover, those bend to an S or Z kind of pushed the stator into the rotor? So a photo would show if there is any touch points, or you look. Seems like you just pulled it off, and again, not familiar with one of these ... yet.

4. You'll know soon enough to see that. Right(?), to make AC, that air gap has to be close, but scrub close, is a few large to replace those two. Then we have to think; is the crank end out of center due to the crash. Just saying crash talk. Back to what seems like condensation and rust may have seized to the cylinder walls. Are we up to said back and forth and here we are?
__

We will assume the crank is locked. Why the low load numbers on the car and bike batteries. Keep the battery charged for now. Let's keep assuming the bike is going to light up and we will see our correct [my backyard volt meter] shows 11.1v and a quick back to 12+ volts, does not matter, we want 11 or better is normal. We find the 9 or below = No Push! Battery is junk.

Lettuce keep pouring a mix of salad dressing down the cylinders. I think I got a lame joke in here, but lettuce go to the backyard and pull some apples off the tree. She walked away from making apple sauce from scratch, the alarm goes off, I go running in and find all that sugar carbon coated all the way up the stainless steel pot. Filled it up with vinegar and and walked away for days. Got most of it out. Happened again and this time I tried ratio of vinny and a little peroxide. WOW, did not need the steel brush in the drill. Wiped right off.

Green, your mission, if you decide to be the mad scientist, is going to be to pour in peroxide in along with the other suggestions short of the vinegar. You may now head to the newest pack of single edge razors and clean each side of those areas you took off and on the cases. Do not nick the flat surface. I find straight down on the 90 degree. Leaves lines but will not hydraulic over a piece you left and there is your weep/seep.

HTG... hand wipes forehead, WOT a Turkey!... your bikes new name. Leave Turkey in the chemical cage for say what, hands off for 2 days first round? Start looking up gaskets and ordering. Clean the bike up. You're almost out of the woods.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter · #76 ·
Green, you are going to be a pro at this pretty soon. Let's recap:
1. I think you are squared away wire wise. Everything should be there since we now know a little more history to the bike. A crash/spooked/covered/sat 7 tears ago. But we knew that is now the hindsight. It changed hands from one damp environment to a dry climate. Thus, the rusty tank, the seized [assuming] or gummy gas is why you changed it out so you know it might be a rusty whatever, it's not the fuel, not the wiring. That eliminates Fuel ~ Spark ~ WOT is left is chase your tail I told you so = Compression Very FIRST MOVE!

2. Schooled you real quick, Green. I know, I know, you can type so much info till it turns to 16 pages worth of oh, did anyone say compression first? Tom Cruise, "I'm glad we had this conversation?" And when you removed the stator cover, spun the one way starter clutch saying, 'the large wheel spins free,' ... you had me at hello, I'd like to order the gasket covers I didn't need to remove, but here is my tuition money, learning the first rule of the otto cycle.

3. I think we are up to the question, which side was the crash? Stator has two dowel pins that when crashed on the stator cover, those bend to an S or Z kind of pushed the stator into the rotor? So a photo would show if there is any touch points, or you look. Seems like you just pulled it off, and again, not familiar with one of these ... yet.

4. You'll know soon enough to see that. Right(?), to make AC, that air gap has to be close, but scrub close, is a few large to replace those two. Then we have to think; is the crank end out of center due to the crash. Just saying crash talk. Back to what seems like condensation and rust may have seized to the cylinder walls. Are we up to said back and forth and here we are?
__

We will assume the crank is locked. Why the low load numbers on the car and bike batteries. Keep the battery charged for now. Let's keep assuming the bike is going to light up and we will see our correct [my backyard volt meter] shows 11.1v and a quick back to 12+ volts, does not matter, we want 11 or better is normal. We find the 9 or below = No Push! Battery is junk.

Lettuce keep pouring a mix of salad dressing down the cylinders. I think I got a lame joke in here, but lettuce go to the backyard and pull some apples off the tree. She walked away from making apple sauce from scratch, the alarm goes off, I go running in and find all that sugar carbon coated all the way up the stainless steel pot. Filled it up with vinegar and and walked away for days. Got most of it out. Happened again and this time I tried ratio of vinny and a little peroxide. WOW, did not need the steel brush in the drill. Wiped right off.

Green, your mission, if you decide to be the mad scientist, is going to be to pour in peroxide in along with the other suggestions short of the vinegar. You may now head to the newest pack of single edge razors and clean each side of those areas you took off and on the cases. Do not nick the flat surface. I find straight down on the 90 degree. Leaves lines but will not hydraulic over a piece you left and there is your weep/seep.

HTG... hand wipes forehead, WOT a Turkey!... your bikes new name. Leave Turkey in the chemical cage for say what, hands off for 2 days first round? Start looking up gaskets and ordering. Clean the bike up. You're almost out of the woods.
Update——so I manually cranked the bike and it was seized…I let the oil sit and got it freed up this morning. I then buttoned her back up and we got it cranking now. It kept spitting out the penetrating oil from the exhaust..is that normal? I then got it to start… it would run for a few secs or so and stop.. I don’t have all the screws on the stator cover side. Oil was dripping out of it. I ordered them and new gaskets. Could this be the issue of it starting and staying on?? I’m sure it needs to be sealed up properly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
Probably stale gas in the fuel pump? Kind of starts with some mixed new gas or the same gas that was left in the tank and fuel pump? Oil coming out of the exhaust or burns mixed with gas is normal and will go away once running. The leaks are the broken gasket areas. Don't need new bolts. Those can be reused, but once the gasket is broken, a new one is in order to seal the cover back up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter · #79 ·
Probably stale gas in the fuel pump? Kind of starts with some mixed new gas or the same gas that was left in the tank and fuel pump? Oil coming out of the exhaust or burns mixed with gas is normal and will go away once running. The leaks are the broken gasket areas. Don't need new bolts. Those can be reused, but once the gasket is broken, a new one is in order to seal the cover back up.
You hit it right on the dot the tank was rusted and still impurities I’m taking it off and going to clean it and use KBS tank sealer cleaner and sealant. I removed the tank and brown pieces of fuel mix were coming out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
If say the fuel pump makes noise, it might be free enough to create pressure. Rust is so fine and will fill up the internal filter in the pump assembly itself and lower pressure. Might need a new pump, but you'll see how bad the rust is and go from there thinking of changing the pump out.

There is no way of cleaning the internal filtering. The outside screen is the one pre-screen, but the super small particles will be stopped in the main filter body.
 
61 - 80 of 83 Posts
Top