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That's a great question and the general consensus is yes, you can use the used bolts for the plastigauge.

The manual says to buy 2 new sets of rod bolts and to chunk the set you use to measure.

See if this shoe fits, measure them with the used bolts and if they measure way out of spec, try with a fresh set of rod bolts. If they are in the window, call it good.

Basically, if you have the stomach for it, use the used bolts. If you don't, don't.

Another option is to buy a set of arp bolts and use them to measure and then reuse them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 · (Edited)
I believe I got it all timed up and ready to go. The dot on both cams are facing up, cylinder #1 is at TDC and the T mark on crank is aligned with crankcases. Tensioner is in and I rotated the engine a few times to double check. Also, when you rotate the starter clutch by hand on these bikes when its around the magnet and the cover off it’s supposed to feel notchy like that right? I can feel it rotating over each magnet I guess that’s how I can describe it
 

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Give her a yank and see if she spits. Gonna take a minute to get fuel steady in the rail. A few minutes of run time and she'll clear up though. Give her hell.

In other words, send it.
 

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Haha just gunna send it. Hopefully I can get some assistance today getting the engine back in frame. Then comes a million connections, hoses, and all that extra stuff
Good to see you getting it back together now. Wish I could remember the tricks I had come up with to get the engine back in. But its been a while, I just remember skate boards and jacks. But I also do have a motorcycle jack around somewhere that I used sometimes too. But I use to do it by myself.
 
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I usually put the motor in my lap, stab the rear mount and then rock her forward and stab the top rear mount. Takes me about 6 or 7 minutes by myself. I'm getting pretty good at it.
 

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I mostly just stick with yamalube. I don't remember what I did for the break in when I did my rebuild.
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Thanks. The manual says 20w40. This may be another silly question, and I think its just me being paranoid from what I saw when I first opened the oil pan up with the piece/pieces of gasket ripped laying in the oil pickup strainer.

When I had the engine with its weight on the oil pan the last few weeks, is that putting extra pressure on the oil pan gasket and possibly be able to weaken it to the point it can rip? I didn’t use an engine stand rebuilding this motor so I’m curious. I have an extra gasket and a part of me wants to change it for peace of mind, idk
 

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Thanks. The manual says 20w40. This may be another silly question, and I think its just me being paranoid from what I saw when I first opened the oil pan up with the piece/pieces of gasket ripped laying in the oil pickup strainer.

When I had the engine with its weight on the oil pan the last few weeks, is that putting extra pressure on the oil pan gasket and possibly be able to weaken it to the point it can rip? I didn’t use an engine stand rebuilding this motor so I’m curious. I have an extra gasket and a part of me wants to change it for peace of mind, idk
Not sure what to tell you with that question. All I can tell you is from my own experience, as I never used any engine stands either. I just used Jacks, and a skate board to move it from the frame. Then once away from the bike I dead lifted it on to a metal cart and worked on it there. Did pretty much the same thing with my 2000 R1 I had before the 05, when I had to replace the transmission in that one. As long as everything was put together the way it should be and torqued to the specs you should be fine. Mine has been back together for like 10+ years, if not more. I kind of lost track of how long ago I rebuilt it, and not leaked yet. But Its sat a lot in and out of storage more then its been ridden. Things kind of changed in my life then, and I drifted away from riding as much. Till now as I'm working on my health and fitness as I get back more into the sport like I was when I was much younger. But back on topic, no I never saw a problem with not using a stand, and never even gave it a 2nd thought.
 
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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Thank you. I torqued all 15 bolts before flipping it over so it should be fine. That’s great that you still have it. While my throttle bodies are off is there anything I can do to clean them like the injectors? Also I didn’t open up my thermostat to check it, I’ll keep an eye out on the engine temp I guess
 

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Thank you. I torqued all 15 bolts before flipping it over so it should be fine. That’s great that you still have it. While my throttle bodies are off is there anything I can do to clean them like the injectors? Also I didn’t open up my thermostat to check it, I’ll keep an eye out on the engine temp I guess
Motion pro makes a handy battery powered injector cleaning tool.
 

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Thank you. I torqued all 15 bolts before flipping it over so it should be fine. That’s great that you still have it. While my throttle bodies are off is there anything I can do to clean them like the injectors? Also I didn’t open up my thermostat to check it, I’ll keep an eye out on the engine temp I guess
Just make sure everything is moving smoothly, and clean any carbon build up off the butterflies, if it looks to be any. Injectors can be cleaned if you need. But you have to get the kit that was mentioned from motion pro.
 
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