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Im eating mine
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all I haven't been here for awhile til now. I have a 07 R1 that I haven't been riding too much for a few years, I did start it a few times a year and have gone for a few rides but nothing big. Today I went to start it up and noticed right away that the oil indicator window was looking cloudy milky. Which I've never seen before I checked rad and the overflow bottle was down to the bottom I opened the rad and could see coolant up at least 7/8 full. I opened the oil filler cap and it looked like moisture is there. There's no oil in coolant as I drained it and its clear,I came here and started to search for the problem and guys are saying it could be the water pump seal? Which I don't see as the culprit as there would be oil in coolant no? Also I downloaded the manual from here and it doesn't really show the hose routing unless I missed it. Hoping that its just the seals that guys are talking about just would like to know which ones to replace and how can I be sure that this is the cause without wasting oil changes and filters.? Thanks for any help ......
 

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An R1 kinda day!
2015 Yamaha YZF R1 Raven Edition
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610 Posts
Starting and just letting idle or even short and or infrequent rides won't burn the condensation out. I would try an oil change, take her out and stretch her legs. Then check to see how the oil looks.
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Hope this helps.
 

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Im eating mine
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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks.... its been a few years since oil change and I only have a few thousand kilometers on it. Still doesn't explain the missing coolant which was down a bit none in overflow bottle and about 7/8 in rad...
 

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Im eating mine
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Discussion Starter #6
Oh wow thanks going to have to check that. Just got back from picking up new oil +filter
 

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Im eating mine
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31 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Oh wow thanks going to have to check that. Just got back from picking up new oil +filter
Hey Ozzian thanks for your help how the hell do I get that pipe out its up against header pipe do I have to remove 1 pipe to get to it thanks
IMG_20191106_090709918_HDR[1].jpg
 

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R1.. The fast kind
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1,018 Posts
As milheim05 said, you have to unbolt the headers.

When i did this on my bike i removed the entire exhaust to be able to take off the oil pan to be able to spot the leak in the first place...

If it's posible to losen the bolts holding the header pipes to the EXUP housing you will save some time.
Sadly those bolts often are stuck in the threads, big risk they break and then you have problem.

Another thing, the oil pan have sort of walls inside keeping about 2deciliters of fluid.
You have to flush with fresh oil to get the coolant contaminated oil out.
 

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Im eating mine
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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
okay thanks all for ur help I figured maybe only 1 header pipe would have to come off... but ur saying that the oil pan has oil possibly trapped inside like some channels that cant be drained unless u take it off?.no other way to flush it out?But I guess its good to remove pan, did u see o ring damaged in there as soon as u removed pan? I just hope its nothing further than that o ring...damm.. Oh another thing how long can engine sit with no oil in it since I drained it? Is it a basic metric o ring? Or can u only get it from dealer? thanks
 

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R1.. The fast kind
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Yes, i used an o-ring out of a regular assortment box i have.
Of course you can order the correct one via a dealer or online.
93210-235a1-00

Reason i removed the oil pan was to be able to pressurise the cooling system by applying ~1 bar air pressure via a pressure regulator and air compressor attached to the hose normaly going in to the coolant reservoir.

Emediatly drops of coolant started forming between the pipe and coolant pump.

Any kind of pump, e,g a bicycle pump, will make it but be aware not to push to high pressure since it easily could break the radiator or a hose.

No, you don't have to remove the oil pan but you have to flush with fresh oil to get out as much coolant as possible.

But if you have to remove the exhaust you could as well take down the oil pan, both to clean out old oil and to make sure you get out the old o-ring and make sure the new one get in alright.
 

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Im eating mine
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Discussion Starter #12
I just hope this is the problem cause mine could be something else in the equation....ugghhh
 

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Premium Member
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As milheim05 said, you have to unbolt the headers.

When i did this on my bike i removed the entire exhaust to be able to take off the oil pan to be able to spot the leak in the first place...

If it's posible to losen the bolts holding the header pipes to the EXUP housing you will save some time.
Sadly those bolts often are stuck in the threads, big risk they break and then you have problem.

Another thing, the oil pan have sort of walls inside keeping about 2deciliters of fluid.
You have to flush with fresh oil to get the coolant contaminated oil out.
What do you recommend using to get the header bolts off easily???

I'm going to have to remove mine soon.
 

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R1.. The fast kind
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I just hope this is the problem cause mine could be something else in the equation....ugghhh
Yes i know, when it happened to me so little coolant was lost at a time but i saw some steam clouding the level glas and the bike had never done that before so to be sure it wasn't an external leakage i dumped out the engine oil in a clear plastic container and placed a book under one corner so coolant, which over time will separate and sink, will end up in the lowpoint corner and next morning a blue puddle was shining in that low corner (y) :)

Since i've already wasted an oilchange of motul oil i wanted to be sure to find the leakage and make sure it was fixed i saw no other way than remove the oil pan, but that's just me :)
 

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R1.. The fast kind
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What do you recommend using to get the header bolts off easily???

I'm going to have to remove mine soon.
That's hard to say, if they never been removed they may be stuck.
I'd start spray on some penetrating oil product for rusty threads in advance, however it wont be easy to reach with fairings attached.
But what ever you do, don't break of the studs, that really will be problematic.

The reason i don't know how hard they usually are to remove is because i had my exhaust of at least every second year and then i put on anti seize past on the nutts holding the headers to the cylinder head so they are easy to remove.

The five M6 allenhead screws holding the header pipes to the EXUP housing sure will get stuck in just a couple of years.

Last time i had the exhaust off i decided to try loosen them because it will save time if i have to drop the oil pan or remove the headers pipes again.

I did everything possible to get them out but three of them broke so i had to bore them out, on the other hand, i was planing for that so it was alright.

Normaly i go the long way and remove the rear top fairing, remove the slip ons, remove the link pipe / catalythic conv, remove the airducts and the tiny coolant hose from the thermostat housing on top right side of the radiator.

Remove the three screws holding the radiator so i can reach the eight nuts holding the header pipes....
 

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Im eating mine
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Discussion Starter #16
Wow what a pain to get apart had to release exhaust pipes and lower it , I did get the pan off too, was urs as bad looking as mine....of course coolant with water looks crappy.... I see the o ring looks more like a small band mine doesnt look bad, did u just replace urs with the correct diameter regular round type? IMG_20191106_150856897_HDR[1].jpg IMG_20191106_151331058[1].jpg had a bolt snap on header junction at bottom gone bring it to work ton and drill it out.
 

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Im eating mine
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Discussion Starter #17
What do you recommend using to get the header bolts off easily???

I'm going to have to remove mine soon.
Are you taking just the nut or the actual stud out of the block? Mine came off pretty easy the (Nuts Only) when Im done everything is going to get anti seize on them for future removal.... I used penatrating oil on nuts...but i still had a allen bolt on bottom of header stack snap off have to drill it out.....
 

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R1.. The fast kind
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1,018 Posts
Wow what a pain to get apart had to release exhaust pipes and lower it , I did get the pan off too, was urs as bad looking as mine....of course coolant with water looks crappy.... I see the o ring looks more like a small band mine doesnt look bad, did u just replace urs with the correct diameter regular round type? View attachment 1008871 View attachment 1008872 had a bolt snap on header junction at bottom gone bring it to work ton and drill it out.
Damn, at least there's no doubt where the coolant went, hehe

In my case it wasn't visible, just by separation i could detect the coolant..

In retrospect it was really good you took the time to remove the oil pan, good work.

Yes, it shall be a regular round profile o-ring, not a square.
My o-ring wasn't that bad either but with a new one in place all was good.

I strongly recommend you fill up the cooling system before puting the oil pan back and pressurise the system and look for furter leaks (y)
 

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Im eating mine
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Discussion Starter #19
Yes I was thinking the same I will put a new o ring on it reassemble it and fill it with just some distilled water and try to pressurize it.....Im done for today gotta work night shift ton+tom night....Ill be resuming on weekend so motor should be ok without any oil in it for a bit? Thanks again for all ur help......
 

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R1.. The fast kind
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1,018 Posts
Sorry for missing your question.
Of course water in the oil isn't a good thing because it may start corrosion on bare surfaces like the cam lobes

If you feel for it you could take off the cam cover to make sure camshafts look okey.
That way you also can remove oil slush there and put some fresh oil over the cams, lifters and down the drain channels, removing as much of the slush as possible.

If not doing that i guess it's alright running the engine to normal temp with a sheap engine oil (for motorcycles) and then make a nother oilchange...
 
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