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Discussion Starter #21
Ah right, so that block connector would of plugged into a immobilizer antenna? I'll have a scan about now for a used ecu and lockset. Thanks for your help
 

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That’s crap. It isn’t going to hurt it. I’ve read so many threads and articles and have never seen the “why.” It’s always “well that’s what I’ve always been told.”

The fear is always an explosion but that’s it.
I guess if you want to run that risk.

Its just easier to avoid the risk by leaving the car off while jumping the bike.

I’ll get another electrical engineer in here. I just have the college degree but don’t necessarily work in the field every day. @bacchus40
 

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I guess if you want to run that risk.

Its just easier to avoid the risk by leaving the car off while jumping the bike.

I’ll get another electrical engineer in here. I just have the college degree but don’t necessarily work in the field every day. @bacchus40
Again, what’s the risk (besides explosion)? That’s what I’m legitimately asking, because the draw is only going to be so much from the starter and lower charger battery of the bike. No one seems to be able to explain why a car charging system is “too much” for a bike. 12v is 12v
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Ok so here's a little update so far.. firstly hooked it up to a full charged car battery I got handy and still other than cranking a slight bit faster there is no life from fuel pump..
I then ran a 12v straight from the battery to to pump (so I could touch the connector to try and get some fuel down for it to fire)
I put the tank back on and connected everything back up with the airbox etc.. touched battery and fuel pump spun and could here it pumping the fuel, I then tried cranking the bike while manually activating the fuel pump and it wouldn't fire..

The above test was only done on the off chance it might fire..
I think that just confirms what I was told earlier and it's gonna be immobilizer and ecu related.. I've ordered this to start
1012786

I'm not sure if it's gonna solve the problem but it will rule out the immobilizer and allow me to just change the ecu for a like for like rather than change the lock set and transponder etc.. any reasons why anyone can see this working / not working?
 

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That’s crap. It isn’t going to hurt it. I’ve read so many threads and articles and have never seen the “why.” It’s always “well that’s what I’ve always been told.”

The fear is always an explosion but that’s it.
I think the fear is that the battery is CAPABLE of providing a MUCH larger amperage. So if anything goes wrong, be it electrically, or physically (tight quarters, the pos clamp could touch the frame), shorting 650CCA is a lot worse than shorting 180CCA, and sure, steady-state operation is the same, i.e. when everything is running and she's idling there is no difference, but the transient response of the system under sudden heavy electrical load could vary significantly.

That's the engineer in me, but the realist in me jumps bikes with car battery's, be in started or not, all the time with no issue...

The fact that the battery CAN supply a much larger amperage is not the issue, amperage is drawn from a battery, not supplied from a battery if you catch my drift.

12v is 12v
TL;DR= True for steady-state, but the transient response could vary.
 

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I know you said you had a spare fuel pump relay, but are you certain that the relay was good, or was it just supplied with the bike?
A friend with a CBR600RR just faced similar issue with indicators, no life, assumed relay, bought one off some fella, still didn't work, ended up hauling his bike apart even though I said hold on we'll get you a new relay to try, he didn't want to wait for it to get in through amazon, now his wiring is all over the place and the bike is in pieces, the new relay gets in and voila, works like a charm...
I would confirm the relay works as it should, hook it up to another circuit if possible, or make a makeshift circuit from a bulb and run wires directly off the battery, touch the solenoid side off the battery and see if the light turns on... If not, she's a dud.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I know you said you had a spare fuel pump relay, but are you certain that the relay was good, or was it just supplied with the bike?
A friend with a CBR600RR just faced similar issue with indicators, no life, assumed relay, bought one off some fella, still didn't work, ended up hauling his bike apart even though I said hold on we'll get you a new relay to try, he didn't want to wait for it to get in through amazon, now his wiring is all over the place and the bike is in pieces, the new relay gets in and voila, works like a charm...
I would confirm the relay works as it should, hook it up to another circuit if possible, or make a makeshift circuit from a bulb and run wires directly off the battery, touch the solenoid side off the battery and see if the light turns on... If not, she's a dud.
I've the fuel pump relay is a multi purpose one thats jot a few jobs on the bike from what i gather and its got about 16 wires going into it so i wouldn't know where to start, I have however tested to solionid and that is all good.. cheers for your thoughts
 

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The immo bypass should work (glad you found find it easily). I advise you get that first before any more jiggery pokery on your wires. So far as that Hi signal is on on your dash, that bike isn't starting.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
The immo bypass should work (glad you found find it easily). I advise you get that first before any more jiggery pokery on your wires. So far as that Hi signal is on on your dash, that bike isn't starting.
Cheers pal I'll keep the thread up to date 👍
 

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I've the fuel pump relay is a multi purpose one thats jot a few jobs on the bike from what i gather and its got about 16 wires going into it so i wouldn't know where to start, I have however tested to solionid and that is all good.. cheers for your thoughts
Yeah as long as you've isolated that solenoid and know it works then you should be good!
 

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The one by your pinky looks like the 12vdc auxiliary connector on my '15. Not saying that it is, but it looks like it.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
The one by your pinky looks like the 12vdc auxiliary connector on my '15. Not saying that it is, but it looks like it.
Cheers for your reply.. that one is fitted with a cap and looks to be blanked from factory so would make sense if it was for an aux.. it's the other 4 keeping me awake at night!! :oops::ROFLMAO:
 

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I’m otw to the cabin, when I get there I’ll haul up the wiring diagram and see if I can’t figure it out for you. Wanna let me know exactly the colours of the wires, like black/grey or just black etc.? Want to confirm cause I can’t really tell in the pic iirc. Writing this quick on my phone no time to check atm.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
I’m otw to the cabin, when I get there I’ll haul up the wiring diagram and see if I can’t figure it out for you. Wanna let me know exactly the colours of the wires, like black/grey or just black etc.? Want to confirm cause I can’t really tell in the pic iirc. Writing this quick on my phone no time to check atm.
Hi pal, all four are black with goldish colour dots along them.. here's a better pic of the colours.. thanks a lot (y)
1012797
 

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Discussion Starter #36
If it does come to it and I need to replace the ecu would it be worth me fitting This ebay Item instead? Are they generally straight forward to fit? Any setting up required or does the autotune box do this for you? Am I right in thinking it should be mapped so the immobiliser is deactivated (incase the immobiliser bypass emulator doesn't work for any reason?) It has two bros racing cans will that make it anymore difficult to set up? Also will there be much difference to the power of the bike?
Sorry for all the questions hopefully someone with some tuning knowledge can help me with this one. Cheers
 

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1012803
1012804


So, I found this... I'm not sure if this is it or not 100% but that is the 2009 service manual wiring diagram, and it's go 2 connections going into component 98 (anti-theft alarm), they are all the same colour wire, black, although it does not show black/yellow. Interesting that your wires are black/yellow, otherwise I would say 100%, but if I were a betting man, given the fact that the bike had been at least attempted to be stolen, "Anti-Theft Alarm" seems to fit the bill... Can't guarantee it but I mean, seems legit to me. lol

also, are there wires cut in the connector with 2 wires? like is it pinless or are there still severed wires inside it?
 

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Discussion Starter #38
View attachment 1012803 View attachment 1012804

So, I found this... I'm not sure if this is it or not 100% but that is the 2009 service manual wiring diagram, and it's go 2 connections going into component 98 (anti-theft alarm), they are all the same colour wire, black, although it does not show black/yellow. Interesting that your wires are black/yellow, otherwise I would say 100%, but if I were a betting man, given the fact that the bike had been at least attempted to be stolen, "Anti-Theft Alarm" seems to fit the bill... Can't guarantee it but I mean, seems legit to me. lol
Thanks for your efforts pal much appreciated, that adds up, I'll have a look into see if I can find it the alarm module is available and if its coded to the bike/ecu or if it is just an alarm siren maybe.. strange the wiring is shown as a different colour tho :unsure:
 

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Discussion Starter #39
I've just had a search on Google and it would appear your spot on, im now 99% sure the wires are for an OPTIONAL anti theft alarm so I think I can just forget about that connection.. hopefully anyway lol. I think next step gonna be to wait for the immobiliser bypass to come to see if it cures the Lo reading and let's fuel pump work and in turn allow the bike to run... in the meantime if anyone has any info on the above question about the power commander it would be a big help.
 

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If it does come to it and I need to replace the ecu would it be worth me fitting This ebay Item instead? Are they generally straight forward to fit? Any setting up required or does the autotune box do this for you? Am I right in thinking it should be mapped so the immobiliser is deactivated (incase the immobiliser bypass emulator doesn't work for any reason?) It has two bros racing cans will that make it anymore difficult to set up? Also will there be much difference to the power of the bike?
Sorry for all the questions hopefully someone with some tuning knowledge can help me with this one. Cheers

Unfortunately, that eBay item isn't going to work with your wiring harness. That's a 2012-14 ecu, so you have to get a 2012 harness to go with it (+ some other mods, if you wanna get the full 2014 package). If you're going to be changing ecu and harness, you might as well go with an American set that doesn't need have an immobilizer/ need the immo bypass.

I also wouldn't count on a flash removing the immo function on a euro ecu. You have to ask the seller to confirm what mods were done during the flash.
 
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