Yamaha R1 Forum: YZF-R1 Forums banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone,

I got a 09 R1 with flashed ECU, full titanium Akrapovic exhaust & K&N air filter. For some reason, it stalls when idling cold. When I start it in the morning it needs a bit of throttle otherwise it won't fire. After that, it runs fine for like 30 seconds but when oil regulates (changed the oil yesterday as I thought that might be the problem) it idles poor and eventually stalls. This is only the case when it isn't moving, when idling at like 20 km/h it's fine. But when the first traffic light comes up and I need to stop it stalls. I can keep it from stalling by giving it some throttle but that cant be normal.

I brought it to two Yamaha shops and they are telling me they can't find anything or replacing some parts that won't do the trick. I'm so desperate to have it running well again, any ideas what it could be?

What I did to try to resolve the issue: New oil (5w40 Castrol sc racing 4t), new oil filter (K&N), flushed the coolant and put new in, new spark plugs, new air filter, new lambda or lambdasonde sensor, new camshaft chain tensioner, flashed the ECU, checked the fuel lines. And last I tried diagnostic mode but I did that while having a power commander which I got rid of.

I hope someone can help me, if you have an idea please let me know.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
I have no problem whatsoever when the engine is warm. I may need to add that when I push the starter the engine light blinks, but is off again when it fires up.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,248 Posts
Mine does this too. Been doing it for years every since the OEM O2 sensor was deleted with the flash and the after fuel controller, PCV, was added.

It’s a fueling issue but normal if you deleted the stock O2 sensor with the ECU flash.

However, you said yours stalled at a traffic light. Did you ride off on the bike before it was completely warm and idling on its own?

All in all, you can either tweak the fueling with the fuel controller or just let your bike warm up by helping it a little bit with very little throttle.

And for future reference, nobody should ever get rid of their fuel controller even after an ECU flash because those generic maps are never perfect. You should always keep it and run an Auto Tuner. I made that mistake already years ago and ended up buying another PCV after selling the first one thinking I was good.

Your bike is fine over all. No need to continue to diagnose.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Mine does this too. Been doing it for years every since the OEM O2 sensor was deleted with the flash and the after fuel controller, PCV, was added.

It’s a fueling issue but normal if you deleted the stock O2 sensor with the ECU flash.

However, you said yours stalled at a traffic light. Did you ride off on the bike before it was completely warm and idling on its own?

All in all, you can either tweak the fueling with the fuel controller or just let your bike warm up by helping it a little bit with very little throttle.

And for future reference, nobody should ever get rid of their fuel controller even after an ECU flash because those generic maps are never perfect. You should always keep it and run an Auto Tuner. I made that mistake already years ago and ended up buying another PCV after selling the first one thinking I was good.

Your bike is fine over all. No need to continue to diagnose.
Thanks for the detailed answer. It stalls when I stop at a traffic light or just stop anywhere when the bike is cold, when on temperature it runs & idles perfect. Correct me if I'm wrong; are you saying that there is a chance that it goes away when I reinstall a fuel controller?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,248 Posts
Thanks for the detailed answer. It stalls when I stop at a traffic light or just stop anywhere when the bike is cold, when on temperature it runs & idles perfect. Correct me if I'm wrong; are you saying that there is a chance that it goes away when I reinstall a fuel controller?
If the ECU is flashed back to stock, yes.

However, there’s no need to. Just simply let the bike warm up. It will only do this when the temperature outside is below a certain degree.

It will be fine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Hi everyone,

I got a 09 R1 with flashed ECU, full titanium Akrapovic exhaust & K&N air filter. For some reason, it stalls when idling cold. When I start it in the morning it needs a bit of throttle otherwise it won't fire. After that, it runs fine for like 30 seconds but when oil regulates (changed the oil yesterday as I thought that might be the problem) it idles poor and eventually stalls. This is only the case when it isn't moving, when idling at like 20 km/h it's fine. But when the first traffic light comes up and I need to stop it stalls. I can keep it from stalling by giving it some throttle but that cant be normal.

I brought it to two Yamaha shops and they are telling me they can't find anything or replacing some parts that won't do the trick. I'm so desperate to have it running well again, any ideas what it could be?

What I did to try to resolve the issue: New oil (5w40 Castrol sc racing 4t), new oil filter (K&N), flushed the coolant and put new in, new spark plugs, new air filter, new lambda or lambdasonde sensor, new camshaft chain tensioner, flashed the ECU, checked the fuel lines. And last I tried diagnostic mode but I did that while having a power commander which I got rid of.

I hope someone can help me, if you have an idea please let me know.
Mine was hard to start and getting harder, slow idle and started backfiring when starting.
It then started running on 3, which was caused by a broken valve keeper [never seen that before, luckily it jammed in the spring retainer and didn't drop the valve].
Anyway, 2 inlet valves on 1 cylinder were leaking badly when I tested them, hadn't burned the seats, but weren't sealing too well and a few of the other valves had seepage past the seats when I checked the rest.
It's a pain getting in to do a compression test, but probably well worth it.
I had another head so I've used a couple of the valves out of my old 1 to lap the seats on the replacement. I'm about to go and check if they're sealing now.
Also, I got a Lithium Iron battery to replace the Motobatt that I had. On the recommendation of my Yamaha parts guy who was no fan of the Motobatt.
The L I was heaps better.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Mine was hard to start and getting harder, slow idle and started backfiring when starting.
It then started running on 3, which was caused by a broken valve keeper [never seen that before, luckily it jammed in the spring retainer and didn't drop the valve].
Anyway, 2 inlet valves on 1 cylinder were leaking badly when I tested them, hadn't burned the seats, but weren't sealing too well and a few of the other valves had seepage past the seats when I checked the rest.
It's a pain getting in to do a compression test, but probably well worth it.
I had another head so I've used a couple of the valves out of my old 1 to lap the seats on the replacement. I'm about to go and check if they're sealing now.
Also, I got a Lithium Iron battery to replace the Motobatt that I had. On the recommendation of my Yamaha parts guy who was no fan of the Motobatt.
The L I was heaps better.
Thanks for the tip. I don't think that's it though because it completely goes away when it's warmed up. But I'll keep it in mind if it gets worse.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top