[Ckempf]

Anyone know what Yamaha is recommending on breaking this monster in?

 

[PurpleLion]

The following is not the factory recommended method, but I have found it to work well: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

[Scotman623]

Anyone know what Yamaha is recommending on breaking this monster in?

Not sure but my R1M will be on the track on May 2nd with 0 miles on it, Expert class ass beating breaking!!!

 

[The Governor]

Anyone know what Yamaha is recommending on breaking this monster in?

This has worked and Nettie's good gains for me.
- 0-100 miles = stay below 8000, running it up and down,, no highway. change oil at 100.
- 100-300 miles = "try" to stay below 10000. Running it up and down the rpm range. Change oil at 300
- 300-600 miles = again "try" to stay below 10000,,, maybe spike it up a few times. Running it up and down the rpm range and or on highway. Change oil at 600.
- 600-1000 miles = do not pick on the reunited too much. Ride it like a semi hard Sunday ride. Change the oil at 1000.
- 1000 and on = try to break it. Changing the oil every 2500 miles or every couple race weekends.

BTW,,
I run a special blend from GoPurePower.com. And never run synthetic. Quit that shit a long time ago. Call Purepower and ask them to send you the links as to why. Now if the motor is a 50k'er fine. Lmao

 

[Ckempf]

My dealer, also a close friend, who does trackdays with me, says we can break the motor in on his dyno, seems scary to me. But haven't broke a new motor in since 08

 

[PoorUB]

Just ride the darned thing, and keep varying the RPM. Load the engine, but do not lug it. IMO, you will need to get out on the open road to break it in properly, with a bike that will do darned near 100 MPH in first it will be hard to load the engine in town. Watch the engine temps, short trips, let it cool down in between.

"0-100 miles = stay below 8000, running it up and down,, no highway. change oil at 100"

How do you do this without getting on the highway? 8,000 RPM has to be about 60 MPH!

I like the Mototune break in, just understand the difference between beating on it and loading the engine. After about the first 100 miles about 99% of the beak in is done. I run 'em to about 100 miles, then ride it like I stole it. The absolute worst thing you can do is baby it and idle around town in third gear. I would change the oil and filter at 100 and 500 miles then what ever feels right to you.

 

[The Governor]

2015 engine break-in

Just ride the darned thing, and keep varying the RPM. Load the engine, but do not lug it. IMO, you will need to get out on the open road to break it in properly, with a bike that will do darned near 100 MPH in first it will be hard to load the engine in town. Watch the engine temps, short trips, let it cool down in between.

"0-100 miles = stay below 8000, running it up and down,, no highway. change oil at 100"

How do you do this without getting on the highway? 8,000 RPM has to be about 60 MPH!

I like the Mototune break in, just understand the difference between beating on it and loading the engine. After about the first 100 miles about 99% of the beak in is done. I run 'em to about 100 miles, then ride it like I stole it. The absolute worst thing you can do is baby it and idle around town in third gear. I would change the oil and filter at 100 and 500 miles then what ever feels right to you.

I knew I shouldn't have posted. This topic has always brought out the "pros" lmao.

Sorry brother. Don't mind me.
I only work for a certain company that deals with certain related things. Been through too any bikes and spoke with too many engineers.
The way I indicate has worked great for me and seems to net a better outcome when compared.

Break in:
- Get the shavings out
- Seat the rings

Have nice day.

 

[PoorUB]

I knew I shouldn't have posted. This topic has always brought out the "pros" lmao.

Sorry brother. Don't mind me.
I only work for a certain company that deals with certain related things. Been through too any bikes and spoke with too many engineers.
The way I indicate has worked great for me and seems to net a better outcome when compared.

Break in:
Get the shavings out
Seat the rings

Have nice day.

Sorry to ruffle your feathers, but I have been building engines off and on for over 40 years, I believe I passed amateur status long ago. My experience has been from small engines, snowmobiles, automotive and heavy equipment, 1 HP to 400 HP. i don't don't do engine work professionally any longer, but I am the "go to guy" for many people I know.

I still want to know how you break in a bike in town and run it up to 8,000 RPM legally.

 

[lexanidubs09]

:lol This is a classic debate... Everyone is going to have a different method and someone that tries to prove a method wrong always has been building engines for decades with X amount of certifications and yadda yadda. I've always been told to break it in the way you plan on riding it. Just do what you want. Change the oil FREQUENTLY when breaking it in. That's all I'd say.



There may be a right and wrong way. Until I see a reason to believe otherwise I'll continue to break my engines in the way I plan on using them (Like an asshole)

 

[cyclepsycho7]

The following is not the factory recommended method, but I have found it to work well: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

That's the method I've used on my last 6 bikes and they all performed great.

 

[DanQ]

Ah yes, another internet break in thread. Almost as good as what oil is best or should I use race gas in my stock motor.

Break it in like your warranty depends on it. Unless you can afford to replace the motor shortly after.

 

[Ckempf]

Seems like it's clear as mud! Haha

Someone posted they received their r1m yesterday, seems like they would have their hands on the owners manual and could shed some light!

 

[Milepost Racing]

I'm really lucky to live in the Pacific Northwest. I'll take mine up to Mount Baker taking on as many backroads as I can. BTW I break in my engines exactly as the Governor....

If you use synthetic oil then don't use it till the third oil change and DO NOT ride it at a steady rpm for more than 5 min for the first couple hundred miles.

Track day break in is fine after the first 100 miles. Just keep it under 11,000 rpm on the first track day... Why would I wait till 100 miles before the first track day?? I've never had a new bike (or car) that didn't have leaks , loose parts, and crap that didn't work. Hell, it's going to take you a week of riding alone just to learn how to use all the electronics!

 

[The Governor]

2015 engine break-in

Sorry to ruffle your feathers, but I have been building engines off and on for over 40 years, I believe I passed amateur status long ago. My experience has been from small engines, snowmobiles, automotive and heavy equipment, 1 HP to 400 HP. i don't don't do engine work professionally any longer, but I am the "go to guy" for many people I know.



I still want to know how you break in a bike in town and run it up to 8,000 RPM legally.

No ruffling, haha.

And I'm not screaming accomplishments nor doubting your credibility. Merely stating what others have shared with me and my past experience. I'm sure your way works great for you. Congrats on your accomplishments and fan following.

I can keep it under 8k for a 100 miles easily. I said nothing about the speed or laws. :/

You're not the only one that breaks it in like you stole and nor I the only one to take a slow approach. Both, I'm sure, get the job done. Trust me,,, I'd love to wring its neck right out of the box. But,,,, the way I've done it has worked great for me.

Btw,, (not spitting accomplishments,, just sharing some info)
We did a compression test on engine break in and seating rings. Seating the rings carefully resulted in higher compression numbers.

Again,, I'm not saying blasting out of the box won't break it in. My purpose is more than just "loosening the motor up".

Keep on keeping on. I'm sure you're way is popular for some. Definitely a lot more fun, lmao.

Thanks for sharing

 

[The Governor]

2015 engine break-in

Ah yes, another internet break in thread. Almost as good as what oil is best or should I use race gas in my stock motor.

Break it in like your warranty depends on it. Unless you can afford to replace the motor shortly after.

I know,,, I should not have posted, lmao. I'm shooting in a tournament right now with too much time between targets. (Praying someone in the SE posts they received their R1M) today. Lol

 

[lexanidubs09]

:lol:lol

 

[bacchus40]

Ah yes, another internet break in thread. Almost as good as what oil is best or should I use race gas in my stock motor.

Break it in like your warranty depends on it. Unless you can afford to replace the motor shortly after.

yes i've given up responding to these, yes i have a solid break-in procedure that works!! and no i'm not about to get into it... too much damn typing.. search button your friend :music487:

i love it when the self-described professionals get all up in here telling others how to treat their shit... ohhh the blind leading the blonde.. or vice versa :lol

 

[JohnJohn15]

Christ this topic is tedious.
Yeah, your mechanic had a pink blanket on your bike when he done the pre delivery ride.
Common sense; ride it. Dont valve bounce it, more importantly, dont baby it.

What about those bike owners that have their bikes for sale on the interweb that are 3yrs old and have 3k miles (6k km) on em. With little use id guess some slight rust on the internals, oil acidic.

And this shavings crap. What, 100 miles or 600 miles, you'd think if your FILTER did not catch it at 20, 40, 60, 80, or by 100, there is a certain inability to filter there id guess. And there should be a magnet on the sump plug.

Ride em, enjoy em.

 

[PoorUB]

You're not the only one that breaks it in like you stole and nor I the only one to take a slow approach.

Really your and my break in methods are not that different, I am just willing to beat on it sooner. IMO, after the first few miles the break in is pretty much over, certainly by 100 miles is on the clock. The bulk of the wear and metal fragments are done with probably 25 miles on the clock. Break in wear drops to almost nothing after the first few miles.

 

[PurpleLion]

The primary rationale of the motortune method is that due to modern cylinder wall coatings, the cross hatching that is required to seat the rings is much shallower than it was in the past. Furthermore, he maintains that the hatching is gone by between 25 to 50 miles, hence, his method is all about properly seating the rings IMMEDIATELY. That means loading the piston rings, but without lugging the engine. Difficult to do on the road, since you will obtain the best loading in the higher gears, i.e. 4th thru 6th, which of course means higher speeds. (I did once have the unfortunate experience of trying to explain this to an officer when I was breaking in my 2004 R1 - of course to no avail!).

I have heard that a dyno breakin is also excellent which maakes sense to me assuming that the man on the throttle knows what to do - hard on (pressure on the rings), hard off (clean the cylinder walls), vary the rpms, yada, yada, yada...

For the most part, everyone above agrees with each other. The lifetime of the cross hatching is the question.