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2015 R1 Engine Break-in Procedure

26761 Views 87 Replies 31 Participants Last post by  tobarus
Anyone know what Yamaha is recommending on breaking this monster in?
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Just ride the darned thing, and keep varying the RPM. Load the engine, but do not lug it. IMO, you will need to get out on the open road to break it in properly, with a bike that will do darned near 100 MPH in first it will be hard to load the engine in town. Watch the engine temps, short trips, let it cool down in between.

"0-100 miles = stay below 8000, running it up and down,, no highway. change oil at 100"

How do you do this without getting on the highway? 8,000 RPM has to be about 60 MPH!

I like the Mototune break in, just understand the difference between beating on it and loading the engine. After about the first 100 miles about 99% of the beak in is done. I run 'em to about 100 miles, then ride it like I stole it. The absolute worst thing you can do is baby it and idle around town in third gear. I would change the oil and filter at 100 and 500 miles then what ever feels right to you.
I knew I shouldn't have posted. This topic has always brought out the "pros" lmao.

Sorry brother. Don't mind me.
I only work for a certain company that deals with certain related things. Been through too any bikes and spoke with too many engineers.
The way I indicate has worked great for me and seems to net a better outcome when compared.

Break in:
Get the shavings out
Seat the rings

Have nice day.
Sorry to ruffle your feathers, but I have been building engines off and on for over 40 years, I believe I passed amateur status long ago. My experience has been from small engines, snowmobiles, automotive and heavy equipment, 1 HP to 400 HP. i don't don't do engine work professionally any longer, but I am the "go to guy" for many people I know.

I still want to know how you break in a bike in town and run it up to 8,000 RPM legally.
You're not the only one that breaks it in like you stole and nor I the only one to take a slow approach.

Really your and my break in methods are not that different, I am just willing to beat on it sooner. IMO, after the first few miles the break in is pretty much over, certainly by 100 miles is on the clock. The bulk of the wear and metal fragments are done with probably 25 miles on the clock. Break in wear drops to almost nothing after the first few miles.
For the most part, everyone above agrees with each other. The lifetime of the cross hatching is the question.
The cross hatch in the cylinders never wears away, at least until high miles are met and the engine is worn out. All you are really doing is wearing off the high points. I have torn down engines with 100,000 miles on them and the cross hatch is still obvious.
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