2015 R1 Engine Break-in Procedure

2015 engine break-in

PoorUB said:

Just ride the darned thing, and keep varying the RPM. Load the engine, but do not lug it. IMO, you will need to get out on the open road to break it in properly, with a bike that will do darned near 100 MPH in first it will be hard to load the engine in town. Watch the engine temps, short trips, let it cool down in between.

"0-100 miles = stay below 8000, running it up and down,, no highway. change oil at 100"

How do you do this without getting on the highway? 8,000 RPM has to be about 60 MPH!

I like the Mototune break in, just understand the difference between beating on it and loading the engine. After about the first 100 miles about 99% of the beak in is done. I run 'em to about 100 miles, then ride it like I stole it. The absolute worst thing you can do is baby it and idle around town in third gear. I would change the oil and filter at 100 and 500 miles then what ever feels right to you.

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I knew I shouldn't have posted. This topic has always brought out the "pros" lmao.

Sorry brother. Don't mind me.
I only work for a certain company that deals with certain related things. Been through too any bikes and spoke with too many engineers.
The way I indicate has worked great for me and seems to net a better outcome when compared.

Break in:
- Get the shavings out
- Seat the rings

Have nice day.

2015 engine break-in

PoorUB said:

Sorry to ruffle your feathers, but I have been building engines off and on for over 40 years, I believe I passed amateur status long ago. My experience has been from small engines, snowmobiles, automotive and heavy equipment, 1 HP to 400 HP. i don't don't do engine work professionally any longer, but I am the "go to guy" for many people I know.



I still want to know how you break in a bike in town and run it up to 8,000 RPM legally.

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No ruffling, haha.

And I'm not screaming accomplishments nor doubting your credibility. Merely stating what others have shared with me and my past experience. I'm sure your way works great for you. Congrats on your accomplishments and fan following.

I can keep it under 8k for a 100 miles easily. I said nothing about the speed or laws. :/

You're not the only one that breaks it in like you stole and nor I the only one to take a slow approach. Both, I'm sure, get the job done. Trust me,,, I'd love to wring its neck right out of the box. But,,,, the way I've done it has worked great for me.

Btw,, (not spitting accomplishments,, just sharing some info)
We did a compression test on engine break in and seating rings. Seating the rings carefully resulted in higher compression numbers.

Again,, I'm not saying blasting out of the box won't break it in. My purpose is more than just "loosening the motor up".

Keep on keeping on. I'm sure you're way is popular for some. Definitely a lot more fun, lmao.

Thanks for sharing

(I'm sure I'll regret sharing this, lol)

Oil doesn't really get "filtered" like you think. The PSI release valve on stock oil filters open at 5-7 lbs of PSI.

Before you criticize this:
Cut one open, take the "filter/filament" paper and try to blow air through it. See how much PSI it takes to blow air through the filament. Keeping in mind it only takes 5-7 to make it open.

Oil averages between 7-14 microns in size thanks to the additive packages (zinc, etc..). Thus, oil is large enough to see,,, right? If you cannot blow air through the filament,, what makes you think the Oil (at 7-14 microns) will pass through it? Oil (and the debris/particulates it carries) runs between/across the filament lifts the bypass and keeps on keeping on. What's caught is caught what's naught is naught, lol.

Sorta crazy when you think about it.

Anyway,,
Here's one more thing for the "pro's" to theorize and throw stones at.
I will be draining the stock oil before I even start the bike up. There are silicas and other additives in the stock oil I do not want to burn. I'll actually drain, and fill with Rotella (diesel oil) for the first couple oil changes before switching to the custom blend provided by Purepower.

I'm no chemist nor "professional" engine builder, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express. Well that plus I have access to more engineers, machinist, technicians, and engine builders than I can shake a stick at.

So there you go,,, use it, disagree with it, or don't even read it. Merely sharing.

Enjoy

Roadracer86 said:

Shell Rotella T full synthetic (not the conventional based diesel blend) is one of the best oils on the market. Plenty of oil studies out there that will confirm my statement. I've used that oil in everything from tractors, lawnmowers, dirt bikes, race bikes etc and never had a failure yet. Pay more for the other companies hype and that's what your paying for....hype.

I've always break an engine in on regular conventional based motor oil and then switch to full synthetic after the break in period. 41 years of riding/racing and never a problem.

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html

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Another engineer that blends oils for race teams told me about Rotella. Although he said any synthetic was also just marketing. Long story, but here's the short version.
- Synthetic additives reduce the amount of dinosaur oil. Sort of explained it to me like a cheap filler. It does coat the walls/parts, but this is not wanted on a fresh engine. A loose or aged motor sure.
If you run synthetic and break a motor down to freshen it up, you'll notice some black scaring on the plates or parts. This is said to be the silica sorta burning.

I quit running synthetic, and only run a certain blend now. All of the said scaring has also disappeared. I don't know. I just freshen up my race motors every other year. But I've only been at it for 18 years. I'm sure others have done more.

Rotella has a high zinc count along with other additives and helps the motor last under abuse.

Again a quick comparison
- in the car/motorcycle market, we change conventional oil,,, what???? Every 2500-3000 miles. Maybe push a so called synthetic to 5000. ?
- in a diesel market, they change the filter every un-teen thousand miles and change the oil even less. It's abused, heat, load, torque, HP, constant running, etc.
what's the difference? Are cars just that much more abusive or is the oil the difference?

Look,,, when I first started talking to the oil companies I was blown away too. I was and still am a believer in Motul. Never had a problem. I just took the word and testing of engineers in the market who invented the shit, lmao.

Don't change your habits. If they've worked for you, keep at it. Just don't be afraid to look behind the Oz curtain from time to time.

Every time I change the oil, I still think about Motul, lmao.

At the end of the day, this is just information.

Enjoy

Roadracer86 said:

I'm not looking to debate either but your statement about break in oil is absolute rubbish. That's my only point I'm trying get across.

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My statement of break in oil?

You mean the part where I said "Some do some don't"?
That statement? Jesus, lol.

Look,, I work for a company, that lets say talks to too many other companies across a vast amount of automotive markets. Everything from Diesels to Bycycles. My one little statement about "Some do and some don't", spans across them all. I do not know if VW or Toro is currently starting with a thicker, thinner, or has a special blend to start with. I do know, in the past some companies had a certain viscosity and blend they would start out with (period). Some to today "suggest" a certain weight that people don't follow after their first oil change. For mileage reasons, or break in reasons,,,,,,, I really don't care.

I am honestly beginning to think some of you just like drama or debating.

Again,,, I agree with racer, I agree with Millers. Every experienced rider, builder, shop guy, or whatever has their own practice and opinion. It not wrong, and I'm sure they believe it to be tried and true from their experience. It's not that it's a wrong way if it's not your way. It's just a different way. And I've typed it more than a couple times.
"Stick with what you believe in." Im not on here to sway a vote or pick up fans. Just sharing information I've collected along my path. Sharing info that has worked well for me, gave me piece of mind, and most importantly never violated my warranty, ?.

There are a dozen ways to break in these kick ass machines we get to ride today. The best way is a matter of opinion. Yamaha has built some incredible machines and this is proven by no matter how you break it in,,, it runs awesomely. I mean seriously,,, has anyone posted their break in sucked and tore up the engine, lmao. (If they have I don't care, lol).

Again,, great machines, great forum to read other options, and always a great source for news on our beloved model.

Cheers to you brother.

Looking forward to breaking in my M soon.