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2015 R1 Engine Break-in Procedure

26758 Views 87 Replies 31 Participants Last post by  tobarus
Anyone know what Yamaha is recommending on breaking this monster in?
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Anyone know what Yamaha is recommending on breaking this monster in?

This has worked and Nettie's good gains for me.
- 0-100 miles = stay below 8000, running it up and down,, no highway. change oil at 100.
- 100-300 miles = "try" to stay below 10000. Running it up and down the rpm range. Change oil at 300
- 300-600 miles = again "try" to stay below 10000,,, maybe spike it up a few times. Running it up and down the rpm range and or on highway. Change oil at 600.
- 600-1000 miles = do not pick on the reunited too much. Ride it like a semi hard Sunday ride. Change the oil at 1000.
- 1000 and on = try to break it. Changing the oil every 2500 miles or every couple race weekends.

I run a special blend from GoPurePower.com. And never run synthetic. Quit that shit a long time ago. Call Purepower and ask them to send you the links as to why. Now if the motor is a 50k'er fine. Lmao
2015 engine break-in

Just ride the darned thing, and keep varying the RPM. Load the engine, but do not lug it. IMO, you will need to get out on the open road to break it in properly, with a bike that will do darned near 100 MPH in first it will be hard to load the engine in town. Watch the engine temps, short trips, let it cool down in between.

"0-100 miles = stay below 8000, running it up and down,, no highway. change oil at 100"

How do you do this without getting on the highway? 8,000 RPM has to be about 60 MPH!

I like the Mototune break in, just understand the difference between beating on it and loading the engine. After about the first 100 miles about 99% of the beak in is done. I run 'em to about 100 miles, then ride it like I stole it. The absolute worst thing you can do is baby it and idle around town in third gear. I would change the oil and filter at 100 and 500 miles then what ever feels right to you.

I knew I shouldn't have posted. This topic has always brought out the "pros" lmao.

Sorry brother. Don't mind me.
I only work for a certain company that deals with certain related things. Been through too any bikes and spoke with too many engineers.
The way I indicate has worked great for me and seems to net a better outcome when compared.

Break in:
- Get the shavings out
- Seat the rings

Have nice day.
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2015 engine break-in

Sorry to ruffle your feathers, but I have been building engines off and on for over 40 years, I believe I passed amateur status long ago. My experience has been from small engines, snowmobiles, automotive and heavy equipment, 1 HP to 400 HP. i don't don't do engine work professionally any longer, but I am the "go to guy" for many people I know.

I still want to know how you break in a bike in town and run it up to 8,000 RPM legally.

No ruffling, haha.

And I'm not screaming accomplishments nor doubting your credibility. Merely stating what others have shared with me and my past experience. I'm sure your way works great for you. Congrats on your accomplishments and fan following.

I can keep it under 8k for a 100 miles easily. I said nothing about the speed or laws. :/

You're not the only one that breaks it in like you stole and nor I the only one to take a slow approach. Both, I'm sure, get the job done. Trust me,,, I'd love to wring its neck right out of the box. But,,,, the way I've done it has worked great for me.

Btw,, (not spitting accomplishments,, just sharing some info)
We did a compression test on engine break in and seating rings. Seating the rings carefully resulted in higher compression numbers.

Again,, I'm not saying blasting out of the box won't break it in. My purpose is more than just "loosening the motor up".

Keep on keeping on. I'm sure you're way is popular for some. Definitely a lot more fun, lmao.

Thanks for sharing
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2015 engine break-in

Ah yes, another internet break in thread. Almost as good as what oil is best or should I use race gas in my stock motor.

Break it in like your warranty depends on it. Unless you can afford to replace the motor shortly after.

I know,,, I should not have posted, lmao. I'm shooting in a tournament right now with too much time between targets. (Praying someone in the SE posts they received their R1M) today. Lol
(I'm sure I'll regret sharing this, lol)

Oil doesn't really get "filtered" like you think. The PSI release valve on stock oil filters open at 5-7 lbs of PSI.

Before you criticize this:
Cut one open, take the "filter/filament" paper and try to blow air through it. See how much PSI it takes to blow air through the filament. Keeping in mind it only takes 5-7 to make it open.

Oil averages between 7-14 microns in size thanks to the additive packages (zinc, etc..). Thus, oil is large enough to see,,, right? If you cannot blow air through the filament,, what makes you think the Oil (at 7-14 microns) will pass through it? Oil (and the debris/particulates it carries) runs between/across the filament lifts the bypass and keeps on keeping on. What's caught is caught what's naught is naught, lol.

Sorta crazy when you think about it.

Here's one more thing for the "pro's" to theorize and throw stones at.
I will be draining the stock oil before I even start the bike up. There are silicas and other additives in the stock oil I do not want to burn. I'll actually drain, and fill with Rotella (diesel oil) for the first couple oil changes before switching to the custom blend provided by Purepower.

I'm no chemist nor "professional" engine builder, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express. Well that plus I have access to more engineers, machinist, technicians, and engine builders than I can shake a stick at. :)

So there you go,,, use it, disagree with it, or don't even read it. Merely sharing.

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From the 2015 owner's manual

Some will say this is nonsense.
They will say the engineers who developed these bikes, designed them, tested them, measured and maximized the tolerances in them, do not know the best way to break them in. These same "pro's" will insist you break it on on a Dyno, break it in like you stole it, or break it in like you plan on riding it (which basically says don't break it in at all, lol). (Lmao)

But I sir,, thank you.
Sounds crazy right. Lol.
Just research it little. It's amazing what you can learn after you know it all.
Shell Rotella T full synthetic (not the conventional based diesel blend) is one of the best oils on the market. Plenty of oil studies out there that will confirm my statement. I've used that oil in everything from tractors, lawnmowers, dirt bikes, race bikes etc and never had a failure yet. Pay more for the other companies hype and that's what your paying for....hype.

I've always break an engine in on regular conventional based motor oil and then switch to full synthetic after the break in period. 41 years of riding/racing and never a problem.


Another engineer that blends oils for race teams told me about Rotella. Although he said any synthetic was also just marketing. Long story, but here's the short version.
- Synthetic additives reduce the amount of dinosaur oil. Sort of explained it to me like a cheap filler. It does coat the walls/parts, but this is not wanted on a fresh engine. A loose or aged motor sure.
If you run synthetic and break a motor down to freshen it up, you'll notice some black scaring on the plates or parts. This is said to be the silica sorta burning.

I quit running synthetic, and only run a certain blend now. All of the said scaring has also disappeared. I don't know. I just freshen up my race motors every other year. But I've only been at it for 18 years. I'm sure others have done more.

Rotella has a high zinc count along with other additives and helps the motor last under abuse.

Again a quick comparison
- in the car/motorcycle market, we change conventional oil,,, what???? Every 2500-3000 miles. Maybe push a so called synthetic to 5000. ?
- in a diesel market, they change the filter every un-teen thousand miles and change the oil even less. It's abused, heat, load, torque, HP, constant running, etc.
what's the difference? Are cars just that much more abusive or is the oil the difference?

Look,,, when I first started talking to the oil companies I was blown away too. I was and still am a believer in Motul. Never had a problem. I just took the word and testing of engineers in the market who invented the shit, lmao.

Don't change your habits. If they've worked for you, keep at it. Just don't be afraid to look behind the Oz curtain from time to time.

Every time I change the oil, I still think about Motul, lmao.

At the end of the day, this is just information.

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I have no interest in the arguments on the topic, but I did want to ask about something as it seems you work in the industry vertical.

I've read/heard that new engines ship with particular special additives which assist in the breakin of the engine, and that changing the oil too early would prematurely remove that "break-in oil". What are your thoughts on that? Is that something restricted only to cars?

There was a lawsuit against big oil about "full synthetic" a while back. Actually a couple. I'll find the links and share.

Be aware of synthetic labeling for marketing purposes. "Hey look, my car comes stock with synthetic, must be High Performance". Lmao.
Not saying they are pulling our leg, just saying the additive packages may not be as synthetic as possible.
It's still about costs.

Seriously though.
There is a gentleman in Southern CA I would urge anyone curious about oil and what not to call. He's a super nice guy and a well of knowledge on the subject. He owns a few patents in the market and is a motorcycle fan. He has some fun stories to listen to. But be warned,, he can talk for hours, lol. If you listen long enough, I promise you'll hang up with some good information.

PM me if you want his number.
Honda was the only company using molybdenum disulfide which is their special break in formulation. It's an anti-wear additive that most off shelf oils do not have in either full syn or semi, unless of course it was formulated with the additive. Any oil with moly in it will specify it on the packaging. See below.

Other than Honda....which may have stopped this practice there is no one else that I'm aware of that uses a break in specific formulation.

PS, DO NOT run any oil in a wet clutch motorcycle that has a moly formulation since it will cause the clutch to slip.

We were always told that about the clutches.

You would get along great with Kelly. I'm sure you two would have a lot to share and discuss. I know he actually formulated the race oil for honda racing for a little while.

I'm not debating anything or anyone.
Stick with what has worked for you.
But If you want to know what else is out there,,, always keep an empty cup.

In most countries except Japan and Germany hydro cracked dino oil may be labelled as synthetic when it is, in fact, not synthetic. The suit was brought by Mobil against Castrol when Castrol labelled it's dino oil as synthetic. Mobil lost the suit. Consequently, many people now believe that many formulations of Mobil 1 are no longer synthetic oils.

True synthetic oil uses synthetic base stock (not an additive package as has been erroneously suggested in this thread). Synthetic base stock would be either Group IV PAO or a Group V ester. The new R1 uses a true synthetic mix of group IV and group V.

Erroneously. Haha.
You want to really break down the composition or patty cake over verbiage?

You got me.
I'll tap out. :/

As stated, earlier. Not looking for a debate nor do I want to type out 2 pages of what constitutes synthetic. Use it, its all good enough to serve its purpose.

Stick with what has worked for you.
Let's just worry about when these damn bikes will be in our garages. :)
I'm not looking to debate either but your statement about break in oil is absolute rubbish. That's my only point I'm trying get across.

My statement of break in oil?

You mean the part where I said "Some do some don't"?
That statement? Jesus, lol.

Look,, I work for a company, that lets say talks to too many other companies across a vast amount of automotive markets. Everything from Diesels to Bycycles. My one little statement about "Some do and some don't", spans across them all. I do not know if VW or Toro is currently starting with a thicker, thinner, or has a special blend to start with. I do know, in the past some companies had a certain viscosity and blend they would start out with (period). Some to today "suggest" a certain weight that people don't follow after their first oil change. For mileage reasons, or break in reasons,,,,,,, I really don't care.

I am honestly beginning to think some of you just like drama or debating.

Again,,, I agree with racer, I agree with Millers. Every experienced rider, builder, shop guy, or whatever has their own practice and opinion. It not wrong, and I'm sure they believe it to be tried and true from their experience. It's not that it's a wrong way if it's not your way. It's just a different way. And I've typed it more than a couple times.
"Stick with what you believe in." Im not on here to sway a vote or pick up fans. Just sharing information I've collected along my path. Sharing info that has worked well for me, gave me piece of mind, and most importantly never violated my warranty, ?.

There are a dozen ways to break in these kick ass machines we get to ride today. The best way is a matter of opinion. Yamaha has built some incredible machines and this is proven by no matter how you break it in,,, it runs awesomely. I mean seriously,,, has anyone posted their break in sucked and tore up the engine, lmao. (If they have I don't care, lol).

Again,, great machines, great forum to read other options, and always a great source for news on our beloved model.

Cheers to you brother.

Looking forward to breaking in my M soon.
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