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Bought from a dealership about a year ago and replaced the battery the first month. Though it was odd that the bike had a non OEM battery in it.
Ran into the old owner a couple of months ago at a group ride, tells me he traded it in because it killed two batteries. Now I just got done swapping in the 5th battery. I put the bike on a tender when I'm gone for more than two weeks. I've checked the voltage with a meter on and off it held voltage and amps just fine over 2-week spans. But this was the first time I got to have my meter when it killed over.

Bike wasn't having any trouble starting before.

When it died the voltage on the battery was at 12.9v. seems like it died of a bad cell/internal short, AutoZone's tester wouldn't even try to test it.
even using my booster/jumper it wouldn't even turn on.

Rectifier/regulator is getting normal voltage and I tested the diodes to see if there was any voltage feeding back, there was none.
tested battery ground and the Rectifier/regulator ground, no odd resistance showed.
I did see corrosion buildup on the main 50A fuse so that got swapped out.

I can only guess I'm looking at an overcharging issue here. Either the Rectifier/regulator is not doing its job or the stator is putting out way too much voltage though I feel like that would fry the regulator. Previous owner said he had two dealerships look at it and they couldn't find the issue.
Bikes garage kept and I don't leave the keys in it, the battery was never run down during its life.

Anyone have a similar issue/experience?
Any other suggestions would be great.



Thanks
 

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Stupid question... when you take the key out are you leaving it in the park position or the off position? ❓❔❓❔
 

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Stupid question... when you take the key out are you leaving it in the park position or the off position? ❓❔❓❔
not a stupid question, I am aware of the issue with leaving it in park that's why I mentioned that I never leave the keys in it. I'll elaborate and say I never use the park position just the off.
I guess I'll also mention the ECU was flashed so it has up and down bump shift, another known possible drain issue.

This really isn't a drain issue to a point where the battery can't hold a charge anymore. This is something damaging the cells of the battery to the point they short out.
The regulator should be preventing that.

My next plan is the make the testing harnesses so I can test the voltage while engine running like the service manual shows.
 

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I know on my 17 that the stock battery isn’t very big. In fact it’s the same in their wr450 dirt bike , which tells me it’s probably a weight thing. What battery are you replacing it with? Even a yuasa isnt what it used to be. I put in a shorai and bought their charger as well.
 

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I would say there's a draw going to the point the battery is having a hard time coming back from it. What is the battery reading for voltage after it won't take a charge is it a flat 0 or just low?
 

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I would say there's a draw going to the point the battery is having a hard time coming back from it. What is the battery reading for voltage after it won't take a charge is it a flat 0 or just low?
I mentioned it in the OP. Battery read 12.9V when bike fail to start. That's 100% charge for the battery. Bike had sat for 2 weeks off the tender. Plugging tender in it read that the battery was charged. It's when that battery gets a larger amp draw then the meter that the short presents itself.
Again, battery never had a low charge since placed in the bike.
 

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So it was 12.9 then it wouldn't start all of a sudden. The lights turn on? Tries to crank but won't really? All of a sudden it went from 12.9 to 0? Still shows 12.9 but won't crank? Sorry I'm just having a hard time picturing your exact issue from your description.
 

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So it was 12.9 then it wouldn't start all of a sudden. The lights turn on? Tries to crank but won't really? All of a sudden it went from 12.9 to 0? Still shows 12.9 but won't crank? Sorry I'm just having a hard time picturing your exact issue from your description.
12.9v - light came on but went dark when trying to crack.
4 cycles later still at 12.9v - no lights or display would come on.
Still reading 12.9v Added a jumper pack to battery. Jumper pack goes into protection mode due to short in battery.
Put new battery it started right up, and it was at 12.5v when I bought it.

Didn't get to running tests have to do it next weekend.
 

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Well it's possible a bad connection somewhere like the 50a you were talking about may have overworked the regulator and it could be overcharging them. Very odd on a bike so new.
 

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Well it's possible a bad connection somewhere like the 50a you were talking about may have overworked the regulator and it could be overcharging them. Very odd on a bike so new.
Yes I'm not sure if the corrosion on the 50 amp fuse is a cause or effect. Would have had to be there from the get-go and then no one noticed it till now or it's the effect of a weird voltage issue. I have to keep an eye on the new one.

Pop the top off and Snapped a photo of the corrosion. It was more built up then it thought.
 

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@MinimumJargon I have the same problem, on my 3rd battery in 45 days. I have a 2016 R1S, the only modification I have is a Hindle exhaust, no ECU flash no quick upshift or downshift. Gotten rid of the servomotor cables but the motor is still connected to avoid the check engine light, thats about it. I do take it to the track.

I bought the bike used last year with a stock battery, it worked until start of summer this year. Then toast, got a new battery not OEM with a 2 year warranty, toast in 3 weeks, exchanged for a new one, lasted another 3-4 weeks and toasted again. Going to get it exchanged this weekend. Good thing is the battery is under warranty so I go to the store they test it, confirm it is bad and they give me a new one. I was assuming it was just my luck with bad batteries, but now its becoming a pattern.

Did you find a solution ?
 

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Test your voltage while reving engine to 2,500 . Should be around 14.2 approx . If it’s way higher or lower you have a problem. Static around 12.6 fully charged
 
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