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When I opened my S ecu file it didn't have fueling up high it stopped a couple hundred after redline so did the timing maps. I copied over the settings from my M ecu jus to put something there. The S engine isn't back together yet it's getting cryotreated this week then supposed to go back together just got dine lightening and balancing
 

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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
So, it’s been a little time since the last post. Some of y’all had some projects and other testing. Any updates? Anyone increased redline more on a bone stock motor and live to tell the tale?
 

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Did you try tuning at all? Remove fuel and/or add timing?

My bike holds a power wheelie all the way to 12700 and feels like it could do more....

I have stock cams and valvetrain tho


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My tuner was being careful, I wasn't willing to risk reliability either so I don't believe we played too much with it.

With the amount of times I whack the limiter when I ride I'd rather keep it a little lower lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #69 · (Edited)
Seroiusly ? I ride around in 1st gear at 13200 for hours. I don't like shifting. Joking aside i use it as a limiter.

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I constantly redline my bike ever since after the initial break in. 14000 miles almost now running a solid 12700 rpm mostly all the time. Amsoil metric full synthetic. Ftecu activetune. I ran it at 13200 for like a week initially and got scared and bumped it back down. Didn’t want valve float.

That being said my initial argument-last body styles crossplane has single springs and what I consider to be a inferior valvetrain setup, steel rods, and a 13750 redline....




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I'm dredging up an old thread, apologies, but i just had SBU do a flash on my new R1 S. I have the standard set of goodies: 3/4 exhaust(exup delete of course), Graves smog block offs, filter. They seem to have raised my redline to 13k! I am still a bit nervous about that. Should i be? I RARELY take it to redline but it can happen when you're really getting on it; can't stare at the tach when you're doing triple digits..... I had to disconnect my factory o2s. The power increase is absolutely insane. I had NO idea it would be such a massive difference. Butt dyno says a big jump in the entire band with peak whp maybe 12whp up? A good bit more grunt as well, all throughout the range.
 

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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
I run 12700 all day with just the ftecu map, plus copied some fueling up top if I remember right from the 2016 r1/m, and autotune.

Almost 17000 miles on the bike. Ran it like this for at least 15000 miles....

Before that it was 13200. Lol. But I was scared of the bike back then.
 

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I contacted SuperbikesUnlimited. They told me: "The RPM is safe. The OEM tach reads a touch high as well.".
It runs like a raped ape, i'll say that much! I bet this thing lays down 170 or more on the dyno now. It's so much faster than before
 

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The internet is really difficult to find any info on what limit people are running, 13k seems high to me personally (I have no expertise though)

*I secretly want to up my own from 12.5k but don't dare*
 
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Discussion Starter · #77 ·
All the time. That’s my issue. I want 1000 more rpm for my normal route. I like to gas it hard in turns while I’m out having fun in backroad corners. Tons of black lines thanks to my Road 5 tires. Love those things by the way.
 

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All the time. That’s my issue. I want 1000 more rpm for my normal route. I like to gas it hard in turns while I’m out having fun in backroad corners. Tons of black lines thanks to my Road 5 tires. Love those things by the way.
I'm struggling with the lower limit, I have to take corners in 4th that I want 3rd or I have to change up on the way out of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
I put the factory quickshifter on. That helped a lot.

For me, 2nd gear is my go to gear for “30 mph” turns and 3rd gear is my go to gear for “45 mph” and up. If that makes sense. I click the next gear usually after exit, 9 times out of 10 probably mostly upright, minimal lean.

Hope that helps.
 

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Well well well.

As it turns out, the 2016 r1s cams were used in both the 2015 r1 and r1m. To my knowledge both those bikes have the 14200 rpm redline from the factory.

In addition more good news. The 2017 r1 and r1m use a new dual Valve Spring setup and the cost to purchase all the valve springs, retainers, and the rocker shaft are a fraction or the 2016 parts price. So unless I buy the 2016 valve springs used, I will be switching to the new Valve Spring setup.

That being said, this mod is looking to be relatively easy for me. Since the cams are identical, it should be as simple as just replacing the valve springs and turning up the redline. It was my initial understanding the cam was the limitation (like an fz1) but the cam is identical to the 2015 r1. This is very good news for those of us that want the proper redline.

I am under the impression that there is a difference in the rod weight but not strength. For that reason I plan on running at least the cp3 redline (13750) with just the Valve Spring swap as they have steel rods. Honestly 14100 is probably what I will aim for.

What do you guys think is possible with a dual Valve Spring setup?
Looking to refresh my 2015 R1 and was wondering if there is any issue swapping over to the 2017 valve spring setup? I noticed they changed the part numbers for the 2017 head but 2015 r1 and 2016 r1s used the same part number so wondering if you had any issues. Any help is appreciated.
 
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