Yamaha R1 Forum: YZF-R1 Forums banner
81 - 100 of 110 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
124 Posts
Discussion Starter · #81 ·
Well well well.

As it turns out, the 2016 r1s cams were used in both the 2015 r1 and r1m. To my knowledge both those bikes have the 14200 rpm redline from the factory.

In addition more good news. The 2017 r1 and r1m use a new dual Valve Spring setup and the cost to purchase all the valve springs, retainers, and the rocker shaft are a fraction or the 2016 parts price. So unless I buy the 2016 valve springs used, I will be switching to the new Valve Spring setup.

That being said, this mod is looking to be relatively easy for me. Since the cams are identical, it should be as simple as just replacing the valve springs and turning up the redline. It was my initial understanding the cam was the limitation (like an fz1) but the cam is identical to the 2015 r1. This is very good news for those of us that want the proper redline.

I am under the impression that there is a difference in the rod weight but not strength. For that reason I plan on running at least the cp3 redline (13750) with just the Valve Spring swap as they have steel rods. Honestly 14100 is probably what I will aim for.

What do you guys think is possible with a dual Valve Spring setup?
Looking to refresh my 2015 R1 and was wondering if there is any issue swapping over to the 2017 valve spring setup? I noticed they changed the part numbers for the 2017 head but 2015 r1 and 2016 r1s used the same part number so wondering if you had any issues. Any help is appreciated.
I still haven’t done it but a couple guys on here have.

My parts list was basically just the whole spring setup and rocker shafts.

I also believe I was able to determine there was a slight difference in the cams themselves.

But if you have a 2015 r1, the valve spring should be a direct swap.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,901 Posts
I posted up above about this but reading through the whole thread before posting may not be a thing anymore. To do the valve spring swap you need the 2017 seats, inner spring, outer spring, retainers. Not the clips or rockers or anything else. The S model rockers are the same the shafts they sit on are heavier but dimensionally the same.

I can't tell if buddy said the R1S cams are the same as the other two or the R1's cams are the same as the R1M BUT the R1S cams are different with a different lift. They are not the limiting factor as much as the bottom end.

The bottom end of the S model is where the limits come in. The R1 and R1M have lightened crankshafts substantially lighter then the S model that has full counterweights. The rods are also about 30 grams. There is pictures of both up above. if the balance isn't perfect on those then spinning it faster will decrease the life of the engine.

Also something to consider is the springs, instead of swapping to the 2017, you can for a little bit more swap to the YEC springs but I think they are called GYTR now. I wouldn't call Graves they are expensive as all he'll and there's a wait but through yart you can get them for a decent price and all my GYTR parts through them took 3 days to get here. i dont remember exact prices but I think the 2017 setup was around 650ish and the GYTR is like in the 9's somewhere.

The part for the 2017 head was changed more because of the valve cover. Its a bitch to do valve adjustments you have to take the radiator out to get the valve cover out the front, it won't come out the rear Howard's the airbox like previous gen's so if you look at 17 the head and cover was updated but again internals all dimensionally the same. Everything swaps over.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
125 Posts
I posted up above about this but reading through the whole thread before posting may not be a thing anymore. To do the valve spring swap you need the 2017 seats, inner spring, outer spring, retainers. Not the clips or rockers or anything else. The S model rockers are the same the shafts they sit on are heavier but dimensionally the same.

I can't tell if buddy said the R1S cams are the same as the other two or the R1's cams are the same as the R1M BUT the R1S cams are different with a different lift. They are not the limiting factor as much as the bottom end.

The bottom end of the S model is where the limits come in. The R1 and R1M have lightened crankshafts substantially lighter then the S model that has full counterweights. The rods are also about 30 grams. There is pictures of both up above. if the balance isn't perfect on those then spinning it faster will decrease the life of the engine.

Also something to consider is the springs, instead of swapping to the 2017, you can for a little bit more swap to the YEC springs but I think they are called GYTR now. I wouldn't call Graves they are expensive as all he'll and there's a wait but through yart you can get them for a decent price and all my GYTR parts through them took 3 days to get here. i dont remember exact prices but I think the 2017 setup was around 650ish and the GYTR is like in the 9's somewhere.

The part for the 2017 head was changed more because of the valve cover. Its a bitch to do valve adjustments you have to take the radiator out to get the valve cover out the front, it won't come out the rear Howard's the airbox like previous gen's so if you look at 17 the head and cover was updated but again internals all dimensionally the same. Everything swaps over.
Thanks for the reply. I read the thread but didn’t get exactly what I was asking out of it, probably my misunderstanding. My bad. Do you know if a 15 cover fits the 17 head? I found a head with low miles that I may use instead of buying the parts as it’s substanitially cheaper to go that route.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,901 Posts
no, the valve cover change was the main reason for the head redesign so they need to be matched for 2017. lots of guys part motors on eBay so you can probably find a cover cheap or ask the guy selling the head if he has it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
124 Posts
Discussion Starter · #85 ·
My motor has almost 18000 miles on it now. I bumped the redline to 12700 I think all the way back at 600 miles. This baby still runs perfectly. I just want like 14000 rpm and I would be happy. I am constantly at the top of the rev range.

That being said, my transmission does feel a little notchy lately. I have had the stock quick shifter since about 600 miles and literally never use the clutch, even for downshifts about half the time. I have trouble getting to neutral at stoplights fairly often now and everything just feels a little notchier than before unless I’m full throttle shifting.

I also wish I had the new LIF control.

Just some thoughts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
83 Posts
My motor has almost 18000 miles on it now. I bumped the redline to 12700 I think all the way back at 600 miles. This baby still runs perfectly. I just want like 14000 rpm and I would be happy. I am constantly at the top of the rev range.

That being said, my transmission does feel a little notchy lately. I have had the stock quick shifter since about 600 miles and literally never use the clutch, even for downshifts about half the time. I have trouble getting to neutral at stoplights fairly often now and everything just feels a little notchier than before unless I’m full throttle shifting.

I also wish I had the new LIF control.

Just some thoughts.
Check chain tension for the gear shifts, I tend to go slightly tighter and it shifts much smoother.

My redline is 12500, seems fine with it when dyno testing. New 520 conversion made a world of difference to how smooth the engine feels.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
124 Posts
Discussion Starter · #87 ·
My motor has almost 18000 miles on it now. I bumped the redline to 12700 I think all the way back at 600 miles. This baby still runs perfectly. I just want like 14000 rpm and I would be happy. I am constantly at the top of the rev range.

That being said, my transmission does feel a little notchy lately. I have had the stock quick shifter since about 600 miles and literally never use the clutch, even for downshifts about half the time. I have trouble getting to neutral at stoplights fairly often now and everything just feels a little notchier than before unless I’m full throttle shifting.

I also wish I had the new LIF control.

Just some thoughts.
Check chain tension for the gear shifts, I tend to go slightly tighter and it shifts much smoother.

My redline is 12500, seems fine with it when dyno testing. New 520 conversion made a world of difference to how smooth the engine feels.
Good idea. I haven’t adjusted my chain in a bit. I used to do it religiously until the last couple months....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
124 Posts
Discussion Starter · #88 ·
Hey guys.

What exactly is the difference between the R1S and the r1 rocker shafts?

I have a hard time believing the shafts themselves will cause any issues if I try to bump up the redline to 13500+ after doing the dual valve spring update.

Any thoughts????
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,901 Posts
Hey guys.

What exactly is the difference between the R1S and the r1 rocker shafts?

I have a hard time believing the shafts themselves will cause any issues if I try to bump up the redline to 13500+ after doing the dual valve spring update.

Any thoughts????
dimensionally there is no difference they both work in either head and the rocker arms are the same. the difference is....the R1 shafts are lighter. the rockers just pivot not them made no difference when i had them out side by side.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
124 Posts
Discussion Starter · #91 ·
Hey guys.

What exactly is the difference between the R1S and the r1 rocker shafts?

I have a hard time believing the shafts themselves will cause any issues if I try to bump up the redline to 13500+ after doing the dual valve spring update.

Any thoughts????
dimensionally there is no difference they both work in either head and the rocker arms are the same. the difference is....the R1 shafts are lighter. the rockers just pivot not them made no difference when i had them out side by side.
I guess my new question is why the hell would they engineer (slightly) heavier rocker shafts?

What happens if I use the r1s ones in my build? Are they a different material? Is it for heat dissipation and lubrication at high heat/high rpm?

Btw, fun test. I actually priced the differences between the two engines. Funny thing is some of the “downgraded” components cost more. What’s up with that?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,901 Posts
I guess my new question is why the hell would they engineer (slightly) heavier rocker shafts?

What happens if I use the r1s ones in my build? Are they a different material? Is it for heat dissipation and lubrication at high heat/high rpm?

Btw, fun test. I actually priced the differences between the two engines. Funny thing is some of the “downgraded” components cost more. What’s up with that?
It's the same part but they took extra time and hollowed out the R1 and R1M rocker shafts. Same material same dimensions.
Reviving an old thread here. Has anyone revisited the redline topic and successfully run 13-13.5k??? With proper tune of course.
At the time this original thread was made this had already been accomplished. The cam shafts are different and the S doesn't breathe quite the same up top. You need a tune with the increase.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
124 Posts
Discussion Starter · #94 ·
After 22000 miles at 12700 rpm redline, my bike is still running perfectly with zero internal modifications.

Somewhere down the line I will probably just buy a 2015 or 2016 motor from a wrecker. Either that or I will build my own.

My goal was to do something by 20000 miles which has come and gone.

The problem that I have with buying a used motor is that I have owned this bike since brand new and know it’s full history.

This is why I wanted to build the motor....

I guess to recap, I’m still considering the dual valve spring setup with no other modifications and bumping the redline to about 13200.

I have a 520 -1/+2 kit ready to go and I want a little of the speed per gears back.

I got sucked into a bmw (car) project again so I just ride this thing like I stole it whenever I can and keep it fresh.

I want to get spark plugs soon.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,901 Posts
Gaskets, seals, bearings are over a thousand dollars to rebuild. Not worth it. Buy a used motor and save yours just in case something happens down the line. Buy one our of any newer R1 2017+ and they pop right in
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
The internet is really difficult to find any info on what limit people are running, 13k seems high to me personally (I have no expertise though)

I secretly want to up my own from 12.5k but don't dare
if your still wondering my 2016 r1s has been at 12700rpms since first oil changed 3/4 exhaust block off plates race filter am waiting to re-gear the bike my full Austin racing exhaust a better filter then am taking it to get tuned again all the way to 32000rpms right nnow i hit 180 on my r1S tuned by attack performances
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
After 22000 miles at 12700 rpm redline, my bike is still running perfectly with zero internal modifications.

Somewhere down the line I will probably just buy a 2015 or 2016 motor from a wrecker. Either that or I will build my own.

My goal was to do something by 20000 miles which has come and gone.

The problem that I have with buying a used motor is that I have owned this bike since brand new and know it’s full history.

This is why I wanted to build the motor....

I guess to recap, I’m still considering the dual valve spring setup with no other modifications and bumping the redline to about 13200.

I have a 520 -1/+2 kit ready to go and I want a little of the speed per gears back.

I got sucked into a bmw (car) project again so I just ride this thing like I stole it whenever I can and keep it fresh.

I want to get spark plugs soon.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
did you get a sprocket for the 2014 r1 to use on the 2016 r1s? having difficulties trying to find a 40t sprocket
 
81 - 100 of 110 Posts
Top