Yamaha R1 Forum: YZF-R1 Forums banner
101 - 110 of 110 Posts

·
kickin' at the darkness
Joined
·
10,311 Posts
With the cost you may have been better off just buying a base R1 I think.
hell time spent updating and arguing on a bloody forum would have been better spent riding.

i'll never understand why people do this to themselves.. there is nothing to be gained from
proving it can be done. Wasnt there a thread on here a while back where a rider had purchased
a crankshaft which they thought was a base R1 crankshaft, which turned out to be from an R1s?

I may be wrong but if memory serves me they bit the bullet and had the crank lightened to match an R1.
 

·
SuperbikeUnlimited.com
Joined
·
2,609 Posts
hell time spent updating and arguing on a bloody forum would have been better spent riding.

i'll never understand why people do this to themselves.. there is nothing to be gained from
proving it can be done. Wasnt there a thread on here a while back where a rider had purchased
a crankshaft which they thought was a base R1 crankshaft, which turned out to be from an R1s?

I may be wrong but if memory serves me they bit the bullet and had the crank lightened to match an R1.
That's correct. He made youtube vids of the mishap and fix...

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 

·
kickin' at the darkness
Joined
·
10,311 Posts
That's correct. He made youtube vids of the mishap and fix...
thats what i thought, the counter balancer bits from an R1 would not play nice with an R1s crank.

its a xplane engine, everything has been designed to work together.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 2muchbluE

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
As someone who recently bought a 16 R1s and has been disappointed at the early redline of the S model in comparison to the monster redline that was on my R6, I read through this threat and am sad that there isn't a better way to go about this. I'll likely be focusing on a 3/4 system upgrade with an ECU flash firstly. I can see where I'm at from there.

However, I also picked my R1S up for only $8,500, with only 4,500 miles on it. Which was a nutty deal. So, something like this would be relatively affordable, but I think I'd rather put the money towards performance elsewhere.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
I bought a wrecked 2016 R1S to rebuild it from the engine up as a race bike for next season and give me a winter project while I’m off the track. I pretty much bought it for the engine only. I can attest if you go down this route to try to turn it into an R1/M engine it isn’t cheap.

1. Connecting rods need to be swapped. $1600 for OEM or go with carillos.
2.Crankshafts are different but barely different. The actual weight difference is very small, about 2 pounds and you can see the difference on one of the counter weights. Picked up an R1 crank in great condition off eBay.
3. I sent the head off to Danos for race work and cams so that was going to cost me either way. ($4,000)
4. All the bolts, gaskets, o-rings, bearings, and piston rings add up. Think I’m somewhere around $1,500 in with all of those parts.
5. cylinder hone will probably cost a couple hundred bucks too. Talked to a few dealers and they confirmed the plated cylinders can take a light 1 time hone.

This is going to be an awesome race bike when it’s done though. K-tech forks and shock, full Brembo brakes, suter swingarm, woolich electronics, upgraded velocity stacks, lightweight wheels, and titanium bolts wherever I can put them. Trying to tip the scale right at minimum weight.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,901 Posts
I wouldn't bother with the titanium rods. Call Carillo for a set of theirs. You can also lighten the S crank, it isn't weaker then the other crank it's just fully counter weighted and this has been a long debated subject how a lot of people like the heavier cranks for racing because it dampens the engine firing and doesn't let it break loose so easily, better drive out of the corners. If the electronics are good enough though I guess that won't matter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Weighed the R1S crank and the R1 crank. 19.8 Lbs for the R1S, 17.6 for the R1.

R1S connecting rod with bolts = 334g
R1 connecting rods with bolts = 275g

Carillo rods are like 290g, wish I would have bought those instead. Maybe after another season or 2 I will.
 
101 - 110 of 110 Posts
Top