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Has anyone had any problem with doing track days with the new R1 and the brake fade so bad they almost collapse too the bar,let it cool and came back,is anyone experiencing air in these bikes brakes, without touching them
 

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No—I get some fade, but usually hold up for a 20-30 min session. I’m on a 2015 R1M, but it should be the same set up. You do want to swap out the stock pads though.


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Discussion Starter #3
No—I get some fade, but usually hold up for a 20-30 min session. I’m on a 2015 R1M, but it should be the same set up. You do want to swap out the stock pads though.


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I've got Road Race pads coming and I'm going to flush the fluid
 

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kickin' at the darkness
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RBF 660 when you swap those pads out.. i would say specially in the track heat, you'll be much happier..
 

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Happened on the front straight last week. Complete brake fade and pumping didnt help. Brakes finally came back when putting off to the side coming in.

The front wheel had some drag and wasnt spinning freely. I think it was causing some it to heat up lap after lap. Im gonna rebuild the calipers and set of new pads.
 

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Calipers and master isn't mad on these bikes but the pads suck and the rotors aren't meant for the track they are quite thin so they get over heated quickly especially once you put on new pads. A good fluid will fix your issue your having with fade BUT the higher the temperature rating on the fluid the faster it absorbs water so more maintenance is required.
 

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i find that once the pads get worn past 1/3, they will start having uneven wear.
example the leading edge of the pad will be a different thickness to the trailing edge. so the pad is not sitting square anymore. this causes all kinds of issue such as excessive pad drag, which heats up the calipers more than usual etc.
 

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throw away the OEM pads, flush out all the OEM brake fluid replacing it with RBF 600 - leave everything else in place.
I race it in this configuration since 2 years now and i am battling for the podium every race - no fade, no ABS intrusion.
Body position while braking and loading the front are the key.

Forget about any expensive stuff,change pads and fluid.
 

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kickin' at the darkness
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throw away the OEM pads, flush out all the OEM brake fluid replacing it with RBF 600 - leave everything else in place.
thats pretty much what i did the 1st year i owned my 09.. i see i posted RBF660 above.
the 600 doesnt have as high a 'dry boiling temp' rating as 660 Factory line, i think i bought it
on special 'cause they were out of 600 a while back.. no biggie, better than oem fer sure.

i picked up Hel SS lines and Galfer Waves afterward 'cause i got a deal i couldn't pass on.
Thats pretty much how i make all of these decisions, if the out of pocket directly leads
to results and smiles per miles i dont think of 'em as expensive bits.. they're just fun upgrades at that point. I dont like to think in absolutes, the toys are in my garage for a reason.

I do think overall as far as feel though the MC was one of the best investments $ for $..

but its down to personal preference, same with the Waves.. If i
keep the Raider it will get the same bits, yeh its just a cruiser. lol :D
 

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kickin' at the darkness
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i'll toss up another bit here.. been watching review videos of the 2018 R1M from release date
and early press exposure. it seems even the test rider noticed the brake fade, he mentioned it
to one of the Yamaha techs and the dude nodded with confidence..

Yes, they fade, yes its 'normal' was the response.. [email protected]!
 
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