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Discussion Starter #1
hey guys so running into a stupid problem with this damn bike and have troubleshooted everything I can so I need help! I have a 2018 r1 with the sbu flash, Graves blockoff plates, abs delete plus from ftecu, brembo master cylinder and 3/4 akra gp pipe. I did all the work myself and all connectors are connected firmly and in place. So after i did all these upgrades I did a few track days no issues bike ran great then all of a sudden I felt like going for a weekend ride as I'm crusing down the highway at 80mph I try to downshift with the autoblipper and look down and notice the sc light is on the dash reads tcs off and scs off. I pull over and stop restart the bike everything goes back to normal and everything works fine 15-20 miles later does the same thing.. weird part is when I get to my favorite backroad which has a few good bumps and when I turn up the speed and the road goes for about 20-30 miles everything stays on... EVEN THROUGH ALL THE BUMPS EVERYTHING WORKS FINE. But as soon as I get back on the highway everything turns off... I didnt buy this bike to have these stupid issues?????
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have replied to your post on my discussion. Hopefully it fixes the problem for you also.
thankyou for the advice! i checked that wire and everything seemed to be fine but turns out the issue came from somewhere else. these bikes and their electronicso_O
 

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thankyou for the advice! i checked that wire and everything seemed to be fine but turns out the issue came from somewhere else. these bikes and their electronicso_O
thankyou for the advice! i checked that wire and everything seemed to be fine but turns out the issue came from somewhere else. these bikes and their electronicso_O
What was the cause of the problem? I have a friend who's having the same problem after going down on the track.
 

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What was the cause of the problem? I have a friend who's having the same problem after going down on the track.
My solution was the rear tire rotation cable housing was destroyed. It pinched the cable. If abs and all electronics fail come to find out it's likely the rotation sensor or ecu code.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
What was the cause of the problem? I have a friend who's having the same problem after going down on the track.
sorry for taking so long to reply... i still haven't managed to fix it.. I've replaced both speed sensing wires and bought an obd2 scanner to plug into the bike. hopefully when this happens again i can ride it back home plug it in and diagnose what is wrong. ill post pictures of what my scanner reads when i get around to it
 

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Ecu reflash. Might want to attempt that. I did this as a fail safe. The reason all electronics turn off is because of rear rotation sensor module. Especially on the 2017+ r1 (I believe)(The new changes to the bike that don't allow tft displayed error checks). If you have the bike on stand with rear tire rotation without the front tire also rotating same time it will throw a code.

Another test is buying a speedo healer it will override the rear rotation sensor fail.

Hope these work. Lemme know

-T
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ecu reflash. Might want to attempt that. I did this as a fail safe. The reason all electronics turn off is because of rear rotation sensor module. Especially on the 2017+ r1 (I believe)(The new changes to the bike that don't allow tft displayed error checks). If you have the bike on stand with rear tire rotation without the front tire also rotating same time it will throw a code.

Another test is buying a speedo healer it will override the rear rotation sensor fail.

Hope these work. Lemme know

-T
ill double check. I called SBU and they told me the ECU flash wouldn't effect any of the IMU readings/sensors that flash mostly for removing stock restrictions and fuel cutoffs and turning your fuel up to make better power. Basically the IMU needs wheel speed data to work properly and the mechanics at SBU and Attack performance said it can be 3 things. A. The wheel sensing wires. B. The FTecu not working properly or not fully seated. or C. the little plates mounted on your rim could be chipped or bent etc. from mounting and remounting your wheels which i do alot due to switching from street tires to slicks all the time. Weird thing is when the bike fires up and i ride it for a bit shes fine and ive done at least 3-4 track days like this and it hasn't given me any issues until i decided to take it on a weekend ride:( ill finally have some good weather here tomorrow and some time to mess around with it and see if i can narrow down what it is and will post results on this thread.
 

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ill double check. I called SBU and they told me the ECU flash wouldn't effect any of the IMU readings/sensors that flash mostly for removing stock restrictions and fuel cutoffs and turning your fuel up to make better power. Basically the IMU needs wheel speed data to work properly and the mechanics at SBU and Attack performance said it can be 3 things. A. The wheel sensing wires. B. The FTecu not working properly or not fully seated. or C. the little plates mounted on your rim could be chipped or bent etc. from mounting and remounting your wheels which i do alot due to switching from street tires to slicks all the time. Weird thing is when the bike fires up and i ride it for a bit shes fine and ive done at least 3-4 track days like this and it hasn't given me any issues until i decided to take it on a weekend ride:( ill finally have some good weather here tomorrow and some time to mess around with it and see if i can narrow down what it is and will post results on this thread.
Oh ya no doubt. The reflash was just a dummy check for codes to reset. That's what they ended up telling me also. Luckily it was the crushed wire for God knows what. Hopefully, it works for you in the end. Sounds like since yours is after hard riding it's something knocking loose. Mine was fine at start until 5mph then it would shutoff. Narrowing mine down to the wheel sensor.
 
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