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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, I've recently bought a 2018 R1. I read in the owners manual that you can quick shift anytime the up shift indicator is highlighted green and above around 2500 rpm.
It seems that when I try to quick shift with open throttle at anytime, any rpm the shifter would not budge at all. I tried lifting the shifter up so hard that it actually hurt my toes lol.
The quick shifter would only work when I close my throttle and open it literally 1%.... which I don't think is normal? Same thing with auto blipping down shift, I would have to open my throttle 1% for me to down shift, I cannot down shift when I close my throttle all the way. All of this only applies to quick shifting up/down, normal shifting works fine. Does anyone have any idea what the issue is? Thank you guys in advance.
 

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Possibly an issue if someone did a flash/tune, scary buying a used bike at times not knowing who did what to it lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Possibly an issue if someone did a flash/tune, scary buying a used bike at times not knowing who did what to it lol
That's what I was thinking too, the down shift auto blip only works at a certain throttle positioning... so that makes me think its something with the ECU or flash.
 

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Autoblip should only work with the throttle closed. It sounds like the shifter isn't activated. Make sure it's turned on in the settings and if it is then look at the wiring coming off of it make sure its plugged in all the way. If it is then you will have to get a multimeter and put it to the beep setting and check continuity when you push up on the gear shift to make sure the sensor isn't faulty
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Autoblip should only work with the throttle closed. It sounds like the shifter isn't activated. Make sure it's turned on in the settings and if it is then look at the wiring coming off of it make sure its plugged in all the way. If it is then you will have to get a multimeter and put it to the beep setting and check continuity when you push up on the gear shift to make sure the sensor isn't faulty
I've just bought the bike yesterday, I still need to visit my shop to grab some tools. I do not work on bikes so I still have to do some research, the auto down blipping works at a certain position means the sensor is somewhat working, I highly doubt I will find an open circuit with the shift sensor but I will check.
 

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www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/yam/5aba753b87a86612183a0bfa/shift-shaft
Does 27 spit a code? If yes and is not set, then it's not it. Disconnect to set code to see if the dash changes to flashing someplace or holds a light on steady... might be a dash light out showing it?

Repeat as if you walked up to a strange bike with lots of telemetry:
Scenario 1 ~ I have no clue if the shift sensor will code on the dash, so a disconnect is to see if breaking the loop sets a code. It says the sensor is not in need of replacing because it shows it's within spec not to set code.
Scenario 2 ~ There are no codes in the shop manual showing a failed shift sensor. It just states an ohms range to fall within and those numbers call if the shifter is out of spec, meter wise... not dash wise showing the same out of spec.. if it could code.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/yam/5aba753b87a86612183a0bfa/shift-shaft
Does 27 spit a code? If yes and is not set, then it's not it. Disconnect to set code to see if the dash changes to flashing someplace or holds a light on steady... might be a dash light out showing it?

Repeat as if you walked up to a strange bike with lots of telemetry:
Scenario 1 ~ I have no clue if the shift sensor will code on the dash, so a disconnect is to see if breaking the loop sets a code. It says the sensor is not in need of replacing because it shows it's within spec not to set code.
Scenario 2 ~ There are no codes in the shop manual showing a failed shift sensor. It just states an ohms range to fall within and those numbers call if the shifter is out of spec, meter wise... not dash wise showing the same out of spec.. if it could code.
I don't quite understand this comment, but I disconnected the quick shifter connector, it gives me a warning on the dash and a wrench icon on the top center of the dash. That means that the connection of the harness is ok. The quick shifter component gave me 12.XX ohms steady, but when I try to activate the sensor nothing happens the ohms stays the same. I think I will start with a new sensor, if the sensor is like a resistor, opening the circuit = in this situation shifting up/down would tell the ECU that its trying to quick shift.
 

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I disconnected the quick shifter connector
Basic computer bike speaking to you from the dash. There are only 3 variables why the dash codes:
1. If you saw the wire out of the connector = Codes the wrench icon is this example.
2. If you did exactly what you did is... connector not connected, there goes the same spit out is the wrench icon.
3. If your sensor was... 'out of spec' ... 'short to ground' ... wire cut in the plastic but the plastic is still together is back to that one wire out of the connector. And that means full circle to the same exact code to that sensor. A shift light was probably used then the wrench. Say if you took the tank off, fuel bar might blink... I know you see it. Where is the confusion if it only works one way?

... it gives me a warning on the dash... That means that the connection of the harness is ok.
And #3 in the diagnosis. It's within spec or spits the code.

The quick shifter component gave me 12.XX ohms steady, but when I try to activate the sensor nothing happens the ohms stays the same.
More than once have I heard some sensor was within spec but a new part solved it.

I think I will start with a new sensor
Better if you had someone go out and ohm the same part and see if they match your same findings. I just don't have one in front of me or I'd see for myself.

... if the sensor is like a resistor, opening the circuit = in this situation shifting up/down would tell the ICU that its trying to quick shift.
Think about it, you repeated to me the same thing I said to you. Where is the confusion? Back to 12.XX... ready? My take on it is:
a. Note how we for argument sake; 12.XX is what the ICU is reading now as a ping back and forth... within spec... no code.
b. Now you shift and it remains 12.XX. See how the ICU sees you have the right spec, but where is the other signal once you shift.
c. ICU only sees the right spec as if no shift has occurred, to waiting for a shift. Short of someone heading out with an unplug and a stab the shifter... you're stuck throwing the dice for a new one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Think about it, you repeated to me the same thing I said to you. Where is the confusion? Back to 12.XX... ready? My take on it is:
a. Note how we for argument sake; 12.XX is what the ICU is reading now as a ping back and forth... within spec... no code.
b. Now you shift and it remains 12.XX. See how the ICU sees you have the right spec, but where is the other signal once you shift.
c. ICU only sees the right spec as if no shift has occurred, to waiting for a shift. Short of someone heading out with an unplug and a stab the shifter... you're stuck throwing the dice for a new one.
I know you're trying to help but its hard to understand your grammar, I already bought a new sensor I will let you know if it fixes the problem. Thanks!
 

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Hello, I've recently bought a 2018 R1. I read in the owners manual that you can quick shift anytime the up shift indicator is highlighted green and above around 2500 rpm.
It seems that when I try to quick shift with open throttle at anytime, any rpm the shifter would not budge at all. I tried lifting the shifter up so hard that it actually hurt my toes lol.
The quick shifter would only work when I close my throttle and open it literally 1%.... which I don't think is normal? Same thing with auto blipping down shift, I would have to open my throttle 1% for me to down shift, I cannot down shift when I close my throttle all the way. All of this only applies to quick shifting up/down, normal shifting works fine. Does anyone have any idea what the issue is? Thank you guys in advance.
First- I assume it had a stock shift sensor already installed on shifter-shaft, or was it aftermarket?? I just installed a Flash tune autoblipper kit (single sensor, push & pull) on my 2018 R1S, that did not come w/ the stock sensor installed (however, the stock harness was there) . I had previously flashed the ECU w/ a FT set for my M4 exhaust (turned this bike into strictly track), but had to go back & ‘enable’ the QQS & auto blipper functions & reflash the ECU.
Second- any way to determine/ find out if the ECU was previously mapped/ flashed? If no stock shift sensor was installed I believe you must enable both functions (QS/ blipper) in the ECU, even if you enable in the YRC display settings (I was also able to change QSS to 1 or 2 setting from off, however, no original sensor & ‘disabled’ settings in ECU prevented from using). Someone can correct me if wrong. Hope this gave some insight?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
First- I assume it had a stock shift sensor already installed on shifter-shaft, or was it aftermarket?? I just installed a Flash tune autoblipper kit (single sensor, push & pull) on my 2018 R1S, that did not come w/ the stock sensor installed (however, the stock harness was there) . I had previously flashed the ECU w/ a FT set for my M4 exhaust (turned this bike into strictly track), but had to go back & ‘enable’ the QQS & auto blipper functions & reflash the ECU.
Second- any way to determine/ find out if the ECU was previously mapped/ flashed? If no stock shift sensor was installed I believe you must enable both functions (QS/ blipper) in the ECU, even if you enable in the YRC display settings (I was also able to change QSS to 1 or 2 setting from off, however, no original sensor & ‘disabled’ settings in ECU prevented from using). Someone can correct me if wrong. Hope this gave some insight?
The sensor I currently have is stock, I have to start with the most probable cause which is the sensor at this time. Next step would to be check ECU/Tune. Sensor should get here by the 8th... So I will check back.
 

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The sensor I currently have is stock, I have to start with the most probable cause which is the sensor at this time. Next step would to be check ECU/Tune. Sensor should get here by the 8th... So I will check back.
I guarantee it is your sensor. I have an '18 R1 track bike, bought new, and modified for track use only. I have had the stinky sensor go out on me three times. I was looking to get the translogic sensor for the stock set up, but they are out of stock! I am stuck with the another stock sensor, which will probably go out soon after it is installed.
 
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