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Discussion Starter #1
I've recently decided I wanted to get aftermarket rearsets for my R1M, but ran into the issue with the brackets lining up. The R1M currently has a Type R exhaust from Graves on it (the one with the butterfly valve). The exhaust mated up to the stock foot controls without any fitment issues. I did not have to fabricate any brackets or replace any of the stock hardware. Does anyone have any suggestions on which rearsets to get or if there's going to be any fitment issues with any specific rearset? I'm mainly looking for adjustability and was eyeballing Lightech R (colors don't match though) or Attack, but I'm open to suggestions.
 

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Attack Performance rearsets. Comes with everything you need, they look amazing and have flawless actuation. Here's a pic with my Graves 3/4 system. You can see the link between the rearset and the exhaust hanger.

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Most rearsets don’t come with an exhaust/rearset bracket, but evol does. I have attacks and love them. Gilles bolts are soft and strip. Another good brand is woodcraft but you need to order the standard or GP shift model and can’t flip. If I were to do it again, evol because of the nice exhaust bracket included, and they are awesome regardless.


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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for all your input guys. I'll throw up a picture of the exhaust bracket that's on the Graves Exhaust in the morning. It's fixed to the actual can itself. Not sure if that changes any of the suggestions. I have a bit of STG bucks sitting around from me doing a wad of Black Friday shopping with them, so I'll likely be going with one that's available from them. I had wanted to go Gilles, but the blue doesn't match the rest of the blue on the bike. I'll most likely be purchasing these around the Christmas timeframe.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
My Graves looks a lot cleaner. Which and when did you buy your Graves setup? I bought mine in 2015 when Graves first came out with them.
I bought my Graves Type-R exhaust in 2019 from their location in Van Nuys. I think I got it some time in April or May of this year? They allowed me to customize the can, so I opted for a 200mm carbon fiber can. I kind of regret the burn marks on the carbon fiber now (not sure if it's due to the length of the can), but what's done is done.
 

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There's browning towards the back side of the carbon fiber near where the pipe terminates (carbon end cap). It's pretty minimal right now, but I'm guessing it'll eventually get worse with time. I don't think it has anything to do with the tune specifically. I have block off plates, the FTEcu map is built for this exhaust, and I have an active tune wideband on there as well. I think it's from the backfiring that goes on whenever I cut the throttle and coast in gear. Pardon the dirty wheel.
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Gian11
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I've recently decided I wanted to get aftermarket rearsets for my R1M, but ran into the issue with the brackets lining up. The R1M currently has a Type R exhaust from Graves on it (the one with the butterfly valve). The exhaust mated up to the stock foot controls without any fitment issues. I did not have to fabricate any brackets or replace any of the stock hardware. Does anyone have any suggestions on which rearsets to get or if there's going to be any fitment issues with any specific rearset? I'm mainly looking for adjustability and was eyeballing Lightech R (colors don't match though) or Attack, but I'm open to suggestions.
if you used the stock bracket to mount the exhaust then any rearset that uses it will fit as well. Usually the ones that don´t will bring their own bracket.
There are so many brand of rearsets out there that everyone is gonna have a favorite.

I personally started on lightech R rearsets which were fine until I started racing withthem.. the carbon heel guards are useless as I kept breaking them with my heel. Had to switch them to the magnesium ones that come on the cheaper version rearsets of lightech.
I moved on to YART rearsets now and I like them better. Grip on the pegs is MUCH higher which is great for racing(not so great for boot soles!). The only gripe is that replacement parts will take a while to get(but if you are racing like me I just keep a replacement set anyways).
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Alright. Update on this thread: I got the Attack Performance rearsets for my R1M. I thought I could be slick with the Graves brake return spring and not have to do anything listed in the AP rearset return spring thread. Dead ass wrong. That thing did not have the clearance to get past the lower mounting point of the rear brake master cylinder leg (of the rearset), so now I'm a tiny scuff mark in, out of a brake return spring, and slightly annoyed I'm going to have to go with a fabricated solution to my problem. But on the bright side, I can now conclude that my coveted Graves Brake Return Spring does NOT work with AP rearsets. On the other hand, the exhaust bracket was a pain to line up correctly, but it is doable. I had to do it AFTER the rearset mounting bolts were in, otherwise I couldn't get the rearset on.
So I'm now with a new set of problem(s). If I intend to reuse my brake switch and also do a brake return spring, what's the most efficient route to take on that? Is there a parts list or should I just pick up a bunch of random ones at home depot and work it with the heuristics? I'm asking this question because after reading through the previous thread (located here), there seems to be different sets of information regarding if I'm incorporating the oem brake light switch, the return spring, or a combination of both.
I guess another issue would be that is a pressure switch the better alternative at this point so that it doesn't get in the way or interfere with the return spring?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Update time...
To match the same route I went with, you'll need to remove the OEM brake switch and bracket off of the original rearset. Remove the washer on the rubber and internal spacer that's in the rubber in the bracket (those are M5 size and you'll be reattaching using M6).
For the screws, you'll need a M6 1 x 16 mm for the bracket to hold the OEM brake switch and M5 0.8 x 30 mm to attach the spring of the brake switch to. I threaded the M5 to the middle hole (closest isn't accessible from the rear). The M5 was threaded only enough for the end of the screw to be flush (see pictures). I threaded the M6 to the 2nd row from the bottom, 1 column closest to the front of the bike when mounted. I fixed the M5 screw with a LOT of orange loctite. The M6 was holding in a small rubber grommet from the original rearset and didn't need any. I suspect the rubber will eventually give out because I'm not using the spacer, but I'll see how it is in a few months and maybe convert to a brake pressure switch and use a different spring as my brake return spring.

Some lessons learned:
  • OEM brake switch is a finicky beast. If you've managed to detach the electrical contacts from the switch while removing the original rearset, you may have to rebend the contacts at the bottom to get the switch to work again.
  • you may have to adjust the height of the switch to open the switch (if the brake light is on without you being on the rear brake, you should adjust). You can do this by rotating the fitting holding the switch to the bracket while it is installed.
  • attach the rear brake cylinder before you make the height adjustments. By attaching it, you will introduce some pull to the switch.
  • exhaust springs work against you if you're using the stock bracket along with the graves bracket, but it isn't impossible. You just need to pull against the exhaust springs slightly. Luckily I used ceramic antiseize. The exhaust hasn't bound and can still pull backwards.
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There's browning towards the back side of the carbon fiber near where the pipe terminates (carbon end cap). It's pretty minimal right now, but I'm guessing it'll eventually get worse with time. I don't think it has anything to do with the tune specifically. I have block off plates, the FTEcu map is built for this exhaust, and I have an active tune wideband on there as well. I think it's from the backfiring that goes on whenever I cut the throttle and coast in gear. Pardon the dirty wheel. View attachment 1009229
That's not burning per se, just sooty carbon residue...my EVR does the same thing. It'll clean up with some solvent and elbow grease.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
That's not burning per se, just sooty carbon residue...my EVR does the same thing. It'll clean up with some solvent and elbow grease.
Thanks for the heads up. Any recommendation on what solvent to use that won't destroy the carbon fiber/epoxy?
 
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