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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have an 18' R1M that suddenly is experiencing some strange issues. Sometimes but not all the time the bike will be experiencing a sluggish idle that is around 700-800RPM. If I shut the bike off and turn it back on it usually begins to idle just over 1000 again, but then randomly will fall back into the sluggish idle after some time. This obviously is too low and at times will cause the bike to stall entirely. All throughout the rev-range power and performance seem perfectly fine but I'm not sure what is the culprit here.

I have the SBU ECU flash but it had been flashed about 3 years ago after I first got it. Not sure why all of the sudden that could be responsible for these issues. This season during maintenance I replaced plugs and the air filter but the problem remains. No trouble light on either.

Any ideas on where I can start troubleshooting this? As much as I hate the sound of it I'm thinking of throwing in the towel and having the dealer look at it.

Thanks.

Edit:
I also have a speedcell lithium battery installed
 

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I think one of the maps is being tripped by a sensor reporting bad data or reading a value that is below threshold. That's what is causing your bike to slip that low in the RPMs. Contact SBU about their flash and see if they know which map would cause your RPM to fall so low.
If we're going to do basic troubleshooting, verify that the IAT (ambient temperature) sensor is reporting reasonable values, the voltage levels of the battery and possibly test the CCA of the battery (most motorcycle shops will be able to handle this), check to see if your O2 sensors are dirty (if you still even have them). It might be worthwhile to have the dealership look at it, but the first question they'd ask you is "is the bike flashed" to which if you say "yes" or anything similar to that, they'll probably tell you they don't know and still charge you diagnostic fees.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I think one of the maps is being tripped by a sensor reporting bad data or reading a value that is below threshold. That's what is causing your bike to slip that low in the RPMs. Contact SBU about their flash and see if they know which map would cause your RPM to fall so low.
If we're going to do basic troubleshooting, verify that the IAT (ambient temperature) sensor is reporting reasonable values, the voltage levels of the battery and possibly test the CCA of the battery (most motorcycle shops will be able to handle this), check to see if your O2 sensors are dirty (if you still even have them). It might be worthwhile to have the dealership look at it, but the first question they'd ask you is "is the bike flashed" to which if you say "yes" or anything similar to that, they'll probably tell you they don't know and still charge you diagnostic fees.
Thanks for the reply!

Spoke with SBU yesterday and they immediately insisted that it's a result of the valves tightening up. The bike only has about 7k miles and it's not really ridden that hard to be honest. I called my local dealership and they said that they'd be very surprised to see it being a valve issue before 20k miles. They also said a valve adjustment would be $1000.

I think my first step is going to be a throttle body sync which i'll do myself. Not looking to spend $1000 but I also don't think i'm experienced enough to do a valve adjustment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Checked the throttle body sync today and everything looks okay as far as they are concerned. Still working on this issue.
 

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Sorry I haven't been more help bud. At least that is off the list.

Oops, wrong thread.

That said, at 7k, I doubt it's valves.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Sorry I haven't been more help bud. At least that is off the list.

Oops, wrong thread.

That said, at 7k, I doubt it's valves.
Im leaning towards that conclusion as well.....That being said, sometimes the idle is perfectly fine and only seems to start acting up if i shut the bike off and restart. Kind of a contraindication that its a valve problem because wouldn't it be fairly consistent? Also the bike has no trouble starting at all.
 

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The issue you are having is common with FI systems. Unfortunately with a "purchased map" you dont know what codes they chose to turn off, so whatever the issue is may not kick a code. Here is what I would do after you did the TB sync.
-Ensure your inlet pressure sensor is plugged in
-Check for air leaks, with bike running idle spray some starting fluid around the bottom of the TB and around all the tubes (have a fire extinguisher handy). Look for any type of reaction. Srpay up under the tank and air box.
-Drain the gas, get some good gas maybe only 1/2 gallon in the tank, premium non ethanol and take it for a 5 mile ride, see if that fixes it.
-Run a decent amount of seafoam in the gas, repeat above. Bad gas can cause these weird issues.
-pull each main injector and back flush (you tube this, not hard).
-Then I would check fuel pressure -OR- get a new fuel pump and filter (I think the r1 just has some sock filter). I think all the yamaha bikes use the same pump or at least the motor part.
-If still bad, I would then replace the ignition coils.
-If that fails, it would be the throttle bodies.

However I must say, ignition coils and TB would be very very rare for Yamaha, but shit does happen. Same thing with an injector. When you backflush you'll know if they are working or not as you'll connect power (note only power on for a second or 2 off and on)

This is what I do with all my FI systems, and a single bad coil that is misfiring can cause all of these but seem ok under power until it really starts to go bad.

Given the bike was working then suddenly stopped but runs fine under power tells me its a fuel problem
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Thanks for the suggestions everyone! It definitely seems to be fuel related and I think it is something with the map. I have attached a few videos that show the idle when started cold and then hot. The first video shows how the bike idles after warming up from being completely cold which is consistent and strong. If I then shut it off and start the bike the idle is rough and nearly stalling. Please let me know if anyone has seen something like this before. I just really don't want this to turn out being a valve issue.



 

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Cold and hot sounded the same to me, it has a miss in there. The maps dont change so if it was fine yesterday its fine today, I assume you have no 02 sensors?
I just fixed my ktm doing the same thing, the fuel pump was weak and at idle that is where it would be most notable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Cold and hot sounded the same to me, it has a miss in there. The maps dont change so if it was fine yesterday its fine today, I assume you have no 02 sensors?
I just fixed my ktm doing the same thing, the fuel pump was weak and at idle that is where it would be most notable.
Yup O2 are disconnected at the harness. Interesting about the fuel pump though. What's the best way to check the fuel pressure?
 

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I like to pull it and test it off the bike, on the bike is a pain and you jack into the main fuel rail. If it were me, Id just get a new motor for the pump.
Like I said this just internet advice based on what you are saying. If the bike is fine one day and then suddrenly bad, its not going to be a map. 7k miles on an R1 I would bet on the fuel pumps. They are the weakest link on everything these days. Im not seeing a fuel filter on this bike so it must be in the pump housing, Id check it and see if it is full of carbon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I like to pull it and test it off the bike, on the bike is a pain and you jack into the main fuel rail. If it were me, Id just get a new motor for the pump.
Like I said this just internet advice based on what you are saying. If the bike is fine one day and then suddrenly bad, its not going to be a map. 7k miles on an R1 I would bet on the fuel pumps. They are the weakest link on everything these days. Im not seeing a fuel filter on this bike so it must be in the pump housing, Id check it and see if it is full of carbon.
Okay thanks. Im gonna pull the pump now and see what it looks like.
 

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Put it in some gas and test it if you can. That mess screen, have a look at it. Id also pull 1 main injector and back flush it looking for any junk (backwash into coffee filter).
It sucks they dont put a filter on these to monitor the fuel pump.

Have you tried changing the gas?
 

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Yup O2 are disconnected at the harness.
No O2s mean that the bike is running open loop. It's running without any feedback and is locked to the whatever maps were preprogrammed. A sensor failed or changed its normal output to the ECU. The ECU swapped maps because of the faulty input is where I'd place my bet (but this is also why I'm broke, I'm not good at gambling).

If you are close to Los Angeles, shoot me a PM and maybe we can work something out about reflashing the bike and reading the actual sensor outputs from a computer to verify. If it's still trash, I'll help you with the valve adjustment provided you have a set of all the smallest sized shims available (I do my valve adjustments a little differently).
 

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Given the bike was working then suddenly stopped but runs fine under power tells me its a fuel problem
Was reading through the previous comments. Had a slight counterthought to this one.
I have a buddy with a R6 that I did all sorts troubleshooting of troubleshooting on. "Bike randomly misfires.", "Bike lurches.", "Feels like the bike loses power randomly.", etc. I ended up flashing his bike, verifying his autotune (O2) readings, reapplying a fuel trim, having him ride and datalog again. Whole 9 yards. None of that fixed it.
He called me the other day RIGHT after a ride after replacing the hot garbage OEM battery with a lithium one and complained. I told him to put his lithium battery on a tender. The damn thing took 16 minutes to charge immediately AFTER a 10 mile ride. Immediately told him all his troubles were being caused by a bad stator/rectifier combo. He warrantied the items through Yamaha, and we're currently waiting on it to see if it stops all of his issues.
I'm guessing OP could do a quick check of throwing the bike on a tender after a long ride and seeing if his battery takes forever to charge, but then again, that R6 I'm talking about has been in a few accidents already.
 
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