[gremlyng]

Hi All,

Hope everyone is safe etc....

Going back the end of last year I bought a brand new R1, I only managed to get 200miles on the clock before the winter arrived and of course so far this year it just rained in the UK and then the whole Covid pandemic hit everyone. So the bike has been sat in the garage...

It's been stored in a vacsac with the battery off the bike plugged seperately into an optimate 3 to keep it conditioned... I decided yesterday to get the bike ready to use it to commute into work today just to get some oil around the engine etc... (I don't plan to use it every day, and although I rode sensibly I felt guilty using the bike)

I topped up with fresh fuel to start with and headed off to work (16miles). For some strange reason the 'Engine Check' light didn't go out, the bike rides perfectly and doesn't seem to have lost any power and sounds healthy enough to me. Just wondering if perhaps there is something silly that I'm missing or if perhaps with the battery being off the bike for so long that it could be the cause of part cause of the problem.

It's under warranty although CMC are currently closed for obvious reasons.

Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions?

Cheers in advance.

 

[Buttafewcoe]

If it's running ok, I would put it through a few cycles to see if the light goes out. If after a few rides out and about it is still on, have a go with someone to look at it.

 

[gremlyng]

Yeah will do thanks, I have to ride it home later so maybe it will clear, I read somewhere before that lots of vehicles have learning ECU's that need at least 20 miles to 'learn' so perhaps the fact it has been sat about with no battery has caused it to do this. As it's my lunch break I just went to investigate a little further and discovered that I can't access the settings mode by holding the jog wheel in so I'm guessing the ECU has locked, strange as the performance was 100% fine earlier when I rode to work.

 

[gremlyng]

Heard back from CMC - They seem to think that the engine check light came on as a result of the back wheel turning whilst on a paddock stand - The newer ECU reads the movement and assumes the bike is moving along the road and if the front is not moving it assumes that the front ABS sensor is not working...... Modern electronics and changes in legislation means that the ECU doesn't re-check when you switch off or disconnect the battery, and so it has to be plugged in and the error removed on a diag machine / tool.

Not 100% that I have stuck in on the paddock stand and run the engine let alone stuck it into gear.... Bike rides perfect and pulls as it should so I'm fairly sure it's nothing serious, regardless the bike is under warranty so when CMC open back up I'll get it in for them to check.

 

[Buttafewcoe]

I've turned the rear wheel on a stand and got an Error 69. But it cleared within a few miles of riding.

 

[gremlyng]

I've turned the rear wheel on a stand and got an Error 69. But it cleared within a few miles of riding.

Apparently bikes froma few years ago did that as they went through a check process each time the ignition was turned off and back on, with the newer bikes they don't act the same (so I'm told) and therfore need to be plugged in to reset it! Seems overly sensitive to me - I use an OBD for the car to reset service lights etc... so I'm wondering if something simialr exisits for modern day Yamaha motorbikes.

I intend sticking a de-cat pipe on at some stage after it's run in and having it re-mapped, perhaps there will be away that some of this nonsense can be deleted or toned down a little.

 

[gremlyng]

I ended up buying a diagnostic tool as I wasn’t comfortable running and using the bike without knowing for sure what the cause was behind the Engine Check light staying on. The diagnostic tool comes up with fault code P2195, 02 Sensor Signal Biased/Stuck Lean Bank 1, Sensor 1

Having Googled ‘Yamaha Fault code P2195’ it says it 'is a result of the engine control module (ECM) indicating that the oxygen sensor is fluctuating outside its optimal range. ... This code indicates that the engine could be running lean or that there is a fault in the A/F O2 sensor.

When I dig deeper is says - Initially, this trouble code will not prevent your vehicle from running. The most common result(s) are lowered fuel economy and lack of power. However, if left unsolved, this code could cause internal engine damage as well as damage to other components, such as the catalytic converter and O2 sensors.

Given it seemed to be running fine with no lack of power I reset the code, removed the key left it a few moments, stuck the key back in the ignition and the Engine Check light now goes out as it should after a few seconds, I have also run the bike and the light so far hasn’t come back on. I have repeated the process a handful of time in the garage and all now seems well.

I reset the error code, and have taken the bike for a spin for 30 minutes and the engine check light is still off. Feels and sounds fine.

So perhaps the bike being sat about for a few months is what caused a sensor to gunk up or become lazy.

Will still take the bike in when the dealer is back from lock down to check the bike over properly.