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My R1 and Only
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While the air box is off to test things, take a look into the intake ports, by turning the ign. key on the secondary throttle plates will open fully, turning the key off while they're open will leave them open for easier viewing into the intake port. Holding the throttle wide open after doing that will open the primary throttle plates, and then you can see inside the port. If any of the intake valves are 'bad' , that particular cylinders intake port will be very dirty looking (with carbon build-up) All ports should look the same (clean), Good Luck !
I'm only quoting this to see if this is what i should do to check for wear.

What do you guys think, is this the easiest way to check?
 

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THEONEGTIVR6
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Yes You should be able to see the valve stems once you figure out how to get those throttle plates open. There was a few post back that explained how to put the bike into diag mode to be able to use the throttle to open them up. once you get them to open up take some good picks down all 4 ports. Specifically if you see any valve stems that look to have wear that's different from the rest.
 

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THEONEGTIVR6
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Once you figure out how to get the plates open it will be a clear view of the valve stems.
 

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THEONEGTIVR6
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Post #13 in this thread shows pics of the valve stems you will be able to see once you have figured out how to get the throttle plates open.
 

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Save a life, grope your wife!
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Discussion Starter #645
Also look for a wet spot on the inside top of the air box. This will indicate an intake valve not sealing. It will be directly above the affected intake tract.
 

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My R1 and Only
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136 Posts
Also look for a wet spot on the inside top of the air box. This will indicate an intake valve not sealing. It will be directly above the affected intake tract.
So i got it into diag mode, the stems all look the same to me. I can only see 2 stems per cylinder.

No wet spots on the inside of the air box. Sould i take the intake tract off to get a better look at the stems?

I took some pictures for you guys, but i think if i took the tract off i could get better pics for your opinions.
 

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THEONEGTIVR6
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I'm not noticing anything abnormal but wait until we get someone that's seen the issue before. You should be able to get a shot of 2 stems per cylinder and I would recommend doing the shots showing down each bore from left to right 4 good shots. As of now I'm not sure what cylinders I'm looking down being I've not seen an 07/08 opened up. Are you not able to see both intake stems in each cylinder?? I see some pics showing both intake stems and others showing only one.
 

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My R1 and Only
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136 Posts
I'm not noticing anything abnormal but wait until we get someone that's seen the issue before. You should be able to get a shot of 2 stems per cylinder and I would recommend doing the shots showing down each bore from left to right 4 good shots. As of now I'm not sure what cylinders I'm looking down being I've not seen an 07/08 opened up. Are you not able to see both intake stems in each cylinder?? I see some pics showing both intake stems and others showing only one.

It's hard to see cylinders 1 and 4, those are the ones only showing 1 stem . I'm thinking i should take the tract off. It's looks easy enough to do. Id like someone to confirm that though.

But I'm assuming if i take that off I'll be able to get much better pics for you guys. I haven't put any bolts back in, just put the air box back on and tank down until i hear back so it'll only take a few minutes to get back in there.

Hand washing and waxing her now in the mean time :) and the cruiser since me and the woman are going for a cruise soon.

I want to thank everyone for theyre help! This forum is awesome and i really enjoy learning how to do my own maintenance and check ups from guys with knowledge. It's crazy, i call the dealer to ask what they would charge to check valve stems for wear, and they tell me they have to take apart part of the engine to see.

I just want piece of mind. Then I'll check every month or so to ensure they're is no wear.
 

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THEONEGTIVR6
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You will need to get a look of the valves at there fully opened positions so you will be able to see the worn part of the stem. That is if there is a worn part. I'm sure someone will chime in with the best way to rotate that engine by hand. I think there's a access spot on the right side of the motor for rotating the crank which will then open the valves to each cylinder you will need a pic of each valve fully opened.
 

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My R1 and Only
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136 Posts
You will need to get a look of the valves at there fully opened positions so you will be able to see the worn part of the stem. That is if there is a worn part. I'm sure someone will chime in with the best way to rotate that engine by hand. I think there's a access spot on the right side of the motor for rotating the crank which will then open the valves to each cylinder you will need a pic of each valve fully opened.
Ya i remember seeing someone crank it by hand on you tube. It is indeed on the right side. I'll research more and try it tomorrow. Thanks again for the help.
 

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Save a life, grope your wife!
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Discussion Starter #653
...but wait until we get someone that's seen the issue before.
That would be me. I'm the OP of this thread. :grin2:

Matt, all your pics look good so far. You don't have the wet spot and your valve stems look good from the pics you provided. If you have no loss in power at this point, I would think you're good to go. But keep in mind there are exhaust valves as well. I'm not sure how many issues they had with those as they are stainless steel and pretty dependable. Most issues I have seen, and the one I had, were with the Ti intake valves.

These motors have always had a tic to them. It can be disconcerting at times. Even after I fixed my head, I still had a slight tic to it and that was with a fresh clearance job before installing the head. But it ran great and is even running today, but with a different owner. :crying:

By all means pull the intake assembly to get a better look, but if a stem was wearing down, you would see the deposits from the stem in the intake itself even if the stem wasn't immediately visible.
 

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THEONEGTIVR6
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He should still hand crank it to get pics of each valve at it's fully opens position shouldn't he hooligan998??? While he has it apart just to make sure. I would have thought you would want to see each valve fully open to be able to see the stem wear if any?? Right??
 

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THEONEGTIVR6
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After reading this thread earlier I'm just so glad I ended up with the 04/06 model that still had the good ol 5 valve per cylinder head. The genesis Desighn was awesome and reliable for many years. I had a 02 and just beat the dog shit out of it for 40,000 miles riding the whole tail of the dragon in 1st gear at redline almost the whole road. Only going into 2nd very few times. I mean totally ringing it's neck. Never a single issue. As for my 04 I just now hit 1000 miles this week and for the first time a couple hours ago it seen its first 13,000rpms through 3 or 4 gears. Man she feels strong. After doing it I thought wow I shouldn't have done that just yet being I've not installed my updated rotor yet. I love this bike so much.
 

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My R1 and Only
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136 Posts
After reading this thread earlier I'm just so glad I ended up with the 04/06 model that still had the good ol 5 valve per cylinder head. The genesis Desighn was awesome and reliable for many years. I had a 02 and just beat the dog shit out of it for 40,000 miles riding the whole tail of the dragon in 1st gear at redline almost the whole road. Only going into 2nd very few times. I mean totally ringing it's neck. Never a single issue. As for my 04 I just now hit 1000 miles this week and for the first time a couple hours ago it seen its first 13,000rpms through 3 or 4 gears. Man she feels strong. After doing it I thought wow I shouldn't have done that just yet being I've not installed my updated rotor yet. I love this bike so much.
I'm still going to take the tract off for better pictures when i get home from work today since i haven't bolted her down yet. I didn't have a chance to last night. Went for a cruise on vrod with my lady and friends then had to finish a paper for school (almost done with my industrial engineering degree)

I'm still not sure how to hand crank it, i started a thread last night but i dont think anyone responded yet.Good thing is i can always check, it doesnt take long to take those few parts off.

Jake, those were the models, 04-06, i was looking for. Personally my favorite looking years are 04-07, i wasnt a fan of the red mid fairing on the red 08's. And i wanted a red r1. But i just so happened to come across this 07 for about the same price ppl wanted for some 05s i looked at that had more miles.

I read this thread and almost didn't buy it, but i took a chance since it was a 1 07 build. Now I'll just be sure to check it a few times every season to make sure i catch anything early. I love this bike sooo much, my fiance just doesnt understand. I think she's jealous cause I'm always saying how beautiful she (r1) is :grin2:
 

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My R1 and Only
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136 Posts
That would be me. I'm the OP of this thread. :grin2:

Matt, all your pics look good so far. You don't have the wet spot and your valve stems look good from the pics you provided. If you have no loss in power at this point, I would think you're good to go. But keep in mind there are exhaust valves as well. I'm not sure how many issues they had with those as they are stainless steel and pretty dependable. Most issues I have seen, and the one I had, were with the Ti intake valves.

These motors have always had a tic to them. It can be disconcerting at times. Even after I fixed my head, I still had a slight tic to it and that was with a fresh clearance job before installing the head. But it ran great and is even running today, but with a different owner. :crying:

By all means pull the intake assembly to get a better look, but if a stem was wearing down, you would see the deposits from the stem in the intake itself even if the stem wasn't immediately visible.
The OG OP:jump

Thanks for the reply, I'm going to take the intake assembly off and get better pics today. Ive only put 500 miles on since i bought her, and about 200 of those were on the ride home. It's been raining almost every day here. The tick could've been there before i can't be sure. But i think i only noticed it after changing plugs and air filter.

No loss of power i can tell, i haven't had an r1 for some years now after i sold my 03 r1. Last bike was an 07 r6. I'm still amazed how easily she gets to 130-150, makes me smile everytime.

Thanks again for all the replies, this forum is amazing. Im learning alot!
 

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THEONEGTIVR6
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1,352 Posts
Matt on the right side crank cover there may be a center bolt you can take out for access to the crank or ya may have to pull the whole cover off. Then you will see what you need to spin. It's not easy but you can also put it in 6th gear for the best leverage and turn the rear wheel and it will turn the engine over. I know my 04 has a access port to be able to crank it over by hand I'm pretty sure anyway. Being I ain't been in it I'm not sure but I've read about it in a thread. lol I gotta put my updated rotor in before I do any more riding. This is another thing that your gonna wanna do to yours. Get the updated rotor. The old one will feed your engine magnets.
 

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My R1 and Only
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136 Posts
Matt on the right side crank cover there may be a center bolt you can take out for access to the crank or ya may have to pull the whole cover off. Then you will see what you need to spin. It's not easy but you can also put it in 6th gear for the best leverage and turn the rear wheel and it will turn the engine over. I know my 04 has a access port to be able to crank it over by hand I'm pretty sure anyway. Being I ain't been in it I'm not sure but I've read about it in a thread. lol I gotta put my updated rotor in before I do any more riding. This is another thing that your gonna wanna do to yours. Get the updated rotor. The old one will feed your engine magnets.
Does this look right? Is on the left side though
 

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