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THEONEGTIVR6
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Definitely not that left side that left side pic is your stator/rotor cover.
 

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My R1 and Only
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136 Posts
Lift the bike with a rear stand also put it in 6th gear and turn the rear wheel it will turn the engine.
I plan on getting a rear stand, haven't yet though. Would it work pushing it in 6th?

Also, if i take that cap off to turn by hand. Is there a gasket I'll have to replace?

I hit a snag yesterday, went to take intake tract off but needed a 5mm t handle. The attachment i have for my ratchet was too wide for two of the holes.

Going to go today and buy one if there are any stores open. Or my buddy has one ill borrow. I put it together yesterday and went for a quick ride. Idk if its because i know is ticking now, but i notice more and more.

The paranoia is real! I gotta get a good view and pictures of those stems to put my mind at ease.
 

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THEONEGTIVR6
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Matt it is Normal to hear a little tick in some of these engines. But I think you will definitely know when it becomes a bad tick. For one it will become harder to start and loose low end power with perhaps some backfire too. I will say the pics of the cover you posted on the left side of the bike is the stator/rotor cover. Our bikes also have a rotor on them that has been updated. It's a 350 dollar part but in my opinion a must. Otherwise you could very likely end up with magnets throughout your engine making this valve guide issue seem like a tiny thing. Trust me I would get this part and install as soon as you can. Here is a link to give you a idea of what this rotor looks like.

http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/46-how-tos/591801-how-04-06-r1-stock-rotor-assembly-rebuild.html
 
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THEONEGTIVR6
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And yes you could roll the bike in 6th gear to get the engine to rotate.
 
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THEONEGTIVR6
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Get it fixed and sell it.....it's just from a bad batch.
Wow and throw it off on someone that might have just spent 3/5 years saving every penny for his dream. (A Yamaha r1) that would do suck but I will say it's happened to me before and I'd love to do this to the guy who did it to me.
 

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THEONEGTIVR6
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BSR-1 hey I have the 04/06 and would consider yanking my head in the winter for some love. What kind of results can be gotten and what would all be done to do so.
 

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My R1 and Only
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Well i got it apart, got a good view of them all. They look the same.

Put it in 6th gear and pushed it forward. The stems didn't show signs of wear imo. The only thing i got worried about was when the stems were pushed down, i saw some what I'm assuming was oil coming through the stems. A small amount formed on top of the stem. Hoping it was because that was the size the bike was leaning towards on the kickstand. Maybe the pressure of the stems depressing caused oil to be pushed through?

I took some pictures but they are hard to see. But i did brighten them up. The pic that is shown is how they all look. I couldn't get a picture of the oil that seeped through.
 

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THEONEGTIVR6
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Omw to get the 5mm t. Will be taking her apart this morning.

Do you have a part number or link for the new part? And how urgent is it that i replace on a bike with 5k miles?
5vy-81450-00-00 is old rotor new is 2sh-81450-00-00
Get on eBay and search this rotor you will see old versions with the exposed magnets and the new version the magnets are trapped with some kid of sleeve where you can't see them. Cheapest I found new was eBay 354 shipped. My 04 had less than 1000 miles on it and its the first thing I'm doing to it. Not worth the possible issue it could cause. I was originally going to go this summer on the stock piece but woulda been worried all summer so have asked every wrecked or part out thread if there bike had the updated rotor and the guy that posted his crash into the side of the car a couple weeks ago had the updated version. So I got his at 250. Not bad.
 
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My R1 and Only
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Alright guys. I came home started it up to see if that dark spot i thought was oil would spit up on inside of air box. I fired it up, gave it throttle then took off the cover and checked and there was no wet spot

I got a good pic of it. Want to a what you guys thought it was? Itd the dark spot I'm talking about on the bottom of the stem.

For now is it safe to say to I'm good to go because i don't see wear on the stems? And just keep checking periodically?

Other than that now i gotta get the updated stator.
 

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Save a life, grope your wife!
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Discussion Starter #674
The tops of the valves have the normal deposits on them that you would normally see in any engine. Just run some upper end cleaner, like Lucas (which is what I prefer), in the gas. That should take care of the deposits and clean up the top end a bit.

Since it's easy enough to pull the air box, you can most definitely keep an eye on things. But I can almost guarantee you that your first sign will be like your bike is running on three cylinders, both in sound and performance. Once this valve failure starts to happen, it tends to go rather quick. so be mindful of that. The failed valve that I posted pics of had less than 50 miles once the first signs happened.

Just so you know, the wet spot I talked about earlier would come from the valve stem starting to wear and causing the valve not to sit correctly on the valve seat when closed. This allows the fuel/air mixture to be pushed back up the intake tract during the compression stroke, causing it to deposit on the inside lid of the air box. This is also what would cause your power loss. You may even experience a slight "backfire" when this happens. To be absolutely sure you have a good seal on your valves, you really need to be doing a compression check on each cylinder. Any loss in compression could then be further diagnosed with a leak down test.
 

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My R1 and Only
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Thanks for all the help guys. It's really appreciated!! I'm learning alot and will continue to because these forums are awesome. I'll take your advice and run some of that lucas to clean the deposits.

Next is to change out that stator to the updated version. Jake, you were correct they are 350 on ebay. I saw your how to and plan on doing it myself. I'll do it at my mechanic friends place in case i need help.

Ive also been looking at the a&r baffles. Ive read it can be a pain in the ass to get the stock ones out, so im not sure if i want to bother yet. But i don't feel i wanna spend 600+ on slip ons.
 

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My R1 and Only
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Jake, nm i guess i was thinking of a different how to. That was just to rebuild the old stator. Is replacing then difficult?
 

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I'm having the same issue but my bike is making a knocking sound .. anyone have a idea what I should be concerned about after doing the valves? Why the knocking?
 
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