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Thread killer...
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Picked up a small enclosed trailer today. $750 on Craigslist. It needs some work, but not much and it is fully functional as is.

The good: Solid, not much rust (surface only), complete, rides great, no issues pulling it at 65mph on the freeway.

The bad: It has some damage to both rear doors which should be easily fixable, a few cracked lights, some trim damage, the skylight is cracked and needs to be replaced, needs some TLC to the wiring.














 

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Thread killer...
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Discussion Starter #2
Inside dimensions are 94.5" long, 56.50" wide, 66.75" tall. Doorway is 47.5" wide x 59" tall. Floor is 3/4" ply over the metal frame, sidewalls are OSB (1/2" I think). I forgot to take picks of the inside, but there wasn't much to see anyway. It is an empty box right now.

I am going to replace all the lights with LED's, add some interior lighting and wire it up to accept a small generator input and/or normal 120v if available. My truck doesn't have the alternator or battery to power anything of note for very long.

Now I need to come up with a list of affordable mods to the inside since I pretty much blew my race/track/goodies budget for the year. :D
 

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Hope is what makes us Human.
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Not bad at all. Just needs some work and its good to go. Approved :thumbup:
 

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Thread killer...
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Discussion Starter #5
Made a little progress today.

This is how it ended up after the last day I worked on it (the freezing cold suck ass day last Saturday). I insulated one wall and part of the ceiling.


This is a pic of the old (and very broken) ceiling vent.


Front wall (a little dinged but solid).


I am going to need to replace the floor I think. Both corners have pretty extensive water damage. After the last rain storm it was a bit damp in both corners, but I haven't inspected the roof on the back yet to find the source. That is next on the list I guess.


Front wall insulated.


After insulating the rest of the roof, I put up a ceiling. It is some sort of acrylic based MDF. Bendable, stain resistant, and white so I don't have to paint it. Also you can see the new vent I installed (and didn't take a picture of).


In addition to the above, I installed my LED taillights, and finished insulating the front corners. All I have left to insulate is the area between the roof and the top of the walls. I ran out of daylight, so I will get to that next time. I also really need to set an hourly alarm to remind myself to take pictures along the way. I always seem to forget as the day goes by. :D
 

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Super Moderator
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Lookin' good. It's always nice to have a project like this to keep the mojo going. I'm sure you'll get good use out of it.
 

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I RACE U LOSE
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Some LED strip lighting would be very useful too.
 

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Life: Comedy or Tragedy?
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Some LED strip lighting would be very useful too.
:iamwithst

If you are planning to drag a generator with you, or if the tracks you are going to have power, I would recommend installing a 30amp RV connection on the front of the trailer. Then, you can route some wiring for LED light strips on the ceiling, as well as a power strip inside for things such as ran, radio, laptop, phone charger, etc. It'll make things a lot better for you.
 

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I am the vanilla gorilla!
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Just curious, why are you putting in insulation? If/when you redo the floors, make sure to put in some anchor points for tie downs.
 

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Thread killer...
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Discussion Starter #10
If you are planning to drag a generator with you, or if the tracks you are going to have power, I would recommend installing a 30amp RV connection on the front of the trailer. Then, you can route some wiring for LED light strips on the ceiling, as well as a power strip inside for things such as ran, radio, laptop, phone charger, etc. It'll make things a lot better for you.
I am actually working on that now. I don't see myself doing more than a weekend out at the track. My local track day group does a few two day (weekend) events each year, and I might drag the trailer to COTA next year since the corner workers get free camping, but that's probably it. I mainly bought the trailer so I don't have to take the precarious tailgate step up after being at the track all day. I jokingly (sort of) say all the time the most dangerous part of being at the track is the unloading in the morning, and definitely reloading at the end of the day.

My plan right now is looking like a battery box on the front with some 12v LED strip lighting inside and a simple car stereo with two 6 1/2 speakers, and maybe a USB charging port. For 120V AC I am going to run a switched two bulb fluorescent fixture (2x32w T8) down the middle (a bit offset for the air vent), one general use outlet, and one hidden outlet for a 12v trickle charger. This way I can hook into track power if available, or a small generator. For now I am probably looking at less than a kilowatt of power use. I can't afford a generator right now anyway, unless I get a cheap one from Harbor Freight or something.

The plan above is mostly based off already having all of it in the garage (leftovers from other past projects).
 

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Thread killer...
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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Just curious, why are you putting in insulation? If/when you redo the floors, make sure to put in some anchor points for tie downs.
Mainly heat and sound if I do end up sleeping in it. I am imagining an all aluminum box sitting in the sun up at MSR Cresson, or out at TWS. :D I don't know if it will help enough to make it worth the work I did, but the sound factor is already very noticeable. It sounded like a tin can before, but now it is very quiet, even with the air vent and the back doors open. I do plan on adding anchor points. I just don't know if I want to fork out the cash for e-track of just use anchor points.

I appreciate all the advice by the way (everyone).
 

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I am the vanilla gorilla!
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Mainly heat and sound if I do end up sleeping in it. I am imagining an all aluminum box sitting in the sun up at MSR Cresson, or out at TWS. :D I don't know if it will help enough to make it worth the work I did, but the sound factor is already very noticeable. It sounded like a tin can before, but now it is very quiet, even with the air vent and the back doors open. I do plan on adding anchor points. I just don't know if I want to fork out the cash for e-track of just use anchor points.



I appreciate all the advice by the way (everyone).

That's why I was asking, honestly I was thinking the insulation would make the heat worse. I used to sleep in my trailer with the back door cracked and a box fan blowing inside. I was happy for the plywood walls as they didn't hold heat like an insulated wall would. (At least I think)
 

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Life: Comedy or Tragedy?
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I am actually working on that now. I don't see myself doing more than a weekend out at the track. My local track day group does a few two day (weekend) events each year, and I might drag the trailer to COTA next year since the corner workers get free camping, but that's probably it. I mainly bought the trailer so I don't have to take the precarious tailgate step up after being at the track all day. I jokingly (sort of) say all the time the most dangerous part of being at the track is the unloading in the morning, and definitely reloading at the end of the day.

My plan right now is looking like a battery box on the front with some 12v LED strip lighting inside and a simple car stereo with two 6 1/2 speakers, and maybe a USB charging port. For 120V AC I am going to run a switched two bulb fluorescent fixture (2x32w T8) down the middle (a bit offset for the air vent), one general use outlet, and one hidden outlet for a 12v trickle charger. This way I can hook into track power if available, or a small generator. For now I am probably looking at less than a kilowatt of power use. I can't afford a generator right now anyway, unless I get a cheap one from Harbor Freight or something.

The plan above is mostly based off already having all of it in the garage (leftovers from other past projects).
No worries. Was some suggestions if you didn't already have the components. Given that it's a smaller, low height trailer, small LED strips, or LED rope will work better and not stick out as much. But, I can completely understand keeping costs under control. One other suggestion is to pick up a small fan that will fit inside the vent and can draw heat out.

Mainly heat and sound if I do end up sleeping in it. I am imagining an all aluminum box sitting in the sun up at MSR Cresson, or out at TWS. :D I don't know if it will help enough to make it worth the work I did, but the sound factor is already very noticeable. It sounded like a tin can before, but now it is very quiet, even with the air vent and the back doors open. I do plan on adding anchor points. I just don't know if I want to fork out the cash for e-track of just use anchor points.

I appreciate all the advice by the way (everyone).
E-track all the way. You'll be happier for it.

That's why I was asking, honestly I was thinking the insulation would make the heat worse. I used to sleep in my trailer with the back door cracked and a box fan blowing inside. I was happy for the plywood walls as they didn't hold heat like an insulated wall would. (At least I think)
As someone who's slept in a van during summer heat, and winter chill, the insulation will definitely help with both temperature control as well as sound.
 

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Thread killer...
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Discussion Starter #14
Pics I missed from Saturday. I just stopped by to see if the trailer is leaking still (it have been raining non stop all day. Unfortunately it is leaking pretty good on the right rear corner. Need to fix that ASAP! The other corner didn't seem to be leaking, but there is a big piece of gasket missing off the top of the left side door. Water may be leaking through there and then to the right (it is slightly downhill). I will figure it out this weekend hopefully.

LED tail lights. Very bright and shouldn't burn out anytime soon.


Top vent with screen.


Pic of the insulated front corners.


The rest of the LED exterior lighting should be here tomorrow I hope. Two 1x4 inch lights per side, 15" amber up front, 15" red on the back (top middle), and a license plate lamp. Basically just replaced all the old fixtures with new. They are sealed, so you really can't easily change the bulb.
 

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Thread killer...
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Discussion Starter #15


Male plug for 120v. I just used a simple 14 gauge extension cord. I am just going to use the other end of the cord as a cover when it is not plugged in.


32wx2 Fluorescent lighting. I will need 120V or a generator, but it works well at the house in case I am loading at night. I added a lighted light switch and a four outlet box. I plan to add a GFIC to the plug for safety. I also grounded the incoming line to the trailer chassis. Should be safe for the small amount of power I am going to be using.


Just need to finish the front top part and it will be all sealed up. Then I need to paint the walls white. Not sure on the flooring yet, but I am leaning towards outdoor carpeting. I sanded all the epoxy globs, and who knows what else that was on the floor. It is flat now, so whatever I decide to put down should be ok.


Still on the list is a matching rim (I have two odd balls now), and new tires. and I need to redo the back doors. I want it ready for TWS in June, but I would also like to take it to COTA in two weeks which doesn't look likely right now. I was thinking of camping one night and bringing the R1 for the parade lap on Saturday.
 

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Astronomer not Astrologer
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I would not do carpet, as you can't easily sweep out the dirt, or clean up any spills. Cheap linoleum would be my choice...if I had the room to store a trailer like that...

Looks like it is coming out nice though...:thumbup
 

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Thread killer...
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Discussion Starter #18
I would not do carpet, as you can't easily sweep out the dirt, or clean up any spills. Cheap linoleum would be my choice...if I had the room to store a trailer like that...

Looks like it is coming out nice though...:thumbup
I had thought about linoleum, but I was more worried about traction than dirt/spills. Linoleum is pretty slippery when damp/wet. I was also thinking of Linex or similar.
 

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Thread killer...
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Discussion Starter #19
This is kinda what I was thinking (Random internet grab. If the owner of this pic wants it taken down let me know).

 

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2ND is the first LOSER!
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Rich, AWESOME job my friend!!! I have a 6x12 Trailer that is done up with cabinets and hangers and all kind of cool things in it, the best part is the building -putting it together..ENJOY..750.00 was a great deal for what you got.. I also had some leaks on the top of my trailer, Home depot has 1-5 gallon cans of black roof tar, works awesome and spreads on with a putty knife. Keep the build pics coming..
 
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