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Relax...It's just a wheelie!
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys,

I have a 99 R1 that has been sitting in my parents barn since I enlisted in the Navy. They are about to move and asked me if they could sell it and I really don't want to do that. My question is does anyone have a rough estimate of how much a full overhaul of the engine and replacement of hoses and such? They dropped it on the right side while transporting it to their new house and cracked a bunch of the fairings, but I have access to new fairings. I'm just curious if it will be more expensive to get the bike running than just buying a new(used) bike. Pictures are what she sent me of the condition of the bike, so they may not be the best. Thanks in advance for all the help.

V/R,
Ryan
 

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THEONEGTIVR6
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How many miles are on this thing?? Is it in a area with a dry climate?? This would make a difference on corrosion. Did you leave it with fuel in the tank?? If the fuel had ethinol in it that will be bad news for the tank for sure.
 

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Relax...It's just a wheelie!
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Discussion Starter #3
Asking my parents now, but I'm pretty sure it has between 12-15k miles on it. I was stored in a barn in Indiana. I don't know if there was fuel in the tank as they cannot get the tank open (I do have a spare tank though.)
 

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Hope is what makes us Human.
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Asking my parents now, but I'm pretty sure it has between 12-15k miles on it. I was stored in a barn in Indiana. I don't know if there was fuel in the tank as they cannot get the tank open (I do have a spare tank though.)
Hi there,
At 12-15K mile is not worth restoring IMHO. If you do it urself, then that's a different story. Because you can take it as a project that you can work over time... But if you are going to pay a garage to make it worth of riding again, It wil cost you a lot more then what the bike is worth, cuz a lot of work needs to be done. And checked :corn

Just an idea of what can/is wrong with it:
Brakes ceased.
Carbs needs rebuild
new fuel tank
new fuel pump/filter
tires
service forks. front and back
flush coolant
change oil
service yoke
service all wheel bearings
swingarm bearings
check engine for compression
spark plugs
spark plugs wires
air filter
maybe new radiator
new battery
maybe new clutch


maybe mice got into your harness...then u have a serious problem:555:
 

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Relax...It's just a wheelie!
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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you for the information. I figured it was going to be a long shot to get my bike running again. I'm still pretty pissed that my parents took such bad care of my baby while I was in Japan. Looks like I'm in the market for a new bike. Thanks again for all the advice.
 

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If your mechanically inclined then with a thousand bucks you could have it pretty nice again. But if your going to have to pay someone to do it then I wouldn't bother. Give it a good wash and say it was stored for a long time leave the word barn out of it and sell it to someone looking for a project.
 

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Hope is what makes us Human.
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If your mechanically inclined then with a thousand bucks you could have it pretty nice again. But if your going to have to pay someone to do it then I wouldn't bother. Give it a good wash and say it was stored for a long time leave the word barn out of it and sell it to someone looking for a project.
Ditto! >:)
 

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The Yamaha service manual says to rebuild the brake calipers every two years. It also says you have to rebuild the forks every two years as well.

I have 20k miles on a 19 year old bike. I have never rebuilt the calipers or the forks. Your bike has mostly cosmetic damage. These carbs are not hard to clean. Coolant and oil is very easy to do. These early R1's are known for leaking carburetors that have sat for a long time. I simply ran the fuel line (I bypassed the fuel tank) into a gas can. I put about 1/2 gallon of gas, and about 3 ounces of fuel injector cleaner (Chevron Techron recommends one ounce per gallon of gas) into the gas can. This works like a charm.

A brake caliper rebuild every two years is a bit excessive in my opinion. Yamaha recommends doing so for reasons of liability. You could get the bike running, and think about other maintenance Later.


 

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The brake calliper rebuild isn't needed if you keep your fluid healthy. If you let it collect moisture then the aluminum reacts with the moisture and brake fluid and grows this calcified crap behind the piston seals and pushes them out into the pistons and it will make them stick. Bleed your brakes properly based on your climate and fluid and you'll be fine. My dad's 99 has never needed a rebuild.

Forks the oil viscosity breaks down and you don't have the same handling characteristics. It will also wear metal into the oil that will begin to wear more faster so the oil should be changed out every so often depending on your riding.

Rust in tank is more of a concern and stuck rings from the pistons never moving but a cap of ATF down each cylinder to soak should fix it.

It's all fixable it just falls back to weather it's worth it for him and if he's capable of doing the work.
 

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change the front brake hose. this old thread now.

always torque the master cylinder bleed screw to 53 inlbs. or it will leak brake fluid onto the windscreen (at high speed).

changing the fork fluid is the hardest to do.
 

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Forks the oil viscosity breaks down and you don't have the same handling characteristics. It will also wear metal into the oil that will begin to wear more faster so the oil should be changed out every so often depending on your riding.
how to change fork fluid: watch this video at 1 minute 8 seconds; see how the fluid is pumped back into the drive unit ?

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=change+oil+in+bravo+three+drive&view=detail&mid=FEA6584FD49EA45EFC71FEA6584FD49EA45EFC71&FORM=VIRE

anyone know this trick for the R1 fork tubes ?
 

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new r1 forks don't go by volume and you never get it all out so you aren't supposed to do it like that. you take off the top cap also to fill them. you take the fork out and set it with the spring out and leg compressed i believe. pour oil in and then set the height of the tool on the needle and suck back out the excess fluid. they are fairly precise i wouldn't really second guess the system.

https://www.motosport.com/product/?adpos=1o1&cc=us&creative=198015565398&device=c&gclid=Cj0KCQjw-tXlBRDWARIsAGYQAmcPCjIMbEwvhtbhzYiFtXLanXSeusOeYalfIttzJF1XQIdUVC2vkXEaAvRCEALw_wcB&key=Motion-Pro-Fork-Oil-Level-Gauge&matchtype=&mrkgadid=3210922843&mrkgcl=500&network=g&product_id=MOP002G-X001-Y001&pssource=true&rkg_id=0&segment=badger&variant[MOP002G]=MOP002G-X001-Y001
 

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new r1 forks don't go by volume and you never get it all out so you aren't supposed to do it like that. you take off the top cap also to fill them. you take the fork out and set it with the spring out and leg compressed i believe. pour oil in and then set the height of the tool on the needle and suck back out the excess fluid. they are fairly precise i wouldn't really second guess the system.

https://www.motosport.com/product/?adpos=1o1&cc=us&creative=198015565398&device=c&gclid=Cj0KCQjw-tXlBRDWARIsAGYQAmcPCjIMbEwvhtbhzYiFtXLanXSeusOeYalfIttzJF1XQIdUVC2vkXEaAvRCEALw_wcB&key=Motion-Pro-Fork-Oil-Level-Gauge&matchtype=&mrkgadid=3210922843&mrkgcl=500&network=g&product_id=MOP002G-X001-Y001&pssource=true&rkg_id=0&segment=badger&variant[MOP002G]=MOP002G-X001-Y001
I like your reply, but I was asking if there is an easier technique. that why I posted the video of how they do it on a boat drive.


on my nighthawk I remove the top caps and vacuum out the old oil, measure the removed quantity, and then pour in new oil from the top; otherwise (I think) you have to partially disassemble the fork to add new oil. do that often enough and eventually you have mostly new oil. but I don't think you can do that with r1 forks (never tried).
 

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1. No there is no way with how they are built

2. My point was that it would be inaccurate because of fluid left in the hose and fittings so it isn't even worth trying.

You can hang the front end and pop the top caps off and suck it out with a syringe like you said and just replace what you remove like you said. Easiest way I could see
 

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1. No there is no way with how they are built

2. My point was that it would be inaccurate because of fluid left in the hose and fittings so it isn't even worth trying.

You can hang the front end and pop the top caps off and suck it out with a syringe like you said and just replace what you remove like you said. Easiest way I could see
That what I'll do. Very helpful too. :smile2:

I have to use a headlift stand ?
 
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