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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
****Disclaimer****

Although this is a great way to tune one"s bike,the r1-forum.com team and r1-forum enterprises cant be liable for any problems resulting from this procedure.

martinc

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I thought the Service Manual might tell me how to use the ECU to adjust the Air/Fuel mix on an '03 R1, but all it deals with is Fault and Diagnotic codes.

Anybody know how to do this? The dealer says he will do it for me, but I would rather learn to do it myself.

I know it can be done_without_ a Power Commander, etc.

Thanks.

Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Here's what I learned at the Yamaha dealer today:

1) Coming out of the ECU is a yellow wire with a red lead. (If it looks like there are two, don't worry. It is the same wire doubled back on itself in the loom.) Ground it.

2) While holding the Select and Reset buttons down at the same time, turn the ignition key to ON. Wait approx. 8 seconds.

3) The Diagnostic window should come on with a "CO" code. Beneath it should be a indicator for Cylinder #1, maybe "Cyl 1," and a number value. That number value represents the factory setting for the air/fuel mix in Cylinder #1. Use the buttons to richen or lean out the cylinder. The dealer recommends richening it 3-5 steps to start, i.e., if it reads 7, richen it to 10-12.

4) Select the next cylinder. Very likely the factory settings are staggered, so if Cylinder #1 was 7, this one may be 10. You don't want to change the stagger. But you do want to richen each cylinder equally. So, if you added 3 to Cylinder #1, add three to Cylnder #2. This gives you a new Cylinder #2 setting of 13.

5) Repeat for each cylinder.

6) Turn ignition OFF.

7) Remove ground.

For those of you who know about carberators, this mod is the same as adjusting your air/fuel screw on your carberator. It would be a good idea to write down all the factory settings, in case you want to change back.

I've tried to be clear. I am writing from an amateur's point of view. I am not a mechanic. But I am going to try this mod on my bike.

Mark

P.S. According to my dealer, this is really the only adjustment that you can make to the air/fuel mix without a Power Commander (unless you are some sort of factory race team mechanic).
 

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RIP my brother and best friend
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I had a factory race team mechanic to do it for me. But he said it would not be possible to get a good result without running the bike on a dyno to get a readout during the adjustments.

This is the result he got on my bike (it also includet the Graves Velocity Stack kit):
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
One:

Those are excellent results. Could you post your stock settings and your final settings for each cylinder?

I do, indeed, wish I had a Yamaha Factory Race Team mechanic hanging around, but in the absence of that . . . .

Thanks.

Mark

P.S. I assume that we are talking about the same adjustment . . . . Or is it possible that your guy did something altogether different in order to get that performance out of your bike? My dealer mechanic told me that do the mod as I described above would _not_ produce more power; it would only fatten up the bottom end (as would an air/fuel screw adjutsment on a carberator).

I think your guy did something different — and cooler. I heard a story about a race team mechanic visiting my dealer and he dialed in some guy's ECU for more power.
 

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Hi Mark.

I am sorry but I do not have the excact settings. What I know is that he adjustet them from 10 somethinh to 13 something.

He said that all R1's comes very lean from the factory, and that both a slip-on, and the velocity stacks would just make it run even leaner.

But as you said - I think he did do some more adjustments other than richen the mix, but he was not willing to tell or show me what. But it was done thru the dash and it has to do with adjustments to the ECU settings. Got a feeling that this is a bit "hush - don't tell anyone".

He works for the Yamaha Moto France team, but I have been lucky to have him as "my mechanic" for 15 years back - so every time he is home, I have a talk with him to see if he has picked up something new.

Arne

ps: He did not ground any wire while doing this - as far as I could see, but then again - he was not to keen to let me know how he did this, so that might be the reason for why I did not "pick it up".

He told me he would not cause others to try this adjustments without the proper knowledge and a dyno - and risk blowning up some engines.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Arne:

Hello, hello! (I wish I knew some Norwegian, but, alas, I do not.)

The story that I heard went the same way — that these guys will sometimes adjust your bike for you, and get more power by doing nothing except punching in some codes on the dash, but that how to do it is all a big secret that they cannot share with anyone. You are lucky to have access to this guy.

I'm pretty sure about what my dealer told me, and I'm going to do it (I don't know about elsewhere, but California bikes are very lean from the factory). But I am not a mechanic, so I'm having some trouble just figuring out best how to ground the wire. It's damn small. I thought I would just stick a sewing needle into it and ground the needle, but this isn't as easy as it sounds, and I am afraid to break the wire in half. This should be the easy part, right?

I've heard many lovely things about your country and its people. I hope I can visit there some day.

Best,

Mark
 

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RIP my brother and best friend
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Hi again Mark.

No problem that you don't know any norwegian, as long as I know a little english...:)

About the wire..... As I said, I am not shure that he did not ground any wires - but I think I would have seen it if he did...? For me it looked like he just got access to a special menu on the dash by pressing the buttons while switching the igintion on/off - in some "unknown sequence".

What he told me was that it was important to have access to a dyno while doing this, so that he could read out the exaust and the power to optimize the EFI settings.

Norway has a great nature, and nice curvy roads for biking. But the speed limits are a bit low, and the police are eager to catch you....with high bills as a result unfortunately.

I have been to California and LA 2 times, and I really like to travel in the USA. In April next year I am ging to Florida for my 6. time, and I am very much looking forward to that!

Best regards
Arne
 

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Adrenalin Junky
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What was the out come to your adjustments (Increase in fuel across the board)?

Just wondering..

BTW: Yesterday I ran a 137.6 on the dyno with a SlipOn / Stacks / Air Box Mod and K&N. I think it needs fuel work for those mods to take effect, personally.





Mark618 said:
Arne:

Hello, hello! (I wish I knew some Norwegian, but, alas, I do not.)

The story that I heard went the same way — that these guys will sometimes adjust your bike for you, and get more power by doing nothing except punching in some codes on the dash, but that how to do it is all a big secret that they cannot share with anyone. You are lucky to have access to this guy.

I'm pretty sure about what my dealer told me, and I'm going to do it (I don't know about elsewhere, but California bikes are very lean from the factory). But I am not a mechanic, so I'm having some trouble just figuring out best how to ground the wire. It's damn small. I thought I would just stick a sewing needle into it and ground the needle, but this isn't as easy as it sounds, and I am afraid to break the wire in half. This should be the easy part, right?

I've heard many lovely things about your country and its people. I hope I can visit there some day.

Best,

Mark
 

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Adrenalin Junky
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Originally posted by ari1000
buy a power commander its a lot easier
I agree but I have read a bunch of storys of problems with "malfunctioning units" that I thought it would be cool to leave the FI system "stock" and do the across the board fuel input change.

I have tuned Jap cars for a long time and know the value of 128 or 256 grid detail of change for making pin point fuel/timing adjustment to smoothen out a curve.

I just was trying to stay away from the hack and slash method on the bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Immortal:

I had a go at it, but didn't get far. That is, I never got anything that looked like the correct dialog screen on the instrument panel. My guess is that I did not properly ground the wire in question (I'm not a mechanic).

I'm spending a little money at Snap-on, and may take another shot . . . but I'd sorta like to have at least more consults with folks who have actually done this.

Let me know what you wind up doing.

My best,

Mark
 

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Adrenalin Junky
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I agree with you, Mark.. I think I would like to hear from someone that has already done this before!

Question: When adding a Slip-On; Stacks; K&N; custom RAM-Air; etc. Would this make the bike run richer or leaner?

--I'm going to venture to say, Leaner since the bike is able to suck in more fresh air.. correct?

Mark618 said:
Immortal:

I had a go at it, but didn't get far. That is, I never got anything that looked like the correct dialog screen on the instrument panel. My guess is that I did not properly ground the wire in question (I'm not a mechanic).

I'm spending a little money at Snap-on, and may take another shot . . . but I'd sorta like to have at least more consults with folks who have actually done this.

Let me know what you wind up doing.

My best,

Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Imm:

Re stacks, slip-on, etc.: If you are doing all that, you are increasing air flow and, I would say, air amount, so, yes, it's going to be leaner. (There will also be less back pressure.) While you might be able to run it lean, who would want to? Lean bikes are run hotter, and they don't make for the best rideability.

I've never had fuel injection on a bike before, but from what I gather from the smart guys on this Forum and from some ads, a lot of slip-on manufacturers will give you/sell you the appropraite maps for the systems they make. I bet, for instance, an outfit like Graves will give the soup to nuts treatment.

My best,

Mark
 

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Insanity Please
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I originally got this information off another European Yamaha site.
I posted this info below in another forum and this isn't an R1, but will give you and idea on what adjustability there is with the stock ECU on a FJR1300:

CO Einstellmodus FJR 1300

With the CO Einstellmodus the CO value (injection amount) can be adjusted.

So, and now, as one arrives into the mode:

1. SELECT and RESET keep pressed and turn ignition switch on.
2. After 8 seconds DIAG appears in the display
3. Use SELECT presses and it changes into the CO mode
4. LCD indicates CO SELECT and RESETS keep pressed for at least 2 seconds, in order to change into the adjusting mode
5. Display indicates a cylinder number
6. SELECT (high) or RESETS (down) for at least 2 seconds keeps pressed, in order to select the cylinder number
7. By pressing SELECT or RESET you may select numbers between -128 and +126. IT IS A
GOOD TIME NOW TO RECORD THE ORIGINAL VALUES!!
8. Pressing RESET reduces the injection amount pressures of SELECT increases the injection amount.

The longer it is held, the values increase/reduced automatically.

Like already in the error code table (code: pointed 30 and 31 out, the value can be changed not at will.

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Not sure what that last line meant. As to the rest, it doesn't state what number corresponds to .4% CO level either, so I don't recommend changing it unless you have a EGA around. Once someone comes up with some good numbers (and maybe some dyno runs at different settings ) we can start fooling with it.

I pulled this information from a Web site last May. Hope this helps...








FJR-1300 Service Codes

Access the service mode by holding in the two buttons on the LCD display and then switching on the ignition Continue to hold the buttons for 8 Seconds. You can cycle though the different modes by pressing the select button. To quit just turn off the ignition.

11 Cylinder identification sensor failure
12 Crankshaft position sensor failure
13 Intake pressure sensor failure
14 Intake pressure sensor pipeline failure
15 Throttle position sensor wire disconnected or short-circuited
16 Throttle position sensor stuck
21 Water temperature sensor failure
22 Intake temperature sensor failure
23 Atmospheric pressure sensor failure
24 Oxygen sensor failure
30 Lean angle cut-off switch activated
31 Maximum allowable Oxygen sensor correction level exceeded
32 Oxygen sensor correction level too low
41 Lean angle cut-off switch disconnected or short-circuited
42 Vehicle speed sensor or neutral switch failure
43 Monitor voltage -- less than 3v
44 ECU failure

Code 31
The amount of air-fuel ratio feedback compensation is maintained continuously in the vicinity of the upper limit (lean air-fuel ratio)
Probable cause of malfunction
Open or short circuit in wiring harness
Fuel pressure too low
Clogged injectors
Defective O2 Sensor (unable to output a rich signal)
Malfunction in ECU
Malfunction in other areas of the fuel system
Code 32
The amount of air-fuel ratio feedback compensation is maintained continuously in the vicinity of the lower limit (rich air-fuel ratio)
Probable cause of malfunction
Open or short circuit in wiring harness
Fuel pressure too high
Faulty injectors (excessive injection volume)
Defective O2 Sensor (unable to output a lean signal)
Malfunction in ECU
Malfunction in other areas of the fuel system



Supposedly, if you think you have made a complete cock-up of the settings, remove the power lead off of the battery and the ECU should reset to factory defaults.

This is just to give you an idea, you play with the settings at your own risk.

Cheers Warp.
 

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**Supposedly, if you think you have made a complete cock-up of the settings, remove the power lead off of the battery and the ECU should reset to factory defaults. **

According to the mechanic who made the adjustments to my bike, this is probabely not correct. At least on the R1 the settings of fuel/air mix should not be reset by removing the power to the ECU.

They do this mod on every Superstock race bike they work on, and they very often remove the battery without having to change the settings again. And they have never seen any resets happen.

But he thought it was an interresting question, and he asked me to come down to the shop and test it out (as soon as the snow melts here) just to be 100% sure. Unfortunately that may take some more weeks......
 

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2BTHE1
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one&only, you have got to get some good instructions for us on how to do it. I do not intend to do it without being on a dyno where I can monitor the air/fuel ratio... Please try to get the exact procedure.

Thanks... Yon
 

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soon I will have full acess to a dynojet dyno for about 3wks I am a student at mmi. and I will defnitely play with this and post the results. Be patient I wont be in that class for at least 6wks. But maybe I can see if I can get in there early to do some runs. 2003 r1 Bone stock
 
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