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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok as promised to some people on the forum heres how I did my AIS to crankcase breather mod. Note this is more of a "how I DID IT" not so much a "how TO".

Step 1... Make your life easier and remove the gas tank, but you won't have to. You'll need to prop it up at least.

Step 2... Remove your air filter, and disconnect the hoses going into the airbox.

Step 3... Plug the 2 hose ports going into the airbox (I used a simple vacume block off plugs I got my local automotive store). See pics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Now your next goal is to remove the AIS solenoid and either replace it with a "T" pipe plumbing or make a block off plate... to do this, this is what I did... Note other may have easier ways.

Step 6... Remove ECU and plate.

Step 7... remove plate at bottom of airbox (note theres a clip in the middle but mines already plugged from a later step). Theres a second clip that holds the throttle cables up from undernieth... these are circled... the plate should simply pull up
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Step 9... remove the heat shield... there are 2 button pins underneith the side panels holding it in... Note you do not need to remove the panels just take off the top row of bolts and then pull back a little as seen in these pics.


Left side
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Now pull your heat sheild back so you can get at the AIS solenoid.

Ok this is where my photos get bad because I don't want to rip anymore of the stuff off for this how to...

You can simply replace the solenoid with a block off plate from the T pipe like I did. (i used aluminum from an old hard drive LOL)...

Or you can go buy a T pipe and put it in.

I have circled whats left of mine in the picture... you can see a hint of the block off plate on the top... Also removing this solenoid will NOT cause an engine light... so just disconnect it.
 

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see you at the races and ride
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great how-to and pics.
for those of you who do this make sure you remove the ais solenoid as decribed above so you don't dead head the crankcase.
Let us know if the bike runs or sounds different.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Sounds the same as blocking off the ais (smog plates etc). You will have to clean the reed valves every so often though... I think one person recommended 4000 miles or so... i'll be ripping mine down in the winter and showing what they look like after 2000 kms... when I did strip this down there was a very small amout of oil trapped in the joiner. It has a few extra ponies at the top end now... actually the 2nd dyno run (roll on) is always a few horse power higher throughout the entire curve, I assume this is because the first run built up a vacume in the crank, or it may just be coincidents. Now it looks like the oil hose possibly kinks from time to time so I think over winter i'm going to run strong high temp oil hose inbetween the two points to stop this. All in all I believe this works great.
 

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My next project will be to weld in a small (3/8") tube into the exhaust in the midpipe at a 60 dgree (or so) angle. Then pipe that to the breather hose. This should provide constant vacuum that increases with load, and nothing to clean.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Nice but then wouldn't you need some sort of 1 way valve to do what the reed valves do? that way you won't loose pressure from the crankcase as fast, and it will allow it to build up more? Someone posted a link to the company that makes them but they want 100 bucks for it.
 
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