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I wouldn’t worry about his or her bike across the globe, rather look at before and after on your own bike. This is all that matters
 

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kickin' at the darkness
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From German bike Mag PS dyno test (and comparison with S1000RR) the R1 made 204 bhp In Euro spec.

^^ this is exactly why dyno numbers and the arguments there after on forums end
up making no sense at all.. What do you mean by a PS dyno test?

you do realize there is no way to test for Brake Horse Power on a dyno! bhp IS at
the crank, so is the engine coming off the bike?

all you can possibly test for and verify on a dyno is Rear Wheel HP... actually
you're not even testing hp as thats a mathematical equation, a dyno can only
measure torque curves at the rear wheel, therefore the resulting HP is purely
at the wheel.. Are they using mathematics to add what losses are present?

hate to be the devils advocate here, but there's a reason these terms exist..
 

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Was thinking about the reply I made while out riding yesterday. Realized that I was looking at the wrong map. Fueling map wasn't the correct thing to be looking at. It's the ETV maps that I should have been looking at. And yes, there's a reduction past 12500 RPM. This is a screenshot of the ETV PWR1 and PWR2 basemap #0 throttle values compared with the euro throttle values. If you're feeling so inclined, you can copy the Euro throttle values onto your own throttle values maps and see how it works out for you. Also, the cut goes to 88.22% at 12500 RPM. It drops to 82.33% past 13000 RPM. So that might be where your "losses" are coming from. I wouldn't sweat over the last few hundred RPMs, but to each their own.
1009640
 

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Forget the fancy expressions dude. The bimmer was more powerful, and although there could be some scientific differences in the way horse power is measured - it was concluded the bike made slightly more than the spec given by Yamaha. Anyway, PS is the German “Superbike Magazine” Over there they actually ride the bikes fast on daily basis. Not like in many places where Traffic is hardly moving -and you need no HP at all to speak of :)))
 

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kickin' at the darkness
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Forget the fancy expressions dude. The bimmer was more powerful,
the fancy expressions although boring, have their purpose, they are technical terms
and exist for a reason. Mostly because there are no apples nor oranges involved
in building motorcycles.

The question was sepecifically if anybody had gotten the new R1 on the dyno..
that means taking the bike, riding it onto, and subsequently strapping said bike
on a dyno that will read rear wheel torque and through mathematics produce
an HP response curve, which has purdy little numbers. I'm pretty sure OP
was specifically targeting joe blow R1-forum members, not just another bloody
magazine, which we already know work for the big guns. If magazine X has
a hard one for Y motorcycle, every damn article tends to swing that way, its not
very uncommon.

you responded with 20x bhp.. that is not a rwhp dyno figure... i dont give a shit
what the bimmer 'scored' in that contest. That was never the point but then
its exactly what always happens in these threads.. Either read the question
or dont, but quit posting nonsense. Do you mean to tell us to go get a bimmer
(please quit calling them that. BMW has less letters), toss it on the dyno and
once that number is available, surmise the R1 makes slightly less, under every
damn situation on earth, everywhere regardless of time of year? LMFAO..

you basically have no actual clue as to how they arrived at the number.. hence why
the initial responses above arguing against the process in the 1st place. fact is you
didnt answer the question, just went off on some tangent rant braggin' about the bmw..

get over yourself and PS sport, unless they're removing the engine from the fvcking
bikes they cant claim BHP. Nobody cares what the engine itself puts out while its
sitting on a bloody bench, you're never gonna ride it that way.

they gave you that "number", likely cause they already know their dyno is not very accurate.

oh yeah, thank god nobody calls it an R1er or a CBRer, meanwhile there's plenty of
bimmers & gixxers around dude! LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I like the quiet power of my R1, I think if I took out the cats it would "strike a nerve" in drivers and cops. But I was thinking of removing the cats and keeping the stock pipe.
 

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Discussion Starter #28 (Edited)
I did some long-shifting experiments today, the 2020 bike loses serious power after it passes 13.0K rpm. Shifting from 5th to 6th at 162mph will slow the bike with my draggy 365lb ass on it. And just as I was about getting ready to plan an FTECU flashkit purchase, the stock ECU seems lost its traction control feature and gives no indications of this on the panel or YRC, so now a warranty issue has popped up with the ECU I'm afraid of the flashkit.
 

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I did some long-shifting experiments today, the 2020 bike loses serious power after it passes 13.0K rpm. Shifting from 5th to 6th at 162mph will slow the bike with my draggy 365lb ass on it. And just as I was about getting ready to plan an FTECU flashkit purchase the ECU seems lost its traction control feature and gives no indications of this on the panel or YRC, so now a warranty issue has popped up with the ECU I'm afraid of the flashkit.
That interesting. It looks like Yamaha did some work on that ECU for 2020. Or maybe FTECU needs some time to come up with a new map that retains the traction control feature.

If I'm not mistaken, my 2018 still retained the traction control and all of the other ECU features after the FTECU flash.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
That interesting. It looks like Yamaha did some work on that ECU for 2020. Or maybe FTECU needs some time to come up with a new map that retains the traction control feature.

If I'm not mistaken, my 2018 still retained the traction control and all of the other ECU features after the FTECU flash.
I have no FTECU kit nor have I flashed my bike... I think lubing my chain on the Pit Bull caused erronous traction control data to the ECU and crashed their traction control module in the ECU. If I had a FTECU kit I probably could fix it by reflashing it with even the stock image but I don't.
 

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I have no FTECU kit nor have I flashed my bike... I think lubing my chain on the Pit Bull caused erronous traction control data to the ECU and crashed their traction control module in the ECU. If I had a FTECU kit I probably could fix it by reflashing it with even the stock image but I don't.
lol sorry I was a bit high earlier and completely misread your post.

Yeah, I agree. I would get the bike checked out before flashing. Maybe give FTECU about a year or so before you flash it. That way they can work out the "kinks" if they have any in the near future.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
I spoke with FTECU about when the 2020 r1 flash kit is coming out and they said probably late January. I will call tomorrow and ask if they managed to "fix" the ABS bug.
 

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I like the quiet power of my R1, I think if I took out the cats it would "strike a nerve" in drivers and cops. But I was thinking of removing the cats and keeping the stock pipe.
Most of the noise reduction is done in the cats. Changing to a slip on isn't going to do too much for exhaust noise. Mostly pitch, not magnitude.
I have no FTECU kit nor have I flashed my bike... I think lubing my chain on the Pit Bull caused erronous traction control data to the ECU and crashed their traction control module in the ECU. If I had a FTECU kit I probably could fix it by reflashing it with even the stock image but I don't.
Not certain what bug you're referring to. Throwing the bike on a stand, turning it on and throwing it into first to spin the wheel because you're too lazy to do it by hand (clutch in of course) will cause the abs to throw a light. Just ride it for a bit and it'll clear/recalibrate itself. I was a bit surprised the first time my (now previous gen) R1 did it to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Most of the noise reduction is done in the cats. Changing to a slip on isn't going to do too much for exhaust noise. Mostly pitch, not magnitude.

Not certain what bug you're referring to. Throwing the bike on a stand, turning it on and throwing it into first to spin the wheel because you're too lazy to do it by hand (clutch in of course) will cause the abs to throw a light. Just ride it for a bit and it'll clear/recalibrate itself. I was a bit surprised the first time my (now previous gen) R1 did it to me.
Well I have no idea what else could had gone wrong that caused my TCS to not work... It is BADLY not working, I can easily make the rear tire rooster tail without hesitation whereas before I was feeling the TCS kick in like ignition cuts and it was kind of jerky but it would save me from a full highside if coming out of a corner if I spun the rear tire, as I have done on the racetrack a few times without crashing but on the street I would be hopeless without the TCS.
 

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Well I have no idea what else could had gone wrong that caused my TCS to not work... It is BADLY not working, I can easily make the rear tire rooster tail without hesitation whereas before I was feeling the TCS kick in like ignition cuts and it was kind of jerky but it would save me from a full highside if coming out of a corner if I spun the rear tire, as I have done on the racetrack a few times without crashing but on the street I would be hopeless without the TCS.
Have you tried resetting the YRC settings back to their defaults? Maybe you changed a setting that disabled the slide control or traction control. Also, highside coming out of a slide is if you cut throttle and/or hit brakes before you regain the rear wheel alignment with the front wheel. If you manage to slide before you get to the bottom of this, I'd be wary about slamming that throttle shut to stop the slide.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
I
Have you tried resetting the YRC settings back to their defaults? Maybe you changed a setting that disabled the slide control or traction control. Also, highside coming out of a slide is if you cut throttle and/or hit brakes before you regain the rear wheel alignment with the front wheel. If you manage to slide before you get to the bottom of this, I'd be wary about slamming that throttle shut to stop the slide.
I did reset the YRC settings and the TCS is still not physically activating, even though the dash says its fine. I think its an ECU glitch with the TCS module of coding crashing. I don't think it is a sensor because the speedometer is working fine.
 

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I did reset the YRC settings and the TCS is still not physically activating, even though the dash says its fine. I think its an ECU glitch with the TCS module of coding crashing. I don't think it is a sensor because the speedometer is working fine.
My last stab at it would be to disconnect the battery for a few minutes and then reconnect it to see if that can cause the ECU to reboot and clear memory. Hopefully the ECU doesn't have a backup battery. Maybe you managed to hit a stack overflow condition. No idea what the actual cause is. This is what happens when you live on bleeding edge. I thought I was being slick by getting a 2018 in 2019, only to be announced into previous gen ownership within six months of owning my R1. Can't win them all, I guess.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
My last stab at it would be to disconnect the battery for a few minutes and then reconnect it to see if that can cause the ECU to reboot and clear memory. Hopefully the ECU doesn't have a backup battery. Maybe you managed to hit a stack overflow condition. No idea what the actual cause is. This is what happens when you live on bleeding edge. I thought I was being slick by getting a 2018 in 2019, only to be announced into previous gen ownership within six months of owning my R1. Can't win them all, I guess.
I did try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes already, no fix. I rode half of today with no TCS... I'm washing my bike after riding down dirt roads.
 
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