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Discussion Starter #41
My dad died of cancer. Why are you calling me a moron if you don't know whats wrong with my TCS either?

You're such a moron. You have to be the dumbest motorcycle rider ever. Go tell daddy that you need a Gixxer!
 

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Can someone tell me why the euro spec bikes make more power than the US spec bikes? I thought it was the YCCT shutting down. I saw a CCU imposed R1M video where it was every single straight showing the throttle going consistantly from 100% to 88% after he hit 12,500rpm. I thought I saw a FTECU chart that said YCCT (in a really long FTECU thread) that showed the same thing but 86% or 85%. My goal is to get full power from the bike but I thought it was through the YCCT position.

This is how it is for the 15-19 bikes too, they can't pass noise control without doing all this. The EXUP valve probably doesn't open until 7500 too, then there is the intake flapper.......

Get it flashed, no more worries. Gotta warn you though, these bikes are really loud with a pipe because they don't have exhaust pulses cancelling each other out in the pipe. Some see this as a benefit, some don't. If you are looking for a great deal on a very high quality full titanium system, Kyle Racing sells the ARATA pipe for about $1350. Longer can, is still very loud compared to my GSXR1000. I'd rate it's quality at or better than Akrapovic, $1350 would only get you a 3/4 system from Akrapovic though.... not that it matters much-the stock headers are good.
 

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Nevermore
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Stereotyped wth being owned and ridden by squids and usually 90% of the time its true.
 

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...because nobody has ever been a squid on an R1, a CBR or a ZX10, Ever.... I can tell you with absolute certainty that I was a squid back in '99 when I got my first R1 - I rode it like a complete twat!

Meanwhile, I did almost 800 miles in 2 days on my GSXR1000K5 in the Ozark Mountains and then another 800 miles in the mountains in WV in the last year. Done track days on an older GSXR, took my R1M to the Tail of the Dragon, and it was a terrible bike for that particular bit of road.

Gotta be careful with that wide brush we tend to swing.
 

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Nevermore
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Don't take it so seriously. It was just a popular squid bike back in the day. It seems the BMW1000rr has been taking that title as of late.
 

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What's wrong with Gixxers?
Nothing wrong with the bike when it comes to design. Very resilient transmissions. It's the fact that a lot of their owners were negligent and either starved the engine of oil or didn't do maintenance, then tried to pawn their mistakes off on the surrounding community (kind of like the Honda scene). The guys it got pawned off on thought they were getting a good deal, swore up and down the bike could take a beating (probably due to dumping their life savings to acquire the bike and not having reserve funds for maintenance), and repeated the cycle until the bike was even more messed up. This leads up to how everyone says used gixxers are trash. Because more often than not, the bike being sold isn't well maintained.
I've personally done a first valve adjustment on a 100k+ miles K5. The owner didn't know valve adjustments were a thing, just that his bike was not running as good anymore. That was a fun learning experience. The guy ended up at the limit for his tappets and had to rebuild his head on his next valve adjustment, but the bike was fine with PROPER maintenance. Which he began believing in after his first valve adjustment.
 

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LoL, mine gets it's proper maintenance-and it's due for a valve adjustment. I learned about 10 years ago that I can scratch a wheel or strip a bolt head just as well as a dealership monkey and always attempt to do something first before paying for the privelege of having someone else scratch my bike up. I don't treat them like Fabrege Eggs or anything, but every. single. time. I have had a bike in for service I noticed scratches..... like on my $2200 carbon R1 side fairing.

Tell that guy to get either a Bazazz ZFI-TC or GripOne TC unit-makes the bike a lot more fun! I installed the Bazzaz unit myself and got everything working about 12 years ago, wanting to try the more sophisticated GripOne unit-it's made by Diego Gubellini, the electronics guy for the Estrella Galicia MotoGP team. Not too expensive either.
 

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Tell that guy to get either a Bazazz ZFI-TC or GripOne TC unit-makes the bike a lot more fun! I installed the Bazzaz unit myself and got everything working about 12 years ago, wanting to try the more sophisticated GripOne unit-it's made by Diego Gubellini, the electronics guy for the Estrella Galicia MotoGP team. Not too expensive either.
I'm more of a flashtune/FTECU guy myself. Got the flashing harness a while back when I owned a R6. The flashing harness worked for all the Yamahas I had to deal with (other people's bikes), so I stuck to FTECU being the more cost efficient option. To get my R1 up to speed, I only needed to buy a $50 bike side harness and a $100 license. The added benefit of flashing is that you don't need to install extra electronic components. I don't require a lot of the control that the track guys do, so I didn't need to buy into the more expensive FTECU licenses. I prefer flashing over piggyback, but each route offers their own merits, otherwise they wouldn't last on the market after all this time. Glad you found what works for you though!
 

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Nothing wrong with the bike when it comes to design. Very resilient transmissions. It's the fact that a lot of their owners were negligent and either starved the engine of oil or didn't do maintenance, then tried to pawn their mistakes off on the surrounding community (kind of like the Honda scene). The guys it got pawned off on thought they were getting a good deal, swore up and down the bike could take a beating (probably due to dumping their life savings to acquire the bike and not having reserve funds for maintenance), and repeated the cycle until the bike was even more messed up. This leads up to how everyone says used gixxers are trash. Because more often than not, the bike being sold isn't well maintained.
I've personally done a first valve adjustment on a 100k+ miles K5. The owner didn't know valve adjustments were a thing, just that his bike was not running as good anymore. That was a fun learning experience. The guy ended up at the limit for his tappets and had to rebuild his head on his next valve adjustment, but the bike was fine with PROPER maintenance. Which he began believing in after his first valve adjustment.
my gixxer a 03 1000 just turned 154,000
great machines.
 

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I did some long-shifting experiments today, the 2020 bike loses serious power after it passes 13.0K rpm. Shifting from 5th to 6th at 162mph will slow the bike with my draggy 365lb ass on it. And just as I was about getting ready to plan an FTECU flashkit purchase, the stock ECU seems lost its traction control feature and gives no indications of this on the panel or YRC, so now a warranty issue has popped up with the ECU I'm afraid of the flashkit.
You don’t have to flash your ecu and your tc isn’t broke. When you tripped the error code the bike goes into a safe mode which disables the dash option to make changes to the electronics. You can either get a obd2 scanner and adaptor and clear it yourself. Or just take it back to your dealer and they can clear it. As it’s a new bike they really shouldn’t charge you for it and it only takes a couple of minutes.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
You don’t have to flash your ecu and your tc isn’t broke. When you tripped the error code the bike goes into a safe mode which disables the dash option to make changes to the electronics. You can either get a obd2 scanner and adaptor and clear it yourself. Or just take it back to your dealer and they can clear it. As it’s a new bike they really shouldn’t charge you for it and it only takes a couple of minutes.
I decided to wait a year on the FTECU flash kit to make sure there are no more problems with the bike before I potentially void the warranty. I really with the US models weren't so restricted.

I hope their reset fixes my traction control.
 

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I decided to wait a year on the FTECU flash kit to make sure there are no more problems with the bike before I potentially void the warranty. I really with the US models weren't so restricted.

I hope their reset fixes my traction control.
guess I'm not understanding what the issue is. If you are saying your traction control doesn't work then take the bike back to your dealer to have it looked at. The bikes just came out so why not take it in? As for waiting a year, it depends on what you do with your bike. If you change the exhaust and remove the cat , change the air filter, etc....... that stuff you are probably going to want to have your fueling adjusted for that else the bike is going to run a bit rough
 

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I'm more of a flashtune/FTECU guy myself. Got the flashing harness a while back when I owned a R6. The flashing harness worked for all the Yamahas I had to deal with (other people's bikes), so I stuck to FTECU being the more cost efficient option. To get my R1 up to speed, I only needed to buy a $50 bike side harness and a $100 license. The added benefit of flashing is that you don't need to install extra electronic components. I don't require a lot of the control that the track guys do, so I didn't need to buy into the more expensive FTECU licenses. I prefer flashing over piggyback, but each route offers their own merits, otherwise they wouldn't last on the market after all this time. Glad you found what works for you though!
We might be talking past each other here-you can't use FT to give a 14 year old GSXR IMU based traction control.....LoL!
 

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Discussion Starter #55 (Edited)
I just hit the first sign of cord under broken rubber on my stock RS11 tires... 1267mi, time to get my Q4's to the dealer and have them fix it when they install the tires. I'm hoping to get 2,500mi or more out of the Dunlop Q4's, I know I could get 3,500mi on a 1000cc bike on the 2007 version of Dunlop race tires.
 

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I think you are going to find that with modern rubber, particularly street/track compounds that they will be more sensitive to pressure than what you remember in terms of both feel and longevity. The stock RS10's cold shear badly at recommended pressures and wear the usual squid flat spot in very short order. I noticed early on that when I was just riding around on the RS10's that they would have fine hairs oriented width wise, sort of like pencil eraser shavings, but when I would get them hot riding out on country roads hard with friends they didn't do this. I started playing with pressures and as I dropped them the feel got noticeably better and I virtually eliminated the flat spotting. Some of that is down to carcass flex, but also even wear afforded by a bike with really good electronics.

Still, I get between 1900 and 2200 miles out of an RS10 rear and not quite two rears per front. I love these tires but after 4 sets in less than 10k miles, the inconvenience of never being more than a few months away from having to take wheels off and back to the dealer I had to switch. I got really good results from S21's on my GSXR and started out about 5psi low on those. They felt good out of the box and the rear is evenly roached to the wear bars so I think they are about right for my pace and life expectation-they made 3 seasons on a bike with a lot more midrange than the R1M. So, when it came time to put new tires on the Yamaha it really wasn't a choice. Well, it was-the S22's had just come out and that's what's on the bike now. Did about half a season and I'm starting to see wear now-these are supposed to be an improvement in all areas over the S22's, which is no small feat..... Once warm I have a hard time telling them from the RS10's, other than that the carcass is firmer and you don't get the feeling you can ride like a moron on cold tires.

Honestly, I'd give the S22's a shot-they aren't super expensive if you end up not liking them.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
I think Yamaha might have had my rear tire out of alignment from the dealer. I didn't fix this until 626mi. I don't know how much it accelerated wear, if any... but I'm showing cord at 1270mi. Not one burnout. I'm guessing it will take 2,500mi on the Q4's to the same wear level, the thread is a lot deeper and the rubber might be tougher. I was pretty impressed with the RS11 traction though, but I don't have any roads near me I can really throw over hard, but I barely wore over the edges of the rear tire at 34.5psi and my body weight of 360lbs without the tires feeling close to losing traction. I've been getting on the gas pretty hard where I was expecting some slippage. They aren't slipping over pain stripes either, at least since I got the sides worn in.
 

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I think Yamaha might have had my rear tire out of alignment from the dealer. I didn't fix this until 626mi. I don't know how much it accelerated wear, if any... but I'm showing cord at 1270mi. Not one burnout. I'm guessing it will take 2,500mi on the Q4's to the same wear level, the thread is a lot deeper and the rubber might be tougher. I was pretty impressed with the RS11 traction though, but I don't have any roads near me I can really throw over hard, but I barely wore over the edges of the rear tire at 34.5psi and my body weight of 360lbs without the tires feeling close to losing traction. I've been getting on the gas pretty hard where I was expecting some slippage. They aren't slipping over pain stripes either, at least since I got the sides worn in.
I suspect that your pressures are on the low side, maybe not, because at your weight the warm pressures will be in a more normal range for RS10's-sort of like riding 2-up for most folks when you get them up to a good pace. I liked 36-37 and got fairly uniform wear with no flat wear in the center-I weigh 185-190 without gear.

But yeah, RS10's feel like getting away with murder when cold and corner like a cat on carpet when warm..... too bad they have the lifespan of a fruit-fly. I guess the equivalent SuperCorsa SP-Whatever has the same problem, but offering different feel. Traditionally the SuperCorsas have a more flexible carcass for more feel and warning before they let go. That may be the case but the RS10's are the first tires I have ever had that exhibited those characteristics.
 

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I hated the Bridgestone tires on my R1 and S1KR. I've swapped to Power RS on both and that improved feel. I also liked the tip in better when it came to the Power RS's. I've heard that the RS doesn't give you warning before they let go, but I only have experienced that on cold tires. To each their own in regards to tire choice.

I was used to running tire pressures in the low 30s in the canyons, but recently bumped up to 42 and it seems to be better in the corners for me. I'm 190 without the gear. Never noticed anything unusual with the wear on the tires that the R1M came with through that pressure range, until I ran that nail into it around 2500 miles and swapped out to RS's. There was no cord showing like how you mentioned with your tires. I doubt that tire pressures is where your tire life is hemorrhaging from.

I'm guessing the misaligned tire was what did it. Look into upgrading to Lightech chain adjusters when they release for the 2020 model. That should be a relatively easy method of checking your tire alignment. It's finer in click measurements and also easier to align both sides than stock. You should also be checking your tires for abnormal wear marks (different from what you already have on the tire) about 5 miles in after every chain adjustment to see if there are any abnormal wear marks. My favorite way of thinking about it is that the porters and mechanics aren't exactly paid to make sure everything is in good order - they're paid to make sure everything looks in good order. So it's up to end user to make sure the bike is actually in good order.
Oh yeah, side note: the bolts the Lightech comes with are as soft as a baby's ass. Take care not overtorque them if you're installing yourself. Use loctite.
 
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