Anyone Installed ConvertiBars on R1
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The only thing I've read is that frequently, they require modified (lengthened) cables, due to the repositioning (raised) of the throttle & clutch, and there are cases where there is interference with the inner fairing panels :yesnodmotoed said:Gang
Have any of you installed ConvertiBars on your R1?
I'm trying to now and would like some info from someone who has already done the job.
Hope, someone is out there.
TIA
MotoEd
You may want to look at adjustable clip-ons as an alternative, they may provide the improvements your looking for without the added expense of cables :thumbup
Yeah, I put them on and have used them for several thousand miles now.
They work as advertissed. They require some time to get installed properly. They will hit the inner fairing if not adjusted correctly.
I did have to buy the longer cables.
I've been using them in the almost down position, about a inch taller than normal.
If you only need to raise the bars a little, then heli bars or other options may be what you need.
If you want to raise them where you can sit straight up, they are the thing.
I just did two 400+ mile days and am not a happy camper.
I could hardly walk or move my arms after day two. I did not raise the bars to the more upright sitting position. Also, I was wearing a backpack for the first time and that could have worsened the ride. I've ridden 250 and 300 mile days and never felt like this.
Right, now I'm going back to riding the FZ1.
MotoEd of the ouch it hurts Klan
They work as advertissed. They require some time to get installed properly. They will hit the inner fairing if not adjusted correctly.
I did have to buy the longer cables.
I've been using them in the almost down position, about a inch taller than normal.
If you only need to raise the bars a little, then heli bars or other options may be what you need.
If you want to raise them where you can sit straight up, they are the thing.
I just did two 400+ mile days and am not a happy camper.
I could hardly walk or move my arms after day two. I did not raise the bars to the more upright sitting position. Also, I was wearing a backpack for the first time and that could have worsened the ride. I've ridden 250 and 300 mile days and never felt like this.
Right, now I'm going back to riding the FZ1.
MotoEd of the ouch it hurts Klan
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21 Posts
I've installed ConvertiBars on my 2004 R1 and they work very well, but require some effort to achieve the full benefit.
I fitted the 10-degree bars with 6.5-inch risers. To get anywhere near the maximum height required the extended clutch cable from ConvertiBars as well as an extended brake line that I purchased from Spiegler. (The extended clutch cable isn't as slick as the stocker. There is sometimes a perceived lag in the clutch action with this cable, particularly when the bike is cold.
Fitting the bars also required a pair of spacers that I fabricated to raise the back of the nose fairing to provide clearance for the higher bars. This works reaosnably well, though it distorts the front of the fairng in the headlight area.
Perhaps the biggest challenge was coming up with a new mount for the steering damper that normally bolts to an extension from the bottom of the left stock clip-on. I ended up buying a steering damper mount from Storz, but this didn't work because the centerline of the hole to which the steering damper mounted was too close to the fork tube centerline. The solution was to weld a 1/2-inch square hunk of aluminum rod to the Storz mount and space the damper mounting hole further out. This worked perfectly.
Otherwsie, I also had to relocate the throttle cables from ahead of the forks to behind them. Same for the wiring from the handlebar switch modules.
It was all worth it, however. With the bars pulled back and set as high as they will go, the bars are actaully too high for highway use. At 80 mph, you are being blown off the bike. However, dropped down a bit, they feel very good, both on the highway and in the twisties.
I recently completed a four-day 1600-mile trip on the bike and the handlebar position was very comfortable.
Now I need to lower the pegs to create some more leg room.
I fitted the 10-degree bars with 6.5-inch risers. To get anywhere near the maximum height required the extended clutch cable from ConvertiBars as well as an extended brake line that I purchased from Spiegler. (The extended clutch cable isn't as slick as the stocker. There is sometimes a perceived lag in the clutch action with this cable, particularly when the bike is cold.
Fitting the bars also required a pair of spacers that I fabricated to raise the back of the nose fairing to provide clearance for the higher bars. This works reaosnably well, though it distorts the front of the fairng in the headlight area.
Perhaps the biggest challenge was coming up with a new mount for the steering damper that normally bolts to an extension from the bottom of the left stock clip-on. I ended up buying a steering damper mount from Storz, but this didn't work because the centerline of the hole to which the steering damper mounted was too close to the fork tube centerline. The solution was to weld a 1/2-inch square hunk of aluminum rod to the Storz mount and space the damper mounting hole further out. This worked perfectly.
Otherwsie, I also had to relocate the throttle cables from ahead of the forks to behind them. Same for the wiring from the handlebar switch modules.
It was all worth it, however. With the bars pulled back and set as high as they will go, the bars are actaully too high for highway use. At 80 mph, you are being blown off the bike. However, dropped down a bit, they feel very good, both on the highway and in the twisties.
I recently completed a four-day 1600-mile trip on the bike and the handlebar position was very comfortable.
Now I need to lower the pegs to create some more leg room.
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