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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All

I've done some work on my R1 over the winter to get it ready for the track. I've had the tank on and off several times and it no longer starts. I checked that I have 4 good sparks coming from the plugs. I've also removed the 4 primary injectors and bench tested them. They open and spray when I apply 12v to them.

I have put a voltmeter at each injector harness and get 12 volts when the key turns on as the fuel pump is priming. However, after removing the fuel rail and turning the key (and also trying to start it) I can see that no fuel sprays out of them.

The bike has a new battery and cranks hard and fast. I haven't done the fuel line mod but I have the tank up while testing so unless my fuel line is permanently kinked I don't think that is the problem. I'm not sure if TPS or crank sensor being off would cause this. I know it would mess with timing but I would assume that the injectors should still spray when you try to start the bike? Please correct me if I'm wrong.

I have pressure from the fuel pump but I don't know if it's enough. People on the forum mention measuring its PSI but even if I had the tool I wouldn't know where to connect it to (any advice in that area would be appreciated). I've also read that it could be the regulator - how do I check?

Thanks
Jason
 

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What mods do you gave on it?

Do you have any error codes displaying?

Can you get into diag mode and test (36 to 39) the injectors from there?

Do you have any fuel coming out from the tank at all (disconnect fuel line from sending unit and turn ignition on and off)

Sent from my SM-A305F using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The only mod I haven't reverted from is the smog block plates. I have double checked everything and I believe everything is connected properly.

I did a bit more testing and I think my fuel pressure is good. It sprays fuel everywhere when I turn the key. I will do more testing tomorrow after work and see what the diags say.

Again, I get 12 volts to the injectors when I turn the key but I don't think I get any voltage when I crank it. Is there something that is preventing the injectors from opening due to a safety reason (timing off etc...)
 

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64 degrees?? Pfff. I can do 90
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What year?
Aftermarket fuel controller?
Stock or flashed ECU?
Any error codes?

a video might help

Maybe someone near by can swap an ECU with you?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for replying @Aikuken amd @smergy

I have no errors on the display. I ran the diagnostics on all of the injectors and they click 5 times and the light on the display flashes as well.

I have good pressure from the fuel pump. One of my injector o-rings ripped while I was putting it back in so I have some fuel that sprays out when I turn the key and it primes the fuel pump. What I find odd is that when I am cranking it over, no fuel comes out and the fuel pump does not activate. It does activate when I run the diagnostics on it though. It's like something is telling the pump to not activate when I am trying to start it.

The bike is a 2013, it had a Bazzaz Z-FI that I removed to troubleshoot. The ECU is indeed flashed. I know nothing about ECUs but I assume that even with a flashed ECU I can revert back to stock fuel injection once I removed the Bazzaz unit?

Thanks guys.
 

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64 degrees?? Pfff. I can do 90
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Sounds like you've taken a logical set of steps to try and isolate the problem. If functionally the injectors work in diagnostics mode, I'd be curious to know if the bike runs if you manually spray some fuel (with a spray bottle) directly in the velocity stacks? This would tell us that yes it runs, and yes fuel coming from the injectors causing problem. At the very least it would prove your hypothesis. If it does run with manual fuel fed in, its hard to say what the injectors are being instructed to do during the start sequence.

If you have access to one, an oscilloscope (which usually sample in the 2+ Ghz range) could be useful. Run it in diag mode, monitoring an injector (or all 4), then run it starting the bike. This will compare the signal being sent to the injector under each case. Its possible the diagnostics and start sequence are not one in the same. I would then flash the ECU with the stock settings (save your current flash if you can) and run the same test again. This will give you the delta between the 3.

I think your right, seems like the ECU is not telling the injectors to spray. I haven't worked on a 2013 to be honest.

Chances are there is some input into the ECU preventing it from firing, as you've concluded. Perhaps try to find someone that can lend you an ECU. If it works you know its the ECU. If not, you know its an input to the ECU. Consider using another battery as well, e.g. a car/truck battery. I know a few bikes that refuse to start as soon as the voltage drops a bit, although you said it starts strong. Either way, start with the simple things first.

:( nothing worse than a bike not starting. Just a few ideas to help narrow it down further. A look at the wiring diagram may help as well, tip over sensors, blown fuses, kill switches, kick stands, faulty relays are the usual culprits.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It turned out to be the tip over sensor. Even though the diag passed the values at D1:08 put it as overturned.
 
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