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The Intern
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2,404 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am in the final stages of prepping my body work for the new paint job (hope I will shoot it on Sunday).

Have had to take a bunch of paint off since the previous owner seemed to love paint (the layer was about 2mm thick at least in some spots).
So some started to crack. I took sand paper to it and removed the bad areas.
Then, what I did was use bondo to make sure all denty spaces get evened out.

Here is my question, any tips on sanding the bondo? Mechanical tools to use? Or is it all manual by hand to be done best?
I want the plastics to look nice and even. Planning to make is all smooth tonite in prep for primer shoot.
If you have any time saving tips and techniques to remove excess bondo, would be glad to find out.

Also, after I ready the surface and prime it, it is necessary to get a paint adhesion promoter? It is like a sealer to help paint get stuck to the body. Any additional info to make the job right would be great.


Thanks.
 

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"Gort-Klaatu barada nikto!"
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3,197 Posts
I no pro mind you, but I have painted a few cars and bikes in my day and have turned out pretty nice according to others! Wet sand the parts with the foam sanding blocks you can get at auto paint store. Use a #400 then go to #600. They work great! Use a filler primer and then scuff it down with #600 again and spray sealer primer. PPG makes a good epoxy primer, but it's not cheap. Shouldn't need an adhesion promoter or Flex additive, I've never used it on bike parts. If your body work is getting flexed that bad, you got bigger problems! Try to do all your color/clear spraying in one day so it melt (adheres) together properly. It's easy to have it puddle in corners/recesses, so be easy in those areas. After you have sprayed the clear, wait a few days and wet sand with a block using #1000, then #1500, then #2000 if you really want to ease up on the buffing. Only takes light buffing then with a finish compound. Looks like glass! PPG is nice to work with! Painting bikes are a lot of work to do it right, especially tri colors! Like I said, I'm no pro though!

P.S.- Don't forget to wipe it down before you spray with some Prepsol on a low lint cloth followed after it dries, with a tack cloth.
 

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AK Road Racer
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646 Posts
fastest way to sand bondo is to get the majority of it while its drying and in a claylike stage. It just wipes away almost with some 40 grit, once its past that stage sanding takes a lot longer. but you can mold most of it in that stage if you work fast or do it in small sections.
 

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The Intern
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2,404 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Holy crap. No kidding with that bondo sanding. Just finished the front fender, tail and the lower. Leaving the upper (with very little bondo work) for tomorrow. The tank is in perfect shape, so I will just have to take it off, and scuff it for paint to adhere. Of Fri, planning to do the primer shoot.
Sunday is the day, the paint goes on then. Cant wait - but the freaking prep work is a biatch.

Hope it turns out. Will post pics after it is all done (hoping it will all be done after this Sunday).
 

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Ghostrider Squadron
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9,251 Posts
hand is best.. if piece has bondo on it.. then dont use something like 40 or 80 grit unless paint is really thick or bad. i use 220 or so. here is thing with bondo.. primer wont stick to it and it can peal or flake if bondo is too smooth. so when u get ready to prime it.. make sure u dont use like 5-600 on it. use 220 or so. get few mils of primer on it. then block sand it with something flat.. with 4-600 wet paper. depending on paint ur using, after this u may have to use sealer. some paints will left or peel over and breakin in primer. course if its race bike, and it doesnt have to be perfect.. then use ur best judgement there. what type of paint and primers sealers are u using?? if its laquer, then some paints and sealers will lift. alot of urethane stuff doesnt like laquer...why sometimes u have to use expoxy sealer like ppg DP sealer. but ask u paint place where u bought stuff. also first coat of paint... go easy.. if u put it on real wet or heavy...the solvents in it will soak into primers and sealers and cause them to lift. i normally put first coat on little dry and easy... let it flash as long as recommended, then put full wet coat on as 2nd coat.
 

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The Intern
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2,404 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
the paint is a urethane one. I am using a 220 now I think or 150. Tonite I will be using the sand block one last time to make sure it is all smooth. Will also try to detach the tank to scuff it up (paint on it is perfect so no strip will be needed).
Then, tomorrow, will be priming, then sanding one last time. Sunday is the big day for paint shoot. Then I hear after a few days you can wet sand and polish.
That is starting to be a lot of work. Hope it is worth it in the end.
 

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Ghostrider Squadron
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9,251 Posts
if u have info on paint, it should give u time for drying and wetsanding it. it should give u a time for baked or air dry. best thing is couple hours or day after paint, get it outside into some sunlight or even if its cloudy.. the UV will help cure it. some paints tell u to colorsand and buff it before 48 hours.. paint gets too hard.. it can still be done.. but just harded to do. be careful after painted on wetsanding.. dont wetsand edges... or ull go thru paint or go thru when ur buffing it. same thing with corners and rolled edges. good luck
 

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The Intern
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2,404 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Just got done all the prep work yesterday, and today I did the actual painting.
At first I thought it would run, but as you said, put the first coat easy then heavier coats. I think I got like 3 coats of clear on there. I think I have a couple small runs on the clear, but I am told it is sandable. I am leaving them hanging in the garage overnight. Tomorrow I will pick them up and will really be able to see how it came out. Hope to hell it came out ok. It was my first ever paint job. Took about 4 hours to paint the two colors and clear them all. Thanks for all the tips. Whatever happens, The paint stays....even if it turns out crappy. Will update with some pics of how it all turned out...managed to get some progress pics in too.
 

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Ghostrider Squadron
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9,251 Posts
congrats man.. runs and such like painting dry.. is all touch and feel.. temps can change how paint dries and such..more u do it, better and easier it is to get feel for it. yea runs can most be sanded out.. specially if u have 3 coats on there.. that should be plenty to allow to colorsand the blemishes out of it.
 
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