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Discussion Starter #1
So apparently I screwed up my stock cam chain tensioner..
Obviously I need to replace it.
I've decided to go with a manual one vs a hydraulic, reading that it's 'easier' to maintain.

Questions though:
Dealership told me if I did it myself, I'll need to replace the clutch cover bolts? Apparently it's a one time use thing? wtf?
Also, which website has the best deal on an APE or Graves?
And where can I find the clutch cover gasket? Google is throwing all sorts of crazy options, having a hard figuring out which route to go.....

And anyone know of a good Youtube video to follow? Everyone on Youtube is a 'pro', but who can I really trust?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Oh, it's a 2015 R1, recall was done a few months ago. Bought the bike in April with 600 miles on it, practically brand new...

So apparently I screwed up my stock cam chain tensioner..
Obviously I need to replace it.
I've decided to go with a manual one vs a hydraulic, reading that it's 'easier' to maintain.

Questions though:
Dealership told me if I did it myself, I'll need to replace the clutch cover bolts? Apparently it's a one time use thing? wtf?
Also, which website has the best deal on an APE or Graves?
And where can I find the clutch cover gasket? Google is throwing all sorts of crazy options, having a hard figuring out which route to go.....

And anyone know of a good Youtube video to follow? Everyone on Youtube is a 'pro', but who can I really trust?
 

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Oem is definitely less maintenance but the 15+ is tricky to reset and unlock if your taking it out n putting it back in. The em aluminum bolts are one time use or they might snap off. You might want to consider titanium or swapping them with steels of the R1S. Partshark or yamahasportsplaza are good places to order from you can lookup all your parts on the fiche. The graves tensioner is fine thread so it's easy to over tighten and to adjust it properly the process involves removing the valve cover which on a 15 requires draining the coolant and removing the radiator. The ape coarse thread units are easier to adjust and you can do it without removing the valve cover. It's not that hard to change but if you slip up and the cam jumps a tooth you run the risk of smashing valves into the piston and dicking the motor. I would consider just having a shop install it. For a reusable clutch cover gasket I believe YEC makes them but they might be called GYTR now depending who you talk to. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Doing to many wheelies while the oil is low is my assumption. I don't think the shop put enough oil in it when they did the recall work. (It had only been ridden about 1000-1500 miles after the recall work)

I went with an APE manual cam chain tensioner. Everything I've read is it's pretty simple to replace, but that's good to know to be mindful of the bolts.
Looking to replace it this weekend, fingers crossed everything goes smoothly.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
it was about a half quart low (per the shop)
No metal shavings in the oil. I think it was just low enough to screw up the hydraulic cct..
 

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That doesn't work like that. I have done motors for guys who stunt because they didn't change the oil pickup first. The cams go way before and the damage you see to the chain side is to the guides it hardly ever affects the tensioner. This tensioner is complicated and the last person to have it out probably messed it up. I'm not gonna get into explaining that because now you have the ape anyways so it should be fine. Let us know how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
That doesn't work like that. I have done motors for guys who stunt because they didn't change the oil pickup first. The cams go way before and the damage you see to the chain side is to the guides it hardly ever affects the tensioner. This tensioner is complicated and the last person to have it out probably messed it up. I'm not gonna get into explaining that because now you have the ape anyways so it should be fine. Let us know how it goes.
So you think the CCT going out is completely unrelated to the the oil being low?
What makes a CCT go out?
 

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Most the time I see them go bad it isn't really a complete fail where they let the chain slack off and it blows the motor. Either the spring inside that most of them have fails so it doesn't keep it pressed out when the motors off and when you start it, it will rattle for a few seconds. It can also get metal or carbon that was knocked loose or just general engine gunk from not doing enough maintenance lodges in it that will kinda cause the same thing or the oil feel hole can get semi plugged and cause it to have low pressure and it will rattle as well. Those are the normal causes. If it was taken out n put back in it has to be retracted fully and reinstalled then released. If it wasn't and pressure was on it or on the teeth when the bolts were tightened it cam bend the little pins or burr the teeth or scroll depending on what kind it is. Guys can also apply too much gasket sealer on it and have it get into the feed hole. It could also just possibly just be faulty. It happens once in a while. Is it a rattle on startup or all the time?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
It happens at start up.. at first it kind of went away after it warmed up, but it just rattles.

Back story to all this is that it died on me, temp reached about 240, completely died. Oddly I never got an engine light or anything. Just the dash was flashing the temperature at me.
When it started about 15 minutes later I could hear a rattling. Loaded it up, took it to a shop. The mechanic there changed the oil, said he didn’t see a thing in the oil. Never over heated again while they let it run for a bit. I was on my way to pick it up and he called said he could hear the rattling clear as bells now and was pretty sure it was the CCT. Wanted $800 to change it. I’ve got a buddy that works on bikes quite a bit, he’s a mechanic by trade (drift cars and such) . Thought the same thing, CCT. Going to swap it out and see what happens..
 
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