[zgeggy2k]

Hi everybody,

After successfully servicing my wife's Ninja 250 (plugs, valves, carbs sync'd, coolant, oil/filter, etc...) I decided to go for it on my 2000 R1.

While I think I understand the procedure (it's not that much different from the Ninja - same principles!), I'm having trouble to "get to stuff". Of course, I'm a relative newbie when it comes to mech work, so please forgive my n00bie questions.

First things first: got the seat/tank removed, and external fuel line hooked into the fuel filter. Everything is set, bike runs fine like this.

Now, I need to remove the bolts to hook up the adapters (from my Carbtune), and then the vacuum lines to them. There's 4 of them. Well, make that 3: it seems the leftmost carb has a "built in" adapter with a hose clamped to it.

Problem number one: how to get this hose off? I've been able to take the clamp off, but I don't manage to break the hose loose. Is there any trick?

Problem number two: the other bolts are somewhat accessible. Not great, but doable. However, I'm afraid of having the bolts fall off as soon as I unscrew them. Any tricks to keep them from falling? (I've hear saran wrap helps?). Magnets? Spells?

Problem number three: the adjustment screws are a pain to get to. First I used a mirror to find them (dentist mirror, about half an inch diameter), then I was able to reach them with a long bit. A hint/tips thread on this forum recommended to put the screwdrivers in place (on the 3 of them) before you start the procedure. That's a great tip so you don't have to fight to find them again as the bike is running, but it means they have to be held "upside down". Gravity wants to get them to fall over, so is there any secret to keeping them hooked up?

Last (but not least): given that it's a PITA to get to the sync bolts, I suppose I should take the opportunity I have and put some "permanent" adapters. How well do they work? I went on the Carbtune website and they seem to be gone. I'd prefer those that come with some length of hose, so I can easily hook up the carbtune to them next time around.

And a question! Why does one of the carbs have its vacuum line hooked up? Where is it hooked to, and if the bike runs ok without it, why is it there in the first place?

As you see, many questions, many doubts... and lots of skin lost on my hands already.

Any help would be really appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Cheers, and happy new year!

-- Greg

 

[zgeggy2k]

Thanks JAYSTENSEC4CYL.

 

[zgeggy2k]

Hey Dave,

That's a great tip. It certainly looks way easier than hooking up to the vacuum ports (at least on the R1 - it was not so hard to do it on my wife's Ninja 250).

Do you hook up 4 of them at the same time or do you move one across all carbs and write down the reading on each?
Seems like the latter could be doable and would be cheaper, but a little bit of pain in the butt to make sure everything is all sync'd (you have to go back and forth). I'd rather have the readings move while I turn the screws so I can adjust precisely. Maybe you can get away with just 2 since you always end up balancing 2 sets. They're not too expensive anyways: I'd probably want to go with one on each carb as I turn the screws.

Do you find that the readings are accurate enough on those things?

Cheers,

-- Greg

 

[zgeggy2k]

Hi Dave,

Thanks for all the hints/tips. Sounds like I'm going to get one of those!

I found this online reseller that carries them: http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=572

Which one do I need? Seems like the SK version covers a wider range of diameters (40 to 55 mm instead of 48 to 53 for the BK), so I'm not sure why anyone would want the BK? Are there cases where the SK doesn't work?

TIA. Much appreciated!

-- Greg

 

[zgeggy2k]

Thanks Dave. I ordered the stuff a few minutes ago, so I hope I'll get it before next weekend so I can play with it.

Cheers!

-- Greg

 

[zgeggy2k]

Sync'ing is done! Thanks Dave for the piece of advice, it made it so much simpler than hooking up the vacuum lines!

Cheers,

-- Greg