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I have a 04 R1 recently had my chain snap came back blew a hole the size of a half dollar into my case. It went threw the fail safe guard that Yamaha had installed on the outside of motor by the stator. Had a small shop install the new case and this took several months. Finally the day came where I got the call and bike only needed oil coolant and few gaskets. Bought them and dropped them off. Waited two weeks before calling the shop and no one picked up. Finally after a month showed up to there shop with a tow truck. And was told that the bike for some reason was making a knocking noise. And over my anger I over heared a piece of what he was saying which was he “thinks” it has something to do with the stator never telling me what part of the stator. So I took my bike back home and took the stator apart and everything looked in tact no markings on flywheel. I then had another technician friend of mine that works at a tuning shop look at it. And listen to noise. He also said sounds like something might be warped in the stator. Ok!??! So I spent $330 on new flywheel and gasket $60 on new magneto and $45 on the three main bearings that are in contact with stator, lastly bought new bolts for the stator cover with washers. . All these parts were installed and torqued down. Did another oil Change on bike and started it. Still to my disbelief making the same noise but the noise, of this makes sense, doesn’t sound very deep at all. It’s more or less on the outside of motor somewhere. I can’t figure this out and don’t have any more money to be spending on technicians just to tell me it’s a part that was never broke in first place. I can upload videos or sound clips of what noise I’m talking about if any one out there has any clues or real help please let me know. Already spent $2090.00 more then I wanted to.
 

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its actually a pretty involved process to change cases and the fact it only cost you 2000 bucks make me think it may not have been done right. the lower and upper cases are made then the journals for the crank is bore so each set of cases is a matched set they can't be mixed and matched with others or you run the risk of damaging bearings. old bearings from the old cases can't be reused because the sizing of the new cases isn't guaranteed the same and the math for the right bearings has to be recalculated. uploading a sound clip or video will definitely help us figure out what kind of sound you are talking about. first think i would look into is taking the plastics off and looking for any loose brackets or anything exterior that could make that noise. hopefully when they were putting it back in the bike they left something loose.
 

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Thank you for that. I don’t know much about internals of motors. And I had entrusted the company that I was referred to and was beyond dissatisfied with customer service and performance.But I guess complaining about it doesn’t get me anywhere. I’m going to try to upload a sound clip now let me know what you think. Thanks again.https://share.icloud.com/photos/0Jhm66IqC3mF-_ahAj6HpWbCA#Home
 

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shoulda just picked up a used motor for $700.
a good welder could have welded the pieces back in i have done it lots but lets not get into shoulda coulda's and lets just try to help him from where he's at now.

it sounds worse from the right side but its a bit hard to tell. i would like to say cam chain tensioner might not be doing its job for some reason so if you were to take off the valve cover and throw a socket on the end of the crank shaft you can move it back and forth you should only see a couple degrees of movement of the crank before the cams start to move. more then that and that could be your noise. while your there you can look at the valve clearance just in case something like a shim may have fallen out or they got swapped. i don't know exactly what was apart so i can't say for sure, i don't think valve clearance sounds like your issue but while your there. you can change the bearings but i doubt they are your problem if the old rotor wasn't hit by the chain then it couldn't have damaged that bearing. there is a washer in there be careful not to drop it out when your pulling out the alternator it can drop into a slot right below and into the oil pan. if all that checks out i would do a compression test and see if one cylinder is low.
 

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a good welder wouldn't touch old cast aluminum. It is easier to use high temp jb weld the hole.
 

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a good welder wouldn't touch old cast aluminum. It is easier to use high temp jb weld the hole.
It's also even easier to use duct tape and bubble gum but it doesn't mean it's right or any good of a solution. I'm also confused as to why you think age has anything to do with anything but clearly your an expert so carry on there pro status.
 

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When you weld the pieces back, how will you pull out the oxide layer along the cracked edge?
 

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Take the cover off and alternator out to get the old pieces out. Clean everything remove any contaminants and then tack it on. Dremell the crack out with a nice taper so you can get it fusing back together nice from deep. I don't know why you think there would be such an issue with this. I did my buddies bike he tore off a good 4 inch by 2 inch section right where it connects to the cover and it's the same process. I got aluminum plate and made the missing section and The face where the cover seals. Still on the road no issues no leaks and that was 15 years ago now. With a proper weld it is just as strong as the original piece. This kind of stuff goes on all the time just apparently not in your circle.
 

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You're right, I forget the difference between functional vs. better than before.
 

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i miss this place...

Like going back to the old neighborhood where everybody grew up and moved away. :cryin
 

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If we DM another it doesnt make that post count climb. How else are we supposed to trick newbs into thinking we know what we're talking about without that swollen post count.
 
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