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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
At the request of another member going to document my attempt to install the kit ecu onto my 2020 R1M. Disclaimer I have no idea what I'm doing!!!! So take this info at your own risk.

I picked up my 2020 R1M back in Nov 2019. Did one trackday at the end of Nov and then started prepping for the 2020 track season. The upgrades that I have are as follows
  • O.Z Racing GASS RS-A Forged Aluminum Wheels
  • Ohlins steering damper
  • Vortex Rearsets
  • FTEcu ABS delete
  • Akrapovic TD slip-on and link pipe
  • Carbonin trackbody work
  • BMC air filter
  • Graves block off plates
  • Spiegler Steel braided lines No-ABS
  • YART chain adjuster
  • Kit ECU
Fast forward after waiting 7 months and not being able to ride the bike had to decide what to do.
  • Continue to wait and hope a flash kit becomes available soon
  • Put the stock parts back on the bike
  • Wait for a piggy back module
  • Get the kit ecu and commit to full time track bike
I decided to bite the bullet and get the kit ecu. Seemed like a fun if stupid (for me to try at least) project. Since I have another bike figured what the hell :)

The biggest con of this project for me is my lack of knowledge with something this in-depth, but also limited work space and tools. Again follow anything here at your own risk

My starting point was STG's 2015 project bike videos. While he doesn't have a kit ecu install video, Van does a great job explaining pretty much everything you need to know on stripping a R1 to the point required to install the kit ecu and harness. I couldn't do it better than he did so I didn't even try!!! His vids are based off a 2015 but most of it applies to the 2020. There are a few differences (like with the ABS removal) but they are minor and easy enough to figure out. It's mainly cable routing differences and not a big deal. The STG vids I'd recommend are
  • Removing OEM/Stock bodywork
  • ABS removal (if you don't want the ABS module)
  • Electronic steering damper removal
  • Full exhaust install (mainly for cat removal tips) - I didn't do full system only 3/4
  • Speigler brakeline non-abs install
  • Block off plate installation
If you watch these you'll be able to strip the bike down to the bare bones. For the kit ecu installation you'll need access to the wiring harness so the tank, airbox, bodywork will need to be removed. I had done all of this stuff over the winter months so that was the state of my bike when the kit ecu arrived
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Day 1 - ecu arrived and I was greated by excitement and fear!!! :) In prep for this I downloaded the kit manual from Yamaha Europe website. It's very detailed so if this is something you are considering I'd strongly recommend it. It's a free download nothing to lose. Anyway the kit includes
  • ECU
  • wiring harness
  • data connector (separate purchase and required to access the ecu)
  • Software
Additionally
  • for the R1M an additional harness is required for the electronic suspension
  • an additional harness is available for the OEM lights.

First step I did was take pictures of the bike at each step so if I needed to stop or go back I could have a visual to follow. Turns out the hardest part about removing the harness are all the different connectors. They don't all release the same and not all are easy to get to, to figure that out. But when it wasn't obvious I referenced the kit harness. A couple clips aside the harness came out pretty easily. I took my time and the whole removal took about 90 mins. I wanted to enjoy success so I wimped out and stopped for the day. I was able to remove the harness without breaking or losing anything!! gotta love small victories.

Items of note. The kit moves the regulator/rectifier from the stock location on the radiator to a mount on the outside of the sub-frame. Not sure why that was decided. I'm not really thrilled about that location. So going to look into another location. Since I have removed the ABS and charcoal canister I have some space to work with.

Will have some pics shortly
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Starting point head light removed
IMG_1109.JPG IMG_1101.JPG

YART Chain Adjuster. It did come with the unslung brake caliper holder but I didn't like how it attached the speed sensor. So I modified the OEM caliper holder to be capitive like the mod FastFrank does.
IMG_1191.JPG

Vortex Rearsets
IMG_1226.JPG

OEM connector front end
IMG_1265.JPG

OEM harness removed
IMG_1337.JPG IMG_1339.JPG IMG_1340.JPG IMG_1341.JPG
 

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90min to remove the OEM harness is not bad, thought it was gonna be a lot worse. Thanks for the pics and details!

Do 15+ R1 FT ABS delete and block off plate work on 2020 R1?
Can you share why you went with a R1m as a track bike and not a R1? Electronic suspension and carbon bodywork get replaced on track bikes anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Oh I thought it was going to be worse as well. Didn't intend to start today but figured I'd get started on the harness removal and before I knew it I was done. :) The block off plates will work but not the FT ABS delete. The 2020 has a different ABS module (smaller) but FT has a 2020 ABS delete so it's not an issue, unless you already had one for the previous model you planned to use.

As for the R1M not going to lie I got it cause I thought it looked cool. My original intent was not for the bike to be a dedicated trackbike. The delay in a flash option changed my plans. While I wasn't interested in the on the fly auto adjustment of the system, I did like the manual electronic function. Basically it would allow me to make changes quicker. As I'm trying to get a better understanding of suspension thought it would be easier than manual suspension. Say I am at a trackday and not liking my setup I don't have to pull into the pits and break out the tools to make changes. Instead I could do a quick stop in hot pit push a couple of buttons and then go right back out.

The R1M was an impulse purchase. I've mentioned previously that I really haven't like any of the R1s since the 04-06 model, so the visual changes to the 2020 were appealing. The option to get the M opened so I jumped. But because of delays with parts for the 2020 and the flash issue my plans changed. Had I purchased a R1 today instead of back in Nov I would have gone with the standard model. Was never crazy about the blue wheels (only reason I got the O.Z. Wheels) and polished swingarm so the standard would have made more sense. Same with the carbon bodywork. My original intent was to leave it unpainted, but now thinking about painting. With that in mind if I ordered them today I would go with the fibre glass route.

This is the first time I've really done anything to any bikes I've owned. Generally left them pretty much stock, so yes I've gone a bit overboard with this and the lack of real planning has cost me a lot of $$$$ but oh well it is what it is at this point.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
DAy 2: Just glad I still have my R6!!! :) Got the kit harness installed but not without questions. I understand this is an experienced level project but for the cash you pay for it wish the instructions were a bit more clear and detailed. The routing of the kit harness is a nightmare. The tolerances are tight.....very tight in some spots. At first glanced it seemed like the harness routed on the outside of the frame. But doing that meant the connectors for the injectors was very tight. So removed it and routed on the inside which of course meant the connectors for the bar controls was tight and also close to the fan.

Unlike the OEM harness that has the connectors labeled (injector 1, 2, etc.....) the kit harness doesn't so I'm hoping that I have the orientation correct. The manual has an overlay for the wiring that is drawn instead of an actual photo of the harness in place.

The other item is trying to determine what exactly was removed with the kit it's clear which connectors left unused are ok. Don't think you can really fault the kit as it's not meant to be a hobbyist item. I have a service manual arriving tomorrow to see what the open connectors are.

A couple of things regarding the ECU and regulator brackets. The screws for the regular mount are too short so they're of no use. Not a big deal but just figured I'd mention it. As for the ECU it leaves the connection cables exposed, so I went back to the OEM ecu holder.

So at this point the harness is installed and a couple connectors aside I think it's good to go. The suspension harness arrives tomorrow and after that I'm going to schedule some time and take the bike to Attack and have them go over it and make sure I got everything correct (want to make sure I got the injector connections correct) and do a dyno tune.

So today was about 2 1/2 hours and that included me starting over and rerouting and a lot of time staring and comparing OEM and kit harness

Tentatively completed
IMG_1348.JPG

Mystery connectors :)
IMG_1350.JPG

kit ecu with oem mount
IMG_1353.JPG
 

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I totally respect you for taking on this with no help!!
I'm scared to....I think my a.d.d. will cause me issues.
So I have a slightly different specific question that I think you can answer.

(If) the superstock setting is good enough as flashed, can I just swap ecu without changing the harness?
I know in order for full tuning ya need it, but I was kinda hoping they have a decent flash on there with all the main restrictions off and stuff.
So basically I was hoping to take the easy route and just plug in a new ecu.
I wouldn't think they would have alm those restrictions on the track ecu...no?
Anyway, take care and good luck!
😎
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I totally respect you for taking on this with no help!!
I'm scared to....I think my a.d.d. will cause me issues.
So I have a slightly different specific question that I think you can answer.

(If) the superstock setting is good enough as flashed, can I just swap ecu without changing the harness?
I know in order for full tuning ya need it, but I was kinda hoping they have a decent flash on there with all the main restrictions off and stuff.
So basically I was hoping to take the easy route and just plug in a new ecu.
I wouldn't think they would have alm those restrictions on the track ecu...no?
Anyway, take care and good luck!
😎
funny I actually thought about that myself. The connectors look the same but didn’t actually try it. Probably should have. When reading the info on the kit parts it’s confusing. Some parts made it seem like the kit ecu required the harness but then other parts made it seem optional mainly for weight saving and tuning

again I never tested and before I ended up removing the kit and going back to the OEM setup. Here is the thing that would probably have to be looked at. There is a map selector plug on the kit harness that sets the mode sbk or stk . obviously That’s not on the OEM harness. dont Recall how many maps the ecu holds so how would you make sure the stk map is active? Put it in all mem slots? Also given it’s a race ecu you’d loose some street functions...so .... yeah it’s a lot to consider

to be honest the actual installation was a lot easier than I thought it would be. My issue was my lack of knowledge about exactly what was removed and the effect. For example you loose the fans. must of my local tracks are in the desert and I see a lot of 90+ temps. Would I need a kit radiator? Will the bike stay cool enough? It may sound like a stupid question but like I said I have limited mechanical background so it was something to think about. The more I read the manual the more $$$$ I saw so I just pulled the plug. If this were a rebuild or something I would have gone for it or if I were back home where I had knowledgeable resources to help. But I don’t have the funds to blow up a bike regardless of how funny it might look lol. There are times I’ll gamble with breaking stuff just to learn but this isn’t one of them

i should have the baz module tomorrow. A couple of people called about buying the bike but they were acting really stupid, so I’m stuck with it for the time being. I spoke with Bazzaz and while it’s not a flash I can run my 3/4 system. I got clarity on the lower injector item and it was a hardware issue not software. The are expecting that to be resolved so. If you purchase the current upper injector only harness they plan on having an exchange program when the full harness is complete. So at least now I’ll be able to take the thing to the track in a couple weeks without having to put the OEM exhaust back on
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I bet the connections are different, but I thought I'd check with someone that has both .
So think this is the official answer kit harness is required

PLEASE NOTE: For Superbike, according to the 2019 GYTR kit manual, this kit part is only to be used in combination with the following parts:
  • B3L121707000: GYTR camshaft (intake);
  • B3L121807000: GYTR camshaft (exhaust);
  • B3L121767000: GYTR camshaft sprocket (intake & exhaust) (2x);
  • 2CRA21107100: GYTR valve spring set;
  • B3L1440B7000: GYTR air funnel set;
  • B3LF25907000: GYTR kit wire harness 2020.
For SuperStock, all engine specs need to be standard, only the wire harness is mandatory.
 

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You get this sorted out?

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 

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here is a picture of the kit ecu package for the 2020 R1.
Thought yall might wanna see what ya get and ponder if you can do it yourself....
1015440
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Doh!!! Thanks thought I had already post pics of the kit but had only posted the oem one. To be honest getting the harness installed wasn’t that bad. My issue ended up being my lack of knowledge about the bike. The kit is intended to be installed by professionals or knowledgeable mechanics. and the instructions are written that way. A lot of prior knowledge is assumed Which is something admittedly I dont have. One additional item I would highly recommend would be the 2020 service manual.

since I didn’t provide an update I’ll do so now. When we last left our brave fool he had shocking completed the ecu/harness install without breaking anything or having any “extra” parts. But had concerns about some of the connections removed by the kit. These were mainly lack of knowledge concerns. Unfortunately I wasn’t able to get those questions answered and had issues trying to get bike in to have it done professionally. Basically just wanted a once over by a pro to make sure I had done it correctly and hadn’t missed anything.

wasn‘t able to get that done and had a track day coming and really wanted to ride the bike since I hadn’t ridden it since last Nov. so I took all the aftermarket stuff off and returned it to stock, OEM exhaust, filter, AIS and all. The only thing I didn’t put back on was the ABS and exup , but I had the bypass modules for those.

when completed bike started fine. No error codes. Took for a quick test ride around the block without any issues. So loaded up for the track day. Last second something told me to bring my r6 and for once I listened lol

at the track bike initially seemed fine. Warmed up in the garage fine went through tech fine. But right before my first session it started acting strange. The throttle wasn’t responding correctly. To err on the side of caution I parked switched to the r6 was able to get it tech’s real quick and didn’t miss a session. Looked at the r1 between sessions a little but ended up just leaving it alone until I got home.

once home opened it up and didn’t see anything that jumped out like an issue. No. Warning lights or error codes. I disconnected the throttle sensor to see if it would generate and error and it did. And cleared when reconnected . Repeated that with other connections related to throttle and fueling. Didn’t see a problem. Tried in different power and EBM modes and still the same

basically what is happening is that under load the injectors don‘t initially close when the throttle closes. For example at idle the bike runs fine. If given a quick short blip everything is fine. But say I blip to 5k when I close the throttle the revs will stay for say half a second like it’s still getting fuel and then drop like it should. The higher the refs the longer it does this. it’s lasted for as long as 3 seconds. scheduling Issues (both sides) have as of yet prevented me taking into the dealership to have a diag run. I did open it up a little to check the routing of the fuel lines and wiring connectors. But they looked good. So wondering if maybe I didn’t get the injectors back in correctly and they aren’t closing as they should after they have been under load. just guessing at this point, because the bike responds fine when opening the throttle just when closing. will post a short clip a bit later.

right now it’s parked cause life calls and don’t have the time to work on it. But yeah it’s strange. Wanted to have diag run because of the new cableless throttle system on the 2020 and wondering if I got that out of wack or something. So TBC.......... and for the record, I’m NOT blaming Yamaha for this. This is 100% on me for messing with a perfectly good working motorcycle without responsible adult supervision!!! Lol
 

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Doh!!! Thanks thought I had already post pics of the kit but had only posted the oem one. To be honest getting the harness installed wasn’t that bad. My issue ended up being my lack of knowledge about the bike. The kit is intended to be installed by professionals or knowledgeable mechanics. and the instructions are written that way. A lot of prior knowledge is assumed Which is something admittedly I dont have. One additional item I would highly recommend would be the 2020 service manual.

since I didn’t provide an update I’ll do so now. When we last left our brave fool he had shocking completed the ecu/harness install without breaking anything or having any “extra” parts. But had concerns about some of the connections removed by the kit. These were mainly lack of knowledge concerns. Unfortunately I wasn’t able to get those questions answered and had issues trying to get bike in to have it done professionally. Basically just wanted a once over by a pro to make sure I had done it correctly and hadn’t missed anything.

wasn‘t able to get that done and had a track day coming and really wanted to ride the bike since I hadn’t ridden it since last Nov. so I took all the aftermarket stuff off and returned it to stock, OEM exhaust, filter, AIS and all. The only thing I didn’t put back on was the ABS and exup , but I had the bypass modules for those.

when completed bike started fine. No error codes. Took for a quick test ride around the block without any issues. So loaded up for the track day. Last second something told me to bring my r6 and for once I listened lol

at the track bike initially seemed fine. Warmed up in the garage fine went through tech fine. But right before my first session it started acting strange. The throttle wasn’t responding correctly. To err on the side of caution I parked switched to the r6 was able to get it tech’s real quick and didn’t miss a session. Looked at the r1 between sessions a little but ended up just leaving it alone until I got home.

once home opened it up and didn’t see anything that jumped out like an issue. No. Warning lights or error codes. I disconnected the throttle sensor to see if it would generate and error and it did. And cleared when reconnected . Repeated that with other connections related to throttle and fueling. Didn’t see a problem. Tried in different power and EBM modes and still the same

basically what is happening is that under load the injectors don‘t initially close when the throttle closes. For example at idle the bike runs fine. If given a quick short blip everything is fine. But say I blip to 5k when I close the throttle the revs will stay for say half a second like it’s still getting fuel and then drop like it should. The higher the refs the longer it does this. it’s lasted for as long as 3 seconds. scheduling Issues (both sides) have as of yet prevented me taking into the dealership to have a diag run. I did open it up a little to check the routing of the fuel lines and wiring connectors. But they looked good. So wondering if maybe I didn’t get the injectors back in correctly and they aren’t closing as they should after they have been under load. just guessing at this point, because the bike responds fine when opening the throttle just when closing. will post a short clip a bit later.

right now it’s parked cause life calls and don’t have the time to work on it. But yeah it’s strange. Wanted to have diag run because of the new cableless throttle system on the 2020 and wondering if I got that out of wack or something. So TBC.......... and for the record, I’m NOT blaming Yamaha for this. This is 100% on me for messing with a perfectly good working motorcycle without responsible adult supervision!!! Lol
Any update?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The update is .....I have no update :) Been busy with other things so the bike has still been sitting around waiting. Will probably get to it in a couple of weeks. But it's just strange so while it's a bit late I'm going to wait to see how a few things play out. and decide on a direction

  1. Verify ECU has been unlocked and flash is available. Sorry to be a cynic but I've heard "next month" for almost a year. Nov is the new "next month" so will see if it actually happens. If it does then I'll go the flash route
  2. Bazzaz updated their kit harness so now they control both sets of injectors. Have the new harness but haven't installed yet. Again waiting to see if the flash actually happens. If it does then no real need for the Bazzaz kit. If not then will install it and give it a go and see how it performs.
  3. Go back to the kit/ecu route. This is my least desired option. mainly because of the complete lack of any type of support I've been able to get regarding it. You'd think being in SoCal it be easy to find a race shop or something but nope. Attack isn't doing customer bikes. Graves doesn't return calls/emails (at least not mine). The other few smaller shops......well reviews have been to mixed to really trust. so kind of in a rock and a hard place.

I do think I fixed the throttle issue, but not sure what was actually the problem. Went in an checked all connections, airbox seal, etc....... gave everything the 10th over and it still did the same thing with the over rev on closed throttle. Let it run/idle for a bit and then cycled through all the power modes and EBM settings and that seemed to clear the problem. But now the bike stalls if ridden. Idles fine. can blip and rev the throttle all day without issue, but if actually ridden the fueling is real rough and eventually stalls if I'm the slightest off throttle. This is OEM state with the exception of the AIS and charcoal canister,exup removed and hi flow air filter installed. Was curious if the idle was too low because it barely idles over 1500k but haven't figured out how to raise the idle on this thing. I got really irritated with the thing and just put it back in the back of the garage before I took a sledge hammer to it. Never run into so many issue trying to do the most basic of things.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
What better way to blow off steam from a very bad week and to continue breaking a perfectly good motorcycle!! lol It hit me yesterday that it in a couple weeks it would be almost a year to the date that I rode this thing. I got it last Nov took it straight to Chuckwalla Raceway for after Thanksgiving weekend trackday and its been sitting ever since. Then playing that new Ride 4 game (it's not much better than the other ones and a lot worse in a lot of ways) for a few days I put more miles on the 2020 R1 in the game than in real life. :(

So made an attempt again to get the kit installed and failed. Just nothing but drama drama drama. Actually had a racer offer to help which was much appreciated. In an attempt to not waste anyone's time went back to strip the bike again and 4 1/2 hrs later had the ecu/harness installed. Haven't powered up or started the bike yet. Just a couple more things I want to verify and review. Like the first time the biggest time killer was finding the best routing. So now that I have that done I'll just the racer to look it over and compare to theirs just to make sure I got it correct

But I think I did because of the way the connectors are it's really hard to get them connected wrong, aside from maybe the injectors. Unlike on the OEM harness they aren't labeled on the kit.

Because I have the R1M I did purchase and install the harness for the electronic suspension. While not needed I'll probably order the harness for the lights soon to as it works with the OEM lights. It's not documented but unless I'm messing parts from the kit, what the harness seems to eliminate are
  1. O2 sensors
  2. Lights
  3. Radiator fans
  4. Key ignition
Those were the only connectors I had left that didn't have a connection on the kit harness. So that's what I'm trying to verify now. Once that's done just need to connect the battery and give it a go. Have to build a windows 10 box as the software doesn't run on Linux. The goal is to try have this thing ride-able for Chuckwalla on Thanksgiving weekend.

Did end up using the kit ecu mount which I originally didn't. Was kind of concerned about the connectors being exposed. The OEM mount has the plastic piece to cover those, its not much but it's something. After I got it installed I don't think it would be too hard to rig something up to make that piece work with the kit bracket as well. Will get some pics up when I can. Won't get to work to much more on it until next week. Have to get ready for trackday this weekend.
 

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What better way to blow off steam from a very bad week and to continue breaking a perfectly good motorcycle!! lol It hit me yesterday that it in a couple weeks it would be almost a year to the date that I rode this thing. I got it last Nov took it straight to Chuckwalla Raceway for after Thanksgiving weekend trackday and its been sitting ever since. Then playing that new Ride 4 game (it's not much better than the other ones and a lot worse in a lot of ways) for a few days I put more miles on the 2020 R1 in the game than in real life. :(

So made an attempt again to get the kit installed and failed. Just nothing but drama drama drama. Actually had a racer offer to help which was much appreciated. In an attempt to not waste anyone's time went back to strip the bike again and 4 1/2 hrs later had the ecu/harness installed. Haven't powered up or started the bike yet. Just a couple more things I want to verify and review. Like the first time the biggest time killer was finding the best routing. So now that I have that done I'll just the racer to look it over and compare to theirs just to make sure I got it correct

But I think I did because of the way the connectors are it's really hard to get them connected wrong, aside from maybe the injectors. Unlike on the OEM harness they aren't labeled on the kit.

Because I have the R1M I did purchase and install the harness for the electronic suspension. While not needed I'll probably order the harness for the lights soon to as it works with the OEM lights. It's not documented but unless I'm messing parts from the kit, what the harness seems to eliminate are
  1. O2 sensors
  2. Lights
  3. Radiator fans
  4. Key ignition
Those were the only connectors I had left that didn't have a connection on the kit harness. So that's what I'm trying to verify now. Once that's done just need to connect the battery and give it a go. Have to build a windows 10 box as the software doesn't run on Linux. The goal is to try have this thing ride-able for Chuckwalla on Thanksgiving weekend.

Did end up using the kit ecu mount which I originally didn't. Was kind of concerned about the connectors being exposed. The OEM mount has the plastic piece to cover those, its not much but it's something. After I got it installed I don't think it would be too hard to rig something up to make that piece work with the kit bracket as well. Will get some pics up when I can. Won't get to work to much more on it until next week. Have to get ready for trackday this weekend.
Good news, we are looking forward to the updates.
If the radiator fans are removed, how can you (the ECU) control the coolant temperature?
With the light harness, you will get lights only for endurance race right? You wont be able to ride it on the street?!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
If the radiator fans are removed, how can you (the ECU) control the coolant temperature?
You ask these questions like I know what I'm doing!!! lol Basically that was one of the questions I had as well. Race radiator isn't list as required, so I'm guessing you'd get a warning if it was overheating and then would have to stop. I was told a manual switch can be installed to control the fans. but again this is something I don't have a clue about and as of yet haven't found the answer.

As for the lights the harness description states OEM lights. They are controlled by separate manual switches. As for street riding I don't know about that with the kit harness. Assume you can get switch for the fan, the harness also changes the functions of some of the controls. so like I think the hazard is now a pit speed limiter. so you'd have no signal lights. And you'd have to have a tune. It comes with two maps a SBK and STK. I was curious about the fuel the STK was configured for....race fuel? So there are still questions I have.

I did take a little bit to look at the bike again today thought everything looked well enough to try a power on test..... and that's where things got a little interesting....lol Big sparks when I connected the ground to battery. Bike immediately powered up. Took a bit of reconnecting and moving stuff that didn't need to be moved. I had assumed since the key ignition didn't have a connection, the power was remapped to the right hand control like with the Woodcraft adaptor for example. But that wasn't the case. There is another connector that had a cap that I was wondering what it did. Turns out that's for aux power switch. I had to pull the cap to kill power. Nice to know!! lol So it's stuff like that where the instruction manual could have been more clear and detailed. That connector didn't fit ignition connector, so it's something I'm going to have to figure out. I checked the GYTR catalog and didn't see anything for an on/off power switch. And the switches I saw didn't match the connector. So will have to hunt that dow

Issue #2 no dash. this was relatively easy to fix. Had to connectors wrong. Generally all the connectors in an area are different. Turns out the kit harness had two that were identical in the same area. I didn't notice in time and had them wrong. going back over the diagram I saw what the problem was and fixed. With that done Thought I was good to go but then the bike wouldn't start :rolleyes::rolleyes:. Another easy fix. Because it had worked previously I knew it was probably something when I was checking the connectors. sure enough the one for that switch wasn't connected completed. Quick click and the bike fired right up. Shut it down because I remembered that I hadn't switched to the STK map (which is a dongle connector). Took care of that and fired it up. Sounded pretty good. Didn't run it long and do any revs cause of the area I was in. But at least it started :) Have to find my ODB2 reader to clear the warning light. Pretty sure that was due to me not having connected the ABS delete and that dash issue. So figured this was a good stopping point so shut it back down and pulled the battery and went to get loaded up for the weekend track fun

So feeling pretty good about things so far. Still planning on having that racer look at if the offer still stands, I mean hey theres less work now. All I need if for them to verify I got things correct. The biggest challenge was figuring out the routing, which I think I can do a little better.

When I get back I'll get a Windows 10 box built so I install the software and look at the settings of the STK map and the rest of the ecu. Also will need to find a place to put it on a dnyo and tune it for pump gas. From there it's really not much more to do. Get the body work painted (not a priority and probably not before the trackday) and get the OZ wheels back on it. Main item is the power switch, have to get that sorted because having to pull the cap each time would be a serious PAIN!!!! No photos yet as had to get loaded up but will get some next week
 
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