Yamaha R1 Forum: YZF-R1 Forums banner

21 - 40 of 68 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
100 Posts
Discussion Starter #21
did some reading through the service manual and feeling a bit more confident now regarding the connectors I had questions about

So these two are the O2 sensor and the sidestand sensor. So good to go
1016297


and the two at the top of this front left side wiring panel are the radiator connectors

1016298



While reading through these I did find in the Kit Manual it did state to remove the coupler from the main switch. But it didn't ever state what the "main switch" actually does. So I found out the hard way. Another interesting thing at no point does it state to reconnect it. So I can see someone removing it at the start getting deep into the install and when done can't figure out why there is no power lol

Two more connectors I need to verify but I think one is the right side signal. but will make sure all of these are what I think when I get back home. Once verified want to see if I can clean up the routing a bit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
did some reading through the service manual and feeling a bit more confident now regarding the connectors I had questions about

So these two are the O2 sensor and the sidestand sensor. So good to go
View attachment 1016297

and the two at the top of this front left side wiring panel are the radiator connectors

View attachment 1016298


While reading through these I did find in the Kit Manual it did state to remove the coupler from the main switch. But it didn't ever state what the "main switch" actually does. So I found out the hard way. Another interesting thing at no point does it state to reconnect it. So I can see someone removing it at the start getting deep into the install and when done can't figure out why there is no power lol

Two more connectors I need to verify but I think one is the right side signal. but will make sure all of these are what I think when I get back home. Once verified want to see if I can clean up the routing a bit.
I just contacted Yart, about these question, no answer yet. I hope they will help.

Is your power switch problem sorted out? There a part in the catalog:
“5GF-83976-00 SPARE SWITCH HANDLE, ON/OFF - Extra spare on/off switch for power or light”
But I think you don’t need this.
I looked through the wiring diagram, what do you have there in the box? I think our original red switch should handle this function.

Another question, is there any option to USE the ABS?
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
100 Posts
Discussion Starter #23
I was thinking about that included switch as well but it states tail light in the docs. So didn't install it. I was going to try it when I get back home.

That was the only switch included in the kit box. And I didn't see anything in the parts list for an on/off switch that could be ordered. The light kit has its own set of 3 switches so yeah not sure what the one included is for. So again I'll give it a try when I get home

the problem with the stock OEM bar button is that it just has the same connections. And there isn't a connection for the ignition key module. At first I thought it may have just be rerouted within the harness, like the Woodcraft keyless adaptor module. But didn't appear to be
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
I was thinking about that included switch as well but it states tail light in the docs. So didn't install it. I was going to try it when I get back home.

That was the only switch included in the kit box. And I didn't see anything in the parts list for an on/off switch that could be ordered. The light kit has its own set of 3 switches so yeah not sure what the one included is for. So again I'll give it a try when I get home

the problem with the stock OEM bar button is that it just has the same connections. And there isn't a connection for the ignition key module. At first I thought it may have just be rerouted within the harness, like the Woodcraft keyless adaptor module. But didn't appear to be

This is the EU catalog and there is a power OR light switch, so I suppose they are the same.

Why do you want to connect the ignition key module? The kit ecu elimantes the key completely, thats why u got the ingnition based on the switch. Right?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
100 Posts
Discussion Starter #25
I saw that previously but I'd have to see the connector to see if it would work. Because if it's the same as the other switches then it won't. It's not that I want to connect the ignition key the problem is that without some sort of switch the circuit is live unless you pull the coupler from the main switch lead. As stated I found this out the hardway because I missed that part in the install manual. So once I connected the negative lead on the battery I got sparks, fuel pump came on , etc..... You'd think the right hand stop/start switch which is a 3 position switch would have been made to also serve the function of the ignition key. Pushing stop with stop the motor, but it does NOT cut power. The idea of having to use the coupler as the power key.....well is not something I'd want to do. I don't think an on/off switch to connect to it would be difficult to have made, but you'd think it would have been part of the kit to begin with if they are removing the ignition. I've gone over the manual several times now and don't see where I could have missed this connection. It's possible but I'm pretty sure I didn't. there is a power lead in the diagram that I verified. And I've compared the OEM and KIT harness. But it's obvious there isn't a connector for the iginition key on the kit harness, instead there is a main switch connection w/the coupler. I would have expected the kit harness to have been rewired to function like the Woodcraft Keyswitch harness This eliminates the key switch and maps that function to the OEM stop/start button,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
100 Posts
Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
So ordered the HD ignition switch along with the updated for 2020 right side control set. Curious what the 4th line is for . They didn't have a view with the connector so guess will find out when it arrives. If lucky maybe will connect to the main switch but probably not but will have the HD ignition switch so that won't be an issue
1016336



Main switch drama aside things are looking good (famous last words lol). Another error code popped up P0106 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Range/Performance Problem”. Pretty easy fix another instance of having two connectors backwards. Flipped them and error cleared and didn't return. Got a Win10 built and loaded the GYTR FI Matching System sotfware. Loaded the STK file and connected to the bike. Read the ECU Though it was supposed to be the default map loaded to the ECU I wrote it to the ECU again anyway, That part was pretty straight forward and I'm glad because I don't understand any of this stuff so don't see myself messing with it. For sure will take the bike to a shop to have a tune done when that time comes around

With that done fired the bike up and no errors!!!! and it freakin sounded AWESOME. Noticed the idle is set higher than the stock setting. No throttle issues like I had when I had tried to go back to the OEM setup. All the menu options worked aces! will have to get use to the new left bar button mapping but not a big deal. Gear indicator worked fine. CCU detected. Did notice the brake graph didn't register on the dash. Even though I have the ABS removed the OEM still displayed front/rear brake lever pressure. Could just be a setting with the ecu since it doesn't use the ABS

So now the next thing is go back in and see if I can clean up some of the routing. Not so much under the tank with the injectors and stuff, but more the connections on the left front control panel and under the tail. The kit comes with a mounting bracket for the ABS unit. Wasn't going to use it because I have the ABS delete module, but figure I can use it as a mount point for that and the CCU. Also have to figure out the best location for the ECU communication port so that it's accessible without having to remove the tank or seat. The map selector will probably just tuck under the tank in the area where the charcoal canister was.

While doubt I'll have use for it will probably end up ordering the light harness at some point. Rather have it and not need it .....

A bit early to declare success, as I still have a couple weeks before the trackday, but now at this point I really do think it's possible for someone at my level (low mechanical knowledge) to install the harness if you don't have access to resources to do it for you. The key to it are pretty obvious but I will state them anyway

  1. Have the proper tools and work area. Can't stress this enough. Basic tools will get you through it, But also a ODB2 reader with Yamaha adapter is very useful to have
  2. Download/Buy Service manual, kit manual. For sure Read the Kit Manual installation guide!!!!! Go over it several times. Especially the wiring diagram. It's not the clearest or best written but if you familiarize yourself with it, it makes sense. From the service manual read the cable routing guide. These two steps will be a great help if you're like me and aren't a mechanic or have a lot experience working on bikes/motors ,etc........ I used the service manual and parts list to figure out what connections were left open with the kit install .... for example the flashers, O2, Sidestand etc...
  3. Google is your friend :)
  4. Give yourself time to work on it and take your time. Take pics/vids before, during and after. Great to have references.
  5. Before removing anything compare the Kit harness to the OEM harness while it's still in place and connected. before you make the connections on the kit harness I'd suggest laying it out and then running it through the frame to check your routing options.
  6. Be organized. I keep all parts together as I remove them. Photograph the section I'm working on. Remove the bolts,nuts, pins, etc..... and put them in a ziplock and label where they came from and then set them aside. Yes it's very OCD but I do that whenever I'm taking stuff apart.
So in summary I don't really think the actual removal of OEM and install of Kit harness is that hard. if you take your time and have the tools and good work space you can probably can get the whole thing done in about 5 hours and that's not rushing it either. Just be patient. The part about the whole thing that made (makes) me neverous is how all this stuff works once it's connected. And that's just a lack of mechanical experience. Without a doubt I would have preferred to have had it installed for me, but at this point I'm pretty happy. especially because I learned a few things,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
100 Posts
Discussion Starter #28
To Do list
  1. Clean up routing
  2. install HD ignition switch and right side control set
  3. get bike to a dnyo to check tune
  4. reinstall underslung rear brake caliper mount
  5. resintall OZ wheels
  6. Paint body work
  7. Ride it like I stole it :)
Will get pics up when the routing is complete.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
To Do list
  1. Clean up routing
  2. install HD ignition switch and right side control set
  3. get bike to a dnyo to check tune
  4. reinstall underslung rear brake caliper mount
  5. resintall OZ wheels
  6. Paint body work
  7. Ride it like I stole it :)
Will get pics up when the routing is complete.
Great job!

Yart just answered me:
1. Yep you need that switch.
2. They recommend their performance radiator for cooling, because of the removed fan.

When you connect the ecu to your pc, what can you actually set? You mentioned that downloaded the STK map, any other option setting or something you have other the map firmwares.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
100 Posts
Discussion Starter #31
I didn't actually download the STK map. The kit came with 2 maps the STK for stock motors and the SBK for modified. As for what you can set pretty much everything that people used to dyno tune a bike. Again I'm not even going to pretend like I understood anything about that. I just followed the instructions for reading the ecu and writing a map to it. I primarily did that because I forgot to pull the coupler on the map switch before I started. The SBK has the coupler and the STK is w/o. Just wanted to make sure. If you're really curious about what can be done, I'd suggest downloaind the FI matching system manual. It's free and doesn't require a purchase

I forget but someone asked about the ABS. There is no option to run it the kit ecu. If you don't have an abs delete module you'll need to keep the pump connected to the system or else you get a lot of errors. I don't know how ABS works, but not sure if you can leave the lines going to the brakes if the pump is disabled and not have issues. It wasn't something relevant to me as I had already removed the ABS pump and lines and went to a standard braking setup
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
100 Posts
Discussion Starter #32
So just some photos nothing great but might be helpful if anyone else tries to DIY

1016354


For sure gets these in the correct connection.The one labeled A goes up by the air scope. This is one of the few times where Yamaha used identical connectors in the same area. I had them reversed and that is what caused my P0106 error code.

1016355


As I mentioned the kit harness doesn't have the injector connectors labeled like the OEM one does. The manual is a little hard to tell but if you stare at it long enough you can figure it out. Just to short cut for you. From left to right the first one has this sticker on it. The others don't. Once you figure out 1 the rest are easy

1016356


You really don't have to remove the upper funnel to get to the screws to release the air box. But I do because access is tight and at an angle with them in place. Since they are plastic I didn't like the tools rubbing against while turning , so just found it easier just to pop them off. Clear straight direct access at that point. Do note that they are curved and the orientation of the curve when reinstalling.

1016357


So this is what all the fuse is about. :) I used the kit bracket. I tried the harness both tucked behind that lip and where it is now connected to that strap on the frame that the OEM uses. I went this route because it just gave a little more support to me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
100 Posts
Discussion Starter #33
1016358


This is the little bastard that caused me a bunch of GRIEF!!!! lol Main switch my @$$ just say ignition lol. Trying to figure out the best routing option for it. I'd like to shout out to YART. They are just TOO AWESOME!!!! I think I placed my order for the ignition switch Sat evening....... It should be here by Thurs! it has already hit LA customs and I freakin could go drive down and grab it tomorrow if they let me :) But I won't

I didn't remove the key module just in case I need to put it back to street for some reason. I routed the cable from it to the inside of the front side connection panel. so that it's on the fork side of it. Bascially any of the connections that weren't used by the kit I moved to the back zip tied them. So that they are out of the way, but easily accessible for street conversion.

1016359


Nice and clean All the ABS and horn hardware has been removed. The horn connector lines that run to the left switch have been duc-taped to that flat plastic panel so they are out of the way and don't flap around. Ohlins damper has replaced the stocked electronic damper.

1016361


Cleaned up tail area best I could. The cable for the ABS is INSANELY long. The kit intended for it to be mounted at the back of the tail. Since I have the ABS delete module I didn't need that mounting bracket. So I used the space in front of the battery and zip tied it the holder for the exup line (which has been removed. And then folded the cable around. I could probably cut it or get someone to cut it but really no point. Not really concerned with weight and who knows mabye one day may need it. Right now the CCU is placed where the kit inteded the ABS pump to be. Its directly on the subframe but this is just testing. I will get some foam or padding to put under it for absorption.

1016362


Better view of the CCU location. Up to the left is the GPS. Velcro'd to the side of the subframe. I forget who on the forum gave me the tip about mounting it inside the fairings, but THANKS very much. To summarize, The track fairings had a cutout for the GPS but not for the routing of the cable. So thought I was going to have to cut the fairings because access would be a pain when taking the seat off. But mounting the GPS inside under the fairing resolved the issue. Still gets signal. :)

1016363


It lives!!!! All functions working. Note geez ECU flash drama aside the only real issue with the R1 to me is the scroll wheel. Geez Yamaha could you make that thing any more flimsy? It always feel like its going to break. Glad I have that replacement on the way. Also verified the brake pressure gauge does work with kit so that cool too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
100 Posts
Discussion Starter #34 (Edited)
1016364


Test fitting the front fairing to test the routing. So far so good. :)

1016365


I have the ecu connection port just under the gap in the subframe. It's tucked up there where I usually have my battery tender. Easy access without having to remove the seat :)

You can see how the kit bracket leaves those ECU connections exposed. These fairings (Carbonin) already have a hole that was for the OEM ecu mount. I can use that so that I can fit the OEM ECU cable cover. :) Yeah it's just plastic but it's better than nothing. Speaking of the fairings. Hopefully don't have to remove them a lot but with the upper being one piece and not 3 like the OEM I'm going to have to put something on the inside of the side covers. They scratch the frame a bit when installing and removing. Petty I know but sue me.

Now that I've got the routing cleaned up going to see if I can get the thing to a dyno before the trackday. If not I'll just run with the STK map and see how it goes. The cable routing/cleanup took longer than expected so didn't get to the under brake caliper mount. And have to order some tires for the O.Z. Wheels.

It wouldn't be me without some stupid drama so here you go. Because I try to be considerate, I took the bike for a short ride across the street to this little strip mall so I can run the bike a little without be obnoxious to my neighbors. Since it's literally across the street I didn't have my helmet. So of course as soon as I pull into the parking lot of the 7-11 the Police also pull up!!! I have no helmet, no license, hell no ID, a non street legal bike and........ flip flops . They came over and man I think crap crap crap. I know it's tough these days but there are good cops out there. I told them I was trying to fix my bike and just came over here as not to bug my neighbors to test if it runs ok. One asks what's wrong with it and I said well I was fixing it....... they just laughed . We ended up chatting about it for almost 30 mins. They wished me luck and walked away laughing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
View attachment 1016364

Test fitting the front fairing to test the routing. So far so good. :)

View attachment 1016365

I have the ecu connection port just under the gap in the subframe. It's tucked up there where I usually have my battery tender. Easy access without having to remove the seat :)

You can see how the kit bracket leaves those ECU connections exposed. These fairings (Carbonin) already have a hole that was for the OEM ecu mount. I can use that so that I can fit the OEM ECU cable cover. :) Yeah it's just plastic but it's better than nothing. Speaking of the fairings. Hopefully don't have to remove them a lot but with the upper being one piece and not 3 like the OEM I'm going to have to put something on the inside of the side covers. They scratch the frame a bit when installing and removing. Petty I know but sue me.

Now that I've got the routing cleaned up going to see if I can get the thing to a dyno before the trackday. If not I'll just run with the STK map and see how it goes. The cable routing/cleanup took longer than expected so didn't get to the under brake caliper mount. And have to order some tires for the O.Z. Wheels.

It wouldn't be me without some stupid drama so here you go. Because I try to be considerate, I took the bike for a short ride across the street to this little strip mall so I can run the bike a little without be obnoxious to my neighbors. Since it's literally across the street I didn't have my helmet. So of course as soon as I pull into the parking lot of the 7-11 the Police also pull up!!! I have no helmet, no license, hell no ID, a non street legal bike and........ flip flops . They came over and man I think crap crap crap. I know it's tough these days but there are good cops out there. I told them I was trying to fix my bike and just came over here as not to bug my neighbors to test if it runs ok. One asks what's wrong with it and I said well I was fixing it....... they just laughed . We ended up chatting about it for almost 30 mins. They wished me luck and walked away laughing.
Again, great job. You were very lucky with the cops 😃

We are looking forward to the dyno measurements. It shall have some great numbers on the rear wheel.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Great build, I'll be going the same route next month. Except I have an i2M dash and sensors. This has been helpful and a good read. Just a heads up about the GPS antenna. You can run it under plastic fairings; its the carbon fiber fairings that can be a problem and restrict the antenna from getting signal. It may connect to satellites but could get intermittent signal and cause data to get all wacky.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
100 Posts
Discussion Starter #37
thanks for the info. Will keep an eye out for that. I2M is way out of my budget but definitely would be nice addition. 2 things I'd like to comment on

1) early on I spoke about the regular relocation and the bracket. I found the correct screws, they were stuck under on of the box flaps. So there is no problem with the screws being too short when you actually use the correct ones!!! The relocation isn't to bad.

2) In regards to the connectors on the air scoop. OEM those are wrapped in electrical tape. Don't know why but since they were when I connected the kit harness I did the same. you can see it in the pic from the post. The A connector is wrapped. The other one wasn't so I left it

3) Forgot to snap a pic of the electronic suspension harness before I put the tank back on. but basically I routed that under the airbox and to the right by the frame. no issues there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
100 Posts
Discussion Starter #38
New toys My right hand control and ignition switch arrived today
1016393


1016394


but of course more drama :( nothing is straight forward with this bike!!! lol

Was hoping the ignition switch was just going to be a drop in replacement for the couple but looking at the pics I had a feeling I wouldn't get lucky. and of course like my last date, I didn't!!! Not a big deal will just have to remove the connectors from the kit harness and connect them to the switch. But then will have to figure out a housing and mounting solution. So not going to be straight forward

As for the right hand controls turns out this is a jet prime module. I've read people getting error codes with the jet prime controls so first thing I did before thinking about removing anything was connect the thing to the bike. Powered up and no errors. tested functions and everything worked pretty smoothly FAR more smoothly than with the scroll wheel. So was pleased. But then the bike wouldn't start. another simple fix, just had to learn the button orientation and bike started/stopped without issue. Was pleased until I looked at the line. This is supposed to be plug n play but to me the line looks a bit short. I didn't do a true cable route just laid it in place, but I don't know it's looking like it's going to be a bit short and if it reaches there will be almost no slack. I could be wrong and once in final place it might work but I'd be surprised if it does. So thinking that panel that all these left front connectors lay on will have to go. If I'm lucky I might be able to get away with rearranging them. But I haven't been lucky with anything so far with this bike

The other thing was the 2020 throttle. It's got that magnetic thing so yeah very cautious about disassembling it. I looked and I could not find an installation manual from Jet Prime which is pretty lame. Yeah it appears to be pretty straight forward. But considering you have to remove the throttle and stuff to install you'd think they would have documented that. Took a look at the service manual and it doesn't look to bad, but without knowing how that throttle works and is calibrated have to admit that I'm a be hesitant about messing with it. but will see.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
New toys My right hand control and ignition switch arrived today
View attachment 1016393

View attachment 1016394

but of course more drama :( nothing is straight forward with this bike!!! lol

Was hoping the ignition switch was just going to be a drop in replacement for the couple but looking at the pics I had a feeling I wouldn't get lucky. and of course like my last date, I didn't!!! Not a big deal will just have to remove the connectors from the kit harness and connect them to the switch. But then will have to figure out a housing and mounting solution. So not going to be straight forward

As for the right hand controls turns out this is a jet prime module. I've read people getting error codes with the jet prime controls so first thing I did before thinking about removing anything was connect the thing to the bike. Powered up and no errors. tested functions and everything worked pretty smoothly FAR more smoothly than with the scroll wheel. So was pleased. But then the bike wouldn't start. another simple fix, just had to learn the button orientation and bike started/stopped without issue. Was pleased until I looked at the line. This is supposed to be plug n play but to me the line looks a bit short. I didn't do a true cable route just laid it in place, but I don't know it's looking like it's going to be a bit short and if it reaches there will be almost no slack. I could be wrong and once in final place it might work but I'd be surprised if it does. So thinking that panel that all these left front connectors lay on will have to go. If I'm lucky I might be able to get away with rearranging them. But I haven't been lucky with anything so far with this bike

The other thing was the 2020 throttle. It's got that magnetic thing so yeah very cautious about disassembling it. I looked and I could not find an installation manual from Jet Prime which is pretty lame. Yeah it appears to be pretty straight forward. But considering you have to remove the throttle and stuff to install you'd think they would have documented that. Took a look at the service manual and it doesn't look to bad, but without knowing how that throttle works and is calibrated have to admit that I'm a be hesitant about messing with it. but will see.
Or you could just cut the red wire, which act as a turned on power switch right now:
1016395


And connect your switch to those 2 new ends. Then some heat shrink tube or something.

I‘ve seen some vids, when they disassembled e-throttles on ducatis, you won’t have any problem with it.
Let’s get that dyno 😃
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
100 Posts
Discussion Starter #40
at the rate I'm going I'll never be able to afford a dyno run :( maybe I should start a gofundme page . I have to get in sync terminology wise with what everyone else is using apparently. When I did my search I looked for ignition switch/bypass and found nothing. Of course after it's too late I've ordered, received and opened the switch, I'm looking up best ways to wire/in case/mount this thing and I find stuff about race switch which lead me to this

1016405


apparently ready for the GYTR harness :( So got this coming now. That connector looks like what I need. Maybe it's just me but a kill switch and an ignition switch are two different things. To me the kill switch is that button on the bar where I can kill the power. You know the one at the "controversy" over the proper way to turn off a bike crap. I found the above off a BMW S1000RR mod vid when I saw it was Jetprime I went to their site and boom. I did verify this is the ignition. HSBK had it in stock so should have it early next week.

So probably should add to that prep list of having an actual build plan and doing thorough research BEFORE you start and/or purchase anything. Doing so will easily save time, $$$$ and frustration

Got my tires order but again drama. I absolutely love the Pirelli Supercosa TD tires. Love them been using them over a year now on my R6. But while I thought previously I had purchased a set that 190/55 if I did they don't make it anymore and only have 200/60 . I'm not a fan of the 200 55 or 60. Just personal tastes. Ordered it anyway, but just means after this set I'll probably end up running a Rosso Corsa II on the rear. Would have gotten the Supercorsa SP but for some stupid reason those cost almost $200 more then the TDs and don't last or grip any where as good. I don't run race tires as for me they are kind of waste of money and rubber. plus means more stuff I have to bring to the track (warmers/stands), etc.... The TDs are great, they last have fantastic grip. Warm up fast and are versatile so don't have to worry about that small operating window of race tires. But oh well. I did try the stock bridgestones that came with the bike for that first trackday. They were ok, but just verified that I really didn't like the 200. Don't want to go Dunlop but may end up heading that route in the future
 
21 - 40 of 68 Posts
Top