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Discussion Starter #41
on the subject of wasting cash....... had been toying with getting the GYTR upper clamp without the keyhole. With the purchase of the kill switch had to think about if I wanted to drill out the key ignition module. Would like the option to go back to stock. So found a used on ebay for $110. Thought it was a deal until I saw I could buy the OEM part new for $90..... so again research research research!!!!! lol
 

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Discussion Starter #42
100% sure it won't happen this year but was messing around with potential paint schemes. The new Ride 4 game isn't very good, but at least it lets you visualize things in your head. So came up with these. Just have to decide which route I prefer


My take on the GYTR motif but with Red instead of blue. Was going to do this to the blue on R1M anyway
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1016408


or this take on the 50th Anniversary scheme from a few years back. Always thought it looked classy

1016409


1016410
 

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Just food for thought, you mentioned not liking a 200/55 or 60. Should try and reconsider, and remember that you'll need to adjust your suspension as the tire will be taller. But I promise, when setup right it will give you more grip and confidence. I run the 200/65 and 125/70 WSBK Pirelli and they are life changing.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Thanks for the info. The R1M comes stock with 200/55 but yeah know I'd have to do setup if I went from 190/55 to 200/55-60 . Don't know. I'm really not that fast so don't know if it's worth the effort!!! lol

I know Yamaha has taken a lot of flack for the 2020 R1 but you know what it's not just them. Went back to work this morning and really just wanted to take a sledgehammer to the thing. Started working on the JetPrime right control and would it kill these companies to provide a manual even if it's a download able pdf? Just so you know what you are getting into BEFORE you start. Let me back up a sec.
bra
I mentioned previously concerns about messing with the 2020 R1 throttle. Turns out not really a big deal. the casing came apart easy enough (you do have to remove the brake bracket though for the final screw to clear). Once that's done it's pretty straight forward

1016411


Got a bit excited because it looked doable. Removed the bar end and the throttle tube slides right off ....no drama :) (but of course that comes later. and if you have sharp eyes looking at the pic you already know the issue). Removing the grip without an air compressor was a bit of work but only took about 15 minutes.

Getting the tube into the JetPrime housing is a little tricky but again no too much drama. You line up the groove to match the origination of the OEM and then everything else is pretty straight forward.

1016412


At first I thought it might be wrong because there isn't much travel, but compared to the OEM and it was the same so good on that. Next came the first bit of pain in the @$$. If you plain on doing installing one of these you are going to have to remove the upper clamp. I could not get the connectors through the gap so unless I missed something the cable will have to be fed through that gap for it to come out. Again would have been nice for a manual to lay the install out and I would have moved the bike to a better work position to take the upper clamp off. So wondered if I could work the cable down through the bottom and that's when things came to a halt

Did you see the issue from the throttle pic? Either the Yamaha guy who assembled my bike is an idiot, or Yamaha really don't want people messing with the throttle. Again my work space isn't the best but was having a time trying to right driver to remove the 2 screws that hold the throttle module in place to the housing. nothing I had seemed to fit, so was thinking I needed a special tool or something. But when I took a real close look it's just a Phillips head but appears they stripped it so it can't be removed. o_O😬😬

1016413

I've stripped my fair share of bolts, but I didn't do this. Never even got the chance too. I was just testing drivers to find one that fits. There isn't enough surface area to try and grab the head and twist it out with that, so the only option appears to be to break that plastic holder. Which I don't want to do in case I want to reuse the OEM unit at some point. I'll have to search around to see if anyone else ran into this on the 2020 R1. But at that point I just got really annoyed and said enough. Again it would have been really nice if there had been a manual stating what needed to be done for this installation.

I reassembled the OEM housing and called it a day. With that said I've got the Jet Prime Kill Switch coming next week but I probably won't install it or if I do I will just connect and zip tie it and not do the complete install. It's funny the actual installation of the harness which is what worried me the most has turned out to be the easiest least drama filled part of this whole project. Anyway with that said. Did pick up some foam to put under the CCU got that in place and put the tail together

1016414


Rectifier /regulator installed in place

1016415



Will have to figure something else out regarding the ECU connector for a cover. Turns out it didn't work out like I thought it would so at the moment they remain exposed.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Got the fairings mounted and off to take another 7-11 test run..... MORE DRAMA!!!!! Bike runs real rough. Thinking it just needs to warm up a bit. so at 7-11 while keeping an eye out for the cops lol let it run and then give it some throttle and it won't rev past 6km ...AAARRRRGGGGGHHHH!!!!!! Check all the modes and start thinking I may have broken the throttle or tripped something. Right when I was about to kick the bike over because my open ECU has limited my revs...... it hit me. I wonder if the pit limiter is enabled. Yeah it was. Turned it off and thing rev'd like a MOTHER!!!! Glorious!!! lol Bike seems to run a lot better when the pit limiter isn't enabled.

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At this point I'm just going to leave it for a bit. Once I get the tires mounted I'm just going to get it to the track and ride it. After that I'll finish this up in Dec.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
One question I do have is the electronic suspension. I'm not sure how it works. I did purchase the harness for it and connected it. Verified it was reading because if disconnected I get a warning. What I don't know is how it actually works. I didn't mess with it when I first rode it that one time last year. Basically straight from the dealership to the track. When I go into the YRC setting I see all the options for the suspension, but was curious how the system works. When the settings are changed is it something I should be able to hear happening or will I just feel the difference? I haven't had the bike setup yet so was going to do that. But when I started messing with things I didn't know how to tell if it was doing anything. Dumb question I know but have never had electronic suspension before.
 

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100% sure it won't happen this year but was messing around with potential paint schemes. The new Ride 4 game isn't very good, but at least it lets you visualize things in your head. So came up with these. Just have to decide which route I prefer


My take on the GYTR motif but with Red instead of blue. Was going to do this to the blue on R1M anyway
View attachment 1016407

View attachment 1016408

or this take on the 50th Anniversary scheme from a few years back. Always thought it looked classy

View attachment 1016409

View attachment 1016410
The black one is bettem imo.

Where did you get your kit ecu from? Yart? How much did the ecu and harness cost? I‘m seein 2,5k€, that’s some serious money 😃 still need one 😅
 

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Thanks for the info. The R1M comes stock with 200/55 but yeah know I'd have to do setup if I went from 190/55 to 200/55-60 . Don't know. I'm really not that fast so don't know if it's worth the effort!!! lol

I know Yamaha has taken a lot of flack for the 2020 R1 but you know what it's not just them. Went back to work this morning and really just wanted to take a sledgehammer to the thing. Started working on the JetPrime right control and would it kill these companies to provide a manual even if it's a download able pdf? Just so you know what you are getting into BEFORE you start. Let me back up a sec.
bra
I mentioned previously concerns about messing with the 2020 R1 throttle. Turns out not really a big deal. the casing came apart easy enough (you do have to remove the brake bracket though for the final screw to clear). Once that's done it's pretty straight forward

View attachment 1016411

Got a bit excited because it looked doable. Removed the bar end and the throttle tube slides right off ....no drama :) (but of course that comes later. and if you have sharp eyes looking at the pic you already know the issue). Removing the grip without an air compressor was a bit of work but only took about 15 minutes.

Getting the tube into the JetPrime housing is a little tricky but again no too much drama. You line up the groove to match the origination of the OEM and then everything else is pretty straight forward.

View attachment 1016412

At first I thought it might be wrong because there isn't much travel, but compared to the OEM and it was the same so good on that. Next came the first bit of pain in the @$$. If you plain on doing installing one of these you are going to have to remove the upper clamp. I could not get the connectors through the gap so unless I missed something the cable will have to be fed through that gap for it to come out. Again would have been nice for a manual to lay the install out and I would have moved the bike to a better work position to take the upper clamp off. So wondered if I could work the cable down through the bottom and that's when things came to a halt

Did you see the issue from the throttle pic? Either the Yamaha guy who assembled my bike is an idiot, or Yamaha really don't want people messing with the throttle. Again my work space isn't the best but was having a time trying to right driver to remove the 2 screws that hold the throttle module in place to the housing. nothing I had seemed to fit, so was thinking I needed a special tool or something. But when I took a real close look it's just a Phillips head but appears they stripped it so it can't be removed. o_O😬😬

View attachment 1016413
I've stripped my fair share of bolts, but I didn't do this. Never even got the chance too. I was just testing drivers to find one that fits. There isn't enough surface area to try and grab the head and twist it out with that, so the only option appears to be to break that plastic holder. Which I don't want to do in case I want to reuse the OEM unit at some point. I'll have to search around to see if anyone else ran into this on the 2020 R1. But at that point I just got really annoyed and said enough. Again it would have been really nice if there had been a manual stating what needed to be done for this installation.

I reassembled the OEM housing and called it a day. With that said I've got the Jet Prime Kill Switch coming next week but I probably won't install it or if I do I will just connect and zip tie it and not do the complete install. It's funny the actual installation of the harness which is what worried me the most has turned out to be the easiest least drama filled part of this whole project. Anyway with that said. Did pick up some foam to put under the CCU got that in place and put the tail together

View attachment 1016414

Rectifier /regulator installed in place

View attachment 1016415


Will have to figure something else out regarding the ECU connector for a cover. Turns out it didn't work out like I thought it would so at the moment they remain exposed.
Remove the bolt with this removal kit:
1016418
 

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Discussion Starter #51
pit limiter to go to the 7-11?
Don't understand the question. Basically the kit harness turns the flashers into a pit limiter. I had gotten engaged while I was working on the things and didn't notice. That is why the revs got restricted. Checking to see if pit limiter is engaged isn't something I usually have to do, so too me a moment to remember the bike has one now.


Remove the bolt with this removal kit:
I already have an extractor set (3 of them actually) but they are in storage with most of my tools. That is why I was a bit annoyed that the kit didn't have a manual. If it had stated that those bolts needed to be cut/drilled or whatever I would have gone and grabbed the appropriate tools before I started
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Where did you get your kit ecu from? Yart? How much did the ecu and harness cost? I‘m seein 2,5k€, that’s some serious money 😃 still need one 😅
I forget what I paid for it but it wasn't cheap. I got mine from Attack Performance since they are local and not to far from me. They are the official GYTR dealer for the US. The E-suspension harness and some other bits I got from YART. They have great service and insanely fast shipping. I think you have to look around because availability is seasonal, so depending on where you live may determine how long it takes to get one if they don't have them in stock. I do believe YART still has them in stock.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Ignition removed and now just waiting for the killswitch. Vortex V3 gas cap on the way
1016461



Re-routed the harness so that it's now behind the frame (between the cylinder block heat shied and the frame) instead of the outside. It going behind the frame and lower as opposed to outside and over the ecu gave me more tolerance in regards to how tight the cables where.

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The problem now is the dyno tune. The STK map is a bit rough. Haven't had much luck finding a local shop that knows the YEC software. Attack nor Graves are an option. So working on a solution. Debating if I should be patient or just use that STK map so I can make a trackday with it on Monday

Loaded up to have the suspension setup

1016463
 

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ok i can help you. I also have a 2020 gytr R1 in the garage. I'm in Europe. Had the install done by my dealer but i also did the jetprime switch. found a manual from bikesportdevelopments in the UK which basically offer the same product (but more expensive and probably better).


In short you need to use a small cutter for the security bolts and screw them out with a flat head screwdriver. However I already put the stock housing back. My bike didn't seem to run smoothly and sometimes it would just shut off. Dealer said it's probably because of the jetprime, they said the GYTR Ecu is a lot more sensitive than stock and it might be causing problems. And i have to admit it does seem to make a difference, so try not to destroy the oem plastic housing because you might need it later :D

I'm trying to send the Jetprime back but i already had it laying around for half a year so i'm probably fucked. I already had it on the bike when i was still breaking in the engine on the street (so stock bike) and it didn't give me any problems back then. So i guess my dealer may have a point about the gytr ecu sensitivity.

Also i have the jetprime quick throttle tube installed (because the "real" gytr ones are on backorder), you need to activate this in the gytr software. Better to have a shorter stroke on track.

I asked the dealer to leave a radiator fan in place so i can activate it manually when i finish my run and enter the pit/paddock so the bike doesn't overheat. Also i have an enlarged oil cooler on the bike just to be safe.

any more questions, i'm happy to help.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Thanks for the info!!! much appreciated. For sure didn't want to destroy any of the OEM stuff which is why I stopped. Getting those screws off really isn't a big deal, my main issue was that I didn't know about it before I had started. And if Jetprime had a short manual or anything that would have been a big help. It's interesting about your switch because JetPrime makes the GYTR switch. I got mine from YART and I don't know if the only difference is that it has the R1 logo engraved or something else but that will be a test for another day. I just put the OEM back on and left it.

Looking at your some of your photos, it looks like your was routed like I had originally routed my harness. Looking at how your connectors are I guess my issue was that I was trying to use that OEM mounting plate and that's why the tolerances were a bit tighter than I liked. Looking at another build it looked like they went between the frame and the heat shield on the top cylinder so that's where I'm at now. My fans are still in place just not connected. Was planning on doing a manual switch as well.

Curious what brand of fairings are those? I like that the harness cover is intergrated. I was probably going to order some Bikeplast fairings because they do the same thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Happiness is........ the little things in life like.... new tires :)

1016483


Pirelli renamed the TDs to SC3. Big ole 200/60 on the rear. Funny I could have sworn I had a 190/55 last year but turns out it was a 200/55 . They were originally on the 2020 R1 but after waiting around 8 months I took them off and put them on my 05 R1 since I wanted to take that bike out. I thought it was just the TDs because the bike felt simply AWESOME!!!!! At the end of the 4th day on them I was ready to do another day on them until I looked at them while loading up and saw they were just wear. But they had grip still!!! I can admit when I'm wrong so maybe the 200 isn't so bad after all lol. Can't wait to have a go on the O.Z wheels. First set of aftermarket wheels.

1016484


Guess I'm stuck with these things :( I tried to sell them but people kept trying to lowball me. They only have 353 miles on them but I'll find a use for them

1016485


I don't know just strange things happens to me with this bike. My rear caliper must be defective. I swapped wheels on my R6 no issue. not even 10 mins. Ditto for my 05 R1 . But with this one. The clamp that is supposed to hold the pads in doesn't work (for both OEM and O.Z wheels) so the pads constantly fall out when trying to put the wheel on. So end up having to remove them put the wheel on and then put the pads in. Very strange never had this issue. Ever. But oh well

Doesn't look like I'll get the dyno before the Monday trackday but should have a map tomorrow or Sat. It's off another R1 with a similar state of tune and kit ecu. They saw 193 at the rear on pump gas. I think I can live with that :) So right now just have to do a base setup, install the Vortex V3 gas cap and put the windscreen on and I should be good to go for Monday. Then I can do some more stuff before the following weekend when I'm back at Chuckwalla again.

Think I'm going to have to re-route the front brake lines. It wasn't an issue with the OEM fairings but with the Carbonin fairings they rub against the fairings slightly when the bar turns.
 

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Thanks for the info!!! much appreciated. For sure didn't want to destroy any of the OEM stuff which is why I stopped. Getting those screws off really isn't a big deal, my main issue was that I didn't know about it before I had started. And if Jetprime had a short manual or anything that would have been a big help. It's interesting about your switch because JetPrime makes the GYTR switch. I got mine from YART and I don't know if the only difference is that it has the R1 logo engraved or something else but that will be a test for another day. I just put the OEM back on and left it.

Looking at your some of your photos, it looks like your was routed like I had originally routed my harness. Looking at how your connectors are I guess my issue was that I was trying to use that OEM mounting plate and that's why the tolerances were a bit tighter than I liked. Looking at another build it looked like they went between the frame and the heat shield on the top cylinder so that's where I'm at now. My fans are still in place just not connected. Was planning on doing a manual switch as well.

Curious what brand of fairings are those? I like that the harness cover is intergrated. I was probably going to order some Bikeplast fairings because they do the same thing.
you said you knew other people that had issues with the jetprime? My dealer laughed at me when I said they make them for yart. He said yart is a full factory race bike. No way they use the stuff they sell on their webshop themselves. (My dealer also runs in EWC). Dealer uses the stock unit because the electronics are so delicate.

my fairings are Mac moto. From Eastern Europe somewhere. Very cheap, only 1200€ including dashboard holder. Not as nice as carbonin ofcourse but good fitment. They don’t really have a webshop though. Hard to contact.

I have a 2016 R1 as well with gytr loom. Went to a different tuner for that one at the time and they also routed it inside the frame. Indeed it’s cleaner when it’s all inside. Not as easy to access though if you need to get to a connector or something at the track.

I don’t mind it being outside since you can’t see it anyway with the fairings installed. But you’re right everything is a very tight fit. A bit too tight sometimes
 

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Happiness is........ the little things in life like.... new tires :)

View attachment 1016483

Pirelli renamed the TDs to SC3. Big ole 200/60 on the rear. Funny I could have sworn I had a 190/55 last year but turns out it was a 200/55 . They were originally on the 2020 R1 but after waiting around 8 months I took them off and put them on my 05 R1 since I wanted to take that bike out. I thought it was just the TDs because the bike felt simply AWESOME!!!!! At the end of the 4th day on them I was ready to do another day on them until I looked at them while loading up and saw they were just wear. But they had grip still!!! I can admit when I'm wrong so maybe the 200 isn't so bad after all lol. Can't wait to have a go on the O.Z wheels. First set of aftermarket wheels.

View attachment 1016484

Guess I'm stuck with these things :( I tried to sell them but people kept trying to lowball me. They only have 353 miles on them but I'll find a use for them

View attachment 1016485

I don't know just strange things happens to me with this bike. My rear caliper must be defective. I swapped wheels on my R6 no issue. not even 10 mins. Ditto for my 05 R1 . But with this one. The clamp that is supposed to hold the pads in doesn't work (for both OEM and O.Z wheels) so the pads constantly fall out when trying to put the wheel on. So end up having to remove them put the wheel on and then put the pads in. Very strange never had this issue. Ever. But oh well

Doesn't look like I'll get the dyno before the Monday trackday but should have a map tomorrow or Sat. It's off another R1 with a similar state of tune and kit ecu. They saw 193 at the rear on pump gas. I think I can live with that :) So right now just have to do a base setup, install the Vortex V3 gas cap and put the windscreen on and I should be good to go for Monday. Then I can do some more stuff before the following weekend when I'm back at Chuckwalla again.

Think I'm going to have to re-route the front brake lines. It wasn't an issue with the OEM fairings but with the Carbonin fairings they rub against the fairings slightly when the bar turns.

Try safety wiring the back pad to the caliper. Since its a rear brake the caliper piston only pushes from one side. This is how I run mine. Also look into the Fast Frank Underslung Caliper Mount. Makes changing wheels so much easier. Check out the attached pic for safety wire.
I may have a buddy that will scoop up those wheels from you. He’s local in LA. What are you trying to get for them?

1016492
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Thanks for the tip, I have the Fast Frank mod on my R6 and it's awesome. But that's not actually the problem happening here. On the front part of the caliper where the pad rests on the lip is the issue. That clip that holds it in place so it doesn't move doesn't hold it in place! lol Right now I just want to ride the thing so now that I got my tires mounted and the wheels on I'm not going to worrying about it. Over the next couple weeks I have 4 trackdays, once those are done then I'll take a deep look at that caliper. The YART chain adjuster came with an under slung caliper mount that I don't have installed at the moment. So when I put that on I'll take a look because I have to remove the whole thing and install a different brake line.
 
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