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· To infinity and beyond!!
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone, I have a 2006 R1. It will turn over and run then stumble and die. If I put it in a higher gear it will idle for a few seconds longer then die. Now before you go crazy saying this has been addressed listen to everything I have changed.

I have put in new plugs which are getting spark, i have swapped out the throttle bodies, injectors, fuel rail, fuel regulator, fuel pump, battery, made sure there are no kinks in the lines, the butterflies open and close on ignition, i have tried two sets of TPS's, i have done the lean angle sensor mod, I'm litterally at a loss. If i put the bike in gear and hold the clutch in then it will pull it a little.

Also, if i do as much as bump the throttle it will not rev and it will kill it, However if i open the throttle while I try to start it then it will recognize the throttle and rev upon start up then die.

Also, when I'm in gear holding the clutch in it is nearly impossible to push the bike.

Please tell me someone has an idea. I'm seriously at a loss. :saw:
 

· To infinity and beyond!!
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
****UPDATE****

I was in the garage playing with it. In diag mode it will not throw or show any codes. Again if i do as much as bump the throttle it will die and of course after starting it will kill itself. If I leave the key on it will be hard to start again. However, if I turn the key off and back on it will start right back up and then kill itself 10-15 seconds later. Could this be an ECU issue since the bike will not take ANY throttle at all. I know its not a TPS sensor.
 

· Is there anybody out there?
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Check your main switch(key). You should have a plug near the ignition. Locate and unplug it. Check the resistance between the blue/black and blue/yellow wires. Remember, you're just checking the switch. Also check the resistance for your main power(red and brown/blue wires). I'd perform the test several times but turn the key off then on between checks. The blue/black and blue/yellow wires run through your starting circuit cut off relay to your ECU. If there's high resistance, your ECU won't be happy.

Mark
 

· To infinity and beyond!!
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The bike has been sitting for 5 years. Last time it was registered was 2009. It was seized by the government and I won it at auction. Ive been able to get it to start and idle for about 10 seconds but thats it.
 

· To infinity and beyond!!
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Checked the voltage for the regulator, relay under the seat, across the battery, and the two plugs in the bottom of the fuel pump. Everything's voltage is correct. I did try something though. I unplugged the white plug from under the tank that is by the return hose for the fuel pressure regulator. The bike idled fine twice for a few seconds then started idleing bad and killed itself. It's the first time it idled normal though.

So with that being said the voltage is fine running to the fuel pump but I was told if the pressure in the tank is too high the pump wont cut on. Is it possible the fuel pump is clogged up where the return line comes back into the tank? I'm a little lost right now.
 

· To infinity and beyond!!
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I put a new fuel pump in it already. Also, I already tested the connectors to it. The pump primes and the voltage is all correct.
 

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So with that being said the voltage is fine running to the fuel pump but I was told if the pressure in the tank is too high the pump wont cut on. Is it possible the fuel pump is clogged up where the return line comes back into the tank? I'm a little lost right now.
I can see why you are lost, you seem to have tried all the obvious things. And the non-obvious ones too.

Is there any way to check the fuel pressure? Maybe test the voltage out of a sensor (if there is one). My bike has "just worked" for the last 15 years and I have never needed to look at that stuff.

Have you tried running with the fuel cap open? (just wondering about the hoses / breathers / return lines inside there.
 

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Also, when I'm in gear holding the clutch in it is nearly impossible to push the bike.
This is probably not related. But the clutch actuator lever in the clutch cover needs to engage the rack on the pull-rod in the clutch basket on the correct tooth for the clutch to work properly. It may be that the engagement there is wrong. Does the clutch lever feel normal?

There again, it could just be a sticky clutch that will sort itself out once the bike has run an been ridden a bit.
 

· To infinity and beyond!!
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I have tried to run the bike with the fuel cap open. The clutch actuates normal. However, the plates seem to be VERY VERY tight after sitting for so long. While it's on the stand I can put it in gear and the bike will still idle and die. However, in neutral with the clutch out the rear wheel will not spin at all.

I wish I could ride it and it work itself out but the bike will not idle longer than 10-15 seconds before it kills itself.
 

· To infinity and beyond!!
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So I went into Diagnostic mode. When I actuate D50 which is the fuel injection relay it is my understanding the fuel pump is suppose to actuate each time the relay clicks. My relay clicks but my fuel pump does nothing.

Please let me know if I'm correct about Diag D50. I'm very curious if it is just a bad relay. There's no doubt the motor is starving itself of fuel. Keep in mind the pump primes to start the bike but that is it. I cant hear it run after that.
 

· To infinity and beyond!!
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
It is a 12 pin relay. I doubt I can just jump it....I've looked all over the place and it doesn't seem I can? I can be totally wrong though. I checked the voltage to the plugs running to the fuel pump under the tank and it never drops off though.
 

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So I went into Diagnostic mode. When I actuate D50 which is the fuel injection relay it is my understanding the fuel pump is suppose to actuate each time the relay clicks. My relay clicks but my fuel pump does nothing.

Please let me know if I'm correct about Diag D50. I'm very curious if it is just a bad relay. There's no doubt the motor is starving itself of fuel. Keep in mind the pump primes to start the bike but that is it. I cant hear it run after that.
If you can hear the fuel pump priming after the ignition is turned on that does not mean that the fuel gets to the injectors. Something so simple as kink in the fuel hose can be a problem here. I suggest checking for it under the tank especially if you've replaced the pump and fiddled with fuel hoses routing.
 

· To infinity and beyond!!
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The bike will start. it just stalls out after a few seconds. If I cut the bike off and back on and let it prime again it will do the same thing. It's like its burining the fuel out of the rail and once the rail is empty thats it and stalls out. Once the bike starts up I cant hear the pump running anymore. I know the injectors are spraying but only til the rail is empty.
 

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I have a very vague recollection of the same symptoms after the bike shop serviced my bike the first time. (They didn't get the chance again). That was 11 years ago, so memory is vague.

Try pivoting the tank up on the back bolt so you can _see_ that every hose is un-kinked. Then run it.
 
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