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Registered Adrenaline Junkie
2,490 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
OK. So here's my write-up on how I cut my titaniun cans down almost 2"...

Things I needed.

- PATIENCE... Liquor helps with this, when it gets annoying/hard just take a break.
- Rotory tool & drill... Dremmel or the likes, with LOTS of cut-off wheels (or the reinforced bad-boys I have). And any drill will do, just have good/sharp bits and more than one just in case.
- Basic hand-tools... To remove the body-work and exhaust itself (5mm & 6mm hex-wrenches, 12mm regular wrench, phillips screw-driver), rivet-gun and rivets.
- More patience... See 3rd item.
- General "supplies"... Good, strudy, sharp scissors or shears, some kinda tape (I used black elec.), tape measure, pencil, safety glasses, Zip-Lock bag.

STEPS (each step is sequenced to corresponding numerical picture)

1. Prepare yourself... :beer Get all the things you'll need together, it makes for a smoother process...


1.c (most important!)

2. Removing the tail-section. Rear seat, front seat, 2 plastic 'screw/push-pins' under front seat, 1 metal hex-bolt holding the rear, then the 2 "push-pins" under the sides holding it to the undertail.

3. Detach the cable from the seat-lock.

4. Remove the covers concealing the hanger-bolts. Undo 1 hanger (pick a side!) leaving the bolt in but un-threaded.

5. Undo the V-clamps holding the pipe on.

6. Gently (some 'force' required) wiggle the exhaust off the 'Y'-pipe, being carefull with the hanger-braket contacting the undertail or sticker.

7. Voila! Now the REAL fun begins... At this point, the G/F made me a re-fill and I had a smoke... :sneaky
6. & 7.

8. Drill out the rivets. I opted to remove the shell from the bottom to save the factory sticker (which I scratched removing from the bike, see #6.), so I drilled the ones in the front. Use a 5/32 or 3/16 bit. DONT drill to wide, you need to re-use the band. And DONT drill too hard, you just wanna take the head off the rivet so you're left with a 'ring'. Once it falls of, push the center of the rivet thru into the packing with the bit (not turning!). Pry band off with knife or similar if need be.

9. (NO PIC, optional depending on which end you remove material from) Separate the inner tube from the baffle/shell (This is the part where I needed the patience the most!) by 'tapping' it on the end-cap end, on a "non-mark surface" (ie: carpet) to jar it free of the packing. Let the weight of the can do the "jarring" back and forth, as you alternate sides (use a down-ward and towards-you motion on the sides to jar it and 'pull' it out of the shell). If you drilled the rivets closest to the end-cap & are gonna buy new stickers, ignore this step & just wiggle the end-cap off instead.

10. Once you remove the perforated center-tube, gently remove the fiberglass baffle from the can (wear gloves & long sleeves, I still itch...:crash ). Mine had a semi-fine woven envelope around it, which promptly rips with any real force, so take your time. And the rivets fetch it up too. (I think I had another Crown somewhere around here as well...!) :beer

11. Get your tape and tape measure. Figure out EXACTELY how much you wanna remove and make a mark with the pencil. Repeat 5-6 times around the can then re-check the measurements and scribe them. Tape a 'strait' line around the can with the tape on the side you're cutting off (This entire step can be done now or before you remove the internals).

12. I'm taking a break right now from typing this... LOL

13. BEFORE YOU START CUTTING, PUT ON YOUR SAFETY GLASSES..! You'll quickly see why I changed to the (1/32" maybe) reinforced discs if you use the 1/40" cut-off discs once you start.

14. Let er' rip... Start from left to right, that way the sparks don't shoot in the direction you want to cut. Be fluid, use 2 hands to guide it along the edge using your finger(s) as a guide. Make passes about 3-5" along the tape using "moderate" pressure (depending on what kinda disc you use) to ensure good "scoring". This way, when the heat of the cutting melts the tape away from "the line", you have a good reference mark to go by. Patience is required here for sure, make your way around & around untill it falls off. Repeat for the final cut, adjusting your technique to suit, taking your time to ensure an even/flat cut. Once finished, take the scrap piece and line it up so you can scribe the new hole locations (short mark easily covered by the band) from the factory ones. And smooth/even the edge as neccesary.

15. Measure the same distance on the (top of) perforated pipe and let er' have it. I just cut it at the closest row of holes circling the pipe, just cut in-between the holes and it'll be a strait line.
15. (pic for illustration only, dont cut here)

16. Removing baffle material. PUT ON GLOVES & LONG SLEEVES, the baffle material is fiberglass and it itches like a SOAB! Cut one edge of the 'envelope' (if you need to, it probably ripped abit like mine) at one end. Peel it back to expose the fiberglass and cut out about the same width as you cut off the perforated core & can. I used the piece from the core as a guide. Fold the edge over when complete, to try to retain the packing.

17. Again using the core piece as a guide, score/mark the fine-mesh intermediate. Cut strait up from the end to that line (5-6 times) to create 'tabs', fold them outlike a star and fold each tab back in as you cut it. This makes it sooo much easier. And make sure you have sharp scissors or shears, its very fine stuff.

18. You should be left with 3 pieces that are 'X' inches shorter than 'X' minutes ago... Slide the wire-mesh over the core, but not all the way down. Wrap it with the fiberglass baffle very tightly and slide it to the bottom, letting the front-cap to hold it together sorta. Then put it all back together, it takes abit more "patience" here. :beer The can HAS to be on the cap the same amount as when it came off so the new holes for the rivets line-up.
*DO NOT BEAT IT DOWN BY SLAMMING IT ON THE END-CAP! you WILL bend it in, trust me, and its even harder to get the dent out...

19. Place the band (tightly) around the pipe exactely where its supposed to go then tape it in place. Scribe the holes using the lines you scribed earlier as reference. Place the tip of a nail/screw in the ceter of the spot and "tap" with a small hammer or pliers, just enough to make a pin-hole sized dent. Start with a 5/64" bit (very-small) making a pilot hole, followed by the 5/32" hole for the new rivet. AS SOON AS THE BIT GOES THRU LET-OFF & PULL-OUT! The fiberglass will go everywhere. Drill the 4 holes & rivet band in place. (NO PIC)

20. DO IT ALL OVER AGAIN to the other side!!! The 2nd time round is much easier/faster. The 1st side took me 2-3 hours total, the 2nd maybe 45 minutes... Then reinstall on the bike and...

:cool: Enjoy...

:sleepy: This post took me as long as the first pipe (2.5 hrs !!!) :vanish Holy cutting&pasting Batman...!

I have titanium in my bones
600 Posts
Good job... one of the few riders with the skills to do it right.
I did my Graves round's on my '04 a few years ago.
Choppin' the '07 Graves pretty soon here, right after I'm done buildin' the skate park in my backyard.

Registered Adrenaline Junkie
2,490 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanx all

:) Appreciate the comments. The skill level required for this (out of 10, 1 being very easy & 10 requiring a service tech w/shop) would probably be around 4 or 5... I was blessed with the tool/mechanical apptitude gene, so this came relatively easy. Not to mention I do have all the tools I need to do things like this, the only thing I need is a compressor (I already have all new air-tools) and a dyno... :sneaky

* FOR THE RECORD - another reason I chose to cut the bottom, if you dont cut it strait its easier to hide than at the rear where everyone can see the wavey edge and different rivets... :crash

I wish I was :riding right now... Lucky bastage, Skard...!

have you seen my dog
74 Posts
i have some satos i would like to do this to. its been custom map , it sound beautiful and runs just as good as it sounds . shortning it would make me a 100 percent happy. does anyone know if this mod affects performance and sound ?

Registered Adrenaline Junkie
2,490 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
I have some Satos I would like to do this to. Its been custom mapped, sounds beautiful, and runs just as good as it sounds .
Shortening it would make me 100% happier. Does anyone know if this mod affects performance and sound ?
Performance, probably not... Sound, more than likely...!!! :fact

DO IT !!! :sneaky

my R1 is inside of you
275 Posts
:bow great write up bro looks great! can't wait to do mine. I hope the carbon cuts as easy as the metal :dunno

Heckler & Koch Insured
104 Posts
nice write up there Fish!!

so how many glasses of crown did this job take?!?!
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