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Okay, so playing around with this issue a bit more. I went to find the blue wires and was a bit confused. While I was looking at things, I was in the Diagnostic mode on item 03 and 02. It was crazy—when I moved the wiring around, the values in 03 and 02 would spike around, moving as much 5. My experience is when the two values are out of whack by more than 2, you get the error code.

This is clear evidence something is wrong with the wiring, not the ECU or the sensors themselves.

Next, to try and better see things, I pulled the ECU off. I later put it back on. Interestingly enough, the 02 and 03 values went from being off to being dead on. Then I tried moving the wiring around. To my dismay, the 03 and 02 values would NOT spike around!

I really don’t know much about wiring and electricity, but I’m wondering if by unplugging the ECU is unleashed some electrical resistance build up, maybe like grounding a wire. This might explain why some people have temporary success with unplugging a sensor or swapping the ECU only to have the problem come back latter as the wiring builds up resistance.

Does anyone have any thoughts on this? Also, I did not get to actually repair my problem. Trying to solder that wire together looks really hard. I’m considering it might be easier to do what duttonwebb did by wiring the two blue wires together near the sensors. This is actually pretty easy on the 2015+ as the two sensors are very close together. The negative to this is having to remove the tank and air box to get to the sensors, but that seems easier the dealing with the tight space in the wiring harness.

Does anyone have any thoughts about the good and bad of doing it at the sensor level vs in the wiring harness? Am I correct in that linking the two blue wires near the sensor is the same mechanically as in the wiring harness?


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Premium Member
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Okay, so playing around with this issue a bit more. I went to find the blue wires and was a bit confused. While I was looking at things, I was in the Diagnostic mode on item 03 and 02. It was crazy—when I moved the wiring around, the values in 03 and 02 would spike around, moving as much 5. My experience is when the two values are out of whack by more than 2, you get the error code.

This is clear evidence something is wrong with the wiring, not the ECU or the sensors themselves.

Next, to try and better see things, I pulled the ECU off. I later put it back on. Interestingly enough, the 02 and 03 values went from being off to being dead on. Then I tried moving the wiring around. To my dismay, the 03 and 02 values would NOT spike around!

I really don’t know much about wiring and electricity, but I’m wondering if by unplugging the ECU is unleashed some electrical resistance build up, maybe like grounding a wire. This might explain why some people have temporary success with unplugging a sensor or swapping the ECU only to have the problem come back latter as the wiring builds up resistance.

Does anyone have any thoughts on this? Also, I did not get to actually repair my problem. Trying to solder that wire together looks really hard. I’m considering it might be easier to do what duttonwebb did by wiring the two blue wires together near the sensors. This is actually pretty easy on the 2015+ as the two sensors are very close together. The negative to this is having to remove the tank and air box to get to the sensors, but that seems easier the dealing with the tight space in the wiring harness.

Does anyone have any thoughts about the good and bad of doing it at the sensor level vs in the wiring harness? Am I correct in that linking the two blue wires near the sensor is the same mechanically as in the wiring harness?


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It might be that the ECU selfcalibrate, and the Reading clears and look ok, but im pretty godamn sure the source of your problems (like many others had) can be traced back to that crimp. Soldering the two wires together will probly work aswell, but you dont get a delta reading from the atmospheric and intakte sensors.. I guess they are there for a reason.

Regarding that it looks hard to fix, I made it easyer with just cutting the crimp, and soldered an extra 4" of wiering in. Made it much more room to slide new heatshrink tubes onto the harness, and have some extra room to work with. It would sertantly be helpful if you have a friend that could hold the wiering with a pair of pilers while soldering.
I did it alone, and it was kind a patience test, but defintly doable if you take your time.
Best of luck, You can do it! 🙏😎
 

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Venom X/O
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25,673 Posts
Reviving this thread. The code finally bit me today. Take a peek at this quick video. Post 30 will likely solve my issue but I have no experience soldering wires or anything like that, so I’m a little hesitant to work on this quite yet. Little more work to do.

 

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Premium Member
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137 Posts
Yeah so frustrating this happens. So I unplugged the ECU and moved the wires around like you show in the video. Whatever unplugging the ECU did, the fault code has not come back in over a thousand miles of use.

If it happens more frequently, then I think you have to fix the wires to get it to stop. So dumb for sure.


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Venom X/O
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25,673 Posts
Yeah so frustrating this happens. So I unplugged the ECU and moved the wires around like you show in the video. Whatever unplugging the ECU did, the fault code has not come back in over a thousand miles of use.

If it happens more frequently, then I think you have to fix the wires to get it to stop. So dumb for sure.


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Appears so. I wonder how Yamaha fixed it for the newer models because no way this common issue is still unchanged. Just that little bit of movement on the harness shouldn’t change the value in the sensor that much to throw a code. Riding vibration would affect it 😡😡
 
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