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test ride...on all modes (B/STR/A). start full throttle from 6k RPM and when reached 10k bike slows down...you can feel just for 0.2s but it feel and you can see even on RPM, after 11k RPM it goes well. Huge difference using unrestricted IMAGE and Tad158!!! what can cause this? Bad air filter?
 

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Astronomer not Astrologer
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What does your air filter look like? When was the last time you changed it?

My bike does not "slow down above 10k", fuel line kinked? But that wouldn't change from flash to flash....
 

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Astronomer not Astrologer
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Hahaha!

Pics!

Going to say my bike is pulling like a freight train today at NJMP.

Dropped two seconds today:rock....still slow though....
 

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Hey yall,

Was hoping maybe for some quick insight here. I've been running Tad's map for a little bit now on my 2013 and the only thing I dont really like on it is the idle is a bit high. It seems like once it gets hot it idles around 16-1700 and the anti stall is around 2k. I was wondering if there is an easy way to bring the idle down more to 1200ish and the anti stall closer to 1500? I did notice I turned off the extended idle warm up and it seemed to idle right about where I wanted but the engine braking was increased and it was popping on decel out the exhaust. Not sure what the significance of extending the warmup idle would have on across the rpm changes though. Also, whats the SAP pressure comp do? I havent been able to find any description on what that actually does.

Thanks in advance everybody
 

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Astronomer not Astrologer
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That is a dragon I have not been able to slay.....The idle is something that I sorta gave up on a while back, due to the fact that nothing I changed really had any effect on the actual idle....that and I stopped riding street, and the anti-stall is kinda handy for putting through the pits, as it tows the bike at 8 MPH with no throttle input. The reduction in engine breaking of the extended warm up idle has such a nice side effect when enabled, so I just accepted the slightly elevated idle.

Aside from you want it lower, what is the real motivation behind that?
 

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That is a dragon I have not been able to slay.....The idle is something that I sorta gave up on a while back, due to the fact that nothing I changed really had any effect on the actual idle....that and I stopped riding street, and the anti-stall is kinda handy for putting through the pits, as it tows the bike at 8 MPH with no throttle input. The reduction in engine breaking of the extended warm up idle has such a nice side effect when enabled, so I just accepted the slightly elevated idle.

Aside from you want it lower, what is the real motivation behind that?

Main motivation is at idle its 12mph so Im always riding the clutch. I suppose its ok, I was just hoping there was a way to reduce it a few hundred rpm. Seems odd that it hangs higher after its warmed up than during warm up. Even if there was no anti stall and the idle was the idle, whether or not it was in gear, I would be fine with that.
 

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Astronomer not Astrologer
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-1 up front.....:sneaky.....Better drive off the corner....
 

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-1 up front.....:sneaky.....Better drive off the corner....

Yeah, honestly I probably will end up doing that when I go to replace the OEM chain. Im iffy on it though because the reason I picked up the r1 was because I did a 3 day ride on my gsxr600 (that is geared down for fun factor) and we ended up riding the highway for 6 hours straight (limping home a broken superhawk) and the R's were about 9k for hours on end. Ended up losing half the fasteners and vibrating my hands and feet to sleep by the time we got home, so I decided to pick up something that didnt need to be geared down to be fun
 

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Astronomer not Astrologer
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In 6th with the -1 in front it cruises at about 5.5K for 70 MPH....

Stock it was about 5K for the same speed....not a huge difference because 6th is so low of a gear.

https://www.gearingcommander.com/
 

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Tad158 !! neeed help from you :) noticed strange thing...on a truck with your maps on my R1 2012 she's insane! Thanks for this! But on a street then we are doing stupid things :)) wheelies....as more throttle I use on a 2nd gear more slipping clutch feels (don't even talk about 3rd....)! With full throttle and popping clutch feels like she's not catch it..need to help with hands. If re-flashed with unrestricted slipon+y pipe I almost drop my R1 when it's jumps on 2nd gear with a clutch :))

before you ask..friction plates+plates totally new (changed week ago) + STM clutch.

What can cause this strange thing? Can you help me to adjust something with a fuel that my R1 will go a little more aggressive than using FTecu slipon+y pipe map?
 

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Tad158 !! neeed help from you :) noticed strange thing...on a truck with your maps on my R1 2012 she's insane! Thanks for this! But on a street then we are doing stupid things :)) wheelies....as more throttle I use on a 2nd gear more slipping clutch feels (don't even talk about 3rd....)! With full throttle and popping clutch feels like she's not catch it..need to help with hands. If re-flashed with unrestricted slipon+y pipe I almost drop my R1 when it's jumps on 2nd gear with a clutch :))

before you ask..friction plates+plates totally new (changed week ago) + STM clutch.

What can cause this strange thing? Can you help me to adjust something with a fuel that my R1 will go a little more aggressive than using FTecu slipon+y pipe map?
What you are saying sounds pretty confusing to me. I think you probably just need to adjust your throttle maps if wheelies are giving you a hard time. The tune itself should be fine as long as the bike runs well at all RPMS under various loads and throttle applications.

You should turn B mode into a map that you feel comfortable using for wheelies and just switch to that when you want to wheelie. You can import the throttle map from any tune into Tads tune without affecting the tuning mixture or how the bike runs at all as far as engine efficiency\performance... It will just make the bike more or less twitchy when you twist the throttle.

If i were you i would choose the throttle map you are most comfortable with and tweak it a bit to your wheelie likes and store it as B mode. Make small adjustments and obviously test it riding on 2s before pulling up into wheelies with that map each time.

You have your traction control completely off too... Right?
 

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Cold tires on the street.....I can send the wheel sky high on hot slicks on 2nd with just rolling on the throttle hard....I think you are just spinning the rear up...
 

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I have "TYPE2" ( R1 - 2009 - 2014 ) ... But I sell RN22 and I looking for RN19/20 or GSXR-1000 (2007-2008), someone knows if the interface will match for RN19 or Suzuki :/ ??
 

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Cold tires on the street.....I can send the wheel sky high on hot slicks on 2nd with just rolling on the throttle hard....I think you are just spinning the rear up...
so my problem solved...STM spring change to new :) that's all...

next question..at high speed..6th gear and 12k RPM...if i use full throttle it seems like I stuck on 12k rpm and can't get my top speed 299. if I release throttle just a little bit it start going normal...any ideas?
 

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:facepalm.....
 

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So Tad, maybe you have and advice what to change on FTecu to help reach max speed? because it's sometimes annoying when friends next to me with gsxr+cbr goes faster after 280km/h on highway :). Always need to release a little thottle to feel power after that speed
 

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I think you should be replacing gearing and maybe extend the rev limiter a bit, but then you compromise your down low performance. I see no practical use for this.

Top speed is never really a priority since you rarely make use of it anyway
 
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