[jjjr6]

Hi fellas.

I've got a bit of a problem, and is just wondering if anyone else has experienced anything similar with their R1's/R6's. My R6 was experiencing what I thought was clutch slippage. Accelerating out of 2nd gear, changing to 3rd, the engine revs would stay about the same, though the speed would slowly pick up. The same would happen when shifting from 3rd to 4th, and might carry on in each gear after that. It wasn't so bad at Eastern Creek, but then at Broady 2 weeks ago, it was every single lap. Then, at the end of the day, I couldn't select gears properly, and it was like something was jamming the shifter. I pulled in, and found that I could not select Neutral when the bike was on the race stand. I waited about 10 minutes, then had to really put a lot of weight on the shifter to make it shift gears, and eventually found Neutral. So, I thought I had clutch slip and the clutch was f*(ked, and the jury was out as to whether or not the gear selection problem had anything to do with the clutch at all.

So, today I took the bike down to my Uncle who is a mechanic, and we pulled the clutch out. Turns out the clutch looks almost brand new, and there is no evidence of slippage/discolouration of the plates/warped plates/ broken springs or anything else wrong. While the clutch was out, I also showed him the gear selection problem, so that tells us the clutch has nothing to do with it. I'm going to send him the R6 Full Workshop Manual I have so he can check it out, but in the meantime, has anyone had any problems similar to this with their bikes in the past, and if so what did you do to fix it, and is a new gearbox/rebuild on the cards do you think? We thought also that maybe the oil I'm using (Motul 7100) might have something to do with it, but probably not.

Any useful info or advice would be appreciated.

Cheers.
JJ

 

[rolling burnout]

Fully synthetic oils can cause clutch slip/drag,but not sure about your gear selection problems.

 

[timritchieblue]

Look @ The Steels, My Clutch Looked Great, But The Steels Where Blued, And Had Hot Spots.

 

[yamahog]

Look @ The Steels, My Clutch Looked Great, But The Steels Where Blued, And Had Hot Spots.

I have seen this before myself. I have also seen people only change the fiber discs and try to re use the steel. This simply leads to premature failure again.

 

[jjjr6]

Thanks for the quick replies guys. The steels look fine as well, there are no ridges, hot spots, warpage or signs of wear anywhere.

Graeme, it is a fully synthetic oil, so perhaps I might try an oil that isn't and see how it goes.

Cheers.
JJ

 

[Leader]

I had an '02 R6 and thought the clutch was slipping, really noticeable in 2nd gear when I hammered it.

I took it to a shop and it turned out that the 2nd gear and 6th gear plates were completely cracked all the way through. Still amazed I was even able to get it into the gears (all kinds of little metal pieces in the clutch basket). Had to have them replaced. Obviously, you stated your plates are fine so my problem is not your problem, but figured I'd mention anyhow.

 

[fc2k]

I wouldn't have thought the clutch would have had any influence on how heavy the shifter was? :dunno

What about selector shafts etc? :dunno

 

[yamahog]

You did mention one other interesting fact and that was that you are using a fully synthetic oil. If it is not motorycle specific there have been cases of car oil causing clutch slippage. Could this be your problem?

 

[Pavmatic]

subscribed

 

[turd1]

selector forks for the hard to get in gear prob. and check the steel clutch plates on a pane of flat glass. and change to castrol 10-60 oil.( the expensive stuff) it's avaliable at autobarns etc.

 

[fc2k]

yer with the plates, put them all together and hold them up to a light... see if you can see any light coming through inbetween them. :yesnod

 

[jjjr6]

The clutch plates (friction and steel) are all perfectly flat and not warped at all. As mentioned before, the clutch looks almost brand new, and none of the other parts (carrier etc...) have cracks and are not otherwise structurally damaged.

The oil I am using is motorcycle specific, I never use anything other than motorcycle oil in motorcycles - especially a race bike. It's Motul 7100, 10W40, 100% fully synthetic, and ain't cheap (about $80 for 4 litres). This is quoted from the back of the bottle - "Meets bike manufacturer specifications. Excellent shear resistance protecting engine and gearbox. Smooth shifting. JASO MA approved, wet cllutch anti slipping technology."

So apparently this oil is supposed to prevent everything I am having problems with. Do you think it might even be worth before pulling the transmission out, changing to a different oil and seeing if anything changes? I am using Motul 5100 in my GSXR which is semi-synthetic. Should I bang some of that in perhaps?

Cheers.
JJ

 

[turd1]

The clutch plates (friction and steel) are all perfectly flat and not warped at all. As mentioned before, the clutch looks almost brand new, and none of the other parts (carrier etc...) have cracks and are not otherwise structurally damaged.

The oil I am using is motorcycle specific, I never use anything other than motorcycle oil in motorcycles - especially a race bike. It's Motul 7100, 10W40, 100% fully synthetic, and ain't cheap (about $80 for 4 litres). This is quoted from the back of the bottle - "Meets bike manufacturer specifications. Excellent shear resistance protecting engine and gearbox. Smooth shifting. JASO MA approved, wet cllutch anti slipping technology."

So apparently this oil is supposed to prevent everything I am having problems with. Do you think it might even be worth before pulling the transmission out, changing to a different oil and seeing if anything changes? I am using Motul 5100 in my GSXR which is semi-synthetic. Should I bang some of that in perhaps?

Cheers.
JJ

not if your selector forks are bent.

 

[jjjr6]

selector forks for the hard to get in gear prob. and check the steel clutch plates on a pane of flat glass. and change to castrol 10-60 oil.( the expensive stuff) it's avaliable at autobarns etc.

I wouldn't have thought the clutch would have had any influence on how heavy the shifter was? :dunno

What about selector shafts etc? :dunno

I'm wondering about the selector forks guys, it is entirely possible. Only way to find out I guess is to pull the transmission out.

 

[turd1]

I'm wondering about the selector forks guys, it is entirely possible. Only way to find out I guess is to pull the transmission out.

thats exactly what i'd be doing before anything else.:fact

 

[turd1]

and while you are in there to help eliminate the clutch slip, why not use 2 diaphragm springs, if the r6 uses a diaphragm style clutch?

 

[jjjr6]

thats exactly what i'd be doing before anything else.:fact

Thanks Greggy, sounds like the way to go. Appreciate the advice. :thumbup

Thanks for the thoughts/ideas too guys.

JJ

 

[rolling burnout]

Put the bike on a paddock stand,start the Engine(with oil in it) and try changing gears that way.If the selector fork is bent it will be difficult to go up and down the box.
The semi synthetic Oil is the way to go,Fully synthetic for road based bikes is a waste of money and can cause problems like I mentioned earlier..Different story for a race engine,which probably gets changed every 2-300K's.

 

[jjjr6]

and while you are in there to help eliminate the clutch slip, why not use 2 diaphragm springs, if the r6 uses a diaphragm style clutch?

To be honest, I'm not sure if it is that style or not. I am learning about this stuff now. I know what it looks like, and how it works, but I'm not sure of the style, sorry mate. I'll ask my uncle, and I'll suggest it to him though.

 

[turd1]

To be honest, I'm not sure if it is that style or not. I am learning about this stuff now. I know what it looks like, and how it works, but I'm not sure of the style, sorry mate. I'll ask my uncle, and I'll suggest it to him though.

lol, does it use a flatish 'flying saucer ' type spring, or the helically wound individual springs that look like car valve springs?