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Super Moderator
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martinc said:
Very effective,give me your questions,but I"m hardly ever here...

:lol
Now that's friggin' funny!!! :lol :lol
 

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The former Stop Doc
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Discussion Starter #23
JoeC said:
OK Sergio. What about brake judder? I had a situation with my stock brakes - 30K miles - where I was getting this vibration when braking hard. Seemed worse at higher speeds, especially during track days. Rotors were not warped, but seemed to have glazed spots or something. Took them off and had them bead blasted, which helped some, but the problem was still there.

I eventually replaced the rotors (sorry, went with Braking StremX) and the problem is gone. What can I do to keep keep this from coming back? I've seen some brake suppliers sell a rotor-hone device to resurface the rotors, but seems like a lot of trouble.

Thanks for your thoughts,

-Joe
A periodic sand blasting will help you with this. If you don;t want to go that route, than you can sand your rotors with 220-600 grit sand paper everytime you service your chain. Circle sand them with some wet sand paper, and wipe clean with a damp cloth. NO BRAKE CLEANER ON THE DISC OR PADS. Brake cleaner is only good for empty calipers and oil spots on your drive way.
 

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The former Stop Doc
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Discussion Starter #24
martinc said:
Very effective,give me your questions,but I"m hardly ever here...

:lol
I am doing this on my spare time. Time that I don't get paid for and happily do for free. It's time that I give to my fellow riders because I want to help. There is so much knowledge that I feel you all can benefit from. I travel a great deal for work, so if I don't get back to you right away, please forgive me for the delay. My intentions are good, and I am trying to answer all of your questions in a timely manner. If you can't wait, there is always a Galfer tech line that you can call. Its bellow my name under all my posts. You may not be able to talk to me, but someone can help you, wether it's Galfer products or not. My personal e-mail is there as well, you can always e-mail me. How many other direct manufacturers are willing to do that for you? Again, please bare with me in replying to your posts. Thank you all.
 

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The former Stop Doc
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Discussion Starter #25
ando11 said:
alright i have a conundrum for you. i did a ss line replacement last fall. brakes were shit before, not much better after. better initial bite, fade under constant and hard pressure.

when i bleed them i see a constant stream of air coming out of the hose, it never ends.

i bought speed bleeders and they did nothing, still the air problem.

some say the brakes should feel spongey as they do. some say they don't believe that i can't bleed it out. some say get it hot. some have said that i need to replace the crush washers (which i didn't do), some say they've used the crush washers several times.

now all i can say is that the system is open, and it is sucking air from somewhere. would it suck at the crush washers or is it the master cylinder?

What method of bleeding the system are you using? Sounds like either the hose is not tight enough around the bleeder, your pumping the master at the wrong time and sucking in air, or you do have a leak somewhere. To check for leaks, wipe around all your banjo fittings..... the, zip tie your lever back to your grip like you were braking really hard, leave it like that over night. in the morning, come back and check the banjo fittings and cruch washers, see fluis anywhere? if you do, then there is your leak, if not, you are bleeding the system wong.
 

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15,000 Feet and falling....
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How about a How-to on installing ss lines. I have had ss lines in my garage for over a month. I'm not really sure how to install them and what parts I need. (ie. speed bleeder)

I also dont know where to run the lines. Existing bracket or zip ties? I'm just really cautious when it comes to my brakes. I don't want to screw anything up.
 

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martinc said:




Watch out for my carbon/carbon brake kit conversion,I got it all here,to be installed shortly...if that interest you!
well about time! j.k:lol :bow
 

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blur1 said:
well about time! j.k:lol :bow
Geez,you tell me...

It takes 6 weeks to make those damn pads (not to get them,but really to MAKE them!)...fedex took 4 days,finding the place and talking to the right rep willing to take my order (in France,and those french are not too keen on dealing my private parties) was a full time job (almost).
 

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The former Stop Doc
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Discussion Starter #30
martinc said:
Watch out for my carbon/carbon brake kit conversion,I got it all here,to be installed shortly...if that interest you!

Please tell me you are not running that thing on the street. I am sure the fine people at CL told you that carbon on carbon requires some heat to work. Be careful my friend.

Seen many carbon/carbon set ups..... the motoGP guys all use mitsubishi's rotors, good stuff.
 

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15,000 Feet and falling....
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Frontside720 said:
How about a How-to on installing ss lines. I have had ss lines in my garage for over a month. I'm not really sure how to install them and what parts I need. (ie. speed bleeder)

I also dont know where to run the lines. Existing bracket or zip ties? I'm just really cautious when it comes to my brakes. I don't want to screw anything up.

:hellobye
 

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RCracer51 said:
Please tell me you are not running that thing on the street. I am sure the fine people at CL told you that carbon on carbon requires some heat to work. Be careful my friend.

Seen many carbon/carbon set ups..... the motoGP guys all use mitsubishi's rotors, good stuff.
I"m using it with a carefully choosen combo...since you are fairly new here and most probably not familiar with the piece of junk that my old 99 is,here are the braking components on it:

-320mm cast iron aeronal Beringer discs (1 side)
-6 pistons,6 pads per calipers Beringer calipers
-ISR GP master cylinder (adjustable everything)
-Godridge custom-made brake lines
-Spectro "600" brake oil (highest dry boiling point of them all)
-298mm carbon/carbon Carbone Lorraine disc (1 side)
-Carbone Lorraine SBK3 pads (cast iron side)
-Carbone Lorraine carbon/carbon composite pads (carbon side)
-Goodridge pressure sensitive brake light switch banjo bolts
-Titanium discs bolts

...all this crap mounted on an Ohlins R&T fork (Stadium modified) with a Marchesini magnesium wheel attached to my 230 rwhp nitrous injected pile of crap.

:lol
 

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WahWahWeeWAH
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frontside let me try and help.

first zip tie your brake lever closed.

drain the fluid from the bottom of the calipers at the bleeding nipples. (8mm open wrench)

unbolt the lines at the top (12mm socket). make sure you have covered the bike in rags because the brake fluid will eat through your paint.

once you remove the lines at the master cylinder pull them down through and disconnect.

old ones are now gone.

install new ones with longer ss line going to left side caliper. replace everything the way it was (i.e. crush washers) and tighten new lines in place.

as far as brackets, use what is existing there and just find a neat place, it doesn't matter too much as long as they don't rub on anything.

bleed the left caliper (oh make sure lid is off reservoir at master cylinder) and just keep pumping on the lever while keeping the reservoir constantly topped up. once you see fluid coming out the nipple with no air bubbles hold the lever in (or get your buddy to) and crank the nipple tight (that sounded dirty, sorry).

same for the right. then ziptie the ss lines to your front forks up and out of the way and you're done.

i've left some stuff out of this obviously but if you have any questions about the install, bleeding, or cleaning your pads etc. just post up.
 

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15,000 Feet and falling....
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That helps a bunch! Thanks.

So I run the lines down through the existing bracket (I think it's on the lower triple. And than I zip tie the lines to the forks? Where on the forks? Upper? Lower? Pics?
 

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WahWahWeeWAH
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sorry no pics.

but don't worry too much about it. i did it at the end of the installation. just ziptie somewhere around the forks up under the front cowl and that way you can't really see it.

i also kept the rubber bushings that held on the old lines and just cut them down (they are too big) and re installed around the ss lines in the same bracket. i have seen lots of ss lines where guys didn't bother and it doesn't make much of a difference.
 

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alright RCracer51, this one should be pretty elementary for you. Can you turn rotors on a bike, or do they just need to be replaced? A buddy of mine just bought a gixxer 600 and the numb nuts that had it before him let the inside rear pad wear down all the way and rode it with severe metal on metal for a while. :2bitchsla It's very groovy now (no, seriously, groovy).
 

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15,000 Feet and falling....
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Thanks for your help ando11

Can you tell me what a speedbleeder is.

What does it do? Do I need one? How do I use it?

Thanks
 

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WahWahWeeWAH
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i bought speed bleeders. don't think they are a necessity though.

all they do is replace the bleeding nipples on your calipers. inside them is a one way valve so when you bleed you just open it and don't have to worry about closing the brake lever before you retighten it.

maybe they are more suited to a single man job but if you have two guys it's all the same from what i can tell.
 

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15,000 Feet and falling....
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Thanks. I'm going to make sure I have someone giving me a hand.
 

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15,000 Feet and falling....
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One last thing. I guess it's the same instructions for the back brakes.
 
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