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I'm an Englishman in WI.
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Ok I've done the following:

Removed the calipers front the forks & clean with warm soapy water & toothbrush.

Check all pistons are free and happy to move. All good there.

Pads are work even, smooth and no sign of glazing. (They are brembo HH... and average lol).

I applied copper grease on the slide/pad locating pins. (not sure if that will last long or needed but I did it).

Re-fitted pads (in the same position they were in originally) and mounted calipers.

Flushed the entire system completely with ATE blue. Original fluid was clear as water and completely air free which makes me think it was done 4 days ago when they guy I bought it off had it inspected for road worthiness.

This bike doesn't have a bleed nipple at the MC so can do that.




Went for a ride.... Still the same so must be rotors or the wheels not true on the surface the rotors bolts to.

Good excuse for wheels and full floaters. :crash

You need an excuse :scared :scared
 

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1290!
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You need an excuse :scared :scared
Not really but need a good excuse for the Mrs :lol I was telling her about it and may have exaggerated slightly (implied it was dangerous) and she said "okay do what you need to do". Then I got guilty and told her it wasn't THAT bad.

:hammer: :shake:
 

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Ok I've done the following:

Removed the calipers front the forks & clean with warm soapy water & toothbrush.

Check all pistons are free and happy to move. All good there.

Pads are work even, smooth and no sign of glazing. (They are brembo HH... and average lol).

I applied copper grease on the slide/pad locating pins. (not sure if that will last long or needed but I did it).

Re-fitted pads (in the same position they were in originally) and mounted calipers.

Flushed the entire system completely with ATE blue. Original fluid was clear as water and completely air free which makes me think it was done 4 days ago when they guy I bought it off had it inspected for road worthiness.

This bike doesn't have a bleed nipple at the MC so can do that.




Went for a ride.... Still the same so must be rotors or the wheels not true on the surface the rotors bolts to.

Good excuse for wheels and full floaters. :crash
If I were you, I would try cleaning the rotors with some brake cleaner and #000 steel wool before replacing anything.

After that, bed-in the brake pads again. Make sure you are getting them up to the proper temp before you brake really hard and make sure they cool down some before coming to a complete stop.

Try that and see what you think.
 

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1290!
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If I were you, I would try cleaning the rotors with some brake cleaner and #000 steel wool before replacing anything.

After that, bed-in the brake pads again. Make sure you are getting them up to the proper temp before you brake really hard and make sure they cool down some before coming to a complete stop.

Try that and see what you think.
Would giving the rotors a light wet sand be worth while? I have everything from 200-2000 grit.

^^ ?? Steel wool better than a wet sand??

Not sure where to get 000 steel wool, I guess most hardware stores would carry it though.
 

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^^ ?? Steel wool better than a wet sand??

Not sure where to get 000 steel wool, I guess most hardware stores would carry it though.
Anyone ^^^ :dunno

I'm going to remove the wheel in 2 weeks win my boss is on holiday in the States and ill have his company car. We have a alloy rim repair place we use. They do re-rolls, paint, machining etc and see if they can check where the disc mounts it true and if not give it a light machine.

Will report any improvements.
 

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^^ ?? Steel wool better than a wet sand??

Not sure where to get 000 steel wool, I guess most hardware stores would carry it though.
Hardware stores should carry it.

I've always heard steel wool is better than sandpaper, but I think wet sanding would work too. I would try 300 - 400 grit.
 

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Hardware stores should carry it.

I've always heard steel wool is better than sandpaper, but I think wet sanding would work too. I would try 300 - 400 grit.
I'll try find steel wool first if not wet sand will have to do. :thumbup
 

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I have a 2013 r1 with 800 miles on it..i dont know what it is about the stock nisfin brakes but they suck!! I keep lockin the back wheel and go into a skid in somewhat emergencies...my brother has 2012 gsxr750 with stock brembo brakes with 600 miles on them..i did a test roughly 50-60mph to a dead stop..his brakes stop on the dime and mine turn into a fishtail..what brakes/rotor combination do you recommend for this to stop happening?
 

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Brake lighter on the rear or dont use it at all. You can remove pad surface area (less co tact on rotor) to the point it will almost be impossible to lock. Try learning to modulate it more or do like me.... Only use rear for low speed maneuvering.
 

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I have a 2013 r1 with 800 miles on it..i dont know what it is about the stock nisfin brakes but they suck!! I keep lockin the back wheel and go into a skid in somewhat emergencies...my brother has 2012 gsxr750 with stock brembo brakes with 600 miles on them..i did a test roughly 50-60mph to a dead stop..his brakes stop on the dime and mine turn into a fishtail..what brakes/rotor combination do you recommend for this to stop happening?
Clearly the answer is to buy some Brembo's :D

I'm pretty sure that both the R1 and GSX-R750 both use a Nissin rear caliper, in fact I would even bet that they are exactly the same.

You could always change the rear brake pad, modify the pad or rotor, or even introduce a little air into the rear brake line so you don't have as much stopping power, but that wouldn't be my recommendation.

How long have you been riding?
 

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Pulled the front wheel and removed discs today.

No run out on the discs. Spun them up good on the wheel balancer.



Wet sanded them with 400 grit wet & dry and removed all black shit (that pad meterial right?).



I also very, very lightly sanded the face of the disc that's booted to the wheel. Just a light scuff to make sure there's nothing causing this pulsing.

I've checked wheel bearings they are clean as a whistle, plenty of grease. Ill have to work out a way to check run out in front wheel as the shaft of the balancer won't fit through the hub of the wheel. Ill work something out.

Tomorrow I'll use brake cleaner and flush out any crap in the buttons... I can spin all of them by hand now so they aren't seized or anything.


Questions:

Ideal method of re-bedding pads? Slowly introduce heat without coming to full stop? How hot should I get them? When can I come to a full stop? I work in an industrial estate so I have big liking roads with next to no traffic after business hours so idea roads to get this done well first time around.

Should I 'lube' the rotor buttons with anything? WD-40? Or just clean out with brake cleaner and be done with it?



Phew! Slowly eliminating shit!
 

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Questions:

Ideal method of re-bedding pads? Slowly introduce heat without coming to full stop? How hot should I get them? When can I come to a full stop? I work in an industrial estate so I have big liking roads with next to no traffic after business hours so idea roads to get this done well first time around.

Should I 'lube' the rotor buttons with anything? WD-40? Or just clean out with brake cleaner and be done with it?



Phew! Slowly eliminating shit!
I would not lube the rotor buttons. Just clean them up.

To bed in your pads you can either take it easy on them for a few hundred miles or follow EBC's guidelines: http://ebcbrakes.com/articles/bedding-in-new-motorcycle-pads-and-rotors/
 
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