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Went out for a ride yesterday, about 85 degrees outside, a couple of times when taking off from traffic light the clutch made a nasty clunky noise, I figured its the shitty clutch in the 09+, so my questions is, how hard is it to install the Graves clutch kit and can I get it at a better price from somewhere other than directly from Graves, I have a few track days in a few weeks and I don't want this to be an issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I just placed my order from Graves today, I just wanted to know how hard the install is...
 

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My R1 eats my money
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Apart of the springs that are not necessary the other 3 parts are oem yamaha parts that you could buy from dealer. Generally the clutch mod is about making 09 clutch a 07-08 clutch.
 

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Still doesn't answer my question:rant how hard is it to install it:dunno it can't be that hard eh?
 

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My R6 is better than your R1!
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Its not difficult at all. Probably a 2-3 beer job bro. I did mine in about 1.5 hours with help from a buddy (while drinking beer and bull shitting)
Just makes sure to soak the new clutch plate in some oil before installing it. I put mine in a 1 gallon ziplock bag and used enough oil to cover the new plate and just let it sit while I took the bike apart.

If you have ANY mechanical abilities you'll be fine
 

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Its not difficult at all. Probably a 2-3 beer job bro. I did mine in about 1.5 hours with help from a buddy (while drinking beer and bull shitting)
Just makes sure to soak the new clutch plate in some oil before installing it. I put mine in a 1 gallon ziplock bag and used enough oil to cover the new plate and just let it sit while I took the bike apart.

If you have ANY mechanical abilities you'll be fine
:thumbup thanks.
 

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My R1 eats my money
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For me it's simple but if You must ask then I guess You're not very experienced in mechanics. I would say it's like changing air filter level of dificoulty. The trickiest part is to put the clutch cover back so the engaging leverage lines up. Basicly You remove the cover,then remove the bolts holding clutch springs, remove all plates. Then replace the 3 parts(they go between the plates) and put everything back. There was video on youtube from graves so search for it.
 

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For me it's simple but if You must ask then I guess You're not very experienced in mechanics. I would say it's like changing air filter level of dificoulty. The trickiest part is to put the clutch cover back so the engaging leverage lines up. Basicly You remove the cover,then remove the bolts holding clutch springs, remove all plates. Then replace the 3 parts(they go between the plates) and put everything back. There was video on youtube from graves so search for it.
Thanks, as far as being experienced in mechanics, well, I install every single part I get for my bikes, except for tires.
 

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My R1 eats my money
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So You'll be fine with this one too. Look at workshop manual for 07-08 R1 to avoid any mistakes. As I said before You will be assebling 07 clutch out of 09 with the parts You ordered.
 

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Squid
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My kit arrived today with YEC springs. Do I use all 6 springs?
 

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Im thinking of doing the same as I am picking up a new '12 soon, I assume I am on the right track looking at the attached parts catalog, items 12,13,14 from '07 R1 in place of item 6 from '12 R1 :fact
 

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Think ill try it with the std springs to start with, when I rode a demo a couple months back it was a bit juddery @ low rpms.. why would yamaha leave those parts out anyway?

You can see it looks almost exactly the same as the '07 pack with the omission of the said parts in the previous attached diagram.
 

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Hi guys,
I bought an 09 R1 a few months back and first time I launched the bike slightly hard it cut in and out and went stupid, basically I found the bike couldn't be launched hard full stop. Everyone I mentioned this to (including my yamaha dealer) gave me a stupid look. I've been taking bikes to the drag strip and track days for years, I thought I was going crazy till I found this.

So I installed my Graves kit on the weekend, along with the YEC springs. It's been raining alot here so I haven't got to properly test it but a quick trip around my neighbourhood makes me think that the the problem is still there. I managed to get it to judder (cut in and out) once and it actually felt like the clutch started to slip as I released the last bit of the clutch trying to do a hard launch.

Before I pull it back apart again, I want to check a couple of things with you guys.

I have a feeling the juddering is from the clutch not being lubricated enough. I read here that some people soaked the new fibre. I bushed the new fibre down with new engine oil (motul full synthetic), it was covered with oil when I installed it, but didn't leave it submerged in oil or anything. The original fibres were still pretty wet, but I'm thinking that maybe I should've soaked them aswell. I inspected the metal plates and they looked good, they didn't have hotspots or anything like the OPs.

The other issue that I haven't seen mentioned in any of these threads is that I had to massively change my cable adjustment to the maximum to make it fit. I honestly didn't expect to have to readjust the cable, which makes me wonder if I've installed the clutch arm in the correct position... If I had installed it incorrectly could that affect the engagement of the clutch (it's definitly not dragging with the clutch fully engaged) or will it only affect my cable adjustment?

PS: It's a euro model (Australia)

Thanks
Marty
 

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My R1 eats my money
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I also had the draging issue and had to readjust cable. I use OEM springs and released some tension by adding 1mm washers under bolt heads so they don't scew in all the way. Now it feels just as before mod but all issues fixed. My clutch plates were dry before too. I just submerged them in oil for 30 minutes.
 

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Is there anybody out there?
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Hi guys,
I bought an 09 R1 a few months back and first time I launched the bike slightly hard it cut in and out and went stupid, basically I found the bike couldn't be launched hard full stop. Everyone I mentioned this to (including my yamaha dealer) gave me a stupid look. I've been taking bikes to the drag strip and track days for years, I thought I was going crazy till I found this.

So I installed my Graves kit on the weekend, along with the YEC springs. It's been raining alot here so I haven't got to properly test it but a quick trip around my neighbourhood makes me think that the the problem is still there. I managed to get it to judder (cut in and out) once and it actually felt like the clutch started to slip as I released the last bit of the clutch trying to do a hard launch.

Before I pull it back apart again, I want to check a couple of things with you guys.

I have a feeling the juddering is from the clutch not being lubricated enough. I read here that some people soaked the new fibre. I bushed the new fibre down with new engine oil (motul full synthetic), it was covered with oil when I installed it, but didn't leave it submerged in oil or anything. The original fibres were still pretty wet, but I'm thinking that maybe I should've soaked them aswell. I inspected the metal plates and they looked good, they didn't have hotspots or anything like the OPs.

The other issue that I haven't seen mentioned in any of these threads is that I had to massively change my cable adjustment to the maximum to make it fit. I honestly didn't expect to have to readjust the cable, which makes me wonder if I've installed the clutch arm in the correct position... If I had installed it incorrectly could that affect the engagement of the clutch (it's definitly not dragging with the clutch fully engaged) or will it only affect my cable adjustment?

PS: It's a euro model (Australia)

Thanks
Marty
There's an arrow on the clutch cover and a dot on the push lever. They should be lined up right at the point the clutch disengages. Remove the cable and test it. If it's not right, you need to pull the cover and make a small lever adjustment. You can also pull the arm itself and make the adjustment but bottom line is the dot and the arrow need to be aligned at the disengagement point. Also, recommended procedure is to soak the friction plates, not just brush them with oil.

Mark
99 R1
 

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There's an arrow on the clutch cover and a dot on the push lever. They should be lined up right at the point the clutch disengages. Remove the cable and test it. If it's not right, you need to pull the cover and make a small lever adjustment. You can also pull the arm itself and make the adjustment but bottom line is the dot and the arrow need to be aligned at the disengagement point. Also, recommended procedure is to soak the friction plates, not just brush them with oil.

Mark
99 R1
Hi Mark, thanks for the info. I pulled my clutch back out yesterday and I was suprised to see that the top friction and plate had been overheated. The plate is black from heat and the friction is quite worn. I wouldn't say the friction is ruined but its definitly got signs of wear. The rest of the pack looks good. As I suspected the new replacement friction that came in the kit was totally dry (no signs of wear), despite me brushing it down with oil.

So all the frictions are now soaking in oil overnight, I'm going to reassemble it tonight and be sure to get the arrow lined up correctly. I'll steel wool the burnt plate and clean it up as best I can. I compared it to another plate and it doesn't appear to be warped (sits flat against the other one). I'm still a little worried about it though.

I'm not sure if the damage was from when the clutch was dragging in my driveway when I first started the bike up, or from after I adjusted the cable and rode it for 5 mins.

Another question, can I replace that first (top) worn friction with the original bottom one (the one that was replaced with the graves friction)? They look identical but I want to be sure about it.
 
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