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Ok this is officially a nightmare. I reinstalled the clutch after soaking it no problems but as for the clutch cover, I can't get it right.

Basically there's 2 teeth positions I can have it in and both are wrong. I've been marking the case to keep track of where its slotting in.

first - clutch is light and appears to not fully engage, this is how it was when I took it around the block the other day.

second position - clutch feels great (heavy as i'd expect with the YEC springs) but I can't get enough freeplay out of the cable. I've got the lever end and the gearbox end deadjusted 100% and there's no freeplay at all, it's like the cable needs to be longer. It's a fairly low mileage bike so the cable wouldn't be very stretched...

Any ideas? I could try going back to the standard springs?
 

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Ok this is officially a nightmare. I reinstalled the clutch after soaking it no problems but as for the clutch cover, I can't get it right.

Basically there's 2 teeth positions I can have it in and both are wrong. I've been marking the case to keep track of where its slotting in.

first - clutch is light and appears to not fully engage, this is how it was when I took it around the block the other day.

second position - clutch feels great (heavy as i'd expect with the YEC springs) but I can't get enough freeplay out of the cable. I've got the lever end and the gearbox end deadjusted 100% and there's no freeplay at all, it's like the cable needs to be longer. It's a fairly low mileage bike so the cable wouldn't be very stretched...

Any ideas? I could try going back to the standard springs?

The springs won't affect the free play, but the lever pull might be a stiffer. Maybe this will help: http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=334898&highlight=09+graves+clutch+install
 

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I'm pretty sure that I've got the clutch alignment right. I honestly think that I warped a clutch plate when I took it around the block that time (remember I said that i took it for a test ride, it felt wrong, pulled it apart and one plate was black from heat). It seriously seems fine but according to the manual the tolerances for warpage is 0.1mm so I'm going to order a new set of steels and try again.
 

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Life Beyond The Fast Lane!
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According to the manual, the first 2 steels that get removed can be varying thicknesses. They must go back in the exact location they came out of. On mine, only the most outer steel was thicker, #2 was the same thickness as the remaining steels. If you get it apart again check your steels with a caliper to make sure.
 

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I am also having the same problem. The lever either goes right to the bar or the cable is stretched all the way nd there is no adjustment. Am I doing something wrong?
 

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I tired again and everything worked fine untill I started the bike. I adjusted the cable started it nd put it in gear nd the clutch was already engaging so I tired to go back to neutral nd it went right to 2nd so I shut it off? Did I not adjust the cable correctly?
 

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I tired again and everything worked fine untill I started the bike. I adjusted the cable started it nd put it in gear nd the clutch was already engaging so I tired to go back to neutral nd it went right to 2nd so I shut it off? Did I not adjust the cable correctly?
When you installed the kit, you installed the graves fiber and then the washer and judder spring? Both the washer and judder spring should fit inside the diameter of the graves fiber (never making contact with the fiber surface). And you completely removed one of the original fibers and did not reinstall it, right?
 

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I tired again and everything worked fine untill I started the bike. I adjusted the cable started it nd put it in gear nd the clutch was already engaging so I tired to go back to neutral nd it went right to 2nd so I shut it off? Did I not adjust the cable correctly?
Yes this is exactly what happens to me. Everything adjusts and seems correct but then you start the bike and it'll move forward with the clutch pulled in 100%. And to answer got asphelt's question, in my case yes thats exactly how mine is, replaced last fiber and put in the new fiber and it all sits in there and takes up the same space as the original fiber did.
 

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When you installed the kit, you installed the graves fiber and then the washer and judder spring? Both the washer and judder spring should fit inside the diameter of the graves fiber (never making contact with the fiber surface). And you completely removed one of the original fibers and did not reinstall it, right?
I took all the stock fibers and steels out. Put in the washer than the judder spring followed by the new fiber and removed the last stock fiber. Put it all back together adjusted the cable than tested and it moves with the clutch lever pulled all the way in.
 

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I took all the stock fibers and steels out. Put in the washer than the judder spring followed by the new fiber and removed the last stock fiber. Put it all back together adjusted the cable than tested and it moves with the clutch lever pulled all the way in.
Yep exactly the same as me. I've taken my cover on and off about 40 times and i've been marking the cover to keep track of the locations etc. I was stuck between 2 positions as before but I managed to find a 3rd location thats I'm positive is correct - when the cable slack is adjusted the arrow lines up to the arm and the cable adjustment is roughly in the middle of the adjustment range, the lever pull is firm and direct as you'd expect after installing stiffer springs, but you start it up and it's not engaging properly. The only conclusion after reading around is that the stack height of the clutch pack is wrong. Slippers are extremely sensitive to the total stack height being correct. My understanding from the manual is that as the frictions wear down you may need to add a thicker steel plate to maintain the original stack height. I'm thinking in our cases maybe adding the brand new judder plate has made our packs slightly thicker or something?

I also think that I've possibly warped one of my steels (see my earlier posts) which could have increased the thickness, so I need to replace the steels anyway. I don't know if I'm going about this wrong, but I've ordered a brand new OEM 2009 clutch kit and a digital caliper guage. I'm going to attempt to start with the fresh clutch kit and the new friction and hope I can get the stack height spot on.

I'm just blown away that there's all these threads about this kit/mod with heaps of people saying 'yeh installed easy, works great etc', I've never seen a hint of anyone running into a problem with this other than the basic clutch cover alignment issue, which I'm sure i've got my head around now. My bike's been off the road for 2 weeks now, this is killing me!

I'll have to wait for this clutch kit to arrive before I bother with anything else, that is unless someone here has something different that we can try?

Edit: The only other piece of into I can give is that when I have the cover install in what I think to be the correct position, when I pull the clutch lever in, the rattle that you normally get doesn't seem to come in as early in the pull and the rattle seems a bit quieter which could possibly be a result of the judder spring I guess.
 

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"but you start it up and it's not engaging properly"

What do you mean by not engaging properly? An accurate description of the problem will help us analyze better. So I have a few questions.

1. Will the gearbox click in 1st with the clutch pulled in?
2. Is there grinding?
3. Quick test if you have a rear stand: put bike in 1st, with the clutch pulled in let the rear wheel spin up. Then press the rear brake, rpm should drop by 100-200 and then restore with in 2 seconds.

Answer all of these and describe to us exactly the functional problem you are having with the clutch. I hope we can help
 

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"but you start it up and it's not engaging properly"

What do you mean by not engaging properly? An accurate description of the problem will help us analyze better. So I have a few questions.

1. Will the gearbox click in 1st with the clutch pulled in?
2. Is there grinding?
3. Quick test if you have a rear stand: put bike in 1st, with the clutch pulled in let the rear wheel spin up. Then press the rear brake, rpm should drop by 100-200 and then restore with in 2 seconds.

Answer all of these and describe to us exactly the functional problem you are having with the clutch. I hope we can help
1. Yes, but I can't go back to nuetral without switching the bike off
2. No
3. On the stand there is no difference in RPM between clutch in and clutch out. Of course the rear wheel always spins a little with the clutch in or in neutral but you can usually stop the back wheel by lightly touching it with your foot etc but in this case not a chance. I could stop the wheel with the rear brake with the clutch in, but if I let the clutch out and pull it back in, it'll never slow down without rear brake again.
 

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This is exactly what I'm experiencing!!
 

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1. Yes, but I can't go back to nuetral without switching the bike off
2. No
3. On the stand there is no difference in RPM between clutch in and clutch out. Of course the rear wheel always spins a little with the clutch in or in neutral but you can usually stop the back wheel by lightly touching it with your foot etc but in this case not a chance. I could stop the wheel with the rear brake with the clutch in, but if I let the clutch out and pull it back in, it'll never slow down without rear brake again.
Yea that is normal, with the clutch kit you will need to wear in the new fiber. Let me rephrase that with another example. Stand the bike up on level ground and put your foot down, no brakes. Put it in gear while running and see if its pulling you forward. If it isn't, then its fine.

Also if you are able to stop the wheel from spinning with the brake while in gear, and the bike is idling fine, then you are confirming the example I gave you above.
 

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About finding neutral, stop the rear wheel from spinning while in 1st and try again. Your observations on the stand are not significant when it comes to bike operation. Again see if the bike is pulling you forward with the clutch in and in gear on level ground. If its pulling adjust clutch cable.
 

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Yea that is normal, with the clutch kit you will need to wear in the new fiber. Let me rephrase that with another example. Stand the bike up on level ground and put your foot down, no brakes. Put it in gear while running and see if its pulling you forward. If it isn't, then its fine.

Also if you are able to stop the wheel from spinning with the brake while in gear, and the bike is idling fine, then you are confirming the example I gave you above.
Yes it does pull me forward! I have to hold the bike back!
 

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Yes it does pull me forward! I have to hold the bike back!
Then adjust clutch cable tension. Here is a tip step by step.

1. Start with tightening the adjuster on the engine side (making cable tighter) Check service manual, free on here.

2. Then move to the perch on top. Begin with adjusting screw all the way in (cable loose).

3. Pull locking tab back and begin unscrewing (making cable tight). When you feel the tension change stop and roll back 2-4 clicks. (basically you are feeling when all of the slack is removed)

That will serve you as a good starting point. From there on its fine adjustment.
 

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I pulled my clutch back out again and found out one of the fibers is broken. I'll be ordering a new clutch today! It's gonna suck to be without a bike for awhile.
 

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I pulled my clutch back out again and found out one of the fibers is broken. I'll be ordering a new clutch today! It's gonna suck to be without a bike for awhile.
Can you figure out why it broke? Also make there are no chunks of fiber missing, otherwise oil passages can be blocked etc.
 
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