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I pulled my clutch back out again and found out one of the fibers is broken. I'll be ordering a new clutch today! It's gonna suck to be without a bike for awhile.
Which fiber? That's exactly what happened to me, the very top fiber got really worn (no chunks but the blocks of fiber look hurt (slipped), and the steel under that looks like its been hot, it's black around the edges. Thats why I ordered a new kit. That happened to me when I road tested it after fitting it all up the very first time.

Coon mine was moving in gear with the clutch in when on the ground aswell, I'll attempt the adjustment process you posted up today, i was just going for 10-15mm at the tip of the clutch lever as per the manual. Thanks for the info I really appreciate it. I'll have another play with it today with the info that you've given me.

Thanks
Marty
 

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Omfg the bike is back in action!! Thankyou so much to all who chipped in and helped me - gotaspelt and coon especially. So last time I left the bike it was moving in gear with the clutch in, so I set my adjustment as per coon's steps. Basically I must have misunderstood what the manual meant in its procedure, coons method is much more sound. I think I need to slacken the cable slightly but everything feels how I'd expect.

The clutch actually feels like a proper clutch now!! Suprisingly it's improved the terrible on and off throttle (in gear) characteristic when riding, I thought it was a fuelling issue. I haven't tried a full on drag launch yet, I'll slowly work up to it incase there's any issues. As I said one of my steels may be slightly warped but I've got a new kit on the way which I can use if I get any slip.


Blue09 - sounds like your in the exact spot as me in every way. If it was the first fiber you damaged, install the one that you removed, it's the same part no. Follow coons cable adjustment procedure and I reckon you'll be right. I know you got a new clutch coming aswell but your better off mucking around with the old stuff and if you still have problems fit the new stuff. I'm planning do to a fair bit of drag racing and I like my wheelies so I got no problems having a spare clutch kit sitting in the shed. I'll check back at this thread again to make sure you get through this aswell.

Thanks again guys!

Marty
 

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The fiber that's broke was in the middle. I was pulling everything back out and I heard something hit the ground. I looked down nd saw a piece of fiber. I'm glad it fell on the ground rather than in the bike. I don't know how it would have broken or how I didn't c it the first time. Good thing I decided to do this mod or I would have never known I had a broken fiber.
 

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Omfg the bike is back in action!! Thankyou so much to all who chipped in and helped me - gotaspelt and coon especially. So last time I left the bike it was moving in gear with the clutch in, so I set my adjustment as per coon's steps. Basically I must have misunderstood what the manual meant in its procedure, coons method is much more sound. I think I need to slacken the cable slightly but everything feels how I'd expect.

The clutch actually feels like a proper clutch now!! Suprisingly it's improved the terrible on and off throttle (in gear) characteristic when riding, I thought it was a fuelling issue. I haven't tried a full on drag launch yet, I'll slowly work up to it incase there's any issues. As I said one of my steels may be slightly warped but I've got a new kit on the way which I can use if I get any slip.


Blue09 - sounds like your in the exact spot as me in every way. If it was the first fiber you damaged, install the one that you removed, it's the same part no. Follow coons cable adjustment procedure and I reckon you'll be right. I know you got a new clutch coming aswell but your better off mucking around with the old stuff and if you still have problems fit the new stuff. I'm planning do to a fair bit of drag racing and I like my wheelies so I got no problems having a spare clutch kit sitting in the shed. I'll check back at this thread again to make sure you get through this aswell.

Thanks again guys!

Marty
CAREFULL to warped steel i own a yamaha dealer out here.. and i get these guys like this with a spun bearing like everyother week guys take them to the1/4 mile eat the clutch or warp the steels and that eats the clutch... and this bike throws the clutch shavings into the rods.. and boom you spin bearing likes crazy ive had about 7 of these very same condictions spin bearings... so the solution ihave found to this if the bike is raced 1/4 mile... every oil change bring down the oil pan you will find clutch shavings
 

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CAREFULL to warped steel i own a yamaha dealer out here.. and i get these guys like this with a spun bearing like everyother week guys take them to the1/4 mile eat the clutch or warp the steels and that eats the clutch... and this bike throws the clutch shavings into the rods.. and boom you spin bearing likes crazy ive had about 7 of these very same condictions spin bearings... so the solution ihave found to this if the bike is raced 1/4 mile... every oil change bring down the oil pan you will find clutch shavings
Thanks for the heads up mate. I'll install a new clutch in it, give it an oil change and forget about drag racing it. This bike has caused me enough headache as it is, I'd hate to blow the motor.
 

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Thanks for the heads up mate. I'll install a new clutch in it, give it an oil change and forget about drag racing it. This bike has caused me enough headache as it is, I'd hate to blow the motor.
just take the oil pan down you'll see what im talking about once you have it in your hand just put your fingers throu.. specialy if you've drag raced this thing
 

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just take the oil pan down you'll see what im talking about once you have it in your hand just put your fingers throu.. specialy if you've drag raced this thing
Nah i've never dragged it, but I was hoping to do it every now and then. The reason why I suspect I have a warped plate is I took it for a short test ride with the clutch arm in the wrong spot after installing the graves kit. On the test I tried to take off moderately hard and i heard slip so I pulled it back apart. The top plate was dark around the outer edge and the top fibre showed signs of slippage.
I replaced the fiber with the original bottom fibre that was replaced as part of the graves install since it's the same part number. So the fibers are all good but the top steel plate is discolored. It doesn't appear warped but the manual says the warpage tolerance is 0.1mm so it's possible that it's warped and I wouldn't know.

It all runs fine and hasn't given a hint of slipping since I installed the kit, I've done a fair few hard launches off the lights and it hasn't played up once. However I'm still worried about the top plate.

I have a brand new OEM clutch kit which I can install, but it seems like a waste since the clutch fibers and plates are as good as new (expect for that one plate). I'm toying with replacing just the one plate but the manual says to replace all the steels as a set. I could replace just the steels and keep the new fibers for later, or I could just replace everything in one go. I don't really want to risk my engine over a $200 clutch kit.

Can I pull the sump pan off without having to drop the exhaust?
 

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Nah i've never dragged it, but I was hoping to do it every now and then. The reason why I suspect I have a warped plate is I took it for a short test ride with the clutch arm in the wrong spot after installing the graves kit. On the test I tried to take off moderately hard and i heard slip so I pulled it back apart. The top plate was dark around the outer edge and the top fibre showed signs of slippage.
I replaced the fiber with the original bottom fibre that was replaced as part of the graves install since it's the same part number. So the fibers are all good but the top steel plate is discolored. It doesn't appear warped but the manual says the warpage tolerance is 0.1mm so it's possible that it's warped and I wouldn't know.

It all runs fine and hasn't given a hint of slipping since I installed the kit, I've done a fair few hard launches off the lights and it hasn't played up once. However I'm still worried about the top plate.

I have a brand new OEM clutch kit which I can install, but it seems like a waste since the clutch fibers and plates are as good as new (expect for that one plate). I'm toying with replacing just the one plate but the manual says to replace all the steels as a set. I could replace just the steels and keep the new fibers for later, or I could just replace everything in one go. I don't really want to risk my engine over a $200 clutch kit.

Can I pull the sump pan off without having to drop the exhaust?
hum i wouldnt know that answer i use a graves low mount exhaust and i have to take it off to chain the oil filter everytime since i race it.. e ery oil change i clean my oil pan and have never failed to find particles... funny thing i was riding my friends R1 to get the auto tunner for pcv to make a map and at 7k rpm plumm ""CLICK CLICK CLICK" then we find out he had gone thoru 3 clutches with out never cleaning out so it is a fact u race it you spin it.. check and see if you take apart the exhaust by the springs side if it's a full system...and how do you like the graves kit so far?? to me its the best 75 bucks ever i run mines in track from 5th gear drop it to second and it just solid no lock up what so ever and you can still wheelie sliping the clutch.. reason i say this is.. my first clutch upgrade was a EBC slipper clutch holy crap i burnt it in one night.. and so did my friend whos bike i spun a bearing on... also if you have an extra 100 bucks get the YEC CLUTCH SPRINGS you'll feel that clutch like a cadilac... smoothhhhhhhhhhhh as a mofo and with quick shifter you wont notice what so ever in the end GRAVES CLUTCH KIT RULES
 

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hum i wouldnt know that answer i use a graves low mount exhaust and i have to take it off to chain the oil filter everytime since i race it.. e ery oil change i clean my oil pan and have never failed to find particles... funny thing i was riding my friends R1 to get the auto tunner for pcv to make a map and at 7k rpm plumm ""CLICK CLICK CLICK" then we find out he had gone thoru 3 clutches with out never cleaning out so it is a fact u race it you spin it.. check and see if you take apart the exhaust by the springs side if it's a full system...and how do you like the graves kit so far?? to me its the best 75 bucks ever i run mines in track from 5th gear drop it to second and it just solid no lock up what so ever and you can still wheelie sliping the clutch.. reason i say this is.. my first clutch upgrade was a EBC slipper clutch holy crap i burnt it in one night.. and so did my friend whos bike i spun a bearing on... also if you have an extra 100 bucks get the YEC CLUTCH SPRINGS you'll feel that clutch like a cadilac... smoothhhhhhhhhhhh as a mofo and with quick shifter you wont notice what so ever in the end GRAVES CLUTCH KIT RULES
Yeh I'm loving the clutch kit so far, it actually feels like a proper clutch now! I did go with the YEC springs aswell. I've done a few hundred kilometers on it now with some moderatley hard launches. I'll drop the pan and do an oil change tomorrow just to be safe. It's running the stock headers and midpipe. You've got me scared now, last thing I want to do is lunch the motor.
 

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I got my new oem clutch in and everything has been working great.
 

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Yeh I'm loving the clutch kit so far, it actually feels like a proper clutch now! I did go with the YEC springs aswell. I've done a few hundred kilometers on it now with some moderatley hard launches. I'll drop the pan and do an oil change tomorrow just to be safe. It's running the stock headers and midpipe. You've got me scared now, last thing I want to do is lunch the motor.
how did it go bringing the oil pan down??? let me know when you get around to it
 

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Hi all

I've fitted my graves clutch kit and yec springs 2 weeks ago with the last friction place offset to the others as per the workshop manual and lined up the clutch pivot shaft with the little arrow at the bottom of the clutch cover.

With all cable slack removed( about 6 full anticlockwise turns of the perch adjuster) the clutch biting point is very close to the handle and there is a lot of travel before the clutch fully engages.

So basically I've got a very gradual releasing clutch allowing for very precise control, but I've got to really pull it in all the way if I want to put it in neutral/change gear.

The kit got rid of the lurching and grabbyness of the OEM clutch, but I preferred the late biting point. Will this get better over time as the jusdder spring loses firmness? How long have you folks had your in?
 

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If you have all the slack removed from the cable yet you have to pull the lever in all the way to disengage, it sounds like you might be one tooth off on your push lever. If you remove the clutch cable from the push lever, you should be able to turn the lever and right at the point you feel clutch resistance, the dot and arrow will line up. I'm betting your's doesn't. You can either pull the clutch cover and try a reinstall or pull the end of the push lever off, rotate it slightly and do the dot arrow resistance test again.

Mark
 

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I had same issue. I would go back to OEM springs. I even had to put washers under spring bolts heads to release some tension of springs. It settled after some time and then i removed te washers but still I use oem springs.
 

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If you have all the slack removed from the cable yet you have to pull the lever in all the way to disengage, it sounds like you might be one tooth off on your push lever. If you remove the clutch cable from the push lever, you should be able to turn the lever and right at the point you feel clutch resistance, the dot and arrow will line up. I'm betting your's doesn't. You can either pull the clutch cover and try a reinstall or pull the end of the push lever off, rotate it slightly and do the dot arrow resistance test again.

Mark
Thanks for your reply Mark. I've got it lined up as per this image when the cable is detached and I've pulled it forward by hand until resistance is felt.
 

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I had same issue. I would go back to OEM springs. I even had to put washers under spring bolts heads to release some tension of springs. It settled after some time and then i removed te washers but still I use oem springs.
I will give the OEM springs a try. Cheers buddy
 

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btw...any of you folks in the States get a recall letter from Yamaha?
I've received 2 in the last 3 months...1st issue was dodgy wiring loom that may cause engine not to return to idle if the throttle is closed.
Latest issue seems to be the headlight connector that may burn out so Yamaha replaces it for free. My bike's a EU model non of these affected my bike(yet)...I wish they'd rather sort the clutch issue free of charge.
 

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Just fitted up grade.
Lost any free play in cable.
Took circlip off clutch arm and took off arm adjusted that way.
If I leave slack in cable. won't go in gear take slack out no freeplay and clutch engages just off grip.
Dot and arrow are off a bit.
 

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btw...any of you folks in the States get a recall letter from Yamaha?
I've received 2 in the last 3 months...1st issue was dodgy wiring loom that may cause engine not to return to idle if the throttle is closed.
Latest issue seems to be the headlight connector that may burn out so Yamaha replaces it for free. My bike's a EU model non of these affected my bike(yet)...I wish they'd rather sort the clutch issue free of charge.
Yeah I agree. Yamaha should pick up the tab on this clutch fix.
 
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