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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I bought a 2018 R1 a few weeks ago. I noticed a heavier than usual smell coming from the exhaust before I bought it, but I chalked it up to me not knowing the usual exhaust smell of an R1. Plus I’m kinda used to it from being a mostly track day rider.
But anyway, I’m just curious if other people are having this same experience. After I’m done riding for not that long of a period of time(maybe 30-40 minutes, sometimes even less), all my clothes smell like exhaust/gas. It’s not a faint smell either, it’s a heavy loud smell. I have to change clothes after I ride.
The ECU was flashed by 2wheeldynoworks , so I’m wondering if this could be the issue. Maybe the tuning is just too rich? Has anyone else experienced this?
Also looking to see what kind of mileage people are getting from one tank. This might support my hypothesis as well. I’m only getting 100 miles per tank. I just feel like this thing is burning too much gas or something.

What say you? How do you/your clothes smell after a ride?

—Edit—
Just to clarify, I’m not concerned about gas mileage or anything of the sort. My bottom line point/question is if other people experience this, is it normal from this bike, and should I be concerned about a bad tune. I think the smell issue itself won’t be that much of a problem once it’s a track only bike here soon, but I rode it on the street a couple of times and want to get this sorted out if it is indeed an issue.
 

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When I was watching, my ‘20 wouldn’t get much more than 100 miles on a tank totally stock.
The heavy odor sounds weird. Maybe you could reach out to 2wdynoworks and ask about the tune-maybe it’s tuned for race fuel or something?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Wow. I never got notification that there was a reply on here.
Thanks for that. 100 miles per tank is probably terrible from a MPG perspective, but if it’s normal, it’s normal.
 

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Check the tip of the can or pull the spark plug. I ride mine balls out whenever it’s turned on and I’ve never smelled like gas. Sounds like rich tune to me
 

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I used to have that issue on my 06. When I finally got it dyno tuned properly, it was super rich in a few places. Tuned properly now and the exhaust smell on everything is 90% better
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Just to update. I finally got the flash looked at by the people that flashed it. They said nothing was wrong with it.
I wasn’t exactly satisfied with that answer so I took it to a good shop I have near me.
Long story short, it indeed was running very rich, and low on power, with a big dip in power at about 11k rpm.
Ended up putting on a Power Commander and tuning it on the dyno. Result was an increase of ~11 horsepower at peak.
I haven’t ridden it yet other than the 1.9 mile ride back to the house. It’s going to have to wait until I get on the track to really test it. It’s fully a track bike now so I can’t really ride around like that. The only thing is that even after only that short ride home, my hoodie did smell bad when I was done. I don’t get it.
 

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Just to update. I finally got the flash looked at by the people that flashed it. They said nothing was wrong with it.
I wasn’t exactly satisfied with that answer so I took it to a good shop I have near me.
Long story short, it indeed was running very rich, and low on power, with a big dip in power at about 11k rpm.
Ended up putting on a Power Commander and tuning it on the dyno. Result was an increase of ~11 horsepower at peak.
I haven’t ridden it yet other than the 1.9 mile ride back to the house. It’s going to have to wait until I get on the track to really test it. It’s fully a track bike now so I can’t really ride around like that. The only thing is that even after only that short ride home, my hoodie did smell bad when I was done. I don’t get it.
Glad to see the +11 HP👍 PC on top of a flash? Interesting. Still smells like fuel though? Does it run well at idle and throughout the rev range? When you do get to the track check out other bikes and compare. Please keep the post updated- thanks!
 

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Could still be burning the old, but if not and lingers after a few hundred or a good hammer session, doubt you can override the flash if the piggy did not help, but 11hp up top. Still linear to collect that 11hp every 1,000 rpm is a pony.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
See, I don't know what I'm talking about here, but I've been skeptical all along about these new-age sentiments regarding PC's, and them being basically obsolete and whatnot on newer bikes. I think this experience has confirmed my bias. I absolutely see the benefit in flashing ECU's to reduce temperatures when the fan kicks on, remove restrictions, modify engine braking, etc, but when it comes to air-fuel ratios, I just don't see anything better than these aftermarket piggy back systems, especially when we consider ease of use and how every bike really is unique to a certain extent. But I guess it would depend on who's working on the bike and what they have experience with. In my case, the shop I trust runs PC's day in and day out, they have an awesome DynoJet dyno that basically has its own auto-tune feature, can simulate different loads on the bike, etc etc.
You know what I mean? How is some random shop, on the other side of the country, going know what fueling to put in for your specific application. They just have sort of generic maps for "x" exhaust, or what have you.
Then we can talk about FTECU, and the stuff they sell. I never even heard of them until I bought this bike. I see all types of negative talk about them, especially their ABS delete. So I mean, I wasn't trying to use something I know nothing about and have no support for. PC has an auto-tune attachment thingy as well if I ever want to do that...
I think I'm just ranting now, so I'll shut up. Haha.
Like I said, I don't know what I'm talking about, but kinda feels to me like these mail-in flashing services should limit what they do and not touch fueling inside the ECU.

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Oh, and that's a good point I guess that Svennie makes. Hopefully maybe after I have a nice weekend at the track, it clears out some old crap. I only had a very short ride so that could be it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
How many sessions are y’all getting at the track before having to refuel?
Idk man. I went to track this weekend. I really wasn’t able to get the best use of my time because I kept having issue after issue. Nothing huge but stuff just used up my time.
I didn’t get to go around smelling R1 exhausts or anything, but the fuel consumption seems quite bad.
I was able to do only the three last sessions on Saturday, and I had to fill up the tank before the very last session. I didn’t think anything of it because I wasn’t starting from a full tank. So I filled up, did the last session and then the first two sessions on Sunday. On that second session, the low fuel light turned on and within two laps of it being on, the bike was sputtering like it was running out of gas.
Isn’t this extra weird? Or am I tripping. I mean I remember having a fuel light on for a whole session in the past.
So best case scenario, 20 minutes a session, I’m getting like 10-12 laps a session. 3 sessions on a full tank, that’s 30-36 laps. 2 miles a lap, that’s 60-72 miles on one tank of gas. And I’m probably on the low end of that because I don’t go out until 1-2 minutes or so after the very last call. So I don’t get the full 20 minute session. Doesn’t that seem excessively low on a full tank of gas? And so quickly after the gas light turning on , the bike wants to shut off?
Am I tripping?
 

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Rich running is best torque. Lean running is best economy. The deal is with FI, there is only one computer for pick a point on earth. There is a sensor that knows where it is elevation wise. There is a sensor that knows the ambient outside. Kind of see a flash is after more torque, which means more HP?

So economy will suffer street wise, and even worse when closed course requires more rpm, or you'll be in the way. But if yammie built a bike for both street and track, there is no nose smack of adding a little vinegar to the wash load. And there is the common complaint of flashing or fiddlefuking with a bike you can't even handle its potential stock... but the gotta have its, gotta jump in the lake for more HP you haven't touched when stock... beats the sniff out of me?

Just ragging on ya is all. So the flash fuckups can't get 11 more HP, but keep the sniff all over yourself, we have no clue what we're doing being in the flash business. Or, it's more like you said... each bike needs its own tune. But if left stock from pipe to ECU, if there is somehow to flash your nutsack with some balls to the wall... Now we're talkinn.' Like travel cross country stopping at the inn's for the next race?
 

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After re-flashing the ECU on my ’20, three or four 20-minute sessions is what I get before the fuel light comes on. This is much quicker vs. riding the stock set-up. Even still, I don’t think the latest gen R1’s get better than 30-32 mpg with the mellow-est of riders
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Svennie, the intention of the flash, in my view, is to indeed be able to use the bike to its full potential. Things like reducing engine braking, and reducing engine temps are all beneficial and doesn't necessarily add any more potential that came stock; it allows the rider to use the potential that the bike came with stock. (in my opinion)
I do agree that sometimes "fiddlefuking" with the bike is definitely not the move. But I still would've had someone mess with the ECU a bit just to reduce engine braking, if I had started with this bike from scratch.

Thanks for that info, Frank. So my experience may be normal after all. I guess I'm just used to the R6's I've had throughout the years. I'm going to have to carry another gas container to the track, or maybe I'll start siphoning from the van at some point. lol
If it's normal, its normal. Fine with me.

I had so many issues this weekend that I didn't even think about smelling the exhaust, so I can't say if it's resolved. I'll sign up for another track day soon and make it a point to focus on this sort of thing. I'm also going to keep a log with the actual mileage I'm getting at the track so I can have more specifics. I started to do that yesterday, but before I was able to ride after taking my initial data point, I noticed my radiator was leaking, so that was the end of the day for me.
 

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But I still would've had someone mess with the ECU a bit just to reduce engine braking, if I had started with this bike from scratch.
I'm wondering how much more lean do you need short of killing the engine for real engine breaking. I'm seeing lift numbers well under 19AFR. You sure could not time the kill to the lean and throttle up, no way. It's more about braking at the last wrinkle off your nuts... oops, you even broke too soon even on the brakes.

I keep thinking I have some old farthink, and think if riding a computer bike, I need to read an AFR meter and tune it myself, because stock sure looks as lean as lean as lift can be. No matter how much you think you need more e-brake, it still is feeding fuel just like a carb would, i.e., not shutting off the fuel even electrically, or hit the kill and see the difference.

I had so many issues this weekend that I didn't even think about smelling the exhaust, so I can't say if it's resolved.
Just bring one can and get it filled at the track. Run race gas that meets FI. Some race gas can eat rubber and expand gas line to the rubber used about in the carbs, etc. That, or buy sealed race gas in cans like VP. This way, you can see the tune out of the back of the exhaust tip.

I'd more soak the exhaust tip with vinegar and rub it down to the metal. Then clean as deep in as possible. Run a well prepped bike {no issues at the track} are addressed way before the next time out. Then a full day should show how well that engine burns at the tip.

Ever have the exhaust off, never fiddlefuked with the air induction, notice the one exhaust port was tan, the other black and sooty? Tan calls the tune at the tip. Gray... U Da Man!... or your tuner that flashed it.
 

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Should I solder it instead?
I say JB can't take the pressure and might pop off once pressure is at full tilt. The best is to solder. Probably can heat soak that tiny hole with a rod tip than a torch. I'm thinking the corner of a straightedge razor, gouge that deep enough to clean the coolant, plus a touch of flux heating that nick, then drop the solder onto the rod, drag the rod away and watch it puddle into the crack.
 
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