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My R1 is the original 1998 R1.
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35 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I've a 1998 R1 (red/white) with carb issues which I would like some advice and opinion about.
 

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My R1 is the original 1998 R1.
Joined
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35 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Greetings from the South of France.

I bought my R1 new in the UK in 1998 and still love its scary awesomeness. I passed my bike test in 1977 (Honda CD 175 twin) and after many bikes later, I got me a YZF R1 :) Not many miles rolled; only 12,000 since then due to work and family commitments, but the summer of 2019 brings me to a point in time when I can get to swing my leg over it and ride again!

In the years between 1998 and 2019 it has been started and ridden of course but often sits, sometimes for years at a time in a shed on its sidestand. The last dormant period, for probably 3 years or more. I didn't drain the tank. The rear seat has been nibbled by mice (actually, they gorged themselves) but that's another story.

So now, fast-forward to today....

The bike will start from cold with no problem and runs really well (as it should) until it warms up (2+mins) and then runs lumpy. It sounds and feels like a twin. It won't idle without cutting out.

This happened in circa 2010 and it went to the shop and they fixed the issue (what they did, I don't know exactly - nothing carb-spares-related was on their invoice ) The "same" issue returns today.

After 2-3 mins running, carbs 1 and 3 can be seen wet, then petrol seeps from the carb body of #1 and drips onto the road. Not too much, but enough to smell first and then see. The carb bodies of 2 and 4 appear dry.

(Carbs 1-4 are noted sitting astride, from left-to-right).

My question:

What kind of carb kit do I need to fix this? Just the bowl gasket and some carb cleaner, or the full-monty kit with the float needle-valve assembly and idle jet screw? I'm trying to do this myself to avoid a professional and costly invoice (I've had a quote from the same shop already).

From my layman's perspective, I think what is happening is that the float needle valve is stuck down allowing more fuel into the float bowl then is required?

If I turn the ignition on, there are no fuel leaks. The fuel pump can be heard ticking and then it stops. It's only when I run the engine, that it leaks fuel.

The non-metallic cone-shaped end of the needle that governs the float bowl fuel volume - does that wear out at 12,000 miles? Should it be replaced?

I've checked the tubing from the tank from the fuel pump to the carbs. No leaks. I've gently tapped the carb array with a rubber mallet but to no avail ;-|

I am trying to fix my bike on a budget. Long gone are the days when I can just take it to shop and say, "Fix-it please?".

Any and all opinions are welcome. If I don't reply promptly, it's 'cos I'm in another time-zone.

Thanks

Nick
 

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223 Posts
I've a 1998 R1 (red/white) with carb issues which I would like some advice and opinion about.
First drain fuel; open carb drain screws and drain fuel. pour one bottle of carb cleaner into fuel tank and wait for fuel to drain out thru drain screws and then close and let sit overnight and then drain.

Some carb systems require vacuum at the fuel shutoff to open it ; try using a hand vacuum pump to get carb cleaner flowing into the carbs.

Next day empty fuel system and add new high octane fuel and see what happens.
 

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My R1 is the original 1998 R1.
Joined
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35 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
First drain fuel; open carb drain screws and drain fuel. pour one bottle of carb cleaner into fuel tank and wait for fuel to drain out thru drain screws and then close and let sit overnight and then drain.

Some carb systems require vacuum at the fuel shutoff to open it ; try using a hand vacuum pump to get carb cleaner flowing into the carbs.

Next day empty fuel system and add new high octane fuel and see what happens.
I'll try that. Thanks.

Carb-cleaner must have a higher octane value / lower boiling point in order to clean gasoline residuals. I'll buy some regular carb-cleaner and give it a go....
 

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223 Posts
if engine runs you can try pouring large quantity of carb cleaner into fuel tank and then run engine; but that is the long way. take forever.


best way is to get carb cleaner into carbs and let soak for hours.


otherwise carb has to soak in a carb tank filled with powerful cleaner for about 20 minutes, depends on the chemical cleaner.


when motorcycle sits for more than three months the fuel should be drained to protect the carburetors OR you add fuel stabilizer to fuel.


modern gasoline has a shelf life of one year, but for a motorcycle you should never take any chances with old fuel. never
 

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My R1 is the original 1998 R1.
Joined
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35 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
if engine runs you can try pouring large quantity of carb cleaner into fuel tank and then run engine; but that is the long way. take forever.


best way is to get carb cleaner into carbs and let soak for hours.


otherwise carb has to soak in a carb tank filled with powerful cleaner for about 20 minutes, depends on the chemical cleaner.


when motorcycle sits for more than three months the fuel should be drained to protect the carburetors OR you add fuel stabilizer to fuel.


modern gasoline has a shelf life of one year, but for a motorcycle you should never take any chances with old fuel. never
Ok yes. The exhaust gases sniff was indicative of old fuel being burnt. I will drain the fuel, replace with new 98 (the best we have here) and give that a start. After which, will proceed to getting the rest done.

One day, we won't have to rely on petroleum spirit to fuel our bikes ! (I hope).
 

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Is there anybody out there?
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3,989 Posts
The bike is 20 years old. I'd replace the float bowl gaskets plus the little rubber tipped fuel inlet needle valves. Before replacing though, do a thorough cleaning. Here's a little write up I did on how to pull and clean the carbs:

Pull the tank, remove your choke cable, drain your float bowls, loosen the screws on the carb boots, remove entire carb bank and flip it upside down. Pull float bowls, remove your pilot and main jets and clean them with carb cleaner. I'd also squirt a bit of carb cleaner into the fuel inlet ports and also clean the little rubber stoppers. No reason to pull the throttle cables and make sure you put an old rag over the intake ports so you don't lose any screws in unwanted places. After cleaning your pilot jets, it's a good idea to blow compressed air through them to make sure they're open. You're probably going to have a bunch of green gunk everywhere. Do your best to clean it all out and squirt carb cleaner into every hole you can find. I'd pull the diaphragms before cleaning and check them for cracks. Replace as needed. More than likely, that will fix your idle problems.

Mark
 

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My R1 is the original 1998 R1.
Joined
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35 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
The bike is 20 years old. I'd replace the float bowl gaskets plus the little rubber tipped fuel inlet needle valves. Before replacing though, do a thorough cleaning. Here's a little write up I did on how to pull and clean the carbs:

Pull the tank, remove your choke cable, drain your float bowls, loosen the screws on the carb boots, remove entire carb bank and flip it upside down. Pull float bowls, remove your pilot and main jets and clean them with carb cleaner. I'd also squirt a bit of carb cleaner into the fuel inlet ports and also clean the little rubber stoppers. No reason to pull the throttle cables and make sure you put an old rag over the intake ports so you don't lose any screws in unwanted places. After cleaning your pilot jets, it's a good idea to blow compressed air through them to make sure they're open. You're probably going to have a bunch of green gunk everywhere. Do your best to clean it all out and squirt carb cleaner into every hole you can find. I'd pull the diaphragms before cleaning and check them for cracks. Replace as needed. More than likely, that will fix your idle problems.

Mark
Thanks for your tutorial. This is what I will have to do if a soak in liquid carb cleaner doesn't work. The carbs are drained and ready for that, but I rounded the hex in one of the carb drain screws (aarrgghh!) but mole-grips saved the day. I did note that the pointy end of all of them, and although they are made of some sort of brass alloy, appeared rusty or, "crusty", so that must be some of the crud that's in the bottom of the float bowls I guess. Also, for what they are, those diaphragms seem mighty expensive! I'm hoping that they are all ok!
 

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I just did the carbs on a 05 FZ1. It would start, but not idle. I bought a K&L carb kit and K&L jet cleaner. I did one carb at a time w/ out taking carb body’s apart. Blew out all the passages with carb cleaner and compressed air. If yours is leaking between carb body’s , buy the o rings from factory and replace all of them . I think there’s 8? This bike had gas sitting in it for 3 years. Runs like a champ now✊
 

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Thanks for your tutorial. This is what I will have to do if a soak in liquid carb cleaner doesn't work. The carbs are drained and ready for that, but I rounded the hex in one of the carb drain screws (aarrgghh!) but mole-grips saved the day. I did note that the pointy end of all of them, and although they are made of some sort of brass alloy, appeared rusty or, "crusty", so that must be some of the crud that's in the bottom of the float bowls I guess. Also, for what they are, those diaphragms seem mighty expensive! I'm hoping that they are all ok!
A little trick I learned is to use 3 ft long philips screw driver. You will be less likely to strip the head due to the long shaft of screw driver twisting first. Also a rap with a hammer will help getting them off as well.
Good luck
 

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My R1 is the original 1998 R1.
Joined
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35 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
best way is to get carb cleaner into carbs and let soak for hours.
Today, I removed the air box with the intention of removing the carb array. Those 3mm hex screws that secure the carb array onto the intake manifold are almost inaccessible! How can I get my banana-sized fingers in there with an Allen key to turn all four!? No way.

My best bet at the moment is to get carb cleaner down into the fuel inlet pipe, fill-up the carbs in situ and let them sit and soak for a while.

So, can you advise any carb cleaner for that specific job that won't melt the non-metal internals? I've had a nightmare of a job trying to find something here (France) that can do that. Most are sprays which won't help me much without the carb being dismantled.

Thanks, Nick :icon_frown:

The Yamalube carb cleaner seems highly rated, (they don't stock it at my local dealership) but I don't think that'll help me in my situation. Or maybe it will ?
 

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My R1 is the original 1998 R1.
Joined
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35 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
I've ordered two different cans of carb spray cleaner today from Amazo* France. I couldn't get any Yamalube carburetor cleaner from the EU. Only the US seems to stock that product (see Amazo*.com) and, a 32oz tin ( nearly 1 kilo inc. packaging ) would cost me about $65 including shipping. To answer my previous Q about, is Yamalube carb cleaner being OK to fill up the carbs and let them soak, that seems to be ok to do according to buyer reviews on A*. com.

I know a full float-bowl removal and cleanup is the best (right) thing to do, and it's not that I don't want to, I just can't get at the carb array screws to undo / loosen them - 1 screw perhaps / maybe, but the rest?

I'll let you guys know how it went next w/e. Hopefully, firing on all four, and idling nicely ! :smile2:
 

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My R1 is the original 1998 R1.
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35 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Thanks to tory ii, Sharksawyer, and Jimmy boy for helping me with my carb issue. Much appreciated. Thank you for your input, sincerely.

The spray-can carb cleaner worked perfectly. No misfire or hesitation.

I am well pleased ! :)

I'm so glad to get my bike back that I bought 21 years ago. Just for general info, it cost me £9460 OTR in London, UK, April 1998. I have no idea what the bike's value is now.
 

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its a little late but i thought i would throw this in for future use. carb cleaner naturally swells the rings and gaskets so usually soaking all the needles, seats, jets, o-rings will clean and swell it all and it goes back together like a gem with some light wiping with a pacer towel and some compressed air, a small bit of safety wire to run through really clogged jets. for motorcycles that the kits or seals aren't easily accessible i have always done that and i can't remember a time where it didn't work for me.nim glad you got this sorted though.
 

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Is there anybody out there?
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3,989 Posts
Thanks to tory ii, Sharksawyer, and Jimmy boy for helping me with my carb issue. Much appreciated. Thank you for your input, sincerely.

The spray-can carb cleaner worked perfectly. No misfire or hesitation.

I am well pleased ! :)

I'm so glad to get my bike back that I bought 21 years ago. Just for general info, it cost me £9460 OTR in London, UK, April 1998. I have no idea what the bike's value is now.
Glad to help and happy you got your baby back!

Mark
 

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223 Posts
Continue the cleaning by using only high octane fuel (premium) and for every tank of fuel add the correct proportion of carb cleaner (or top cylinder treatment).
 
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