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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So I need some help before I spend a fortune. I see this is a re occurring issue for these bikes so I'm hoping that someone has a answer for me. PLEASE

I have a 2004 R1 and starting last summer, it acted up. By acting up I mean that it runs perfectly normal for maybe 10 mins (or until it gets hot) then it starts sputtering. after the rpms start acting weird, as I slow down to a stop and pull in the clutch, she stalls out. I start it back up and you can hear the idle is not right. then as I go to start again I have to give it extra throttle to get it going then it feels like its running off of 3 cylinders and BOGS soooo bad.

So over the winter I did the following... Changed the spark plugs (old ones looks fine), took out old gas and put non-ethanol in. Also I went thru and made sure the wires were still plugged in, nothing seemed lose to my knowledge.
Also just yesterday I did a load test on my battery, was fine. and I tested the charge. Came out 12.42 vdc with key off and 14.32 vdc at 5k rpms. I was told to check that because it sounds like a rectifier. I was also told not to count the rectifier out due to the good vdc readings because the bike wasn't acting up when I tested the levels. So is it still the Rectifier or whats some ideas???
 

· Rust Cohle
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You may want to check your ignition coils and throttle position sensor(s). These are common parts that can make a bike intermittently run poorly for no obvious reason, such as a check engine light never being illuminated. Also consider checking your bike's diagnostic mode to see if something obvious may be malfunctioning and check the calibration of the TPS.

I had a TPS issue on my 2005 R6 that caused it to stall out at the exact same intersection every time I rode it, but the CEL never came on and there were no codes
stored in the diagnostic mode. I was fortunate in that all it took to fix it was removing the TPS and cleaning its insides with contact cleaner to fix the stalling issue. Other bikes may require replacement

It's not a very accurate test for the rectifier, but if its warming up as the bike itself warms up, I wouldn't put it at the top of my list as a possible culprit. Also, are you using any kind of tuner like a Power Commander? Sometimes a bad connection or poor flash can cause the bike to run badly. Good luck with your bike!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks, I'll look into it. I don't know how to check the "bike's diagnostic mode" or the Calibration of the TPS... it had a power commander on it but I took it off due to it starting to go bad (I think). all the bike has that might need a power commander is a gutted exhaust (previous owner), so it may run alittle rich but not much. It's just weird that it runs perfectly fine if its cold. But like I said, almost after 10 mins every time, it starts doing this and isn't rideable much. I stay near my house as I test it.
 

· Rust Cohle
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Yamahas have a sequence of hitting the the RESET/SELECT buttons on the display to access the diagnostic mode. If you do find any codes stored, I believe they can be reset by flipping the kill switch off and on. Accessing diagnostic mode is similar to how you set the clock or change the shift light settings. A Google search should pull up how to access it easily. If you can download the Yamaha service manual for your bike, it will also explain what each code means in further detail. Also, you don't have to worry about changing a setting that could negatively affect the way your bike runs, so if you think you've made a mistake, turn the ignition key off and on and everything will return to normal.

If the Power Commander the bike had used a tap into the TPS wiring harness, it may have damaged the wire at some point, so double check that nothing is obviously wrong there.

My R6 was behaved exactly the same. It would stall at the exact same spot after warming up during the route that I would take and become very difficult to restart. You could almost set your watch to it because the stalling was so predictable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
would it only have a code if the check engine light is on? I will try it over the weekend, I'm just curious. But once again thank you for your advice so far!
 

· Rust Cohle
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Not necessarily, when I was trying to troubleshoot my R6, the diagnostics mode had actually recorded an issue with the IAT sensor at some point but it never threw a check engine light. After I reset the code, it never recorded another error again. If you do find any error codes, consider writing them down, resetting them, and riding the bike around somewhere very safe and free of heavy traffic to see if the codes reoccur.

The Yamaha diagnostic mode & check engine light isn't the most robust scan tool in the world and if there is an issue with the TPS or ignition coils, it may not flag an error code. It's just meant to be a basic aid than tell you exactly what is wrong with your bike. If you can find the service manual online, it should show you how to test each electrical component mentioned earlier using a multi-meter. That's the best way of knowing for sure if any part is malfunctioning or not.

One last thing is, do you pressure wash your bike regularly or does it get exposed to rain often? It's not uncommon for moisture to build up around the coil(s) in the spark plug cavity, damaging the coils and causing the bike to run poorly. Just food for thought. Also, if your bike still has its original exhaust valve installed to the exhaust pipe, you may want to check and make sure it hasn't seized. Apparently it's a common problem with a lot of sport bikes.

At this point, I can't really offer any more advice that may be helpful, but I hope you can find your issue!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So I checked the diagram numbers and there were 2 errors. I cleared the errors then rode the bike until it started messing up again. Checked the codes and there was none that got tripped. So no errors getting throw in the computer. I also rode it again until it started stalling and messing up then did the voltage test for vdc's to see if it's the rectifier. The test came back lower than average so idk if it's that bad or not. VDC was 12.33 with key off and 13.9 at 5k rpms. What does that mean??
 
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